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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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mA 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



J^PR 12 .^^"^ 






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Entered according to Act of Congi'ess in the year eighteen hundred and 
eighty-four, 

By mills & COMPANY, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



MILLS & COMPANY, 

STEREOTYPEKS AND PRINTERS, 

DES MOINES, IOWA. 



PREFACE. 



In this volume are included, besides many others, 
the receipts used in the Department of Domestic 
Economy of the Iowa State College of Agriculture 
and Mechanic Arts. 

These, and all others, have been gathered with 
great care from many sources. Having had excep- 
tional advantages for the study of cookery, and access 
to the most complete library on food and kindred 
subjects in the west, I feel sure, in presenting this 
book to the public, I am offering a work of practical 
value. Like all similar books, it is, in great measure, 
a compilation. I do not claim to be original, I have 
simply gleaned the best from the highest authorities. 

Each receipt has been either personally tested, or 
is vouched for by competent housewives among my 
friends. Wherever possible I have given credit for 
such receipts as I have copied. Many, however, have 
been gathered from papers, or sent to me by friends 
through a term of years, and their origin is lost. 
While studying in Germany and England, I collected 
much that was valuable, all of which I have proved 
by actual trial to be good. I am under obligations 
also, to that excellent English paper "The Queen," 



4 PREFACE. 

for a number of capital receipts. Many of these I 

have altered to suit our markets and taste, making 

the original instructions simply a basis for final 

results. 

I desire to call especial attention to the chapters 

that close this book by Prof. Ma comber, Prof. Pope, 

and Dr. Fairchild. These are all valuable and come 

from gentlemen, each of whom is recognized author 

ity on the topic of which he treats. 

Mary B. Welch. 
.Ames J Iowa. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

MOB. 

The Coming Cook 9 



CHAPTER IT. 
Breakfast, Dinner, and Tea 13 

CHAPTER III. 
Terms Used in Cooking 23 

CHAPTER IV. 
Utensils 37 

CHAPTER V. 
Marketing 51 

CHAPTER VI. 
Bread and Breakfast Cakes 61 

CHAPTER VII. 
Cake 75 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Pies and Puddings 101 

CHAPTER IX. 

Sweet Sauces 129 

6 



6 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER X. 

PAOS. 

Custards, Creams, and Soufflees 131 

CHAPTER XL 
Ices 143 

CHAPTER XIL 
Soups, Meats, Poultry and Game 147 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Savory Sauces 187 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Fish and Oysters 193 

CHAPTER XV. 
Vegetables 199 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Salads 213 

CHAPTER XVII. 
Pickles 219 

CHAPTER XVTII. 
Eggs, Omelettes, and Cheese Fondus 223 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Fruits and Jellies 229 

CHAPTER XX. 
Beverages 237 



CONTENTS. 7 

CHAPTER XXL 

PAQE. 

Miscellaneous , 243 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Food 247 

CHAPTER XXIII. 
Food Adulterations 259 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
Antidotes to Poisons 263 

CHAPTER XXV. 
Dangerous Oils 267 



OHAPTEB I. 




THE COMING COOK. 

CT GENUINE civilization and good cooking are more closely 
?Jt^ related than is usually appreciated. Savages live on food 
either wholly or partially raw and have not the faintest 
conception of the routine of meals, variety of diet, and 
combination of flavors that are to us absolute necessities. They 
gorge themselves when food is plentiful, and starve when it is 
scarce. They eat the coarsest and grossest substances without 
subjecting them to the refining effects of fire, or the transform- 
ing influence of condiments, herbs, or extracts. They know 
nothing of the subtle combinations by which the palate may be 
tickled and the digestive powers stimulated to easy and effective 
work. 

To their habits of eating may be ascribed, in great measure, 
their imperfect physical development, their mental dullness, and 
their moral obtuseness. Improve their diet and you have taken 
the first step towards a better life. Philanthropists and mission- 
aries of all kinds are beginning to understand that no appeal can 
be effectually made to the higher nature until the stomach has 
first been revived, and that all reforms in the individual must 
proceed from this center to the head and heart. 

Coarse food, even though perfectly digested, produces coarse 
natures. Indigestible food is even worse in its effect, for it re- 
sults in actual disease, and disease of such a character as to 
influence in marked degree the whole mental outlook. A sour 
stomach is apt to produce a sour temper. Melancholy, suspi- 
cion, envy, false and distorted views of men and things, follow 
dyspepsia as the shadow follows substance. 

The effect of diet in stimulating evil passions is well known. 
Its eftect also in disease is acknowledged and respected. The 

9 



10 THE COMING COOK. 

wise physician supplements his medicines by carefully selected 
and skillfully prepared food. More than this, he is often able 
to cure without the medicine by judicious advice to his patient 
as to the kind, quality, and amount of nourishment he shall 
take. The success of many sanitariums, where attention to diet 
is a special feature in the treatment of disease, proves this be- 
yond dispute. No one will deny the further proposition that 
the sensualist, the drunkard, the debauchee in general, is the 
victim of over-indulgence in eating and drinking, and that his 
vice cannot be cured and self-control re-established without a 
minute and persistent attention to the needs of the stomach. 
The man or woman whose vile business it is to pander to the 
animal passions and to corrupt our youth, seem to appreciate 
the mental and moral effect of eating and drinking, much better, 
alas! than the cook, the mother, or the minister. Many a boy 
or girl has been ruined for life after the preliminary work had 
been accomplished by a feast, set out with the express design on 
the part of the provider to inflame the passions, dull the finer 
sensibilities, and fire the blood. 

The influence of what we eat and drink on the growth and 
development of the body is so patent that little need be said 
about it. I have dwelt particularly on its mental and moral 
effect, since these are less visible to the careless observer. Com- 
parative values are not sufiiciently considered, even by those who 
urge most strenuousl}^ the advancement of the human race. 
Those who decry the claims of the body, and at the same time 
attempt to exalt the power of mental and spiritual growth, for- 
get that the body is the medium through which mind acts, and 
that one cannot be abused or depressed without very sensibly 
aftecting the other. The only possible way to have a "sound 
mind" is first to secure a "sound body." 

The cook exercises, then, a most important function. Her 
duties may well command the respect of her employers. Her 
wages should be in some just proportion to the value of her 
work, and her social position should be graded according to her 
fitness for her heavy responsibilities. The teacher looks down 
with something akin to contempt upon the cook, who should 
rather be regarded as her natural ally. The child, who goes 
daily to school with a stomach full of badly selected and worse 



THE COMING COOK. II 

cooked food tugging at every vital force, is ill prepared for the 
reception of mental aliment, and the teacher sufiering from the 
same cause is absolutely unfit to administer it acceptably. Both 
ire at the mercy of the one whose power they least suspect. If 
the cook but knew what influence she might exert, and if the 
world valued her services properly, what a revolution would be 
wrought in human affairs. 

When the tired man can say to his cook: " I am weary — re- 
fresh me with that which will be easy to digest, which will 
stimulate and energize without reaction," and forthwith the 
cook does as she is bid; when the poet or the philosopher, the 
artist or the artisan, the teacher or the taught, each can ask and 
receive confidently the exact food needed, then will human 
effort reach its highest achievement. Then, too, will cookery 
take its proper rank, and the cook receive her just reward. 

In order to prepare the cook for such service, what are some 
of the things she must know? Unless the whole routine of her 
work be hap-hazard and unreliable she should have intelligent 
and well defined opinions concerning the relation of food to 
physical growth, so that she can prepare that which is best ad- 
ajjted to the needs of the entire household, fit to build up 
symmetrical and healthy bodies for the children, as well as to 
furnish to the mature workers in the family the necessary nutri- 
ment to keep good the balance between supply and demand. 
And not only should these bodies be robust and sound, but fit 
temples also for the indwelling of a pure spirit, a calm and 
courageous temper, and a keen, searching intellect. 

All this implies a practical application of the principles taught 
in physiology and chemistry, as well as a knowledge of the kind 
and quality of nutriment stored in plants, flesh, fish, and fowl. 
Earth, air, and sea, furnish her with the materials which she 
must understand how to prepare, so they can be easily trans- 
formed into bone, blood, and muscle, in such proportions that 
each shall have its normal growth. She must be both too wise 
and too humane to concoct any dish or brew any drink that will 
induce dyspepsia, headache, or dullness. 

The kitchen will be a laboratory wherein zeal and knowledge 
join hands in the experiments continually being made. It will 
also be a school in which enthusiastic pupils are willing to work 



12 THE COMING COOK. 

hard as a previous condition to future skill. Fertility of resource, 
a quick and ingenious wit, knowledge of details, a complete un- 
derstanding of the materials the whole world furnishes for culi- 
nary manipulation, these are but a few of the qualifications that 
must fit a man or woman to be the coming cook. 



OHAPTEE II. 




BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 

^HESE may be called our National rotation of meals. 
Though in the larger cities the routine becomes, break- 
fast, luncheon, dinner, still by far the greater proportion 
of housekeepers in the United States adhere to the first 
programme. In country towns and villages, in farm house, and 
rural hamlet, on prairie and hillside, in the sunny South and fair 
Northwest, farmer, merchant, lawyer, mechanic, or minister, 
gathers his family about him three times a day, at breakfast, 
dinner, and tea. Some general directions as to the manner in 
which these may be best served should, therefore, precede the 
receipts which will form the bulk of this book. While it is im- 
possible to give advice which can be accurately followed under 
all circumstances, it is never waste of time to urge system and 
order in the setting out and dishing up of any meal. No matter 
how plain the repast, nor how humble the home, a certain order 
in these can be profitably observed. 

The table should be set according to a fixed method and the 
dishes follow each other in regular succession. While, in the 
parlor, a certain elegant and apparently careless arrangement is 
allowable, on the dining table straight lines, right angles, and a 
strict attention to geometric figures should be the rule. We 
must trust to a pleasing variety in the forms of dishes, to spark- 
ling glass, highly polished silver, spotless linen, and the charming 
effect produced by contrasting yet harmonious colors, for attrac- 
tive and artistic efiect. Breakfast and tea are comparatively 
simple meals, and sometimes housekeepers who pride themselves 
on elegant and stately dinners are careless and indifferent regard- 
ing them. There are many theories afloat as to the proper kind 
and amount of food for breakfast. One insists that a cup of 

13 



14 BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 

coffee and a roll are all that any man needs to fit him for the work 
of the day, and substantiates his position by citing the Germans 
who, he says, are a long-lived, wise, and happy people, and require 
nothing more for their first meal. He forgets to state, however, 
that a heartier breakfast follows a little later in the morning, and 
that any German would think himself greatly abused if obliged 
to do a full morning's work on the energy supplied by a cup of 
coffee and a roll. Another urges that oatmeal should form the 
basis of every breakfast, and quotes the robust and canny Scot 
as a striking example of the ability of this grain to supply work- 
ing power. The third pleads that our climate is stimulating, 
our people filled with a feverish unrest that impels to an abnor- 
mal and exhausting activity, and that we need, therefore, a great 
variety of hearty and stimulating food, to fit us for the hurry 
and worry of the morning's scramble, 

I suspect there is a grain of wisdom in each of these state- 
ments. The German does thrive on his "early morsel," followed 
soon by a heartier supply, and either by reason of, or in spite of, 
his six meals a day has reached a high position among nations 
mentally and physically. The Scot does relish his oatmeal, and 
adding to this the needed amount of stronger aliment, has be- 
come a shining example of sturdy independence in both mind 
and body. And we do differ from either, both in climatic condi- 
tions, nervous susceptibility, and eager energy, and our bill of 
fare must not, therefore, be too closely modeled after theirs. We 
have three meals a day to the German's six and the Scotchman's 
four. We breakfast, as a rule, earlier than either, and work more 
hours before the next meal is served. We must, therefore, have 
a larger amount and greater variety to keep the stomach (para- 
doxically speaking) in good heart until the noon meal. 

Then again no meal should be prepared with reference simply 
to one or two members of the family circle. The young, the 
middle-aged, the very old, each should be considered and a sufl&- 
cient variety presented to meet the necessities of all. It is too 
much the custom to offer at the table food fit only for active and 
robust men, and neglect altogether to provide that suited to the 
digestive capacity of young children and delicate women, or the 
feeble, assimilative powers of the aged. This thoughtlessness 
may be remedied without great trouble and with the most bene- 



BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 15 

ficial results. There can be oatmeal or similar food, with an 
abundance of good milk and cream, as well as brown bread and 
white, for both young and old. Juicy, tender beefsteak, a nour- 
ishing stew, or delicate, well cooked chops are easily digested and 
yield much nourishment, while eggs are, as a rule, fitted to satisfy 
and benefit alike the child, the father, and the father's father. 
Fresh ripe fruit is, in general, a healthful food for breakfast, 
and may be partaken of by all with advantage, unless some pe- 
culiar condition or special disease make it literally " forbidden." 
One need not despair, therefore, at being told to suit her meals 
to the dietetic wants of the whole family. While thus urging a 
suitable variety, I by no means advocate a heavy or elaborate 
breakfast. It is true that the average American who goes forth 
to his daily work at half past seven o'clock or earlier, and cannot 
expect his next meal before twelve or one, must have something 
substantial and nourishing, but this does not imply four or five 
courses, or a succession of meats followed by hot cakes or 
doughnuts. 

A breakfast may be plain, wholesome, and nutritious, and at 
the same time offer a sufficient number of viands to tempt the 
appetite and warm the blood of all who partake of it. Variety 
may be farther secured by taking pains that no breakfast shall, 
in the same week at least, repeat itself. Zest for food, which is 
renewed by novelty and dulled by sameness, is an important 
factor in digestion. Hence, I imagine, the long lists of different 
methods of preparing the same food, as well as the illimitable 
variety of materials offered us by our bountiful friend, generous 
Dame Nature. The American breakfast on many a farm, the 
year round, is fat pork, fried potatoes, and, perhaps, pancakes 
occasionally, as an extra relish, and in many a town and village, 
fried beef — emphatically not beefsteak — fried potatoes, and as 
before hot cakes and molasses, when great luxury is desired. I 
have personal knowledge of a family, a rich and generous 
family, too, whose morning meal in winter invariably consists of 
sausage and buckwheat cakes. There is do excuse for such will- 
ful and reckless neglect of every law of digestion. We live in a 
land of plenty, and if we suffer from any such intolerable same- 
ness in diet, it is because we are too lazy, too indifferent, or too 
ignorant to secure anything better. If we can get no meat but 



16 BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 

beef, there are many ways of preparing it so as to secure variety. 
Codfish, mackerel, white fish, and herrings can usually be had at 
the smallest grocery. Oatmeal, cracked wheat, graham flour, 
Indian meal, and eggs are almost always cheap and abundant. 
She who wills may, by the exercise of a little thought and in- 
genuity, secure almost anywhere in this country an appetizing 
variety for every meal. 

And after the bill of fare for the breakfast has been decided 
on, some attention must be given to the manner of presenting it 
to the family. How shall the table be set and in what order 
shall the dishes be served? For this and for every other meal, 
the first thing to be considered is the table linen. One of the 
great luxuries within the reach of wealth is the possibility of 
unlimited clean tablecloths and napkins. No array of delicate 
food can be either pleasing to the eye or tempting to the palate, 
when placed against a background of dingy and rumpled linen. 
Ordinary housekeepers, with ordinary incomes, must exercise 
care and ingenuity in order to secure, without increasing the 
weekly washing to a burdensome degree, tablecloths and napkins 
for every meal that are not unpleasant to refined eyes. There are 
several expedients that will help at least to this much to be wished 
for result. To begin with, great care must be taken in clearing 
the table. Oftentimes table linen is more soiled by the careless- 
ness of servants in this operation than by actual use during the 
meal. Glasses of water and cups of coffee are needlessly spilled, 
gravy and morsels of food are dripped from plate to plate, or 
dirty knives and forks are laid fall length on the table cloth, 
leaving their grimy impress to offend the taste of the family at 
the next meal. Then, after the table is cleared, the cloth should 
never be shaken, but neatly brushed, then folded in the exact 
lines the iron left when it came fresh from the laundr}^, and 
carefully laid away, under a weight if possible, until needed 
again. Wrinkles and the general mussy appearance of a cloth 
shaken first and then carelessly folded, are thus avoided. A 
heavy felt or Canton flannel cover under the linen much im- 
proves its appearance, and at the same time, lessens in a marked 
degree the noise of the clatter of dishes as they are moved about, 
which is always an unpleasant accompaniment to a meal. It 
saves also the surface of the dining-room table from spot or 



BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 17 

blemish, and tlie texture o£ the outer cover likewise from hard 
wear. It is altogether a great improvement, and any housewife 
who tries it once will never again be satisfied to set her table the 
old way. Heavy, doublefaced white Canton flannel, wide enough 
for the purpose, can be bought for from seventy-five cents to a 
dollar a yard. If ordinary caution is exercised not to soil the 
outer cloth unnecessarily, such an inner covering does not need 
frequent washing. A coarse white blanket will serve this pur- 
pose also, if one cannot conveniently buy the other. 

Great pains must be taken to lay the cloth perfectly straight 
and exactly in the middle of the table. It is exceedingly un- 
pleasant to see it awry in any way, lopped down this side or that, 
or the center fold straggling uncertainly at any sort of a diag- 
onal across the table. The coffee or tea service should stand 
before the "mistress of the manse," the cups and saucers be 
ranged symmetrically about her plate — and cold bread, butter, 
salt, cream, etc., should be in their respective places. If there be 
oatmeal or any similar dish for breakfast, that should be served 
first, and while it is being^ disposed of, the beefsteak or omelette, 
the smoking coffee, and all the other hot dishes, except cakes, 
fried mush, or anything of that sort to be eaten with sweets, can 
be brought in from the kitchen. The oatmeal is then removed 
and the substantial dishes placed before the head of the house to 
be dished out by him on well warmed plates and handed by the 
waiter to each person at the table. The coffee is served by "my 
lady" and the butter, bread, etc., offered on a small tray carried 
by the waiter for this purpose. The attendant should watch the 
progress of the meal, and if cakes are to follow, as soon as a part 
of the family are ready she should notify the cook that she may 
commence to bake them, quietly remove the plates, substitute 
clean ones, also warmed, and bring the cakes from the kitchen. 
It is not necessary to wait for every one to finish the first course 
before beginning to offer the second. If many servants are kept, 
of course there can be no difficulty in serving every meal in the 
most approved style. Even with two, the above will be found 
the easiest, simplest, and pleasantest way of managing breakfast. 
If fruit, oatmeal, meat, potatoes, and hot cakes are all put on 
the table at the same time, the effect is confused and the very 
abundance palls the appetite. No one can partake of all simul- 



18 BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 

taneously, and the beefsteak and coffee are cold by the time the 
oatmeal is eaten, and the cakes have long ceased to be hot before 
it is possible to serve them. On the contrary, by following the 
first plan, the cook has a few moments for the finishing touches 
needed by the hot dishes, can make an omelette so it can be 
served steaming from the pan, and after these have gone in, can 
have time to get everything ready to bake her cakes. 

Where a single servant is maid of all work it is somewhat 
more difficult, but a little ingenuity will still compass it. She 
can put the oatmeal on the table and summon the family to 
breakfast. While they are eating this first course, she can dish 
up the remainder of the breakfast and bring it in, then quietly 
remove the first plates and return to the kitchen to see to her 
cakes. The butter, bread, etc., must be passed in this case by 
different members of the family, and if each one knows what is 
expected and the table is arranged with reference to this, it can be 
done quickly, without noise and without confusion. Where no 
help is kept, the younger members of the family should, as soon 
as possible, be trained to wait, each in turn, on the table. Of 
course, the whole method of living must, under these circum- 
stances, be simplified and made to conform to the strength of the 
inmates and the character of the surroundings of the home. But 
in the plainest farm house, or the poorest mechanic's dwelling, 
system, a well settled routine of work, and a definite notion of 
the fitness of things, are necessary factors in good housekeeping. 
Table manners and habits of eating, as well as the quality of 
the food and its proper preparation, exercise great influence on 
both character and physique, and every mother should realize the 
fact, that a well ordered meal, served as perfectly as her circum7 
stances will allow, makes a part of that subtle influence which 
is silently and powerfully evolving the future man or woman 
from the crude boy or girl under her care. 

The inequality of incomes and the wide diversity of circum- 
stances surrounding different housekeepers, make it absolutely 
impossible to lay down fixed and invariable rules for all. 1 am 
anxious to be useful to the largest possible number, and shall 
therefore remember in all my suggestions and all my receipts, 
that the greater proportion of the housewives this book will 
probably reach are not likely to be the wives of millionares, nor 



BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 19 

the mistresses of homes in which expense is of no account. She 
who can live elegantly on a small income, whose refined taste, 
cultivated intellect, and hearty interest in home duties, take the 
place in great measure of the extra dollars of her rich neighbor, 
achieves a triumph well worth time and thought. During the 
season of flowers there is no housekeeper so busy that she cannot, 
if she will, have her table beautified by their presence. Not a 
month from April to November on our western prairies that 
does not spontaneously furnish some bloom and fragrance for 
household adornment. From the hepatica in early spring to the 
golden rod and aster in the fall there is a constant, ever varying 
succession of leaf and blossom. Through all gradations of col- 
oring from tender blues and faintest pinks to flaming scarlets, 
rich purples, and glowing yellows, Nature tempts every taste, 
and yields without money and without price bounteous largesse 
to all her friends. Can we not learn of her to make the common 
things of our every day life and work attractive by uniting with 
them some form of beauty. 

Dinner is the important meal of the day. If it come at noon 
it should be well studied, as we depend on the warmth, nutrition, 
and stimulus it furnishes to repair the waste caused by the 
morning's work, to fortify the system to withstand the fatigue 
of the remainder of the day, and to furnish sufficient strength to 
carry us through, with the aid of a light tea, to the next morn- 
ing. If it come in the after part of the day still more does it 
need careful thought. The stomach is likely to be weakened 
from long fasting, and the whole physical tone depressed. One 
is not fit to digest hearty food at once, yet he is so hungry he 
will be tempted to eat hastily and ravenously whatever is set be- 
fore him. All these thing's should be considered by the intelli- 
gent housewife. 

The best stomachic to prepare for the easy digestion of a hearty 
dinner is soup, not a rich, heavy, and greasy liquid, but one of 
the light, clear soups, which are simply strong extracts of meat, 
entirely free from grease, clear and sparkling, and almost as 
stimulating as wine. The sense of warmth and comfort produced 
by a few tablespoonf uls of such a broth, testifies to its efficacy 
as a preparatory dish. It dulls the first keen edge of appetite, 
without in the least degree producing a feeling of satiety. It 



20 BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 

gives tone to the stomach, and is, moreover, almost at once 
assimilated, refreshing the whole inner man. He can then pro- 
ceed deliberately to discuss the remainder of his dinner, and eat- 
ing slowly, will not only enjoy it but digest it without trouble 
in due time. Liebig says: "The extractive substances of flesh, 
when added to food do duty as true nutritive materials," and Dr. 
Letheby adds: "As they are at once absorbed into the circulation 
requiring no effort of digestion, they not only create force, but 
they also economize it. They are, therefore, among the most 
valuable constituents of food." The hostess who offers her 
guests at a German a cup of strong broth early in the evening, 
may do it in blind obedience to what she regards as an arbitrary 
fashion, but the custom had its origin in a genuine dietetic phi- 
losophy. Grreat physical exertions are expected of her guests, 
and the cup of meat extract "not only creates force but also 
enconomizes it." 

There are many ways of serving dinner. No doubt the style of 
setting the dinner table with the dessert alone, and adorning it 
with a profusion of flowers, makes it a thing of beauty. No 
doubt also it relieves the host and hostess of all care, to have the 
substantial part of the dinner presented by servants entirely from 
the sideboard, course after course, coming regularly, quietly, and 
systematically as if by magic; but no doubt again, this requires 
trained servants and plenty of them, and is practically impos- 
sible to the ordinary housekeeper. A compromise can be effected 
however if you have a quick, bright maid who can be trained to 
her work. 

The table may be set partly after the old style and partly after 
the more modern or so called Russian way. Some low ornamen_ 
tal dish may occupy the center, and on either side, arranged with 
due regard to harmony of color and general effect, may be placed 
fruit, flowers, and any light, sweet dishes intended for dessert, 
such as custards, creams, or blanc manges, nuts, raisins, etc., etc. 
These should extend in a straight line through the middle of the 
table and compose its main ornamentation. Button hole bouquets, 
napkins handsomely marked with colored monograms, etched 
figures or flowers, or suggestive mottos, each enfolding a thick 
slice of bread, low glass forms for flowers here and there, goblets 
or tumblers of thin glass, some one, or a variety of the number- 



BREAKFAST, DINNER, TEA. 21 

less fanciful devices for supplying salt to each plate, these break 
up any tendency to too great formality in the general arrange- 
ment. The large, clumsy, and conspicuous caster is now banished 
from the dinner table. All condiments, except salt, are served 
from the sideboard as they are required. It is also the present 
custom, and saves time and confusion, to have as many knives, 
forks, and spoons by the sides of each plate as will be needed in 
the course of the meal. 

When dinner is first announced, the soup and soup-plates are 
found before the hostess, and the former is dished out by her, a 
small ladlef ul in each soup-plate, and carried by a waiter on a 
tray and handed over the left shoulder to each person at the 
table. No one is expected to ask for soup a second time, and the 
turreen is now quietly removed. As soon as anyone has evi- 
dently got through with his soup-plate, it is at once replaced by 
a fresh plate without waiting for all to finish. If fish is to come 
after the soup, that is then placed before the host to be carved 
by him, or being previously cut in suitable portions is handed to 
each person so he may select his own morsel. Plain Irish pota- 
toes are often passed with the fish. The waiter removes these 
plates as before, and then the joint is placed before the host who 
carves it and sends to each his favorite slice. The vegetables, 
side dishes, etc., are then offered by the waiter, each person help- 
ing himself as he desires. The last course before dessert is fre- 
quently a salad with thin slices of bread and butter. The clear- 
ing of the table is a very simple matter if this method is followed. 
There are only the plates and the roast, or the fowls, birds, etc. 
that may have followed the roast, to be removed, then the table 
is brushed, or the crumbs removed with a silver scraper. The 
hostess serves the dessert, and lastly small cups of caft noir or 
coffee without cream, and sometimes bits of bread and butter 
and cheese, conclude the meal. I shall say nothing about wines 
in this connection, since I never offer them at my own table and 
have not made a study of them for my friends. 

Or the good, hospitable, old fashioned, usual custom may be 
followed, and indeed, must be in many homes where but one ser- 
vant is kept, of having first the soup and then the heavy course 
all placed at once on the table to be served by the heads of the 
family, and last the dessert. Even then a regular routine should 



22 BREAKFAST, DINNEE, TEA. 

be established aud followed every day. There will still be room 
for flowers to brighten the table, and the girl can be trained to 
remove each course, to brush the table, and bring in the dessert 
in an orderly and quiet manner. She should also be taught to 
make herself tidy by the addition of a white apron to her usual 
dress, and any other device that will not take too much time. 
The younger members of a family can soon learn to be of great 
assistance in the progress of any meal, if some specific thing is 
regularly trusted to their care, and they will early come to enjoy 
and be proud of the want of friction, and the perfect smoothness 
characteristic of all the routine of a well ordered table. 

And now comes tea, the pleasant evening meal, around which, 
the day's work being done, the family gather to relate the day's 
experience, forget its worries, and plan the evening's pleasure. 
To me it is the most attractive meal of the three. The unrest 
and hurry of the day are over. The children are home from school, 
the father free from care, and the dear mother ready at last for 
rest and comfort. It is a light repast, and yet the fragrant and 
steaming tea-pot is even more indicative of good cheer than all 
the formal array of smoking viands at the midday meal. 

The tea table should by its brightness and beauty prepare all 
who approach it for cheerfulness and good fellowship. The 
silver and glass should reflect serene faces, the bread or biscuit 
be as light as the heart that beats in each bosom, and the fruit 
and cake fit companions for these. Then will quick and perfect 
digestion prepare for " balmy sleep," and balmy sleep ensure an 
awakening like that of the happy, healthy child, who springs 
from his bed, bright as a sunbeam, with eyes clear as a dew-drop, 
eager for the day's fun, refreshed in every member. 



CHAPTER III. 




TERMS USED IN COOKING. 

BAKING. 

^HIS is the process by which we as a people cook our so 
called roasts. It is simply cooking by confined hot 
air. Baked meat is inferior to roasted because the 
ventilation of the oven can never be so perfect as that 
of the spit, and the dry heat evaporates juices so rapidly as to 
make the joint comparatively hard and tasteless. Any meat 
baked should therefore be frequently basted. 

Every dripping pan should be furnished with a rack so that 
the meat need not come directly in contact with the bottom of 
the pan, and also that the heated air may be able to surround the 
meat on all sides. 

BOILIITG. 

The manner of this culinary process depends on the effect to 
be produced. If it is desired to prepare a stew, combining the 
good features of both soup and meat, then cold water is used at 
first as the medium for cooking. Salt meats, like ham and corn- 
beef, must also be put on the fire in cold water. A " pot roast " 
on the contrary is partly covered at once with boiling water, 
turned often, and boiled rapidly for the first few moments, the 
temperature then reduced and the boiling continued more mod- 
erately. When fish are boiled they must first be carefully tied 
in cloth so they will not break. Boiling pieces of meat, birds, 
etc., should also be securely tied in shape before boiling. 

If puddings are to be boiled in a bag, it must first ha wrung 
out of hot water and then thickly floured ; if in a mold, it should 
be well buttered. Never fill the bag or mold full but leave room 
for the contents to swell. The water must be kept boiling con- 

23 



24 TERMS USED IN COOKING. 

stantly the required time or the pudding will surely be ruined. 
As the water evaporates, the kettle must be replenished with 
boiling water which should be kept ready for this purpose. 

Steamhstg is a modification of boiling whereby the article 
cooked is boiled in the heated vapor of water. Puddings, dump- 
lings, and many vegetables are better cooked in this way thau 
boiled, if care be taken to keep the water under the steamer boil- 
ing all the time. It takes longer to cook by this method than 
by boiling. 

Stewikg is another modification of boiling. Here, too, time 
is a matter of great importance. The fire should be even and 
regular, and the thing to be stewed put into cold water and kept 
carefully skimmed. When the water has once boiled up, the 
kettle should be moved to the back of the stove, and the broth 
allowed just to bubble slowly and evenly around the edges of the 
pot. After the liquor has been skimmed until it is clear, cover 
closely, and do not remove the cover except when absolutely 
necessary. 

From "Wholesome Fare" a standard English book on cookery, 
I extract the following: "Stewing, another modification of boil- 
ing, is especially open to the observation "the more haste, the 
worse speed." It is an eminently economical branch of cooking. 
By it, coarse joints, old poultry, hard portions of animals, feet, 
gizzards, tendons, and even bones, are made to supply savory and 
wholesome nutriment. Time and slow cooking are the secret of 
success; if a thing cannot be stewed tender in one doing, it 
must be done in two or three, supplying as required, from time 
to time, the moisture absorbed and evaporated." And Dr. 
Letheby, an eminent authority on food, says: "Stewing is a deli- 
cate and safe process when the object is to retain the nutriment 
of meat, and to render it succulent and tender. All kinds of 
tough and strong-flavored meat may therefore be cooked with 
great advantage in this manner." And Dr. Smith, whose valua- 
ble work on foods is so well known, adds: "A slow fire, or water 
at a temperature of 160 degrees, will suffice to expand the fibres, 
and in some degree to rupture them, whilst it separates these and 
other structures and renders the whole mass more fitted for mas- 
tication and digestion." 



TERMS USED IN COOKING. 25 

BONING. 

With a sharp knife, patience, and plenty of time, this is not 
so difficult an operation as is often thought. In boning a fowl 
the first thing to do is to lay open the back by one straight cut 
its entire length. Now cut towards the wings and disjoint them 
at the body. Then cut the flesh from the carcass to the thigh bones 
and disjoint these also at the body. Then cut the flesh entirely 
from the remainder of the skeleton, taking great pains not to cut 
through the skin where it joins the ridge of the breast bone. If 
the shape of the bird is to be preserved it is best not to remove 
the wing and leg bones, though this may be done if preferred. 
It is more common now, however, not to undertake to preserve 
the shape, and the flesh of the wings and legs is cut away to the 
last joint, which is severed by the cleaver. The wings and legs 
are then turned in, the fowl laid skin down on the table, stuffed 
and rolled in compact form, sewed or tied tightly in a stout cloth 
bandage and then boiled. 

The bones from a shoulder of lamb, or the ribs from a rib 
roast can likewise easily be removed with a little practice. 

BOUQUET-GAENI. 

A houquet-garni or more commonly a bouquet of herbs, is a 
bunch of herbs, tied together and used to flavor soups, stews, 
sauces, etc. It is usually composed of a few sprigs of thyme, 
parsley and a bay leaf. A little celery, sweet marjoram, or in- 
deed any of the sweet herbs may be added according to the effect 
desired. I append a few extracts in regard to herbs from Miss 
Corson's "Cooking-School Text Book." "A bouquet of herbs is 
made by tying together a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, and two 
bay-leaves. The bay-leaves, which have the flavor of laurel, can 
be bought at any German grocery or drug store, enough to last 
for a long time, for five cents. The best herbs are sage, thyme, 
sweet marjoram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley, bay-leaves, 
celery seed and onions. If the seed of ^ny of the seven first 
mentioned is planted in little boxes on the window sill, or in a 
sunny spot in the yard, enough can be raised for general use. 
Gather and dry them as follows: parsley and tarragon should be 
dried in June and July, just before flowering; mint in June and 



26 TERMS USED IN COOKING. 

July; thyme, marjoram, and savory in July and August; basil 
and sage in August and September; all herbs should be gathered 
in the sunshine, and dried by artificial heat; their flavor is best 
preserved by keeping them in air-tight cans, or in tightly corked 
glass bottles." 

"Deled Celery and Parsley, — In using celery, wash the 
leaves, stalks, roots and trimmings, and put them in a cool oven 
to dry thoroughly; then grate the root, and rub the leaves and 
stalks through a seive, and put all into a tightly corked bottle, 
or tin can with close cover; this makes a most delicious season- 
ing for soups, stews, and stuffing. In using j)arsley, save every 
bit of leaf, stalk, or root, and treat them in the same way as the 
celery. Remember, in using parsley, that the root has even a 
stronger flavor than the leaves, and do not waste a bit," 

"Tarragon Vinegar. — Use a bunch of fresh tarragon in sum- 
mer, or the dried herb in winter; put it in an earthen bowl, and 
pour on it one pint of scalding hot vinegar; cover it and let it 
stand until the next day; then strain it and put it into a bottle 
tightly corked. Either put more hot vinegar on the tarragon, or 
dry it, and save it until wanted to make more; a gallon or more 
can be made from one bunch; only every time it is used it must 
stand a day longer." 

"Celery Salt. — Mix celery root, which has been dried and 
grated as above, with one-foarth of its quantity of salt; it makes 
a nice seasoning, and keeps a long time." 

"Spice Salt. — This can be made nicely by drying, powdering, 
and mixing by repeated sif tings, the following ingredients: one- 
quarter of an ounce each of powdered thyme, bay-leaf and 
pepper; one-eighth of an ounce eacli of marjoram and cayenne 
pepper; one-half of an ounce each of powdered clove and nut- 
meg; to every four ounces of this powder add one ounce of salt, 
and keep the mixture in an air-tight vessel. One ounce of it 
added to three pounds of stuffing, or force meat of any kind, 
makes a delicious seasoning." 

BRAIZma. 

Braizing is a method of cooking by the application of heat 
both above and below the thing to be cooked. It is accom- 
plished by means of a kettle having a deep lid which can be filled 



TEEMS USED IN COOKING. 



27 




with lighted charcoal, or live embers or coals of any sort. The 
cover must fit perfectly tight, and the 
kettle be just large enough to contain 
the joint, bird, or other meat to be 
cooked. This must be partially sur- 
rounded with stock for basting, and the 
herbs, spices, or vegetables intended for 
seasoning. Braizing is an operation re- 
quiring great care, as the heat should be evenly applied, the pot 
kept as much as possible closely covered, and the basting very 
frequent. If the heat below is too strong, a plate is sometimes 
put in the bottom of the pot, and the meat placed on that. An 
oiled paper, cut just to fit, is placed between the meat and the 
lid, if that becomes too hot. This, of course must be lifted every 
time any basting is done. 



BRAIZING KETTLK. 



BROILING. 

This method of cooking is, as a rule, applied only to small 
things, such as steaks, chops, birds, pan fish, etc. It is a delicate 
operation and needs con- 
stant care. The stew-kettle, 
the dripping-pan, and the ^^sv^J^^ 
stock-pot may, at times, be ^^^lls*^ 
left to take care of them- ^^ ^ 
selves, but the cook must 
stand over her gridiron until 
the process is complete. It 
needs a clear, hot fire, the 
best for the purpose being American broiler. 

thoroughly ignited charcoal. The gridiron should be hot, and 
the bars greased before the steak or chop is placed on it. There 
have been great improvements made of late in the manufacture 
of gridirons. Instead of the plain iron bars formerly in use 
we may purchase now broilers of almost any shape to suit our 
convenience. The circular gridiron made to fit any range and 
tightly covered like the American, illustrated above, is exceed- 
ingly convenient, especially over wood coals. The Henis is also 
a superior gridiron, the best indeed I have ever tried. There is 
less smoke, and less dripping, and, being light, it is easily turned. 




28 



TERMS USED IN COOKING. 



I can heartily recommend it. The broiler should be turned fre- 
quently, so as to cook the steak evenly, and to prevent also tho 





rs 



THE HKNIS BROILER. 

escape of the juices. If obliged to turn the meat, instead of the 
gridiron, care must be exercised not to stick the fork 
in the muscle, as in that case a hole is made for the 
escape of the juices. It must be turned either with 
tongs which come for the purpose, or the fork may be 
inserted in the fat, or put under the steak and used as a > 
lever to turn it over. Fish or birds that are split, should ] 
be broiled inside first. The best gridiron for fish is the 
wire broiler. They can be purchased 
of almost any size and it is convenient 
to have a set of them. Thin cuts of 
meat will bear a much hotter fire than 
thick ones. In the latter case sear the 
outside quickly and then remove to a tongs. 
greater distance from the coals, or moderate 
the fire, to give time for slower cooking, be- 
wiRB BROILER, iug surc to tum frequently in either case. If 
the fire flames up too much, or is too hot, sprinkle salt over it. 

FRYING. 

This is simply boiling in hot fat. Nothing is fried in the 
proper meaning of that word unless immersed in the hot oil. 
We have no English word that accurately expresses the idea 
conveyed to the majority of minds by the monosyllable " fry." 
The French word saute is used by all cooks for this purpose. 
This process will be fully described a little later. 

The causes of failure in frying are thus described in "Whole- 
some Fare": 



TERMS USED IN COOKING. 29 

''1. An insufficient quantity of fat in the pan. 

"2. Putting in things to fry before the fat is hot enough. 

"3. Too much moisture adhering to the surface of things to 
be fried." 

Many things that would be ruined by boiling in water can be 
quickly and delicately cooked in hot fat. If there be plenty of 
fat in the pan, if this be of the right temperature, and if the 
article to be cooked be not wet so the hot liquid can take im- 
mediate hold of it, it need never be greasy or fat-soaked. On the 
contrary, the surface will be seared over or hardened as soon as 
it comes in contact with the hot fat and thus become imper- 
vious. Boiling water penetrates and finally dissolves most sub- 
stances long exposed to its influence. Hot fat hardens and finally 
reduces that which is immersed in it to a cinder. If properly 
managed the frying-pan is one of the most useful and indispen- 
sable utensils. Here is an instance in which there's a great deal 
in a name. By applying the term "fry" to altogether the wrong 
operation it has come into great disrepute. 

For frying small things, a wire basket, similar to the cut be- 
low, is used as a help in handling them. Croquettes, Saratoga 
potatoes, etc., are first put in the basket, and then the whole 
lowered into the hot fat. The basket should never quite reach 
the bottom of the fry-kettle. The 
temperature of the fat can be tested 
by dropping a bit of bread in it. If it 
brown in five or six seconds, the heat 
is right. When a light, hardly perceptible smoke begins to 
curl up from the kettle the fat is also generally of the right tem- 
perature. 

The fats used for frying are olive oil, butter, lard, or any sweet, 
clear, dripping. Any one of these may be used again and again 
if it is properly cared for. It should be kept clear of both dregs 
and scum, and carefully strained into earthen vessels containing 
a little water, so that any sediment may fall to the bottom each 
time after using. Fat used for frying fish should be kept sepa- 
rate from that used for meats, and that in which sweets, such 
as doughnuts, are fried, should be kept separate from either. 
The fry-kettle must be scrupulously clean. Too much pains can- 
not be taken in regard to this. Croquettes, oysters, small fish, 




30 TERMS USED IN COOKING. 

etc., should be laid for a moment on blotting-paper, near the fire, 
when taken from the fat. This will entirely absorb any super- 
ficial grease, and render them dry and crisp. The fry-kettle 
should be at least six inches deep. 

Brillat-Savarin, in his most entertaining book on "Gastronomy 
as a Fine Art," makes a learned professor discourse as follows on 
"The Theory of Frying," to a delinquent cook who had spoiled 
a fine fish in the operation, 

"The liquids which you expose to the action of fire become 
charged with different amounts of heat, in virtue of some prop- 
erty impressed upon them by Nature, the secret of which is yet 
reserved from us. Thus, you might with impunity dip your 
finger in spirits of wine when boiling, but you would draw it out 
quick enough from brandy, and quicker still if it were water, 
while even a hasty immersion in boiling oil would hurt you cru- 
elly — the capacity of oil for heat being at least three times that 
of water. 

"Hence it is that an alimentary substance in boiling water 
softens, becomes dissolved, and forms a soup; and in oil, it con- 
tracts, assumes a darker color, and at last has its surface carbon- 
ized. In the former case, the water dissolves and draws out the 
juices contained by the sapid substance; in the latter, the juices 
are preserved, because the oil cannot dissolve them. It is to the 
second process, boiling in oil or fat, that the term ' to fry ' is 
properly applied. 

"The beauty of a good fry is carbonizing or browning the sur- 
face by sudden immersion — the process known as the ' surprise.' 
It forms a sort of vault to enclose all that is valuable, prevents 
the fat from reaching it, and concentrates the juices, so as best 
to develop the alimentary qualities." 

LARDIKG. 

This is one method of garnishing and at the same time season- 
ing meats naturally dry and deficient in fat, such as fillet of beef, 
the breast of fowls, liver, etc. It is done by running strips of 
pork, called lardoons into the surface of the article to be larded. 
A larding needle [see cut] greatly facilitates the work. These 
^__________,,_,__. lardoons should be cut from the 

firmest dry salted pork or bacon 



TERMS USED IN COOKING. 



31 



and must be even in size and of equal length, these being deter- 
mined by the proportions of that for which they are intended to 
be used. 

The process is as follows: A puncture is made with the sharp 
point of the larding needle on the surface of the article operated 
on, the needle is pushed partly through and one end of a lardoon 
is then inserted in the split extremity or eye of the needle, which 
closes tightly on it as it is drawn to the opposite side. The lar- 
doons are placed at regular intervals and arranged according to 
any fanciful design that may please the cook. Their projecting 
ends should be of equal length. 

The following illustration shows a fillet of beef partly larded 
and will explain the whole operation better than words can: 




LEMON ZEST. 

This is obtained by rubbing loaf sugar over the yellow surface 
of a lemon, thus extracting the oil which gives this portion of 
the rind its peculiar pungency. This sugar is then used to 
sweeten and flavor custards, creams, puddings, etc. It is also 
pounded fine and sifted into meringues when it is desired to im- 
part to them a taste of lemon. It is simply a more delicate and 
safer way of obtaining the flavor than by grating the rind, since 
this is contained only in its yellow surface. The white part is 
bitter and indigestible. This fact should be remembered when a 
receipt directs that the grated rind of a lemon should be used. 

BOASTING. 

This is almost a lost art to American cooks. It can only take 
place before an open fire and is utterly impracticable in connection 
with a modern cook stove or range. Mrs. Beeton says: "Of the 
various methods of preparing meat, roasting is that which most 
effectually preserves its nutritive qualities. Meat is roasted by 
being exposed to the direct influence of the fire. This is done by 



32 TERMS USED IN COOKING. 

placing the meat before an open grate, and keeping it in motion 
to prevent the scorching of any part. When meat is properly- 
roasted, the outer layer of its albumen is coagulated, and thus 
presents a barrier to the exit of the juice. In roasting meat the 
heat must be strongest at first, and it should then be much re- 
duced. To have a good juicy roast, therefore, the fire must be 
red and vigorous at the very commencement of the operation. 
In the most careful roasting some of the juice is squeezed out o£ 
the meat; this evaporates on the surface of the meat, and gives 
it a dark brown color, a rich lustre, and a strong aromatic taste. 
Besides these effects on the albumen and the expelled juice, 
roasting converts the cellular tissue of the meat into gelatine, 
and melts the fat out of the fat-cells." 

EOUX. 

This is butter and flour melted together and cooked, and it is 
the foundation of many savory sauces. The common method of 
making gravies and sauces is to add an uncooked flour paste to 
the stock or liquor of which these are to be made and thus 
thicken it. A much better flavored and smoother sauce is ob- 
tained, however, by cooking the flour and butter and adding the 
stock very slowly to it. Roux is of two kinds, brown and white. 
The former is used as a foundation for dark sauces ; the latter for 
drawn butter, Bechamel and light sauces. The difference in the 
color of the roux depends upon the length of time the mixture 
is cooked. If the ingredients are simply melted together and 
simmered a moment or two, the roux will, be white; if exposed 
to the efl'ect of heat until the flour is browned, it will be dark. 

SAUTEING. 

Frying, as I have already explained, is cooking by immersion 
in hot fat. Sauteing is a modification of this process by which 
a small quantity only of fat is used, and the thing cooking must 
be constantly turned or tossed about, if the operation is to be 
successfnl. Hence, the word, from the French sauter, to jump 
OT faire sautei\ to make jump, to toss. In this method, as in 
frying, the fat should be hot at the beginning of the process. It 
is a favorite method of cooking potatoes, cutlets, chops, small 
birds, etc. Dougiinuts, croquettes, and small fish are fried. Pan- 



TERMS USED IN COOKING. 33 

cakes, omelettes, cutlets, are saute. In all cases it requires care- 
ful attention to saute well, and the cook cannot leave her work 
with impunity until it is entirely finished. 
This is a cut of the most approved style of 
saut6 pan. s^^^fi pan. 

GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IK MODERN COOKING. 

(compiled from the best authorities.) 

Angelica. — A plant, the tender, tubular branches of which,, 
after being preserved in syrup, are used to decorate puddings, 
jellies, etc. 

Assiette (plate). — Assiettes are the small entrees and hors 
d'oeuvres, the quantity of which does not exceed what a plate 
will hold. At dessert, fruits, cheese, etc., if served upon a plate, 
are termed assiettes. 

Assiette volante. — A dish which the servant hands round to 
the guests, but is not placed upon the table. 

Aspic. — A savory jelly, used as an exterior molding for boned 
chicken, tongue, cold game, etc. This being of a transparent 
nature, allows that which it covers to be seen through it. It 
may also be used in other ways for decorating and garnishing. 

Au bleu. — Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a bluish 
appearance. 

Bain-marie. — An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling 
water, in which a smaller vessel or vessels can be set for cooking 
and warming. 

Bechamel. — French white sauce. 

Bisque. — Soup made generally with shell fish. 

Blanch.— To whiten nuts, v^etables, fruits, poultry, etc., by 
plunging them into boiling water for a short time, and after- 
wards plunging them into cold water, there to remain until they 
are cold. 

BlatKjiiette. — A sort of fricassee. 

Bouilli. — Beef or other meat boiled; generally speaking, boiled 
beef is understood by the term. 

Bouillie. — A French dish resembling hasty pudding. 

Bouillon. — A rich beef broth. 



34 TERMS USED IN COOKING. 

Braize. — To cook meat in a kettle having a lid so arranged a? 
to hold coals, and thus apply direct heat above and below. 

Braisiere. — A saucepan or kettle having a lid with ledges, to 
put fire on the top. 

B rider. — To truss poultry, game, etc., to keep them in shape. 

Bouquet-garni. — A bunch of soup herbs tied together. 

Caramel. — Burnt sugar dissolved in boiling water, used to 
color soups, gravies, etc. 

Casserole. — A crust . of rice which, after having been molded 
into form, is baked, and then filled with a fricassee of white 
meat, or fried chicken. 

Compote. — A stew, as of fruit or pigeons. 

Consommee. — Rich, clear stock or soup. 

Croquettes. — Rolls or balls of minced meat, rice, potatoes, etc., 
fried. 

Croutons. — Dic3, or sippets of bread, fried brown, and used in 
soups. These words both signify something crisp. 

Dauhiere. — An oval stewpan in which dauhes are cooked; 
dauhes being meat or fowl stewed in sauce. 

Desosser. — To bone. 

Entrees. — Small side or corner dishes, served with the first 
course. 

Entremets. — Small side or corner dishes, served with the second 
course. 

Escalopes. — Collops; small pieces of tender meat, or fish, 
chopped and served on toast. 

Espagnole and veloute. — The two main sauces from which all 
others are made; the first is brown and the other white. 

Farce. — Is a coarse kind of force meat used for pies. 

Feuilletage. — Puff-paste. 

Flamher. — To singe fowl, or game, after they have been picked. 

Foncer. — To put in the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, 
veal, or thin, broad slices of bacon. 

Galette. — A broad, thin cake. 

Gateau. — A cake, correctly speaking; but used sometimes to 
denote a pudding, and a kind of tart. 

Glacer. — To glaze, or spread upon hot meats, or larded fowl, a 
thick and rich sauce or gravy, called glaze. This is laid on with 



TERMS USED IN COOKINQ. 35 

a feather or brush. In confectionery the term means to ice 
fruits and pastry with sugar, which glistens on hardening. 

Hors doeuvres. — Small dishes, or assiettes volantes of sardines, 
anchovies, and other relishes of this kind, served to the guests 
during the first course. 

Jardiniere. — A mixed preparation of vegetables, stewed down 
in their own sauce. 

Lit. — A bed or layer; articles in thin slices are placed in lay- 
ers, other articles, or seasoning, being laid between them. 

Macedoine. — The same as a jardiniere, when of vegetables; 
when of fruits, a kind of jelly. 

Maigre. — Broth, soup, or gravy, made without meat. 

Matelote. — A rich fish stew, made with wine. 

Mai/onnaise. — Cold sauce, or salad dressing made with the yolk 
of egg and olive oil. 

Menu. — The bill of fare. 

Meringue. — A kind of icing, made of whites of eggs and sugar 
well beaten, and used to spread over the top of a pudding or pie, 
and then slightly browned in the oven. 

Miroton. — Slices of meat. 

Mouiller. — To add water, broth, or other liquid, during the 
cooking. 

Nougat. — A mixture of almonds and sugar. 

Nouilles. — A kind of vermicelli. 

Paner. — To cover with very fine crumbs of bread. 

Piquer. — To lard with strips of fat pork or bacon. 

Poelee. — Stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweet 
breads, fowls, and vegetables, to render them more highly fla- 
vored. 

Purie. — Vegetables or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp, 
which is afterwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the 
consistency of very thick soup. 

Quenelle. — A delicate sort of force meat. 

Ragout. — Stew or hash. 

Remoidade. — Salad dressing. 

Rissoles. — Pastry, made of light puff-paste, and cut into va- 
rious forms and fried. They may be filled with fish, meat, or 
sweets. 

Roux. — French thickening; brown, and white. 



36; TERMS USED IN COOKING. 

Salmi. — Ragout of game previously roasted. 

Sauce plquayite. — A sharp sauce, in which an acid flavor pre- 
dominates. 

Sauter. — To cook in a saucepan with hot lard or butter, re- 
peatedly stirring or moving it about. 

Souffles. — The word souffle means strictly something puffed up, 
and is generally applied to a very light and delicate kind of 
pudding. 

Taints. — Tammy, a sort of open Qloth or sieve, through which 
to strain broth or sauces. 

Tourte. — Tart; fruit-pie. 

Trousser. — To truss a bird. 

Vol~au-vent. — A rich crust of very fine puff paste, which 
may be filled with various delicate preparations of fish, flesb 
fowl, or fruit. 



CHAPTER IV. 




UTENSILS. 

HE utensils for woman's use in domestic matters are 
||f quite as important in tlieir relation to results, as the ap- 
paratus in the laboratory, or the tools in the work-shop. 
Under inspection, most kitchens could offer only an 
array of ill-selected, worse cared for implements, few in number, 
worn and battered, and entirely inadequate to the needs of the 
cook if she be expected to do good work. The wonder is that 
the results of her labor are even as satisfactory as they are. A 
cook can no more produce dainty food with means unsuited to 
that end, than an artisan can do good work without fit tools. 
The carelessness of housekeepers in providing proper conven- 
iences for kitchen use is due in great measure to their ignorance 
rather than their p^uriousness. I have been astonished at the 
curiosity and interest excited in my classes by my array of work- 
ing tools, and the eagerness with which lists of modern utensils 
have been copied and forwarded to dealers under my directions. 
"We did not know there were such things to be had" has been 
the almost universal exclamation. Especially is this true in the 
country, where, no call being made for better things, the shelves 
of hardware merchants repeat forever the same display of iron 
pot and tin pan our grandmothers used in Revolutionary times, 
or before. Woman is naturally conservative, and unless her at- 
tention is called to improved ways and means, will travel indefi- 
nitdy the well beaten but difficult path worn into ruts by the 
weary feet of those who have preceded her. But she is quick 
also to see and imitate, and if once guided into easier ways will 
follow them eagerly. 

I shall endeavor in this chapter to illustrate and explain some 
of the newer and more valuable devices for making the culinary 
art easier to practice and surer in its results. Should a few think 
me somewhat too minute, I am sure the many will find no fault 

37 



UTENSILS. 






with the full and specific directions here set forth in regard to 
improved utensils. I have not confined myself strictly to cooking 
conveniences, but in a very few instances have mentioned tools 
I have found exceptionally useful in other departments of 
housework. 

Apple Corer. — This simple contrivance explains 
itself. This form is preferable to any other I have 
tried. If the tube is not sharpened as at a it is almost 
impossible to avoid splitting the. apple. 

The Baik Marie is a 
heavy pan of sufficient size 
to hold several sauce-pans. 
It is partly filled with 
hot water and kept on the 
back of the range. 

Bain Marie Sauce-Pan. — The small 
sauce-pans containing gravies, sauces, etc., 
being immersed in the hot water, are 
kept at the proper temperature until 
needed. The hain marie is kept on the 
back part of the range where the water 
will keep hot, yet not actually boil. Food kept warm in this 
way does not deteriorate in quality nor dry up like that kept on 
the top of the range or in the oven. The hain marie is almost 
indispensable in the preparation of a dinner of many courses. It 
is well nigh impossible in any ordinary kitchen, or with the usual 
number of servants, to prepare all the different garnishes and 
sauces at the last moment. Nor is it necessary if .only they can 
be kept hot and fresh as in the hain marie. 
Brown Bread Pan. — This is the most convenient shape 
for a pan in which brown bread is to be steamed. 
The cover fits closely and laps over far enough to 
ensure against the possibility of coming off acciden- 
tally, or of permitting the steam or water to enter 
the pan. 




UTENSILS. 



39 




Cake Box. — The upright cake box with shelves for different 
varieties of cake, is much more convenient 
than the old fashioned box with trays, 
each of which had to be successively lifted 
out to get at the contents below. It has 
this advantage, too, that the amount and 
kind of cake on hand can be determined at 
a glance. It is easy to keep clean and 
convenient in every way. ■ It may be 
obtained in several sizes, either with or 
without lock and key, and answers as 
well for bread as for cake. 

Casseeole. — This is simply a rice border in which may be 
served a stew of meat, sauted chicken, vegetables, or something 
sweet, as preserved fruit. The rice, boiled soft and mashed with 
a wooden spoon until perfectly smooth, is either pressed in a 
mold and then after it has cooled and hardened, the mold is un- 
clasped and carefully removed, leaving 
the rice form, the center of which is 
scooped out and the casserole filled and 
placed in a very hot oven for a few mo- 
ments before serving, or the casserole may 
be moulded into shape by hand, then 
baked, the center removed, etc. This 
latter is a delicate and difficult operation 
and is seldom attempted except by professional cooks. Franca- 
telli greatly prides himself on the deftness and artistic skill with 
which he can shape and decorate a cass^ro^g. He says: "A cas- 
serole of rice is justly considered one of the most elegant entrees; 
it requires great care throughout its preparation, especially in 
the treatment of the rice, that being its basis, and upon the suc- 
cess of this much of the beauty of the casserole depends. If 
the rice be not sufficiently boiled, and effectually worked into a 
smooth paste, it becomes a difficult matter to mold it, and any 
apparent roughness would spoil the looks of the casseroled 
Charlotte Russe Cup and Mold. — These are lined with 

sponge cake and filled with a prep- 
aration of whipped cream, a cup 
for each person, or the mold for the 




CASSEROLK MOLD. 




40 



UTENSILS. 



whole number. After the cream has remained long enough in 
the cake, the molds being surrounded by ice, or standing in a 
very cold place, to become firm, the whole will slip out, retaining 
the form of the mold. 

CiRCULAE Mold. — A is a circular, open tin mold to be filled 
-".^rmTTnTTTTrr,^ ^^^^ wine jelly, corn starch, hlatic mange, Ba- 
varian cream, rice, or anything of the sort 
which can be molded. After the circle of 
jelly or hlanc mange is removed from the mold, 
the center can be filled with whipped cream, fruit, jelly, choco- 
late, etc. The filling may vary indefinitely according to the 
taste of the cook. If the border is rice, fried chicken, green peas, 
or something of that kind may compose the filling. Figure a 
represents a circle of wine jelly filled with whipped cream, b a 
more ornamental border of hlanc mange filled partly with berries 
and the center heaped with whipped cream; c is the same mold 
empty. & 







A small sized cleaver similar to the illustration is a most con- 
venient utensil. To be sure a hatchet will do, provided a sharp 
one is kept for the sole purpose of dis- 
jointing fowls, breaking the bones of 
eteaks, etc., tomake he carving easier, or for the many similar 
purposes for which it may be needed. A good cleaver, however, 
costs little more than a hatchet, and being heavier in the blade, 
shorter handled and a better shape, is much to be preferred. 

Clothes SpRn<rKLER. — Any housewife who has 

ever used this, costing as it does but a few cents, 

will never again waste time and water sprinkling 

clothes the old way. 

Copper Stew-Pan. — Copper cooking utensils have many things 




UTENSILS. 



41 



to recommend them. 





They are very durable, retain the heat 
a long time, are flat-bot- 
tomed, and show every par- 
ticle of dirt, so that at a 
glance it is- easy to tell 
whether they are properly 
cared for or not. Both stew 
pan and cover are coated 
with tin on their inner sur- 
face, so that any danger 
of poisonous compounds 
caused by the action on the copper of acids, oils, or salt, is com- 
pletely avoided. If this lining wears off they can easily be re- 
tinned, and the first expense in purchasing them, which is com- 
paratively heavy, is more than compensated for by their great 
durability. Since copper is a good conductor of heat, less fuel 
is required for cooking in a copper stew pan than in one of iron 
or tin. Food should never be allowed to stand in any copper 
cooking utensil to cool. The stew pans should be kept scrupu- 
lously clean. A good preparation for cleaning them is a mixture 
of turpentine and fine brick-dust rubbed on with flannel. After 
being cleaned with this they should be wiped with a dry, soft 
cloth and finally polished with a dry chamois skin and powdered 
whiting. Miss Corson says in her ''Cooking School Text Book": 
"One of the best chefs belonging to the New York Cooking 
School always had the coppers cleaned with the following mix- 
ture, rubbed on with the hand, and then washed off with clean, 
cold water, and always employed a soft towel to dry them thor- 
oughly; the mixture consisted of equal parts of salt, fine sand, 
and flour, made into a thick paste with milk or buttermilk." At 
the South Kensington National Training School of Cookery, fine 
sand, soap and lemon juice are the polishing materials used in 
cleaning the coppers. This is rubbed on with the palm of the 
hand, and the coppers, when spotlessly bright within and with- 
out, are washed and dried. 
firt^ Confectioner's Tube. — This is used for decorating 
mI the icing on cakes, the meringues on pies and puddings. 
The tubes come having the opening at the small end cut 
in various ornamental shapes. 




42 



UTENSILS. 





Bag for Usin"G with Tube. — The bag is made of some closely- 
woven, strong material through which the 
meringue will not leak. The tube A is put in 
the bag B, the bag is then filled with icing, and 
this can be squeezed at will in any desirable 
form through the ornamental opening at the 
bottom of the tube by compressing the bag. 
Mottoes are thus formed, monograms, flowers, 
or borders, as the fancy may dictate. Any tinner can make the 
tube, and any housewife the bag. In deft hands they will be 
found capable of producing an infinite variety of pleasing effects. 
Corn Cake Pans. — Here are shown two styles, joined together 

A, as in A, or single as in ^g^jb 
B. They are deeper \~W!^' 
than the ordinary gem ^-=-^ 
pan. They can be bought in agate 
or tinware and are comparatively inexpensive. Corn muffins or 
cakes served in this shape are much nicer than in loaves, and, 
cooked in small quantities as in the^e cups, are more certain to 
be light, tender, and above all, evenly and thoroughly cooked 
than when baked in loaves. 
Cruller and Potato Fryer. — This ingenious utensil com- 
bines the advantages of a wire basket and fry- 
kettle. The perforated kettle hangs on the hook 
while the lard below is heating. When that is 
at the proper temperature the crullers, or pota- 
toes, or doughnuts are placed in this vessel and 
the whole lowered into the hot fat. As soon as 
they are cooked the pan is again suspended from 
the hook until its contents are thoroughly 
drained, they are then removed, a fresh supply takes their place, 
and the process is repeated. 

Custard Kettle. — This double kettle is a great booa to the 
h ^.«i3> housewife. The lower compartment 

a is partly filled with boiling water, 
the upper one h with milk for cus- 
tards, tapioca-cream, or any like prep- 
aration. This can then be left to heat 
without constant anxiety lest it may 





UTENSILS. 



43 



burn. Who cannot remember agonizing over a stew-pan of 
milk, with a dozen other things requiring immediate attention, 
and being tormented by the painful certainty that if the milk be 
left for a single moment it will surely scorch, though it can be 
watched and waited for half an hour without getting appreciably 
hotter. Or if the milk be put in a pail, and this placed in a ket- 
tle of hot water, either the pail obstinately refuses to stand up- 
right, or the water boils up into the milk. I shall not soon for- 
get the comfortable sense of satisfaction I experienced when I first 
tried this double kettle. What had before been a serious and 
harassing business became easy and comfortable, and the making 
of a smooth, velvety custard ceased from that moment to be 
drudgery. 

Digester. — This is a kind of iron stock-pot, the lid of which 
fits in a groove, thus effectually preventing the 
escape of the steam. A self-regulating valve 
at the top permits the outgo of superfluous 
steam. This is a valuable utensil, as by its 
use more nutriment can be obtained to the 
pound of meat and bone than in any other 
way. They can be procured in all sizes, and 
the smaller ones are very useful in making sauces, gravies, etc. 
They should always be placed over a very slow fire and plenty of 
time be given for the extraction of all the juices from the meat. 
Doughnut Cutter. — This illustration explains itself and will 
suggest a means of relief to those who have been 
accust;omed to cutting doughnuts first with a biscuit 
cutter, and then removing the center with the top 
of the pepper-box. This cutter is a good substitute 
also for a jumble-mold. 

Egg Boiler. To those who are exceedingly par- 
ticular as to the exact second their eggs must be 
boiled, this copper egg boiler will offer a great lux- 
ury. It can be used at the breakfast table and the 
water can be kept boiling, if desired, by a spirit 
lamp underneath. 






44 



UTENSILS. 






Egg Fryers. — Egg fryers are iron spiders, molded after the 

manner of tlie illus- 
trations, wliicli are 
filled with hot lard or 
drippings, and the 
eggs are dropped sep- 
arately in each form. 
They can be turned 
if desired, and when 
sufficiently cooked are slipped out, retaining the imprint 
of the mold, on thin slices of broiled ham. 

Egg Poacher. — This illustration presents one form of the egg 
poacher. They are offered in many pat- 
terns and with sauce-pans to correspond. 
They are immersed in boiling water, the 
eggs dropped in, and when these are cooked 
the poacher is lifted out of the sauce-pan. 
Each little perforated cup is movable and 
can be removed from the stand and the egg carefully emptied 
out on a slice of toast. 

Egg Whisk. — For beating a large number of eggs, from eight 

or ten to a dozen or more, this is 
preferable to any egg beater. It is 
also convenient to whip cream. 
Cream can be beaten to a stiff foam with a good egg whisk 
in half the time it would take to do it with a " Whipped Cream 
Churn." 
Drip-pan Grate or Trivet. — No dripping-pan or meat roaster 
should be used for baking meats with- 
out having adjusted to it such a 
grate, to lift the meat from direct contact with the bottom of 
the pan. 

The Fish Kettle is almost indispensable for boiling a fish 

of any size. Each kettle is 
fitted with a flat strainer, 
having a handle to lift it by. 
The fish is placed on the 
strainer and lowered into the 
boiling water. When done, 
the strainer is carefully lifted out and the fish gently slipped off. 






UTENSILS. 



45 



In tliis way the danger of breaking it in dishing up is almost 
wholly avoided. 

Felt Jelly Bag. — These can be purchased in all 
sizes and are used in connection with the jelly strainer 
illustrated a little farther on. They are stronger, 
strain more perfectly, and are much more durable 
than any home-made bag. 

The Flour Dredge is used to sprinkle flour over 

fish, meats, and all things that need it. A similar box 

'is alsp employed to dredge cookies, buns, etc., with 

sugar. It is convenient also for flouring the pastry 

board. 

Fluted Knife. — Vegetables for garnishing, such as potatoes, 

carrots, and turnips, can be cut into a va- 



riety of pleasing shapes with this knife. Below are found a few 
illustrations of the easier forms. With a little ingenuity many 
fanciful effects can be produced. 








Sabatiere's, and French Cooks' Knives. — When these have 

once been tried, they 
seem absolutely indis- 
pensable to the cook. 
The smallest size is also called a honing knife. 
^ The second size is the style 
and shape of Sabatiere's 
carving knife which I can also cordially recommend. These 
knives are strong, of excellent material, easily kept sharp, and 
of the right shape. 




46 



UTENSILS. 





Gravy Strainer. — If gravy and sauces, very unsightly from 
I lumps, were not so common, I should not think 
it necessary to illustrate so simple a utensil. 
The above is an excellent style, as it can be held 
over a small gravy, or sauce boat, and at the 
same time it is large enough to hold a reasonable 
quantity. A wooden handle is to be preferred to a tin one as it 
does not heat through so quickly, and is also pleasant to hold. 
Individual Ice Cream Molds. — These are made of lead lined 
with porcelain, and come in a great variety of 
shapes. The cream is partly frozen, then the 
molds are filled, closed and packed in ice. 
When they are to be removed they are im- 
mersed for a second in hot water. They then turn out easily, 
and furnish a much more ornamental way of serving ice cream 
than the ordinary method of dishing it out by the spoonful. In 
a city one can order such things from the confectioner, but there 
is no reason why any good housewife in a small town or on a 
farm, who has milk and cream in abundance should not have 
ice cream as often as she desires it. Ice is coming to be consid- 
ered a necessity, and the wife of a well-to-do and thrifty farmer 
can almost always command it. With proper utensils she may 
rival her city friends in the elegance of her entertainments. 
Jelly or Soup Strainer. — Something of this sort is almost 
indispensable in a house where jellies and soups 
are often made. The felt jelly bag described 
'^ on page 45, is drawn securely over the frame a 
^ which fits exactly the top of the stand. This 
frame is then adjusted to the stand, and the hot 
liquid poured in without fear of spilling or 
leaking. A soup stand should, of course, be 
larger than the jelly stand, and the bag should 
be made of strong factory, or crash. 

Lady-Finger Cake Pans. — Of course if one lives in or near a 

town of any size, where the baker 
will furnish " lad3^-fingers" whenever 
they are needed for Charlotte Russe, 
cabinet puddings, or dainties of that 
sort, one need not stop to manufac- 





UTENSILS. 



47 





ture them herself. But in many villages, and on many farms it 
is impossible to get them at any price, unless they are manufac- 
tured at home. Sponge cake is easily made, and when eggs are 
cheap and abundant, is as inexpensive as it is delicious. With 
the pans illustrated above, lady-fingers are not so much trouble 
to make as ordinary cookies. 
Lemok Squeezer. — The porcelain lined lemon squeezer, as 
here shown, is the best style for use, as 
the acid corrodes a metal one, and is apt 
to receive an unpleasant flavor from one 
made wholly of wood. 
Meat Pie Mold. — This cut represents the mold closed and 

ready for use. It is first well buttered, 
M. the paste then pressed into it, then 
filled, the cover put on and orna- 
mented, and then baked. When 
taken from the oven, the wire pin A 
is drawn out, and the mold opens 
and is taken away from the pie, instead of the pie being lifted 
from it. There is therefore no danger of breaking or disfigur- 
ing the crust. Empty cases, to be filled with meat, game, or 
anything of the sort, are often made in these molds. The paste 
must necessarily be stiff and rather tough to take and retain the 
imprint. It is often not intended to be eaten at all, but simply 
to serve as an ornamental dish, the contents of which can be 
served as from any other receptacle. 
Meat Squeezer.— This is used to press the juice from rare 
cooked beef. An excellent food for in- 
valids or those convalescing from wast- 
ing disease, is made by toasting delicately 
a piece of bread, and then squeezing 
over it the juice of beef, and adding 
enough salt to make it palatable. If 
strong beef extract is needed quickly in 
an emergency it can be obtained in this 
way. 




48 



UTENSILS. 





MoKTAR AKD Pestle. — This old-fasliioned 
convenience is so useful it ought never to be 
omitted from a housekeeper's list. The ac- 
companying cut shows one made of wedge- 
wood, which is much to be preferred to 
iron. 
MuFFiw Cups and Rings. — The cut A represents the plain 
^ deep mufSn cup, B a more orna- 
mental shape, and C the old style 
rings. The first is the most con- 
venient form, as both the other 
designs require a dripping pan to 
hold them. The rings are placed 
in u pan, then filled and baked. 

Pastry Brush. — Such a brush is used to varnish over pastry, 
buns, tea-cakes, etc., with the white 
or yolk of egg. It also serves to apply 
glaze to meat. 
Paste Jagger. — The wheel A is used for cutting pastry for 

^^q)^^ the borders of pies, strips to criss-cross on 

1^ ' ^dU^ cranberry, or other open tarts, and the orna- 

\iM. mental figure B is imprinted on the outer edge 

of the pie. 
Potato Cutters. — By means of these cutters uniform and 

shapely pieces can be cut from po- 
tatoes or other vegetables. These, 
if of potatoes, are first parboiled in 
salted water, and then fried a deli- 
cate brown in hot fat and used, in 
general, to garnish meat dishes, such as boiled beef, beef 
a-la-mode, etc. 
Potato Masher. — This style is much to be preferred to the 

solid wooden masher. 
When this is used 
the potato can be 
thoroughly mashed, 
and at the same time 
made light and creamy. 




jtfUL 




UTENSILS. 



49 




Potato Quiklers. — With these, carrots, turnips, or potatoes 
f 2 I ^ may be cut into the forms illustrated. The quirls of 
carrot are boiled in salted water until tender, the 
potatoes usually fried in hot lard like Saratoga pota- 
toes. They make a handsome garnish, or they may 
be served by themselves. The quirler is forced into 
the vegetable as far as A. The handle, as is shown, 
is separate from the quirlers, fitting them all, and 
must be taken off each time in order to remove the 
quirl, the vegetable having first been cut through to 
meet the steel. 
Sieve for Purees. — Anyone who has tried to rub pea, or bean, 
A ^ or any vegetable puree, through an 

ordinary sieve with a spoon will wel- 
come this as a valuable addition to 
their kitchen tools. The handle A is 
attached to a wooden masher which 
fits the sieve loosely enough to admit 
of being moved about sufficiently to press the contents through. 
The sieve itself is very strong and will admit of the necessary 
strain. 

Squash Strainer. — This is a strong, well 
made strainer somewhat coarser than an 
ordinary flour sieve, and much stronger. 
The puree sieve will do nicely for squash 
also. 

Taper Strainer. — A most excel- 
lent form for straining sauces, cus- 
tards, etc. It holds a convenient 
quantity, and offers a large surface 
for the liquid to pass through, and 
thus enables the work to be done 
quickly. 

Tea-kettle Steamer. — This steamer fits 
the opening in the top of a tea-kettle, and 
is so made as to hold almost as much as the 
common steamer. If the stove is crowded 
it saves the need of an extra kettle of water 
and thus economizes space. 






50 



UTENSILS- 



TfiUSSiifG Needle. — A needle of this sort should be long 
enough to reach entirely through a 




turkey, or better still, one should have several needles graduated 
in size. A fowl cannot be properly trussed unless the cord 
which holds it in shape is first passed through the body at the 
second joint, and again at the wings. 
Vegetable Basket. — A wire basket of this sort is used to 
hold eggs, potatoes, etc., which are to be 
boiled. By placing these in the basket 
before plunging them into the boiling 
water, they can all, when done, be lifted 
out of the water at once. Salads can be 
washed and left to drain in such a basket, 
and thus frequent handling, so detri- 
mental to their crisp freshness, can be avoided. 

Vegetable Cutters. — 
Here are represented a few 
of the shapes of these 
pretty tin cutters. They are 
useful not only in cutting 
vegetables for soups or for 
garnishing, but they may 
be employed in many other 
ways. They furnish taste- 
ful forms for croutons or 
sippets of bread; and pud- 
dings, jellies, and cakes can be beau- 




tif ully ornamented by their 
aid. The illustration shows 
the shapes of the cut pieces 
also. 




CHAPTER V. 




MARKETING. 

^VERY sensible housekeeper should know enough about 
marketing to select her supplies wisely and intelligently. 
Economy begins here. Tradesmen soon discover who 
f may be imposed on safely. The fine cuts of meat, the 
freshest eggs, the crispest salads, the soundest vegetables go to 
the house whose mistress has posted herself on all these matters 
and cannot therefore be deceived, while she who does not know 
a porter-house steak from a round, nor a young and tender fowl 
from the "oldest inhabitant" of the barn-yard, will continually 
be disappointed because her meat is tough and tasteless, and her 
supplies in general poor in quality. A little attention will soon 
compass the more important items of information, and the time 
employed in learning how to market to the best advantage is 
certainly well spent. 

BEEF. 

This is the most important animal food. How essential, then, 
that it should be selected with care and that infinite pains should 
be taken to distinguish healthy sound beef from that which is 
diseased, or in any way unfit for use. Fortunately the charac- 
teristics of good beef are so marked that they can be easily dis- 
tinguished, and a little experience will enable one to tell with 
tolerable accuracy its condition in regard to health and tender- 
ness. The necessity for care in securing meat free from disease 
is so vital that every one should know precisely the marks 
by which to be guided in its selection. I therefore append Dr. 
Letheby's instructions in regard to the character of sound meat. 
Dr. Letheby had charge of the London markets for some years, 
and paid special attention to the quality and condition of the 
meat supply. I give this extract, consequently, with perfect 

51 



52 MARKETING. 

confidence in the facts it presents. He says: "Good meat has 
the following characters: — 

"1st. It is neither of a pale pink color nor of a deep purple 
tint, for the former is a sign of disease, and the latter indicates 
that the animal has not been slaughtered but has died with the 
blood in it, or has suffered from acute fever. 

"2d. It has a marbled appearance from the ramification of 
little veins of fat among the muscles. 

"3d. It should be firm and elastic to the touch, and should 
scarcely moisten the fingers — bad meat being wet, and sodden, 
and flabby, with the fat looking like jelly or wet parchment. 

"4th. It should have little or no odor, and the odor should 
not be disagreeable, for diseased meat has a sickly, cadaverous 
smell, and sometimes a smell of physic. This is very discovera- 
ble when the meat is chopped up and drenched with warm water. 

"5th. It should not run to water or become very wet on stand- 
ing for a day or so, but should, on the contrary, dry upon the 
surface. 

"6fch. When dried at a temperature of 212 degrees or there- 
about, it should not lose more than from 70 to 74 per cent of its 
weight, whereas bad meat will often lose as much as 80 per cent. 

"7th. It should not shrink or waste much in cooking." 

The color of the best beef is a deep bright red, and the suet a 
light cream color. In tender beef the fat is interspersed through 
the muscle giving it what is called a marbled appearauce. The 
suet of tender beef is dry and firm, will crumble easily, and con- 
tains but little fibre. When the suet is oily, or full of stringy 
fibre, and is small in quantity, it may be regarded as certain proof 
that the beef is tough, dry, and tasteless. Tough beef will also 
have an open and coarse grain as well as tough cartilages, sin- 
ews, ligaments, and muscle. The best beef animals carry a large 
amount of flesh in proportion to the size of the bones. If the 
animal has been killed immediate!}" after too hard driving, or 
when overheated from any cause, the flesh will spoil quickly, and 
both flesh and fat will have a dark look, caused from excess of 
blood. Such beef is, of course, to be avoided. 

The ox when slaughtered is cut into sides, the division line 
being the back-bone. These sides are again subdivided into 
quarters. The choice roasting pieces, and most delicate steaks 



MARKETING. 



53 



are cut from the hind quarter. The sirloin extends along the 
back-bone from the hip to the ribs, that nearest the rump being 
called the thick-end sirloin, and that next the ribs, thinend 
sirloin or porter-house. The sirloin makes good steaks or prime 
roasting pieces. 




SIRLOIN ROAST. 

This represents, what is sometimes called the middle-cut sir- 
loin. That is, it is taken from between the thick or hip-sirloin 
and the thin-end or porter-house. B B are the ridge of the 
back-bone — d that portion of the back-bone that helps to form 
the arch of the back, c the tenderloin steak, lying under the bone 
on the kidney side. 



[ 







SIRLOIN STEAK. 

This "fine steak comes from the thick or hip end of the sirloin 
and contains the most tenderloin of any of the sirloin steaks. 
BB is the back-bone, c the flange of the back-bone and d the ten- 
derloin. The thick end is much more profitable for steak for 
family use than the porter-house or thin end. 

Excellent steaks are also cut from the rump, these being the 



54 



MARKETING. 



favorite steaks in England. Steak, to be tender, should be cut 
across the grain. 

The small or thin end sirloin is cut either into steaks, called 
porter-house, or into small roasts. 

PORTER-HOUSE STEAK. 

B B the back-bone, c the continuation of this bone, (/, the 
tenderloin. 

This is a delicious morsel, but more wasteful than any other 
steak, as all the thin part beyond <? is practically of little account. 

It is, of course, 
weighed before 
it is trimmed, 
and cousidera- 
f^ ble of this is 
cut away be- 
fore it is sent 
to the house. 
Many butch- 
ers, i n d e e d, 

PORTER HOUSE STEAK. trlui off the 

whole of the thin end aud only send to their customers the 
portion between e and B B. 

The round lies below the rump, and from it are obtained excel- 
lent cuts for boiling, stewing, corning, a-la-mode beef, etc. 

Tlie leg furnishes soup-bones and meat. The first seven ribs, 
cut from the fore-quarter, are called '' prime ribs " and make ex- 





MIDDLE-CUT RIBS. 



MARKETING. 55 

cellent roasts. Indeed, they are considered by many as richer in 
flavor than the sirloin. The first two, joining the thin-end sir- 
loin are most suitable for small families. The third and fourth 
are known as the middle-cut ribs and are highly prized. 

The remaining six ribs are likewise used for roasts, though they 
do not furnish such delicious eating as the prime ribs. From 
the four ribs next the neck the chuck steaks are cut, and in a 
first-class animal these are by no means to be despised. The 
shin-bone makes good soup, and excellent pieces for boiling, 
corning, and stewing are obtained from the remainder of the 
fore-quarter. 

FILLET OF BEEF, OR TENDERLOm. 

This choice morsel extends the whole length of the sirloin, 
and lies on the under or kidney side of the back-bone. Its 
tenderness is due to the fact that the muscles composing it 
are little used during the lifetime of the animal, as it is 
so situated as to be protected on the under side by the suet 
or kidney fat, and on the upper side by the back-bone. 
Although so tender it is by no means the best flavored or 
most nutritious portion of the animal. The very want of exer- 
cise referred to above, renders it less juicy and rich than those 
parts to which a constant flow of blood is attracted by regular 
exertion. It is an expensive roast, costing often a dollar a pound. 
It is so dry and deficient in fat that it must be larded and highly 
seasoned to render it agreeable. It rarely weighs more than 
eight or ten pounds, and more frequently less. It is sometimes 
cut in small pieces, larded and broiled and served on toast, as a 
course at breakfast or luncheon. 

THE LIVER, THE HEART, THE TONGUE, THE KIDNEYS, AND TRIPE 

or a portion of the stomach, all are eaten with relish by 
many people. The heart, the liver, and the kidneys are not very 
easily digested, but they are extremely nutritious, and since they 
are among the cheapest parts of the ox, are valuable food for 
those who can eat them. Tripe is both digestible and nutritious. 

VEAL. 

Veal should not be killed younger than from six to eight 
weeks old. In France and Germany they are required to be ten 



56 MARKETING. 

months old before they can be butchered. The flesh should be 
a clear, bright red, the grain fine and close, the fat white and 
firm. Veal is the leanest of all meats and cannot be considered 
either very nutritious or very digestible. It is, indeed, as dif- 
ficult to digest as pork, requiring from four to five hours. It is 
a luxury to be indulged in sparingly, as a means rather of secur- 
ing that variety essential to zest for food, than as a necessity 
which will furnish warmth, strength, and energy. 

Veal is divided like beef into fore and hind quarters. These 
terms apply also to mutton and pork. The hind-quarter fur- 
nishes the loin which may be roasted whole or divided into two 
parts, each making a roasting piece, or may be cut into fine veal 
chops, and the leg, which likewise may or may not be divided. 
The loin is the choicest roasting piece, though the leg is not 
much inferior. From the leg veal cutlets are taken. The 
knuckle or lower part of the leg is used for soup or stew. 

From the fore-quarter come the shoulder, neck, and breast. 
The shoulder is frequently boned, stuffed, and roasted, and 
cooked in this way makes an excellent dinner. The breast is 
usually made into pot-pie, stew or similar dish, though it can be 
roasted if preferred. 

There is scarcely any part of the calf which is not considered 
edible. The head^ after being well scalded and shaven, is boiled 
and served whole, or made into a soup or stew. The tongue is 
either cooked with it or removed and eaten separately. Calves' 
feet make excellent jelly; the kidneys are considered a toothsome 
dainty, and the sweet bread and liver are justly regarded as great 
delicacies. The liver of no other animal can compare with that 
of the calf. Sweet-breads are, in cities, where the demand for 
them is usually great, so expensive that they may be regarded as 
among the most extravagant of luxuries. They are said to be 
" the most delicate in flavor of any meat with which we are ac- 
quainted." Even the eyes and the brains are considered good 
eating by epicures, though the sauce in which they are served 
must, I fancy, be depended on to give them relish. 

MUTTON. 

The lean of mutton should be a deep red color, its text- 
ure firm, the fat white, clean, and hard. In poor or diseased 



MARKETING. 



57 



mutton the fat will be yellowish and the flesh flabby. To be 
prime the animal should be from three to five years old when 
slaughtered. The leg furnishes the choicest roasting or boiling 
piece as it contains the least fat and is more solid, juicier, and 
more nourishing than any other joint. 
Hind Quaetee of Mutton. — From the hind quarter are cut 




the leg A and the loin B 
into chops. 



The loin is either roasted whole or cut 




Shoulder of Mutton. — From 
the fore-quarter we get the 
shoulder of mutton, which also 
makes an excellent roasting piece. 
It is a little lower in price than 
the leg, but if the shoulder-blade 
is removed and the opening filled 
with a savory stuffing it is little, 
if any, inferior to it. 
Mutton Chops. — These are cut from the breast, each chop 

containing one rib. They 
are somewhat smaller than 
,.^ those cut from the loin. The 
fr ^=,^^^^^^^^8*1. loin chops are sometimes 
called " English Chops." The 
breast is the lowest priced 
cut in the whole carcass, 
though not the most eco- 
nomical to purchase after all, 
since the proportion of fat is very large and the shrinkage great 
in cooking. The lean, too, is stringy and deficient in flavor. 

LAMB. 

Before the age of twelve months the joints are known as 
lamb instead of mutton. They correspond exactly with the 




58- MARKETING. 

cuts just described, being called "lamb chops," "shoulder of 
lamb," etc. As in beef and veal, almost every part of the sheep 
is eatable. The head, the tongue, the brains, the liver, the heart, 
the stomach, the sweet-bread, the kidneys, and even the eyes 
are considered edible. 

PORK. 

The importance of great care in selecting pork is so ex- 
treme that I quote from the best authority (De Voe) the fol- 
lowing minute directions: '"The skin should present a semi- 
transparent appearance, approaching white in color; the fat on 
the back should not be less than half an inch thick, white and 
firm, and the lean of a pale reddish color, and sappy. The skin 
of the older animals, or bacon hor^s, is thicker and coarser, while 
the lean is of a darker color but equally sweet, juicy, and tender. 

Measly Pork. — The flesh of the hog with this disease, when 
slaughtered, is exceedingly unwholesome, and is not fit to be 
used for any purpose. It may be known by the many yellowish 
lumps or kernels seen through the fat and lean, as well as the 
flesh having a heavy, dull appearance." 

POULTRY. 

Under this general term are included all domesticated fowls. 
When fresh, the eyes are full and bright, the feet and 
legs moist, soft, and limber. If they have been kept long 
after killing and have become stale, the eyes are shrunken, and 
the legs and feet are stiff" and dry, and when beginning actually 
to spoil, the body will begin to change color and oftentimes 
present a spotted and greenish appearance. 

A young chicken or turkey will have the tip of the breast- 
bone pliable and limber, so that it can be bent easily by the 
fingers. In the young fowl this is hardly more than cartilage 
but it hardens into bone as the bird matures. If the flesh on the 
breast yields readily to the pressure of the thumb or finger it is 
an evidence of tenderness. The spurs of a young cock are soft, 
loose, and short. When old, the comb and legs are rough, and the 
spurs become hard. When the legs of a turkey-cock are rough, 
the spur long and firm, the breast-bone hard, and the skin covering 
it hard and fat, you may be sure the bird under inspection has 
reached years of discretion, and will need long and careful cook- 
ing to make him palatable. 



MAEKETING. 59 

A full grown and mature turkey, is, however, preferred for 
boiling and boning, since the skin is elastic and sufficiently strong 
to bear the dressing and sewing without tearing. 

Young Ducks and Gesse have also a soft tip to the breast- 
bone, the skin is very tender and easily torn, and the legs and 
wind-pipe are brittle and it requires little effort to break them. 

Pigeons when full grown are rather dry and tasteless eating, 
but their young, called " squabs " are tender and delicate. The 
signs of age are long, thin legs, and very dark colored flesh. 
Giblets usually consist of the heart, liver, and gizzard. These 
are often chopped and added to the sauce or gravy served with 
roasted fowl, or are made into soup, the neck, wings and feet 
being added. In city markets, these parts come also under the 
term "giblets." 

Game Birds as a rule are heavier in proportion to their size, 
than barn-yard fowls. The meat is darker and stronger, having 
generally a fine rich flavor, known as a " gamey taste." Both 
the wild turkey and wild goose, when young and in good condi- 
tion, are considered choicer eating them the tame ones. 

VEGETABLES AND ERUITS. 

These should be selected with reference to their perfect sound- 
ness and full maturity. No food supply is more important in 
its relation to health and vigor. The acids and various salts 
they furnish help materially to keep us in good condition. In 
summer, when they chiefly abound, they are both cooling and 
stimulating in just the right degree. Their actual value is hardly 
appreciated until, being deprived of them, as on long sea voy- 
ages, in miner's camps, or on the frontier, health fails, skin dis- 
eases of various kinds make their appearance, and the whole 
system suffers. 

At the same time probably more illness, especially in hot 
weather, is due to eating unripe or partly decayed fruit and veg- 
etables, than from any other source. If chosen with care and 
judgment, if sound, ripe, and fresh, they are invaluable. If 
bought at random, unripe, tough, decaying, and wilted, they are 
absolutely dangerous. 



OHAPTEE TI. 




BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

^READ is one of the most important of foods. Its com- 
mon use proves its value, and teaches us how necessary it 
is that it should be well made, and consequently sweet 
and nutritious. The waste in badly baked, sour, and 
indigestible bread is enormous. She is a true philanthropist 
who helps to reduce it in any appreciable quantity. The waste 
of raw material in this direction is but a fragment of the general 
loss. The actual diminution in working power in those who 
consume bad food is the important element to be considered. 
This can scarcely be computed. Indigestion affects mind as well 
as body. It undermines both intellectual force and physical 
vigor, and, as upon the combination' of these two depends the 
advancement of the world in any direction, religious, social, 
political, or commercial, some notion can be gained as to the 
responsibility of those who prepare food. Not until the relations 
of food to progress are clearly understood and recognized, can 
the importance of good cooking be fully appreciated. To be 
well fed in the best sense of the word, means to be thoroughly 
equipped for the day's work, to be nourished in every part of the 
body, to be built up, strengthened, invigorated, cheered, stimu- 
lated, energized, ready for every task. With a stomach full 
of indigestible and unfit food, urging every physical force to 
help in disposing of it, no man can do his best, and the world 
is a loser by just so much as he falls short of this. Every 
time, therefore, that you make bad bread you defraud yourself 
and your family of a certain amount of actual force. Be too 
conscientious and too honest to join those who through ignorance 
or carelessness are daily hindering instead of helping human- 
ity on. 

Bread can only be made from flour having gluten in such pro- 
portion and of such quality as to make it capable of complete 

61 



62 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

vesciculation. The flour from wlieat meets these requirements 
better than any other grain. The quality of the gluten con- 
tained in Indian meal, for instance, is not suitable to such ves- 
ciculation. This is the case, indeed, with almost every variety 
of flour except wheat and rye. By vesciculation is meant the 
diffusion of small bubbles of carbonic acid gas or air throughout 
the dough. These bubbles are retained by the toughness and 
elasticity of the gluten, which forms little sacks or vescicles from 
which they cannot readily escape. When the dough is suffi- 
ciently swollen or distended, it is baked and the cells fixed by 
heat, and the result is our light bread. 

How shall we raise or vesciculate our bread with the least 
waste? There are three methods. In one the carbonic acid is 
generated chemically within the sponge. In the second it is in- 
troduced from without physically. 

In the first, as a result of the chemical action of the yeast 
plant, whereby it appropriates the starch of the flour and sets 
free carbonic acid, we have left a small amount of broken down 
and partly decayed material which, of course, is not wholesome 
food. The amount is so small, when the vesciculation is carried 
just to the proper point, as to be generally considered harmless, 
but if it goes too far the bread becomes sour, and the longer it 
continues after this the greater the amount of putrified material 
consumed when such bread is eaten. The immense importance 
of arresting the vesciculation at the right time may be seen 
from this. 

When by the second process, the gas is introduced into the 
dough by physical means solely, being prepared outside of the 
sponge, and forced into it under great pressure, no such waste is 
possible, and the so-called aerated bread is therefore freest from 
impurities and the most wholesome. This method of raising 
bread is, however, impracticable for the housekeeper, since the 
machinery needed is both too complicated and too expensive for 
ordinary use. 

Air may, however, be introduced into dough and then ex- 
panded by heat, as in the pulled or beaten bread of the Maryland 
housewife. Dough, mixed with very cold water, and pulled, and 
stretched and beaten in a cold place, becomes filled with bubble 
of air which are retained by the gluten. Such dough put into 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 63 

a heated oven will swell and rise by tlie expansion of the con- 
fined air from the action of the heat, and will when baked make 
sweet and wholesome bread. This method is expensive too, of 
time and muscle, but has been practiced largely in the south, 
where help was cheap and abundant. A valuable hint can be 
gained from it however, and I look confidently forward to the 
time when some shrewd Yankee will act upon it, and invent a 
simple and economic machine for pulling the dough, thus bring- 
ing this sort of bread within the reach of the busiest woman. 

The action of baking powders, soda, etc., all bring about the 
same result, the introduction of gas into dough, whereby it is 
vesciculated and made ready to bake, and all are injurious if not 
judiciously used. 

To insure good bread the following things must be carefully 
attended to: 

The flour must bo made from good grain, must not be musty, 
must contain the proper proportion and the right kind of gluten. 
Dr. Kedzie, of the Michigan Agricultural College, has invented 
a simple and inexpensive method for determining the quantity 
of the gluten in flour, which I hope he will soon give to the 
world in such shape as to be available in every home. 

The yeast should be sweet and active. 

The dough should be thoroughly kneaded so as to distribute 
the yeast evenly throughout the mass and to make the gluten 
firmer and tougher. 

Enough salt should be added to the sponge to make the bread 
palatable, to toughen the gluten aad whiten the loaf. 

It should be baked in separate loaves so that the heat will 
reach the center of the loaf in all directions equally, and the 
temperature of the oven should be so regulated that the crust 
will be light colored and tender. To effect this the loaves should 
be small, weighing, when baked, not more than one or one and 
one-half pounds. 

The ideal proportions for bread, when all the conditions are 
perfect are: One quart of flour, one-fourth of a quart of water, 
one-fourth of a cup of yeast, one-fourth of a tablespoonful of 
sugar, and one-fourth of a tablespoonful of salt. 

Alum is added to flour to strengthen the gluten and thereby 
make it capable of retaining a great deal of water, the baker 



64 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

making so much clear profit when he can sell water at the price 
of bread. The reasons why bread will retain so much water are 
thus given by Prof. Johnston in his "Chemistry of Common 
Lifef "During the baking a portion of the starch is converted 
into a kind of guiii called dextrine, which is known to hold water 
stronger than the starch does; the gluten of the flour, if it once 
becomes thoroughly wet, is very difficult to dry again, and it 
forms a tenacious coat round every little hollow cell in the 
bread, which coating does not readily allow the gas contained in 
the cell to escape, or the water to dry up and pass off in vapor. 
The dry crust which forms round the bread in baking is nearly 
impervious to water, and like the skin of a potato which we bake 
in the oven or in the hot cinders, prevents the moisture from 
escaping." Alum will also toughen the gluten of poor flour so 
as to make it better capable of vesciculation, and by preventing 
the discoloration of such gluten by heat make the loaf whiter. 

Sulphate of copper has a similar effect and is much more' inju- 
rious to the consumer than alum. 

The addition of a small quantity of potato can scarcely be 
called an adulteration. The starch of the potato is eagerly ap- 
propriated by the yeast plant and the sponge is rendered more 
active and lively when it is present. It does become an adulter- 
ation, however, when added in such quantity as to make the po- 
tato in an appreciable manner a substitute for the flour. 

Rice flour is often added to make the bread white and fine 
grained, and though not actually injurious as alum and copper 
are, makes the bread less nutritious by increasing the proportion 
of starch to gluten and the other nitrogenous elements of the 
flour. 

Shall we eat brown bread, or bread made from flour contain- 
ing the bran or outside coverings of the grain, or white bread 
made from flour containing largely the kernels of the grain? 
There are several sides to this question as to every other. While 
the bran contains much that is nutritious, its outside covering is 
largely composed of silica and is almost, if not entirely indigestible. 
If not separated from the inner coatings, which contain certain 
valuable nutritive material, such as gluten and cerealine, it acts as 
an irritant, hurrying the food along the alimentary canal, and 
does not, therefore, allow sufficient time for the absorption of 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 65 

such nutritive material. It consequently causes waste, and while 
it may supply the place of medicine to such as need a laxative, 
it cannot be called an economical food for those who engage in 
active work. Physical exercise will, in most cases, act as a suffi- 
ciently strong stimulant to digestion, and the laboring man or 
woman needs condensed, not laxative food. 

Brown bread, made from whole meal, is therefore a luxury, to 
be indulged in by the rich, and is too wasteful a food for the 
poor. 

YEAST. 

English recipe, in which the food is prepared for the yeast 
plant, and time allowed for it to germinate and increase, no plant 
being introduced to hasten the operation. If the directions are 
carefully followed, sweet, strong yeast will be obtained. The 
conditions being right, success is certain. 

Ingredients. — Two ounces of hops; four quarts of water; one 
pound of flour; three pounds of potatoes; two table-spoonfuls of 
salt; one-half pound brown sugar. 

Time to boil, half an hour; to make, four days. 

First day — Boil two ounces of hops in four quarts of water 
for half an hour; strain it, and allow to stand until lukewarm, 
then add the salt and sugar; add this gradually to the pound of 
flour making a smooth batter. 

Third day — Boil and mash the potatoes, and add to the mix- 
ture. 

Fourth day — Strain and bottle for use. 

It must be stirred frequently while it is making, and kept near 
the fire. It should be mixed and left to ferment in an earthen 
jar. Keep in a cool, dry place. The bottles must be kept tightly 
corked. 

POTATO YEAST. 

Ingredients. — Four potatoes, one quart of boiling water, one 
tea-spoonful of salt, one-half cupful of brown sugar, one-half 
cupful of good yeast. 

Pare the potatoes and boil till tender; press them through a 
colander with one quart of boiling water; add the salt and sugar, 
and when lukewarm, stir in the yeast. It will rise in five or six 
hours if set in a warm place. 
5 



66 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

HOP YEAST. 

(From the Appledore Cook Book.) 

"Pare and boil one dozen mealy potatoes; as soon as you put 
the potatoes on to boil, put a handful of hops into another ket- 
tle containing three quarts of cold water; cover and boil. When 
the potatoes are boiled, drain and mash fine ; then strain the hops 
through a fine sieve on the potatoes, and be sure the hops are 
boiling; stir well. Then add one-half a cup of sugar, one-fourth 
of salt, and one pint of flour; mix this well and strain through a 
colander; let it stand until it is milk- warm and then stir in one 
cup of good yeast; set it to rise where it will be warm. It will 
rise in about five hours if the yeast is good. You can tell when 
it is risen by the white foam which will rise to the top. When 
risen pour in a stone jug, cork tightly, and keep in a cool place." 

Both these receipts are " never-failing " if directions are care- 
fully followed and the ingredients are good. In summer it is, 
perhaps, easier to use the j^otato yeast., making it fresh every 
week. 

YEAST BREAD. 

To be set in the morning and baked early in the afternoon. 
An excellent receipt for summer. 

Ingredients. — Four good-sized potatoes, one quart of boiling 
water, one cup of yeast, one table-spoonful of sugar, one table- 
spoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of lard, about four quarts of 
flour. 

Take four good sized potatoes, pare, boil and mash and pour 
over them one quart of actually hoiling water; strain the whole 
through a colander. Let this get lukewarm and then stir in one 
cup of yeast, one table-spoonful of sugar, one table-spoonful of 
salt, and enough flour to make as stifi" a dough as you can 
beat thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Now beat vigorously 
until sure that the yeast is evenly distributed throughout 
the entire mixture, and set in a warm place to rise. If the 
yeast is good it will rise in from four to five hours. When 
well risen, add enough flour so that it can be kneaded with- 
out sticking. Turn out on a kneading board and rub in one 
table-spoonful of lard ; knead for at least twenty minutes. Let 
all the movements be light and quick. It requires skill rather 



BEEAD AND BBEAKFTST CAKES. 67 

than muscle. Add as little flour as possible while kneading. 
Now put the dough into the pan again and let it rise one hour, 
and then form into loaves. This quantity will make eight small, 
brick-shaped loaves. Let the loaves rise until light, about three- 
quarters of an hour, and bake three-quarters of an hour. 

YEAST BREAD. 

To be set at night and baked in the morning. 

Ingredients. — Four quarts of flour, one quart luke warm water, 
one cup of yeast, one table-spoonful of salt. 

Put the flour in a bread pan, make a well in the center, into 
which pour the yeast; mix in gradually and thoroughly the quart 
of warm water, stirring down the flour from the sides of the 
pan, but using only enough to make a moderately thick batter; 
beat this well, sprinkle flour over the top, cover and put in a 
warm place to rise. In the morning it should be very light and 
foamy. Add the salt and stir in the remainder of the flour. It 
may be necessary to add a little more flour to prevent the bread 
from sticking, but if the flour is first class four quarts will be 
quite enough. Knead for half an hour and leave to rise. When 
light mould into loaves and bake. This will also make eight 
loaves and they will bake in three-quarters of an hour. 

BREAKFAST ROLLS. 
(National Training School of Cookery, South Kensington, London.) 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one-half ounce of German 
yeast, or one large table-spoonful of home-made yeast, one ounce 
of butter, one-half tea-spoonful of salt, one-half tea-spoonful of 
sugar, one egg.^ one-half pint of lukewarm milk. 

Mix the above ingredients thoroughly together and set in a 
warm place to rise. When light knead down and set to rise 
again. Form into rolls and leave until light. Bake half an 
hour. As soon as they come from the oven glaze with a little 
warm milk in which a small quantity of butter has been melted. 

Whenever the German compressed yeast is used it should be 
worked into a smooth cream with a small quantity, say a tea- 
spoonful to an ounce, of white sugar, before it is mixed with the 
other ingredients. 



68 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

GALETTES. 

(National Training School of Coolcerij.) 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one-half ounce German 
compressed yeast, or one generous table-spoonful of home-made 
yeast, one tea-spoonful of sugar, one-third of a tea-spoonful of 
salt; one and one-half gills of sweet milk mixed with the yeast, 
four ounces of butter, three eggs. 

Mix one-half pound of the flour with the yeast, milk, sugar, 
and salt; beat thoroughly and set in a warm place to rise. When 
light add the remaining half pound of flour, the butter and the 
eggs. Beat well and set to rise again. When light form into 
round cakes, handling the dough as lightly as possible. Set to 
rise again, and then bake iif teen minutes in a hot oven. Beat a 
dessert spoonful of sugar with one egg. When the galettes are 
baked and while still very hot, brush them over with this mixture. 

These are the most delicate and delicious tea cakes imaginable. 
They are to be eaten hot, or they are allowed to cool and are then 
split open and toasted on the inside. 

ENGLISH BUNS. 

Ingredients. — One and three-fourths pounds of flour, one 
ounce of German compressed yeast, one pint of milk, one-fourth 
of a pound of butter, two eggs, one-fourth of a pound of sugar, 
one-fourth of a pound of sultanas, two ounces candied peel 
(orange, lemon, and citron). 

Mix together one-half pound of the flour, the ounce of yeast 
and the pint of milk; beat well and set to rise. When light mix 
in the remainder of the flour and the other ingredients and set 
to rise again. When sufficiently risen the second time form into 
buns, or round biscuits, and when these are light bake flfteen or 
twenty minutes in a moderately hot oven. Glaze while hot with 
a mixture made by heating one dessert spoonful of sugar with 
one egg. 

BROWN BEE AD. 

Ingredients. — One quart of sweet milk, two quarts of Indian 
meal, one pint of Graham flour, one tea-spoonful of saleratus, 
three-fourths of a cupful of molasses. 

Mix together the Indian meal, Graham flour, milk, and molas- 
ses; dissolve the saleratus perfectly in one-fourth of a cupful of 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 69 

boiling water; beat thoroughly into the mixture, pour into brown 
bread tins and steam two and one-half hours, and then bake 
one-half hour. 

BROWN BREAD. 

Ingredients. — Three pints of sour milk, one cupful of molasses, 
one table-spoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of soda, five cup- 
fuls of wheat or rye flour, five cupf uls of Indian meal. 

Dissolve the soda in the sour milk and mix with the other 
ingredients. Bake three hours in a moderate oven. 

BROWK BREAD. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of flour, three cups of corn meal, one 
cup of molasses, one table-spoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of 
soda. 

Mix the soda and molasses thoroughly together; add the other 
ingredients and make into a stiff batter with cold water. Steam 
three hours, and bake one-half hour. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

{Miss Parloa.) 

Ingredients. — One pint of water or milk, one pint of flour, one 
large pint of Graham, half a cup of sugar, half a cup of yeast, 
one tea-spoonful of salt. 

Have the milk or water blood-warm; add the yeast to it. 
Have the flour sifted in a deep dish; add yeast and milk gradu- 
ally to the flour, beating until perfectly smooth ; set in a rather 
cool place to rise over night. In the morning add the salt, 
sugar, and then the Graham, a little at a time, beating vigorously 
all the while. When thoroughly beaten, turn into two bread 
pans, and let it rise one hour. Bake one hour. 

Muffins. — Graham muffins are made the same as the bread. 
Fill tin muffin cups two-thirds full and let the mixture rise to 
the top of the cups; then bake in a rather quick oven twenty 
minutes. 

CORN BREAD OR JOHNNY CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pint of sweet milk, one pint of Indian meal, 
one pint of flour, two eggs, one-half cup of sugar, one table- 
spoonful of melted butter, two table-spoonfuls of baking powder. 



70 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

Sift the Indian meal, flour and baking powder together; add 
the sugar, melted butter and eggs, and mix with the milk. 
Bake either in loaves, in gem-irons, or in muffin rings. 

CORN MEAL BEEAD. 

Ingredients. — One pint of corn meal, one table-spoonful of 
butter, one table-spoonful of yeast, two eggs, sweet milk to make 
a batter. 

Rub the butter into the corn meal ; add the two eggs and make 
into a batter with sweet milk; add the yeast and set by the fire 
one hour to rise. Bake in gem-irons. 

LIGHT BISCUIT. 

Ingredients. — One quart of sweet milk, one-half cup of good 
hop yeast, two-thirds of a cup of shortening (nice, sweet drip- 
pings, butter, or half butter and half lard), two table-spoonfuls 
of sugar, one tea-spoonful of salt, flour. 

Boil the milk; when lukewarm mix with flour to form a thick 
sponge, add the yeast, and beat twenty minutes. Let it rise four 
or five hours; then add the shortening, sugar, and salt, stirring 
in flour with a wooden spoon, until the dough cleaves from the 
spoon. Roll out to an inch or a little less in thickness; mold 
into biscuit, and let them stand in a warm place till thoroughly 
light. Bake in a quick oven. 

PAEKER HOUSE ROLLS. 

Scald a generous pint of milk; let it stand till lukewarm; take 
two quarts of flour and rub into it a table-spoonful of lard or 
butter, make a hole in the center and add one-half tea-cupful of 
yeast, a tea-spoonful of sugar, one of salt, and the milk, and 
cover with the flour. Do not beat much. Let it stand until 
morning, or if mixed in the morning, until afternoon, then work 
smooth about fifteen minutes. When light roll out and cut 
with a large biscuit cutter; rub over the tops with a little melted 
butter, and lap over like a turnover. Then let them rise, and 
when light bake in a rather quick oven twenty minutes. 

SODA AND CREAM TARTAR BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — One quart of flour, one heaping table-spoonful 
of butter or lard, one salt-spoonful of salt, one tea-spoonful of 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 71 

soda, two tea-spooufuls of cream tartar, sweet milk or cold water 
nearly two cups. 

Let all the ingredients be as cold as possible. Sift soda and 
cream tartar with the flour several times, so the soda and cream 
tartar will be evenly and thoroughly distributed. Rub in the 
shortening as expeditiously as possible and then quickly add the 
milk or water. These, and all biscuits raised with baking pow- 
der, should be mixed just as soft as it is possible to handle them. 
Roll from half to three-quarters of an inch thick and bake at 
once in a quick oven. Success depends in great measure on 
quickness. 

BAKIKG POWDER BISCUITS. 

These are made exactly like the soda and cream tartar biscuits, 
substituting three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder for the soda 
and cream tartar. 

RAISED MUFFIKS. 

Ingredients. — One quart of flour, one pint of milk, one-half 
cup of yeast, two eggs, one tea-spoonful of salt, two table-spoon- 
fuls of butter. 

Mix the flour, milk, yeast, and salt together over night. Let 
stand until morning to rise; add the eggs and the butter and 
bake in muffin rings. 

BAKING POWDER MUEFINS. 

(Mrs. Henderson.) 

Ingredients. — Two eggs, one pint of flour, one tea-cupful of 
milk or cream, butter half the size of an egg, a little salt, and 
one tea-spoonful of baking powder. 

Mix the baking powder and salt in the flour. Beat the eggs; 
add to the yolks, first, milk, then butter (melted), then flour, 
then whites. Beat well after it is all mixed, and bake them 
immediately in a hot oven, in gem pans or muffin rings. Take 
them out of the pans or rings the moment they are done and 
send to the table. 

SALLY LUN'K 

Ingredients. — One cup of butter, two table-spoonsful of sugar, 
two eggs, one pint of sweet milk, one tea-spoonful of soda, two 



72 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, one quart of flour, and a sait-spoon- 
ful of salt. 

Sift the flour, cream tartar, soda, and salt together. Blend the 
butter and sugar, add the eggs, then the flour and milk alter- 
nately until ail of both is used. Bake in a rather quick oven. 

BREAKFAST CAKES. 

Ingredients, — One quart of flour, one table-spoonful of baking 
powder rubbed in the flour, two eggs, one table-spoonful of butter, 
one table-spoonful of sugar, flour to make a thin batter. Bake 
in gem irons well heated. 

POP OVERS. 
Ingredients. — Four eggs, four cups of flour, two cups of milk, 
butter the size of an eg^. Bake in patty pans in a hot oven. 

SCONES. 
English Recipe. 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one-half pint of milk, three 
ounces of butter, one-half ounce of cream tartar, one-fourth of 
an ounce of soda, one ounce of sugar. A few raisins, split and 
seeded, or a few sultanas. 

Sift the cream tartar, soda, and sugar with the flour; rub in 
the butter; add the raisins, and then blend the whole together 
with the milk. Form the dough into triangular pieces about an 
inch thick. Bake in a quick oven. They can be eaten warm, or 
allowed to cool and then be split open and toasted. 

WAFFLES. 

Ingredients. — Two eggs, one pint of flour, one and one-fourth 
cupfuls of milk, one tea-spoonful of baking powder, one dessert- 
spoonful of butter, one salt-spoonful of salt. 

Sift the baking powder, salt and flour together; blend these 
with the milk, then add the beaten yolks of the eggs, and the 
butter melted; lastly, mix lightly in the well beaten whites. 
They should be baked immediately after the whites are added. 

RICE WAFFLES. 
Ingredients. — One cup of boiled rice, one pint of milk, two 
eggs, one tea-spoonful of salt, one tea-spoonful of lard or butter, 
one-half tea-spoonful of soda, one tea-spoonful of cream tartar, 
flour to make a thin batter. 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 73 

RICE WAFFLES. 
(Mrs. Henderson.) 

Ingredients. — One and one-half pints of boiled rice, one and 
one-half pints of flour, half a tea-cupful of sour milk, half a tea- 
cupful of sweet milk, one tea-spoonful of soda, three eggs, and 
butter the size of a walnut. 

EICE PANCAKES. 

are made as in the last receipt, by adding an extra half cupful of 
milk. 

FLOUR GRIDDLE CAKES. 

To every pint of sour milk allow one tea-spoonful of soda, two 
eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, and flour enough to 
make a thin batter. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 
Three Receipts from The Home Messenger Receipt Book. 

No. 1. One pint of buckwheat, half pint of sifted corn meal, 
two level tea-spoonfuls of salt, four table-spoonfuls of yeast, one 
and a half pipts of lukewarm water, or one pint of water and one 
cup of milk. Beat well and set to rise over night. 

No. 2. One pint cup of verj'- flne oatmeal, set to soak in the 
morning with one quart of water, into which two table-spoonfuls 
of yeast have been stirred. At night add one quart of buckwheat 
flour, and one quart of water, and three tea-spoonfuls of salt; 
beat well and let rise until morning. 

No. 3. One pint of buckwheat flour, three table-spoonfuls of 
yeast. One quart of lukewarm water. Stir well and let rise till 
morning. 

If your cakes sour, add just before baking a half tea-spoonful 
of soda dissolved in a quarter of a tea-cupful of boiling water. 

BREAD CRUMB CAKES. 

Soak the bread crumbs in sweet milk over night. In the 
morning press them through the colander. To two tea-cupf uls 
of bread crumbs add two eggs, one cupful of flour or corn meal, 
and sour milk enough to make a thin batter. Dissolve half a 
tea-spoonful of soda in the sour milk before mixing. 



OHAPTEE VII. 




CAKE. 

^HE subjoined directions for mixing cake must be carefully 
followed when the receipts in this chapter are used, ex- 
cept when specific instructions as to methods are 
appended to particular receipts. The ingredients com- 
posing the different cakes will be given, and then it will be taken 
for granted that they will be compounded according to instruc- 
tions. 

The first step to be taken in preparing to bake is to get every- 
thing that will be needed ready before the mixing begins. The 
pans should be lined with paper and greased, bowls, spoons, egg- 
beater, sifted flour, weighed or measured, ready for use; milk, 
eggs, etc., should be right at hand. The oven, too, should be at 
the proper temperature and all things so arranged, that when 
once the eggs are broken and the mixing has actually begun, 
nothing need interrupt or delay proceedings until the process is 
complete and the cake in the oven. Flour should be sifted before 
it is measured unless the contrary is expressly advised; if baking 
powder is to be used that should be sifted with the flour; soda 
and cream tartar should both be added dry to the flour and per- 
fectly distributed through it by several sif tings; cups or meas- 
ures should not be heaped. When all things are ready the order 
of mixing is, in general, as follows: 

1. Cream the butter. 

2. Mix gradually with it the sugar and blend both together 
until they make a smooth, light pa.ste. 

3. The beaten yolks of the eggs are next added. 

4. Stir in a little flour, then a part of the milk, then flour, 
then milk, until all the milk has been added. This process should 
use at least half the flour. 

75 



76 CAKE. 

5. The flavoring extract, if any is used, should go in next. 

6. Sift iu gradually a part of the remaining flour, add the 
whites of the eggs, well beaten, and at the same time the re- 
mainder of the flour. 

7. All cake should be put at first into a moderate oven so it 
may have a chance to rise before the crust begins to form. 
Otherwise the batter will burst through and make an ill-shaped 
loaf. It cannot be so light and tender if part of it bakes before 
it is wholly risen, and part of it bakes after it has risen. 

MEASURES. 

The ordinary stone china tea-cup is used for measuring unless 
cofiee-cup is mentioned. I append here the three tables of 
weights and measures most used in household afi'airs, for easy 
reference. 

AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 

27 11 Grains =1 Dram (dr.) 
16 Drams =1 Ounce (oz.) 
10 Ounces =1 Pound (lb.) 
25 Pounds =1 Quarter (qr.) 
4 Quarters =1 Hundred weight (cwt.) 
20 Hundred weight=l Ton. 

LIQUID MEASURE. 

4 Gills =1 Pint (pt.) 
2 Pints =1 Quart (qt.) 
4 Quarts=l Gallon (gal.) 

DRY MEASURE. 

8 Quarts =1 Peck (pk.) 
4 Pecks =1 Bushel (bu.) 
8 Bushels=l Quarter (qr.) 

The following are approximate substitutions of measures for 
weights. They are correct enough for all ordinary purposes. 
They are compiled from various sources. 

Ten eggs are equal to one pound. 

One quart of sifted flour equals one pound. 

Two cups of butter packed are one pound. 

One pint of granulated sugar is one pound. 

Sixteen table-spoonfuls are half a pint. 

Eight table-spoonfuls are one gill. 

A common sized tumbler holds half a pint. 

Four tea-cupfuls of liquid equal one quart. 



CAKE. 77 

In the following receipts for cake it will be noticed that soda 
and cream tartar are largely used in place of baking powder. 
Baking powder can, however, always be substituted, using one 
table-spoonful of baking powder for one tea-spoonful of soda 
and two of cream tartar. 

Many of the old-fashioned but excellent receipts for cake con- 
tain wine or brandy. I have given them as they have been 
handed down to me, and can vouch for their quality. The 
amount of liquor used is so small as to give no decided flavor. 
Indeed its presence would never be suspected. In a rich cake it 
acts as a preservative, and it also makes the cake less indigest- 
ible. If any one has scruples as to its use in these small quan- 
tities, cold water or milk can be substituted. 

WEDDING CAIvE. 

Ifigredients. — Three pounds of butter, three and one-half 
pounds of sugar, three pounds of flour, one pound of citron, 
thirty-six eggs, nine pounds of currants, six pounds of raisins, 
one ounce of cloves, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of nut- 
megs, one gill of brandy, one gill of wine. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, two pounds of sugar, two 
pounds of butter, six pounds of stoned raisins, three pounds of 
currants, one pound of citron, fifteen eggs, four nutmegs, one 
wine-glass of brandy, a variety of spices if liked ; a slow oven. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, three- 
fourths of a pound of butter, two pounds of seedless raisins, two 
pounds of currants, one pound of citron, one-fourth of a pound 
of almonds, one-half an ounce of mace, one tea-spoonful of rose 
water, one wine-glass of brandy or wine, ten eggs. 

ERUIT CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Fifteen eggs, one and one-half pounds of butter, 
jne and one-half pounds of sugar, one and one-half pounds of 
flour, two pounds of seeded raisins, two pounds of currants, one 
dnd one-half pounds candied peel (citron, lemon, orange), one 
pound of sliced figs, one pound of blanched almonds sliced, a 



78 CAKE. 

half pint of molasses, one ounce of ground mace, and one ounce 
of cinnamon. 

This is my favorite fruit cake and it always gives satisfaction. 
[t keeps well, looks well, and tastes good. 

BLACK CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, three- 
fourths of a pound of butter, five eggs, one gill of cream, one 
tea-spoonful of soda, one gill of wine, two pounds of fruit, one 
ounce of cloves, one ounce of cinnamon. 

republica:n' cake. 

Ingredients. — One pound of sugar, one-half pound of butter, 
one pound of flour, four eggs beaten separately, one cup of sweet 
milk, table-spoonful of baking powder, raisins, wine-glass of 
wine or brandy, one nutmeg. 

COMPOSITION CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Six eggs, beaten separately, three cups of sugar, 
two cups of butter, one pound of fruit, six cups of flour, one 
cup of sweet milk, one nutmeg, one glass of brandy or wine, one 
tea-spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar or one 
table-spoonful of baking powder. 

DARIOLES A LA DUCHESSE. 

(French Receipt.) 

Thoroughly mix four ounces of flour with the yolk and white 
of one egg; add the yolks only of three eggs besides; one ounce of 
powdered sugar, four macaroons thoroughly crushed, and another 
whole egg. These ingredients should be added to each other 
singly, and when thoroughly mixed stir in a tea-cupful of cream, 
a half tea-spoonful of vanilla essence, a pinch of angelica, minced 
very fine, and a little mixed preserved fpuit. Pour this mixture 
into buttered moulds and bake in a quick oven. 

Citron can be used in place of angelica if that is difficult to 
procure. 

FANCY NUT CAKES. 

Ingredients. — Two-thirds of a cup of butter, two cups of 
sugar, one cup of milk, three eggs, three cups of flour, three tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder, one cup of nuts. 



CAKE. 



79 



Bake in shallow tins about two inches thick, cut in squares, 
frost and put walnut meat on each piece. 

DOUGH CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of bread dough, one heaping cup of 
sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup of raisins, one-half of a 
nutmeg. 

BREAD CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Four cups of light bread dough, two cups of 
sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of cream, four eggs, one glass 
of brandy, a handful of flour, or sufficient flour to make a rather 
stiff dough. 

POUND CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of butter, one pound of sugar, one 
pound of flour, ten eggs, beaten well, grated rind of one lemon, 
one glass of wine. 

SOUTHERN POUND CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one pound of eggs, one 
pound of sugar, three-fourths of a pound of butter, one glass of 
brandy, one nutmeg, one tea-spoonful of mace. 

Cream half the flour with the butter, and add the brandy and 
spice. Beat the j^olks until very light, add the sugar, then the 
beaten whites and the rest of the flour alternately. Put all to- 
gether and beat steadily half an hour. This is a splendid cake. 

POUND CAKE. 

From "75." 

Ingredients. — One pound of butter, one pound of flour, nine 
eggs leaving out two yolks, grated peel of one lemon. 

Beat the whites to a stiff froth and the butter to a cream; add 
the sugar and the yolks, and beat till very light; then the flour 
and whites of eggs alternately. Bake in a moderate oven. 

FIG CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of sugar, three-fourths of a cup of 
butter, one-half cup of sweet milk, yolks of seven eggs and one 
whole egg beaten together, one and three-fourths cups of flour, 



80 



CAKE. 



one and one-half tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, one pound o£ 

figs- 
Pour half of the batter into the tin and lay on one pound of 
halved figs; sift lightly with flour; pour on the rest of the batter 
and bake in a moderate oven. 

FIG CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of butter, one cup of brown sugar, one 
pint of molasses, one and one-half cups of sour milk, one small 
table-spoonful of soda, three eggs, one wine-glass of brandy or 
whiskey, one cup of chopped raisins, a little citron, spices of all 
kinds, one pound of figs. 

Stir it about as stiff with flour as for a pound cake. Fill the 
layer cake tins, and have the figs cut in thin slices and strew 
them through the cake. Alternate a layer of this dark mixture 
with a layer of any white or silver cake, after it is baked, and 
put them together with a little icing, so that they will not sepa- 
rate. 

A GOOD WHITE CAKE, FOR THE FIG CAKE. 

Ingredients. — The whites of four eggs, two cups of sugar, one 
cup of sweet milk, four cups of flour, two tea-spoonfuls of baking 
powder mixed with the flour. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two and one-half cups of sugar, one cup of 
butter, one cup of milk, six eggs (save out the whites of two), 
four cups of flour, four tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Icing. — One-third of a cake of chocolate set to melt on the 
back part of the stove, whites of four eggs, sugar enough to 
make a stiff icing. Flavor with vanilla. Bake in a baking sheet 
about one inch thick, put the icing on as thickly as possible and 
cut it in squares. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

Ingredients — White part. — Two cups of sugar, two-thirds of 
a cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, three cups of flour, two 
tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, whites of seven eggs. 

Dark part. — The same as the white, with seven yolks and one 
cup of grated chocolate. 



CAKE. 81 

Bake in layers and put together with the white of eggs, alter- 
nating a white layer with a dark one. Frost with chocolate 
icing. 

COCOANUT CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two*cups of sugar, one cup of butterff oar eggs, 
one cup of milk, one tea-spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of 
cream tartar, four cups of flour. 

Bake in layers, then take the whites of three eggs and make 
icing as for icing cake;, grate into it as much cocoanut as it will 
take and spread between the layers of cake. Ice on the top and 
grate on as much cocoanut as will lie smoothly. This receipt 
makes one large cake. 

COCOAJTUT CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Whites of six eggs, one and one-half cups of 
sugar, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup of water, one and one- 
half cups of flour, one-half cup of corn-starch, one-half tea-spoon- 
ful of soda, one tea-spoonful of cream tartar. 

Bake in three round tins; then take the whites of three eggs, 
beat to a froth, six table-spoonfuls of sugar, one cup of grated 
cocoanut; mix together and frost. 

CORX STARCH CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Whites of eight eggs, two cups of sugar, one cup 
of butter, one-half cup of milk, one tea-spoonful of cream tartar, 
one-half tea-spoonful of soda, one and one-half cups of corn 
starch, one and one-half cups of flour. 

CORK STARCH CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, two cups 
of flour, one cup of corn starch, one cup of sweet milk, two 
tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, one tea-spoonful of soda, whites of 
seven eggs. 

C0RI!T STARCH CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, one-half cup 

of butter, one-half cup of corn starch dissolved in one-half cup 

of sweet milk, whites of four sggs, one-half tea-spoonful of soda, 

one tea-spoonful of cream tartar, one tea-spoonful of lemon juice. 

6 



82 CAKE. 

LEMOK CAKE. 
Ingredients. — Three cups of wliite sugar, one cup of butter, 
one cup of sweet milk, four cups of flour, five eggs, full tea- 
spoonful of baking powder, juice and grated peel of one lemon. 

LEMOX CAKE. 
Ingredients. — Three teacups of sugar, one cup of butter, one 
cup of milk, five cups of sifted flour, five eggs, one tea-spoonful 
of soda, one tea-spoonful of cream tartar, grated peel of two lem- 
ons and the juice of one and one-half. 

SILVER CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of sugar, three-fourths of a pound of 
sifted flour, six ounces of butter, the whites of fourteen eggs, 
mace, and citron, if you like. 

WHITE CAKE. 
Ingredients. — One and one-half cups of sugar, two-thirds of a 
cup of butter, two-thirds of a cup of sweet milk, one tea-spoonful 
of cream tartar, one-half tea-spoonful of soda, whites of four 
eggs, two cups of flour. 

DELICATE CAKE. 
Ingredients. — Whites of ten eggs, three cups of sugar, four 
cups of flour, one cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, one tea- 
spoonful cream tartar, one-half tea-spoonful of soda. 

DELICATE CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Whites of seven eggs, two cups of sugar, one 
cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, three and one-half even 
cups of flour, two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

DELICATE CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of sugar, one-half pound of butter, 
one pound of flour, the whites of sixteen eggs well beaten. 

DELICATE CAKE. 

(Mrs. Henderson.) 
I copy this cake exactly — I have tried it many times and 
always with success. Mrs. Henderson says: 

"I venture to say there is not to be found a better receipt for 



OAKE. 83 

white cake than the following. The cake is mixed contrary to 
the usual rules for making cake, but it is the best mode for 
making it fine-grained and delicate. 

Ingredients. — Whites of six eggs, scant three-quarters of a 
cupful of butter, one and one-quarter cupfuls of pulverized 
sugar, two cupfuls of flour, juice of half a lemon, one-quarter of 
a tea-spoonful of soda. 

If soda is used mix it well with the flour, and pass it through 
the sieve several times to distribute it equally. Beat the butter 
to a light cream, and add the flour to it, stirring it in gradually 
with the ends of the fingers until it is a smooth paste. Beat the 
whites of the six eggs to a stiff froth, and mix in them the pul- 
verized sugar; now stir the egg and sugar gradually into the flour 
and butter, adding also the lemon juice, and mix it smoothly to- 
gether with the egg-whisk. As soon as it is perfectly smooth 
put it into the oven, the heat of which should be rather moder- 
ate at first. When done cind still hot, spread over it a frosting 
made in the following manner: 

Use a heaping tea-cupful of fine pulverized sugar to the white 
of each eg^, or, say, a pound of sugar to the whites of three eggs. 
Beat the whites until they are slightly foaming only; do not 
beat them to a froth. The sugar may all be poured on the egg 
at once, or if considered easier to mix, it may be gradually added. 
Either way, as soon as the sugar and eggs are thoroughly stirred 
together, and flavored with a little vanilla or lemon, the icing is 
ready to spread over the cake. The icing made with the white 
of one egg is quite suSicient to frost an ordinary sized cake. 

This cake may be made with one tea-spoonful of baking pow- 
der, or with prepared flour, or with one-quarter tea-spoonful of 
soda, and one-half tea-spoonful cream tartar, when the essence of 
lemon should be used instead of the lemon juice." 

WHITE SPONGE CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One tumbler of sugar, one tumbler of flour, 
whites of six eggs, tea-spoonful of baking powder. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, four eggs, 

two table-spoonfuls of wafer, one tea-spoonful of baking powder. 

Mix the yolks of the eggvj and sugar, then add the water, then 



8^ CAKE. 

the whites beaten to a stiff froth. The flour and baking powder 
the last thing. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

Ingredients.. — Twelve eggs, one pound of sugar, one-half 
pound of flour, the rind and juice of two lemons. 

Beat the eggs separately, beat the sugar into the yolks gradu- 
ally and then add the rind of the lemons; next add the whites, 
well beaten, then stir in the flour. Do not beat at all after stir- 
ring in the flour. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

This is the best of the sponge cake receipts. A little more 
knack is required in mixing than in those which contain baking 
powder, but it is altogether superior to them. 

Ingredients. — -'One pound of pulverized sugar, one-half pound 
of sifted flour, ten eggs, the grated rind and juice of one lemon, 
a salt-spoonful of salt. 

Beat both yolks and whites very thoroughly ; blend them 
lightly and quickly together; add the sugar gradually, then the 
lemon juice and rind and salt, and lastly the flour. Do not beat 
it after the flour is added. Bake in a moderate oven. 

FLORENTINE CAKE. 

Bake sponge cake after the preceding receipt in two layers, 
about an inch thick. Spread between them a custard made as 
follows: 

Boil one quart of fresh milk; beat the yolks of four eggs with 
four table-spoonfuls of sugar; when the milk has boiled up once, 
pour it boiling on the beaten eggs, stirring rapidly all the time; 
when well mixed return to the fire. Of three light table-spoon- 
fuls of corn starch make a paste with a little cold milk, which 
stir immediately into the custard on the fire. Let it cook until 
well thickened, stirring all the while. Take off the fire and fla- 
vor while hot with one tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

After the cakes are put together with the custard between, ice 
with the following chocolate icing. 

CHOCOLATE ICLNG. 

/ 
Three table-spoonfuls of chocolate, six table-spoonfuls of white 

sugar, two table-spoonfuls of sweet cream, and a very small piece 



OAKE. 85 

of butter, say half an ounce. Let this icing simmer over the 
fire for a few moments, when it can be immediately applied to 
the cake. Sprinkle granulated sugar over the top while hot. 

This is a delicious chocolate icing for any chocolate cake. The 
amount of custard will do for three cakes — the icing for two. 

IMPERIAL CAKE. 

This is a superb cake and will keep as long as fruit cake. 

Ingredients. — One pound of sugar, one pound of butter, ten 
eggs, grated rind and juice of one lemon, one pound of flour, one 
pound of almonds blanched and split, one-half pound of raisins 
stoned and halved, one-half pound of citron cut in thin slips, 
two table-spoonfuls extra flour for dredging the fruit, one tea- 
spoonful of extract of nectarine in one tea-spoonful of water, and 
one table-spoonful of rose water in one table-spoonful of water. 

QUEEN" CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One large cup of butter, three cups of sugar, 
four cups of flour, one cup of sweet cream, two tea-spoonfuls of 
baking powder, the yolks of seven eggs and the whites of four, 
one tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

GOLD AND SILVER CAKE. 

(Home Messenger Cook Book.) 
A simple but good receipt, making one loaf of each. 
Ingredients. — One-half cup of butter, one cup of sugar, one 

and one-half cups of sifted flour, one-half cup of sweet milk, one 

and one-half tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, whites of four eggs, 

one-half tea-spoonful of vanilla. 
Make the gold cake the same, only substitute the yolks for the 

whites, and lemon for vanilla. 

ANGELS' FOOD. 

Success is certain if the following receipt is carefully followed. 

Ingredients. — Whites of eleven eggs, one and one-half tum- 
blers of granulated sugar, one tumbler of sifted flour, one tea- 
spoonful of extract of vanilla, one tea-spoonful of cream tartar. 

Sift the flour four times, then add cream tartar and sift again, 
but have only one tumbler after sifting. Sift the sugar and 
measure; beat the eggs to a stiff froth, add the sugar lightly, 



86 CAKE. 

then the flour very gently, then vanilla. Do not stop beating 
till ready to put the mixture in the pan. Beat the eggs on a 
large platter, and mix the batter on the same platter. Use a pan 
that has never been greased. A brick-shaped pan made with 
short feet so as to raise it a quarter of an inch or so from the 
bottom of the oven should be kept especially for this cake. Bake 
forty minutes in a moderate oven; try with a straw; if too soft 
let it remain a few moments longer. Do not open the oven door 
for at least ten minutes after the cake has been put in. Turn 
the pans upside down for the cake to cool, and when cold take 
out, first loosening around the sides with a knife. 

ICE CREAM CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of sugar, one cup of sweet milk, 
whites of eight eggs, four cups of flour, one tea-spoonful of baking 
powder. Bake in layers. 

Mixture to spread between layers. — Three cups of sugar, one 
cup of water. Boil to a clear thick syrup, and pour boiling over 
the beaten whites of three eggs. Add a tea-spoonfui of citric 
acid. Flavor with vanilla. 

WHITE MOimTAm CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, one- 
half pound of butter, six eggs, one cup of sweet milk, table- 
spoonful of baking powder. 

Frosting. — One sheet of cooper's isinglass dissolved in a small 
teacup of boiling water. Stir it into two pounds of powdered 
sugar. Flavor both cake and icing with vanilla. Bake the cake 
in layers and put together with this frosting; finally cover the 
whole with the frosting. 

TIPSY CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Sponge cake, handful of almonds, white wine, 
custard. 

Bake a sponge cake in a mold. Blanch a handful of almonds, 
split them into four pieces and stick the cake full of them. Set 
in a deep dish and turn over as much white wine as the cake will 
absorb. Let it stand one hour. Turn in as much soft custard 
as the dish will hold. 



CAKE. 87 

PORK CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of chopped pork dissolved in one 
pint of boiling water, two cups of brown sugar, two cups of mo- 
lasses, «two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of 
cloves, two grated nutmegs, one pound of raisins, one spoonful 
of soda, eight cups of jQour, four eggs. 

KRAPFEN. 

(German Receipt.) 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, three table-spoonfuls of 
yeast, one pint of milk, one-fourth pint of sour cream, two 
ounces of powdered sugar, four eggs, one-half pound of butter, 
salt (sufficient), peel of half a lemon (grated), two table-spoonfuls 
of rose water. 

Flour, yeast, milk and cream are mixed and allowed to rise, 
which takes about an hour and a half. Then the other ingredi- 
ents are added and the whole is beaten until it is very light. It 
is then rolled out to one-half inch thickness, cut in small square 
pieces and allowed to rise one hour more. Fry in hot lard to a 
light brown and roll while hot in sugar, to which some powdered 
cinnamon may be added. 

EADANKUCHEIiT. 

(German Receipt.) 
Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, three table-spoonfuls of 
yeast, one pint of milk, the yolks of four eggs, one-fourth of a 
pound of sugar, grated peel of one-half a lemon, three-fourths of 
a pound of butter, one-fourth of a pound of raisins (Sultanas), 
salt according to taste. 

s The yeast and half of the milk are poured in the center of a 
dish which contains the flour, and well stirred, so that a soft 
dough is formed, which is covered over and allowed to rise. 
After the dough has risen sufficiently, the other ingredients are 
gradually added and the whole is beaten with a wooden spoon 
for half an hour. The dough is then put into a well buttered 
mold, thickly strewn with small pieces of almond. Then the 
cake must stand until it has risen to the top of the mold, when 
it should be baked in a rather quick oven for one and one quarter 



88 OAKE. 

hours. In putting the dough in the mold care must be taken 
that it is not over half full. This is a most excellent receipt. 

LADIES' CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One pound of sugar, six ounces of butter beaten 
to a cream, the whites of sixteen eggs, the grated rind and juice 
of one lemon, three-fourths of a pound of flour. 

SODA CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of butter, two cups of sugar, three 
cups of flour, whites of five eggs, three-fourths of a cup of milk, 
one small tea-spoonful of soda, two small tea-spoonfuls of cream 
tartar, one cup of raisins, one cup of currants, spice to taste. 

GILLET CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of sugar, two cups of butter, two 
eggs, two tea-spoonfuls of soda, one-half cup of sour cream, flour 
enough to roll out smoothly. 

KATIE'S PLAIN CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, four eggs, 
one cup of cold water, three tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, three 
and one-half cups of flour. Bake immediately. 

GLE2^ COTTAGE CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, four cups 
of flour, one-half cup of sweet milk or cream, the whites of five 
eggs, one tea/-spoonf ul of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar. 

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of sugar, one eg,g^ half a cup of butter, 
half a cup of milk, one tea-spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls 
of cream tartar, any essence you prefer, one tea-spoonful; sifted 
flour to make a stiff batter. Beat thoroughly, add last one pint 
of dried huckleberries, and bake in a quick oven. 

WASHINGTON CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Three cups of sugar, two cups of butter, one 
cup of milk, four cups of flour, five eggs, two tea-spoonfuls of 
cream tartar, one tea-spoonful of soda, fruit and citron if you like. 



CAKE. 89 

NEW YEAR'S CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One and one-fourth pounds of sugar, one pound 
of butter, one-half pint of cold water, two eggs, three and one- 
fourth pounds of flour, one tea-spoonful of soda dissolved in hot 
water, four table-spoonfuls caraway seed in the flour. 

Chop the butter up in the flour, dissolve the sugar in the 
water, mix all well with the beaten eggs, then roll and cut in 
square cakes and bake quickly. 

JENNY LIND CAKE. 
Ingredients. — Three cups of flour, one and one-half cups of 
sugar, two eggs, two table-spoonfuls of butter, one cup of sweet 
milk, one tea-spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, 
or a table-spoonful of baking powder. 

CUSTARD CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One and one-half cups of sugar, two-thirds of a 
cup of butter, one egg., one cup of milk, three cups of flour, one 
tea-spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar. 

Bake in layers and put boiled custard between. 

CIDER SPICED CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One-half cup of butter, one and one-half cups 
of sugar, one cup of cider, one Qgg., two tea-spoonfuls of cinna- 
mon, two tea-spoonfuls of cloves, one-half a nutmeg, one tea- 
spoonful of soda, flour enough for a stiff batter. 

LOVE CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one- 
half cup of milk, two cups of flour, two eggs, full table-spoonful 
of baking powder. 

YELLOW CAKE. 
Ingredients. — Whites of two eggs, yolks of seven eggs, one- 
half pound of sugar, three and one-half ounces of butter, one- 
half a cup of sour cream, one-half a tea-spoonful of soda, three 
small cups of flour. 

ONE EGG CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One-half cup of butter, one cup of sugar, one- 
half cup of milk, one and one-half cups of flour, one heaping 
tea-spoonful of baking powder, one egg. 



90 CAKE. 

PLAIN CAKE. 

(Mrs. John Scott.) 
Ingredients. — One-half cup of butter, one cup of sugar, two 
eggs, one and one-half cups of flour, one-third cup of milk, two 
tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

HICKORY KUT CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup 
of : sour milk, five cups of flour, one large cup of hickory nut 
meats, four eggs, one tea-spoonful of soda. 

SUGAR GINGER BREAD. 

Ingredients. — One quart of molasses, one-half pound of sugar, 
three-fourths of a pound of butter or lard, five eggs, one tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in one-half tea-cupful of milk, flour 
enough to make it as stiff as pound cake, one small table-spoonful 
of ginger. 

GINGER SNAPS, OR COOKIES. 

Ingredients. — Two small cups of molasses, one cup of sugar, 
one cup of sour milk, three eggs, one tea-spoonful of soda, two 
table-spoonfuls of ginger, two cups of butter or shortening, flour 
enough to make a stiff paste. 

GINGER BREAD. 

Ingredients. — One cup of sugar, one cup of molasses, one cup 
of butter, one-half cup of sour or buttermilk, four cups of flour, 
three eggs, one heaping tea-spoonful of ginger, one tea-spoonful 
of cinnamon, one tea-spoonful of soda. Makes two loaves. 

GINGER BREAD. 

Ingredients. — One cup of butter, one large cup of molasses, 
one cup of sugar, three eggs, one tea-spoonful of soda, one table- 
spoonful of ginger, a cup of raisins, flour enough to make a stiff 
batter. 

GINGER BREAD. 

(Delicious.) 
Into a coffee cup put one table-spoonful of butter, three table- 
spoonfuls of boiling water, one tea-spoonful of soda, one tea- 
spoonful of ginger, one tea-spoonful of cinnamon. 



CAKE. 91 

Fill the cup up with molasses. Beat two eggs very light, add 
the mixture in the cup and one and one- half cups of sifted flour. 

GINGER BREAD— WITHOUT EGGS. 

Ingredients. — One cup of butter, one cup of sugar, one cup of 
molasses, one cup of sour milk or coffee, one tea-spoonful of soda 
dissolved in hot water, one tea-spoonful of cinnamon, two tea- 
spoonfuls of ginger, five cups of flour, one cup of raisins. 

GINGER SNAPS. 

Ingredients. — One pint of molasses, one cup of butter, one 
table-spoonful of ginger, one table-spoonful of soda, flour enough 
to roll out very thin. 

Boil the molasses and butter together, then add the other in- 
gredients. 

JACKSON JUMBLES. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one cup 
of cream, a tea-spoonful of soda, two eggs, five cups of flour, and 
a little nutmeg. 

COOKIES. 

Ingredients. — One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup 
of sweet cream, two eggs, one-half tea-spoonful of soda, flour 
enough to roll, cinnamon or nutmeg. , 

NEW YEAR'S COOKIES. 

Ingredients. — One pound of sugar, one pound of butter, one 
cup of sour milk, two eggs, one tea-spoonful of soda, flour enough 
to roll. 

SUPERIOR DOUGHNUTS. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of sugar, one and one-half cups of 
sweet milk, five eggs, three spoonfuls of butter, three tea-spoon- 
fuls of baking powder, salt and flavor to suit the taste. 

Mix as soft as possible, roll out, cut in proper sizes and drop 
in hot lard; when removed from the lard and partly cool dip in 
powdered sugar. 



OAKE. 



FRIED CAKES. 



Ingredients. — One and one-half quarts of flour, two eggs, one 
cup of sugar, one-half a cup of butter, one coffee cup of sweet 
milk, three tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, one and one-half tea- 
spoonfuls of soda, or a heaping table-spoonful of baking powder. 



mJT CAKES. 



Ingredients. — One pint of sour cream, three eggs, two cups of 
sugar, two tea-spoonfuls of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tar- 
tar. Flour enough to roll out. Fry in hot lard. 

FRIED CAKES. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of milk, two cups of sugar, four eggs, 
one-half a cup of butter, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, one 
tea-spoonful of soda, flour enough to roll as for biscuit. 

DOUGHNUTS WITHOUT EGGS. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of sour milk, one and one-fourth cups 
of sugar, three table-spoonfuls of melted butter, one tea-spoonful 
of soda, one tea-spoonful of salt, spice to taste. Mix soft. 

CREAM CAKE. 

Ingredients.— Whites of ten eggs, one goblet of flour, one and 
one-half goblets of pulverized sugar, one tea-spoonful of cream 
tartar. 

Sift the flour five times, then sift sugar and flour together. 
Beat the whites on a platter to a stiff froth. Gently stir in the 
flour and sugar and sifted cream tartar. 

Bake in layers and put together with whipped cream prepared 
as follows: One pint of sweet, thick, verij cold cream, two table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, one tea-spoonful of vanilla. Mix 
together and whip with a Dover egg-beater, or a wire egg whisk, 
until stiff enough to stand alone like the beaten whites of egg. 
Keep the cream very cold. Therein lies the secret of success. 

This is a dainty and elegant cake and well worth the trouble 
it takes to make it. Heap the whipped cream on the top layer 
also. 



CAKE. 93 

LEMON CAKE. 

(Mrs. John Scott.) 

Ingredients. — One pint of flour, one pint of sugar, six eggs 
beaten separately, one heaping table-spoonful of butter, one tea- 
spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, four table- 
spoonfuls of cold water. 

Mix according to general directions and add the water the last 
thing. 

Icing. — One pound of coffee sugar, one-fourth of a pound of 
butter, five eggs, three lemons grated and the juice; boil alto- 
gether till thick and spread on the layers. 

This makes enough jelly for three entire cakes. Use what is 
necessary and put the rest away in tumblers like jelly. It will 
keep for a long time. 

ORANGE CAKE. 
(From Marian Harland.) 

Ingredients. — Three table-spoonfuls of butter, two cups of 
sugar, yolks of five eggs, whites of three, beaten separately, one 
cup of ice water, three heaping cups of flour, the juice and half 
the grated rind of one orange, one heaping table-spoonful of 
baking powder. 

Cream the butter; add the sugar and the yolks of the eggs; 
beat in the orange, the water, and lastly the whites of the egg., 
alternately with the flour. Bake in layer cake tins. 

Mixture to spread between the layers — Ingredients. — Whites 
of two eggs beaten stiff, two cups of powdered sugar, the juice 
and half the grated rind of an orange. Add if necessary a little 
more sugar for top layer. 

DOUGHNUTS. 

Ingredients. — One pint of milk, one pint of sugar, one-half 
cup of lard, two eggs, one cup of yeast, a little salt. Flour 
enough to roll. 

Warm the milk, lard and sugar and pour into the flour; add 
the other ingredients; set away to rise; when light roll, cut and 
fry. 



94 OAKE. 

LEMON" COOKIES. 

Ingredients. — Five eggs, two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, 
five cups of flour, juice and rind of two lemons, one tea-spoonful 
of soda. Do not knead much. Roll sugar over the top. 

GINGER CAKES. • 

Ingredients. — One-half coffee-cup of butter milk, filled up 
with molasses, one-half coffee-cup of sugar, two table-spoonfuls 
of thick sour cream, one egg, one heaping tea-spoonful of soda, 
one tea-spoonful of ginger, about one coffee-cup of flour. 

The cake should be thin. Drop by spoonfuls in a pan, and 
bake from six to ten minutes in a quick oven. 

SPAN'ISH BUKS. ^ 

Ingredients. — One and one-half pints of flour, one pint of 
sugar, four eggs, one cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, one 
table-spoonful of cloves, one table-spoonful of cinnamon, two tea- 
spoonfuls of cream tartar, one tea-spoonful of soda, or one heap- 
ing tea-spoonful of baking powder to every cup of flour. 

CEEAM PIE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of sugar, three eggs, one cup of flour, 
one tea-spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together well. Put the soda and 
cream tartar into the flour and mix well, then put them all to- 
gether and bake on two plates. 

The Custard. — One pint of milk, two eggs, one-half tea-cup 
of sugar, one-half cup of corn-starch or flour, flavor to suit the 
taste. When the custard is cold split the cake and put the cus- 
tard between. 

LUNCH LOAF CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Two and a half cups of powdered sugar, one and 
one-half cups of butter, one cup of milk, three eggs, five cups of 
flour, one glass of wine, one-half pound of raisins, two ounces 
of citron. 

Stir butter and sugar to a cream; add part of the flour with 
the milk and the well beaten yolks; add the rest of the flour, 
whites of eggs, wine, spices and fruit, last, also a fresh lemon. 



CAKE. 95 

One tea-spoonful baking powder, slightly heaped, to every cup of 
flour. If wine is sour add a half tea-spoonful of soda. 

BOSTON" CKEAM CAKES. 

Boil one-half a cupful of butter in one tumbler of water; stir 
into the boiling mixture one and one-half tumblers of flour; take 
from the fire and when cool add five eggs, beating them in, one 
by one; dissolve one-half a tea-spoonful of soda in one-half 
a cupful of boiling water; rinse out a baking sheet with this and 
immediately drop in the batter by spoonfuls. 

Bake in a hot oven half an hour; when done split the cakes 
partly open and fill with custard made as follows : 

Custard. — Two tumblers of milk, one and one-half tea-cups of 
sugar, three-quarters of a tea-cupful of flour, and two eggs. Beat 
the sugar, eggs, and flour together, flavor with vanilla, and stir 
into this the boiling milk; return to the stove and let it boil until 
well thickened, stirring constantly. 

MARMALADE CAKES. 

(Harper's Bazar.) 

Rub together one pound of sugar and one pound of butter un- 
til perfectly light; beat the yolks of eight eggs well; add to the 
butter and sugar; stir into the mixture one tea-spoonful of mixed 
spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace) and a table-spoonful of rose- 
water; sift now into this one and one-half pounds of flour; stir 
the whole well and roll it on the pastry board about one-half an 
inch thick. Cut round or fancy shaped cakes, and bake till done, 
which will be in a few minutes ; when cold spread with marma- 
lade or preserves; then beat the whites of the eight eggs very 
light, adding gradually eight large table-spoonfuls of sifted pul- 
verized sugar; flavor with the juice and grated rind of a lemon, 
and with a spoon put it on each cake, heaping it high in the cen- 
ter. Put the cakes in the oven and brown this meringue deli- 
cately. 

These are elegant little cakes. The above receipt makes a great 
many, and half the quantity is all that will be needed ordinarily. 

CHARLOTTE POLONAISE CAKE. 

The two following receipts are from Marian Harland's "Break- 
fast, Luncheon, and Tea." They are both delicious cakes. The 



96 CAKE. 

amount of filling is more than can be used in either case, and in 
making them I compound but half the quantity. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of powdered sugar, one-half cup of 
butter, four eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one small 
cup of cream or rich milk, three cups of flour, one table-spoonful 
of baking powder. 

Filling. — Six eggs, whipped very light, two table-spoonfuls of 
flour, three cups of cream, scalding hot, six table-spoonfuls of 
grated chocolate, six table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, one-half 
pound sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, one-fourth pound 
chopped citron, one-fourth pound apricots, peaches, or other 
crystallized fruit, one-half pound macaroons. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs very light; stir into the hot cream 
flour which has been previously wet with a little cold milk; add 
very carefully the beaten yolks, and keep the mixture at a slow 
boil, stirring all the time, for five minutes. Take from the fire 
and divide the custard into three equal portions. Put the grated 
chocolate, with the macaroons, finely crumbed (rolled or pounded) 
with one table-spoonful of sugar, into one pan of the mixture, 
stirring and beating well; boil five minutes, stirring constantly; 
take from the fire, whip with your egg-beater five minutes more, 
and set aside to cool. 

Pound the blanched almonds, a few at a time, in a wedgewood 
mortar, adding, now and then, a few drops of rose-water; chop 
the citron very fine and mix with the almonds, adding three 
table-spoonfuls of sugar; stir into the second portion of custard j 
heat to a slow boil; take it off and set by to cool. 

Chop the crystallized fruit very small, and put with the third 
portion of custard; heat to a boil; pour out and cool. 

Season the chocolate custard with vanilla; the almond and cit- 
ron with bitter almond; the fruit will require no flavoring. 

When quite cold, lay out four cakes made according to receipt 
given with this, or bake at the same time a white cake in layers, 
and alternate with that. This will give you two good loaves. 
Put the chocolate filling between the first and second cakes; next, 
the almond and citron; the fruit custard next to the top. (There 
will be more than enough filling for two loaves.) 

Ice the tops with lemon icing made of the whites of the eggs 
whisked very stiff with powdered sugar and flavored with lemon 
iuice. 



CAKE. 97 

A CHAELOTTE X LA PARISIENNE. 

Ingredients. — One large stale sponge cake, one cup rich sweet 
custard, one cup sweet cream, whipped, two table-spoonfuls rose- 
water, one-half grated cocoanut, one-half pound sweet almonds, 
blanched and pounded, whites of four eggs, whipped stiff, three 
table-spoonfuls powdered sugar. 

Cut the cake in horizontal slices the whole breadth of the loaf. 
The slices should be about half an inch thick. Divide the 
whipped eggs into two portions; into one stir the cocoanut with 
half the sugar; into the other the almond paste with the rest of 
the sugar. Spread the slices with these mixtures — half with the 
cocoanut, half with the almond, and replace them in their orig- 
inal form, laying aside the top crust for a lid. Press all the 
sliced cake firmly together, that the slices may not slip, and with 
a sharp knife cut a deep section out of the center down to the 
bottom slice, which must be left entire. Take out the sections 
you have cut, leaving walls an inch thick, and soak the part re- 
moved in a bowl with the custard. Rub it to a smooth batter 
and whip it into the frothed cream. The rose-water in the al- 
mond paste will flavor it sufficiently. When it is a stiff, rich 
cream, fill the cavity of the cake with it, put on the lid and ice 
with the following: 

Whites of three eggs, one heaping cup of powdered sugar, 
juice of one lemon. Beat stiff and cover the sides and top of 
the cake. Set "in a very cold place until needed. 

This is a delicious and elegant charlotte. 

SWISS ROLL. 

Ingredients. — Two eggs, their weight in flour, butter, and 
sugar, two table-spoonfuls of milk, one tea-spoonful of baking 
powder. 

Bake in a sheet, and spread jam over and roll. 

ROCK CAKES. 
(English Receipt.) 
Ingredients. — One pound of flour, four ounces of dripping or 
butter, three ounces of sugar, five ounces of currants, grated rind 
of a lemon, one tea-spoonful of baking powder, one egg.^ one gill 
of milk. 
7 



98 CAKE. 

Rub the shortening into the flour, add the other dry ingredi- 
ents, stir in the baking powder and bind together with the milk 
and egg. Drop by spoonfuls on a baking sheet in a rough shape 
and dredge with sugar. Bake in a quick oven. 

GEEMAI^ POUND CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One-half pound of sugar, one-half pound of 
butter, ten ounces of flour, two ounces candied peel (citron, 
orange, and lemon), four ounces of sultanas, whites of four and 
yolks of five eggs. 

Cream the butter, add the sugar and beat until perfectly soft 
and smooth; drop two eggs into the mixture and beat well; then 
add a handful of flour, and then the rest of the eggs; then mix 
in the remainder of the flour, and add the fruit last. Bake one 
and one-half hours. 

PLAIN CAKE. 

(South Kensington Receipt.) 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, five ounces of butter rubbed 
together, one table-spoonful of baking powder, five ounces sul- 
tanas, four ounces of sugar, three eggs, three-fourths of a pint 
of milk. Bake two hours in a moderate oven. 

MADEIRA CAKE. 

Ingredients. — One-half pound of flour, seven ounces of butter, 
one-half pound of sugar, the yolks of six and the whites of four 
eggs. 

Work the sugar and butter well together, drop in two of the 
eggs and beat well, add a little flour to prevent the batter curd- 
ling, then add two more eggs, beat well, then two yolks, then 
the remainder of the flour. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

(South Kensington Receipt.) 

Ingredients. — One-half pound of loaf sugar, one-half gill of 
water, melted together in a stew-pan; break into a basin eight 
yolks and four whites of eggs, whisk lightly, then add a little of 
the sugar and water, and keep on whisking about two minutes, 
then place the mixture over a sauce-pan of hot water and add the 



CAKE. 99 

rest of the sugar and water, and keep on beating until the whole 
is very light (about one-half hour); then add gradually one-half 
pound of flour. 

SHORT BREAD. 
(South Kensington Receipt.) 
Ingredients — One-half pound of flour, five ounces of butter 
worked together; three ounces of sugar and one table-spoonful 
of water melted together, and stirred, while hot, into the flour 
and butter; mix together with a wooden spoon; take out the 
spoon, flour the table and the hands and take the mixture out; 
divide into equal parts and shape lightly into an oval or round 
form; scatter pieces of candied peel over the top; bake in a mod- 
erate oven one-half hour. 

FROSTING, OR ICING FOR CAKES. 
The whites of eggs do not need beating for plain icing. The 
sugar should be sifted. Lemon juice not only flavors the icing 
pleasantly but it also whitens it. Allow one heaping cup of 
sugar to the white of one eg^, and enough lemon juice to make 
it slightly acid. Beat the whites until they foam a little, add 
the sugar gradually and put on the cake, if possible, while it is 
still hot. Dredge the warm loaf with flour, and wipe it quickly 
ofi'. The icing will then stick to the cake. Have a cup of boiling 
water and a knife at hand. Put enough of icing in the center 
of the loaf to cover the top of the cake. Dip the knife in the 
hot water and smooth it quickly and evenly over the surface. 

CHOCOLATE FROSTING. 

Ingredients. — One-fourth cake of Baker's chocolate grated, one 
cup of sugar boiled with three table-spoonfuls of well water; 
pour over chocolate when it will string; stir until nearly cold, 
then add the beaten white of an egg. 

BOILED ICING. 

Ingredients. — One pound of powdered sugar, whites of three 
eggs; flavor to taste. 

Boil the sugar with a little water; when it is nearly ready to 
candy or will string from the spoon take it ofi' the fire, and while 
still boiling hot add the whites of eggs well beaten, stirring as 
fast as possible. 



OHAPTEE \^III 




PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

^0 make good pastry, light and tender but by no means 
greasy, requires practice and skill. In the first place 
everything to be used should be cold, the flour must be 
perfectly dry, the butter free from moisture, and the 
temperature of the oven just right. The movements of the cook 
must be quick and delicate, and everything so well timed that 
the pastry need not wait for the oven, nor the oven for the 
pastry. 

In my receipts, I have given first a plain pie-crust, and have 
advanced from that to puff paste. I have been most careful to 
gather the best receipts for this complicated and flaky paste in 
print, and am able to offer my readers Francatelli's, Soyer's, and 
Monsieur Ude's instructions on this point. I give also the 
methods taught in the English National Training School, and 
therefore am assured that no fuller or more complete set of 
directions for making puff-paste can be found in any cook-book. 

Pie-crust needs a pretty hot oven. It is a good plan to try the 
heat by putting a small piece of dough on a tin and baking it as 
a test for the temperature. If by the time it is slightly colored 
the paste is cooked through, the oven is ready for the pies. 

There are a few things to be remembered also in the com- 
pounding of puddings to which I call attention. 

Suet should be lightly dredged with flour while it is being 
chopped to prevent sticking. 

Raisins and currants must be carefully cleaned before using. 
Unless sultanas are used, raisins should always be stoned for pies 
or puddings. Currants and sultanas may be cleaned in part by 
putting them dry on a seive and rubbing flour tljrough them 

101 



102 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

until the stems and dust are rubbed off. Then they must be 
looked over to make sure they are free from stones or other for- 
eign substances. If they are washed they must be thoroughly 
dried before being used. 

Batter puddings should be so mixed as to be entirely free 
from lumps. It is a good plan to strain them before cooking. 

Boiled puddings should always be put in boiling water, which 
should continue to boil steadily all the time the pudding is in. 
If boiled in a cloth, that should be dipped in scalding hot water 
and slightly dredged with flour before the pudding is put in. 
When the pudding is taken out, plunge it for a moment in cold 
water before removing the cloth. This will prevent its sticking. 

For a meringue allow one table-spoonful of sugar to the white 
of one egg and a few drops of lemon juice. Beat the whites very 
stiff, add the sugar gradually and lightly, and heap the meringue 
on the pie or pudding while it is still hot, and then color it 
slightly in the oven. 

IPIES.- 

PLAIN" PIE-CSUST. 

Ingredients. — Three cups of flour, one cup of lard, or butter 
(heaping), one tea-spoonful of salt, cold water to mix. 

Cut the shortening into the flour to which the salt has been 
added. Use just enough very cold water to bind the whole to- 
gether, still mixing with the knife, or, if preferred, the knife can 
be removed and a spoon used in its place. Be sure that the flour 
is dry, the shortening very cold and hard, and the water also very 
cold. Handle as little as possible. Take out on to the pastry 
board just enough to line the pie-tin, and roll it as nearly the 
size of the tin as possible. 

PASTRY. 
(Home Messenger Receipt Booh) 
Ingredients. — One and one-quarter pounds of flour, one pound 
of shortening and a little salt, all cut together. Sufficient cold 
water to mix with; no more flour. 

Put upon the molding board, roll out and cut into strips; put 
one upon another, then cut off in squares, roll out and put upon 
plates. 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 103 

EOUGH PUFF PASTE. 

This, and the short crust for fruit pies which follows, were 
taught me in the South Kensington School. 

higredients. — One-half pound of best flour, one-half pound of 
butter, cold water to mix. 

Rub two ounces of the butter into the flour until the mixture 
is like fine bread crumbs; mix it with cold water to a smooth, 
rather soft paste; roll thin; shave the rest of the butter into 
flakes and put in the center; fold the paste over it, the edges just 
meeting, and smooth it a little with the rolling-pin; then fold 
the same way again, the long way of the paste, the two sides 
containing the butter folding over on each other, leaving the ends 
free from the butter; now roll the ends gently so as to flatten 
them somewhat and fold one over the upper side one-third, the 
other on the under side, one-third, and flatten slightly with the 
rolling-pin ; set away to cool ; roll four times. 

This makes fine vol-au-vents also. I could see very little 
difference, indeed, between this and the other puff paste. 

SHOET CRUST. 

{Excellent.) 

Ingredients. — Six ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, one 
table-spoonful of sugar, rubbed together, add the yolk of an eg^ 
and a few drops of lemon juce, and blend all together with as 
little cold water as possible. 

Fruit tarts or pies are made in England in deep dishes, or 
"nappies" without a bottom crust. They are delicious. This 
short crust is used to cover them. The edge of the dish is cov- 
ered with a strip of the crust, the fruit is put in, and the top 
crust put on, a few holes are pricked in the top and the whole is 
slowly baked. Or, the dish is filled with a " dummy," the crust 
put on, and when baked, carefully removed and the stewed fruit 
poured in and the crust replaced. 

A "dummy" is usually a piece of bread the size of the opening, 
or a hard crust made by mixing flour and water into a stiff 
dough and baking it very thoroughly. 

PUFF PASTE. 
The following is the method taught at " The National Train- 
ing School of Cookery," at South Kensington, London. 



104 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. — One-lialf pound of flour, one-half pound of but- 
ter, one good tea-spoonful of lemon juice, the yolk of one egg. 

Put the flour in a pile on the pastry-board; make a well in the 
center; drop in the yolk of the egg and the lemon juice; work 
the flour and egg and lemon juice with the ends of the finger? 
of the right hand into a firm paste, using as much very cold 
water in addition as is necessary; squeeze the whey and butter- 
milk well out of the butter, make it into a flat cake, put it in 
the center of the paste (which must previously be rolled into an 
oblong shape) and fold the edges over so it is completely covered; 
flatten it gently with the rolling-pin, and let it stand in a cold 
place, or on ice, until perfectly cold and firm (about ten minutes); 
then roll it one way, being Yerj particular to keep the edges even 
and straight; when rolled out into a long even piece, fold one 
edge exactly to the middle, fold the other over so as to meet it 
perfectly, make sure that the edges are even and straight, and 
then turn it and roll in an opposite direction, fold in the same 
way and leave again until cold; roll six times for pastry, eight 
times for vol-au-vents. 

PUFF PASTE. 

(Francatelli.) 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one pound of butter, the 
yolk of an egg, a tea-spoonful of salt, and about one-half pint of 
water. 

Place the flour on the pastry slab or board, spread it out in 
the center, so as to form a well, in which place the salt, a small 
piece of butter, the yolk of an egg, and about two-thirds of the 
quantity of water required to mix the paste; spread out the fin- 
gers of the right hand, and mix the ingredients together gradu- 
ally with the tips of the fingers^ adding a little more water, if 
necessary; when the whole is thoroughly incorporated together 
sprinkle a few drops of water over it, and work the paste to and 
fro on the slab for two minutes, after which it should be rather 
soft to the touch, and present a perfectly smooth appearance. 

The paste, thus far prepared, must now be spread out on the 
slab with the hands, and after the butter has been pressed in a 
cloth, to extract any milk it may contain, it should be placed in 
the center of the paste, and partially spread, by pressing on it 
with the cloth; the four sides should then be folded over so as to 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 105 

entirely cover the butter; a little flour must next be shaken over 
and under it, and the paste should be shaped in a square form, 
measuring about ten inches each way, by pressing it out with 
the hand; it should then be placed on a clean baking sheet, 
laid on some pounded ice, and a deep pan also filled with ice 
should be placed upon it. By these means the paste will be kept 
cool and firm. About ten minutes after the paste has been made, 
take it from the ice, shake a little flour over and under it, and 
then roll it out about two feet long and ten inches wide, observ- 
ing that the paste must be kept square at both ends, as much of 
the success depends on due attention being paid to the turning 
and folding. The paste should then be laid in three equal folds, 
and after these have been rolled over to cause them to adhere 
together, the paste must next be turned round in the opposite 
direction, and rolled out again in the same manner as before; it 
should then be put back on the ice, and after allowing it to rest 
for about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, roll it out again, 
or, as it is technically termed, give it two more turns; the paste 
must now be put back on the ice, and again rolled twice or three 
times, as the case may require, preparatory to its being cut out 
for whatever purpose it may be intended. 

In the summer season it is impossible to secure success in 
making puff paste, unless ice be used to further that end, it being 
a matter of the first necessity that it should be kept cool and 
firm; two requisites that tend materially to facilitate the work- 
ing of the paste, and also contribute very materially to give to 
it that extraordinary degree of elasticity so well known to expe- 
rienced pastry cooks. A piece of puff paste, a quarter of an inch 
thick, when baked, will rise to the height of two inches, thus 
increasing the volume eight times. To effect this properly, it is 
necessary to procure three oblong tin pans, of the following 
dimensions: the first should measure twenty inches by sixteen, 
depth three inches; the second, eighteen inches by foul', depth 
two inches ; and the third, sixteen inches by twelve, depth three 
inches. Place some pounded ice in the largest, then set the 
second sized tin on this, with the puff' paste in it; lastly, put the 
smallest pan, also filled with ice, on the top of the paste. By this 
method puff' paste may easily be made to perfection during the 
hottest days of summer. 



106 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

In winter the use of ice may, of course, be dispensed with. 
In extreme cold weather when the butter is very hard, it will be 
necessary to press it in a cloth or on the slab, to give it more 
expansion, and thus facilitate its incorporation with the paste. 
Care must be taken, in mixing the paste, not to make it too stiflC, 
especially in summer, as, in that case, it becomes not only 
troublesome to work, but it also affects its elasticity in baking. 

PUFF PASTE. 

{Soyer's Receipt.) 

Ingredients. — To every pound of flour allow the yolk of one 
egg^ the juice of one lemon, one-half salt-spoonful of salt, cold 
water, one pound of fresh butter. 

Put the flour on to the paste board; make a hole in the center, 
into which put the yolk of the egg., the lemon juice, and salt; 
mix the whole with cold water (this should be iced in summer) 
into a soft flexible paste, with the right hand, and handle it as 
little as possible; then squeeze all the butter-milk from the but- 
ter, wring it in a cloth, and roll out the paste; place the butter 
on this, and fold the edges of the paste over, so as to hide it; 
roll it out again to the thickness of one-fourth of an inch; fold 
over one-third, over which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold 
over the other third, thus forming a square ; place it with the 
ends, top, and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both 
under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as 
before. Flour a baking sheet, put the paste on this, and let it 
remain on ice or in some cooj place for one-half hour; then roll 
twice more, turning it as before; place it again upon the ice for 
one-fourth hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all, and 
it is ready for use. 

PUFF PASTE. 

(M. Ude's Receipt.) 

Ingredients. — Equal quantities of flour and butter, say one 
pound of eacli, one-half salt-spoonful of salt, the yolks of two 
eggs, rather more than one-fourth of a pint of water. 

Weigh the flour, ascertain that it is perfectly dry, and sift it; 
squeeze all the water from the butter, and wring it in a clean 
cloth till there is no moisture remaining. Put the flour on the 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 107 

paste board, work lightly into it two ounces of the butter, and 
then make a hole in the center; into this well put the yolks of 
two eggs, the salt, and about one-fourth pint of water (the quan- 
tity of this latter ingredient must be regulated by the cook, as it is 
impossible to give the exact proportion of it) ; knead up the paste 
quickly and lightly, and, when quite smooth, roll it out square to 
the thickness of about one-half inch. Presuming that the 
butter is perfectly free from moisture, and as cool as possible, roll 
it into a ball, and place this ball of butter on the paste; fold the 
paste over the butter all round and secure it by wrapping well 
all over. Flatten the paste by rolling it lightly with the rolling 
pin until it is quite thin, but not thin enough to allow the butter 
to break through, and keep the board and paste dredged lightly 
with flour during the process of making it. This rolling gives 
it the first turn. Now fold the paste in three, and roll it out 
again, and, should the weather be very warm, put it in a cold 
place to cool between the several turns, for, unless this is partic- 
ularly attended to, the paste will be spoiled. Roll out the paste 
again twice, put it by to cool, then roll it out twice more, which 
will make six turnings in all. Now fold the paste in two, and 
it will be ready for use. If properly baked and well made, this 
crust will be delicious, and should rise in the oven several inches. 
The paste should be made rather firm in the first instance as the 
ball of butter is liable to break through. Great attention must 
also be paid to keeping the butter very cool, as, if this is in a 
liquid and soft state, the paste will not answer at all. 

GKEEN APPLE PIES. 

Grate raw six sour apples, add a cup of sugar, three table-spoon- 
fuls of melted butter, four eggs, one table-spoonful of lemon 
juice, two table-spoonfuls of chopped almonds (blanched), a few 
Zantee currants. Line a pie plate with paste, fill and bake with- 
out an upper crust. Cover with a m6ringue if desired. 

GREE:N^ APPLE PIE. 

Line a rather deep pie plate with pastry; slice tender, sour ap- 
ples to fill the plate; season with sugar, little lumps of butter 
and nutmeg or cinnamon; add a very little water, cover and bake. 



108 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

GREEN APPLE PIE. 

Proceed as above, omitting all seasoning until baked; then 
carefully remove the upper crust, mash the apple gently with a 
spoon, season to taste, and replace the cover. 

GREEN APPLE PIE. 

Stew tender sour apples; press them through a sieve; add the 
yolks of three eggs, half a cup of milk, and half a cup of sugar 
to a quantity sufficient for one pie. Bake without an upper 
crust; make a meringue of the whites of the eggs, three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar and a tea-spoonful of lemon juice for the top 
of each pie; spread on while the pie is still hot and color a light 
brown in the oven. 

DRIED APPLE PIE. 

Pass the stewed apple through a cullender; if the apples are 
not tart add the juice and grated rind of a lemon; sweeten to 
taste; to a quantity sufficient for one pie add the yolks of four 
eggs and half a cupful of sweet milk. Bake with one crust, and 
when the pastry is done, make a meringue for the top with the 
whites of the eggs and four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. 

DRIED PEACH PIE. 

This can be made in the same way, or the eggs and milk may 
be omitted, and the pie filled simply with the peach pulp. Cover 
with a meringue. 

PIE PLANT PIE. 

Line a pie tin with pastry, cut the pie plant, after taking off 
the skin, in inch lengths; fill the pie very full, allow a good tea- 
cupful of sugar to one pie; dot with little lumps of butter (about 
a tea-spoonful in all), cover, and bake in a rather slow oven. 

PIE PLANT PIE. 

Stew the pie plant as for sauce, sweeten well, press through a 
cullender or sieve, add to a quantity sufficient for one pie the 
yolks of three eggs and half a tea-cupful of milk; bake with one 
crust and cover with a meringue. 

This can scarcely be told from a lemon pie. 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 109 

PIE PLANT PIE. 

Cut the pie plant in inch lengths, fill a deep dish, sweeten, add 
a very little water (a table-spoonful) and bake with a top cover, 
made after the receipt for short crust. 

LEMON PIE. 

Ingredients. — Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of two lem- 
ons ; beat the yolks of three eggs with eight table-spoonfuls of 
cofiee sugar, half a cup of water and two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Stir the flour into the well beaten yolks and sugar, then add 
water, juice and rind; bake with an under crust; have ready, when 
it comes from the oven, the whites beaten to a stiff froth, with four 
table-spoonfuls of pulverized sugar; put on, set in the oven and 
brown as quickly as possible to avoid its being leathery. 

LEMON PIES. 

Ingredients. — Two lemons, grated rind and juice, two cups of 
sugar, yolks of six eggs, two table-spoonfuls of corn starch, one 
and one-half cups of sweet milk. 

Bake till crust is done. Beat the whites of six eggs with 
eight table-spoonfuls of sugar. Frost the pies and bake to a very 
light brown. Makes two pies. 

LEMON PIE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of white sugar, one table-spoonful of 
corn starch, one lemon (grate off the outside rind and squeeze 
out the juice), one Qgg^ one cup boiling water, a dessert-spoonful 
of butter. 

Put the corn starch in a tea-cup and wet it with cold water 
and fill the cup with boiling water; add butter. When a little 
cold add the egg and lemon. Make two crusts and bake. 

LEMON PIE. 

Ingredients. — Grated peel and juice of one lemon, yolks of 
four eggs, six table-spoonfuls of sugar, one tumbler of cold 
water, piece of butter the size of a butternut, one table-spoonful 
of flour. 

The whites of the eggs and four table-spoonfuls of powdered 
sugar make the meringue. 



110 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

LEMOl^r PIE. 

Ingredients. — Three cups of sugar, one and one-half cups of 
sweet milk, five eggs, three lemons, whites of six eggs, six table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Makes two pies. 

Use the whites of the eggs and the six table-spoonfuls of sugar 
for a meringue for the top. 

LEMOK PIE. 

Ingredients. — One large sour apple, chopped fine, grated rind 
and juice of one lemon, one egg, one cup of sugar, one tea- 
spoonful of butter. 

Bake with two crusts or with a meringue and one crust. 

MINCE MEAT. 

Ingredients. — Four pounds of beef, three pounds of suet, eight 
pounds of apples, three pounds of currants, three pounds of 
raisins, six pounds of sugar, spice, wine and cider to taste. 

RICH MINCE MEAT. 
{Home Messenger Receipt Book.) 

Ingredients. — Three pounds of beef, one fresh beefs tongue, 
four or six pounds of suet, three and a half pounds of raisins, 
three pounds of currants, three-quarters of a pound of citron, 
eight pounds of chopped apples, four and a half pounds of sugar, 
three pints of molasses, three ounces of cinnamon, two ounces 
of cloves, a nutmeg, one tea-cupful of mace compound, one and 
one-fourth ounces of salt, half an ounce of pepper, one and one- 
half gallons of sweet cider. 

When mixed, put into a kettle and scald, stirring it all the 
time. Put it hot into Hero or Mason jars — two quarts or gallon 
jars — and the longer you keep it the nicer it will be. 

CUSTAED PIE. 

To one pint of milk allow three whole eggs or the yolks of five, 
one-half cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, and flavoring to taste. If 
the yolks only are used, cover the pie with a meringue made 
with the whites. 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. Ill 

PUMPKIK PIE. 

To one quart of stewed pumpkin mashed and free from lumps, 
add one quart of milk, three or four eggs well beaten, a small 
cup of sugar, one tea-spoonful of salt, one table-spoonful of 
ginger. 

Bake in a very hot oven. 

SQUASH PIE. 
{Miss Parloa.) 
Pare, boil, and sift a good dry squash. To one quart of the 
squash pour on two of boiling milk, and then stir in two cups of 
sugar, two spoonfuls of salt, one of cinnamon, one grated nut- 
meg, and five well beaten eggs. 

PEACH COBBLER 

Fill a pudding dish with ivhole pared peaches, having first 
placed a small cup in the center of the dish; add a good half tea- 
cupful of sugar, and a half tea-cupful of water, and cover with 
rich pie-crust. Bake half an hour. 

BERRY PIE. 

Use a deep pie plate for all berry pies. Cherries and currants 
do not require any water; for other small fruits allow about two 
table-spoonfuls of water and three table-spoonfuls of sugar to a 
pie. Use the same amount of sugar for cherries and currants. 
Bake with two crusts. 

CREAM PIE. 

Ingredients. — One pint of rich cream, one scant tea-cup of 
sugar, the whites of four eggs whipped to a stiff froth. 

Beat all together and pour into a pie plate lined with paste. 
Bake as you would custard pie and eat very cold. 

CREAM PIE. 

Ingredients. — Three pints of rich cream, five eggs, and one cup 
of sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, or a tea-spoonful of vanilla. 

Beat eggs and sugar together; and the milk and flavoring, and 
bake like custard. 

The quantity given above makes two pies. 



112 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

COCOANUT PIES. 

Ingredients. — One quart of milk, four eggs, eight table-spoon- 
fuls of prepared cocoanut. Sweeten to taste. Two pies. 

MOCK MINCE PIES. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of warm water, one-half cup of butter, 
two-thirds of a cup of vinegar, one cup of raisins, one cup o£ 
bread crumbs, one cup of sugar, one cup of molasses, spice to 
taste. 

CHEESE CAICES. 

Ingredients. — One and one-half ounces of butter, one and one- 
half ounces of sugar, one egg., five drops of almond essence, 
grated rind of a lemon, a sprinkle of nutmeg; one ounce of 
cracker crumbs, four table-spoonfuls of milk. 

Bake in patty-pans lined with puff paste. 

POTATO CHEESE CAKES. 

Ingredients. — One pound of mashed potatoes, one-quarter of 
a pound of Zantee currants, one-quarter of a pound each of sugar 
and butter, four eggs, and the grated rind of one lemon. 

Mix all together with a little cold milk or water, and bake in 
patty pans lined with puff paste. 

POTATO CHEESE CAKES. 

Ingredients. — Six ounces of mashed potatoes, four ounces of 
lemon peel, four ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, a little 
cream. 

Bake in puff paste, and before putting them in the oven sift 
a little loaf sugar over them. 

iPTjnDiDinsra-s. 

PLUM PUDDING. 

(Francatelli.) 
Ingredients. — Three-quarters of a pound of raisins, three- 
quarters of a pound of currants, half a pound each of candied 
orange, lemon, and citron, one and one-fourth pounds of chopped 
beef suet, one pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of moist 
sugar, four eggs, about three gills of milk, the grated rind of two 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 113 

lemons, half an ounce each of ground mustard, cinnamon, and 
cloves, a glass of brandy, and a very little salt. 

Mix the above ingredients thoroughly together in a large 
basin several hours before the pudding is to be boiled; pour them 
into a mold spread with butter, which should be tied up in a 
cloth. The pudding must then be boiled four hours and a half ; 
when done, dish it up with a German custard-sauce spread over it. 

GERMAN CUSTARD SAUCE. 

(FrancatelU.) 

Put four yolks of eggs into a stew-pan, together with two 
ounces of pounded sugar, a glass of sherry, some orange or lemon 
peel (rubbed on loaf sugar), and a very little salt. Whisk this 
sharply over a very slow fire, until it assumes the appearance of 
a light, frothy custard. 

PLUM PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One cup of suet chopped fine, one cup of mo- 
lasses, one cup of raisins, one cup of sweet milk, one egg.^ one 
tea-spoonful of soda, a little salt, enough flour to make the batter 
as stiff as for cake. 

Boil or steam two or three hours. 

PLAIN PLUM PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One cup of molasses, one cup of sweet milk, one 
half a cup of butter, one nutmeg, one tea-spoonful of allspice, 
one-half tea-spoonful of cloves, one tea-spoonful of soda, one-half 
pound of raisins, one-half pound of currants, one-fourth pound 
of citron. 

Boil one hour; serve with wine sauce. 

POOR MAN'S PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of raisins chopped fine, two cups of 
molasses, one cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, one tea-spoon- 
ful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, flour enough to 
make it as stiff as plum pudding. 

Boil three hours. 



8 



114 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

PUDDING A LA FRANCAISE. 

(South Kensington ScJiool.) 

Ingredients. — Twelve ounces of suet, eight ounces of flour, 
eight ounces of apricot jam, four ounces or chopped apple, six 
ounces candied cherries, six ounces of candied peel, four ounces 
of sugar, one tea-spoonful mixed spices (cinnamon, cloves, nut- 
meg), the grated peel of two lemons, five eggs, one glass of sherry, 
one-half pint of cream. 

Mix and boil four hours. This is an expensive and elegant 
pudding, and the quantity made from the above ingredients is 
sufficient for a dinner party of twelve or fourteen guests. 

VIEN^^OISE PUDDING. 

(South Kensington School.) 

Ingredients. — Five ounces crumb of bread, two ounces candied 
peel, three ounces granulated sugar, one ounce lump sugar, grated 
rind of one lemon, two eggs, one-half pint of milk, one gill of 
cream, three ounces sultanas, one wine-glass of sherry. 

Cut the bread in dice, add the three ounces of granulated 
sugar, the raisins, lemon rind, and chopped candied peel, and 
sherry; now put the lump sugar, in a saucepan, over the fire, to 
brown; when it is a dark brown, add the milk and stir until the 
milk is evenly and thoroughly colored; break the eggs in a basin, 
beat, and add the colored milk, stirring all the time; pour this 
custard over the other ingredients; add the cream; steam in a 
well buttered mold one and one-half hours. Eat with sauce. 

COLD APPLE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Six good sized sour apples, five ounces of sugar, 
two table-spoonfuls of water, one-fourth pound of macaroons, 
one-half pint of milk, yolks of four eggs, one-half ounce of gel- 
atine, two dozen pistachio or almond kernels. 

Stew the apples with three ounces of sugar and two table- 
spoonfuls of water; when tender pass them through a sieve (there 
should be one-half pound after tliey are sifted); pound and sift 
the macaroons; make a boiled custard with the milk, eggs, and 
two ounces of sugar, add to it the macaroons and one-fourth 
ounce of gelatine previously dissolved; add one-fourth ounce 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 115 

dissolved gelatine to the apple also; blanch, dry, and chop fine 
the nuts; wet the bottom of the mold with a little gelatine dis- 
solved and sweetened; when it is nearly set strew the nuts 
thickly over it ; when firm, wet the sides of the mold also with 
the gelatine and cover thickly with grated cocoanut ; when firm 
pour a layer of the custard in and leave it to become solid ; then 
put in a layer of the apple and let it set; then another of custard, 
and so on until the mold is filled. When firm, turn out and 
serve. 

COLD PINE-APPLE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One can of pine-apple, two ounces macaroons, 
two dozen almonds, one-half ounce gelatine. 

Pound the pine-apple and pass it through a hair sieve; put 
the juice in a stew pan over the fire and simmer until reduced 
to half the quantity; pound and sift the macaroons; blanch and 
chop the almonds; pour the reduced juice on the pine-apple 
pulp, add the gelatine, previously dissolved, and the macaroons, 
and almonds; decorate the bottom of the mold Avith gelatine, 
dissolved and sweetened, and colored a bright red with extract 
of cochineal; when it is set pour some clear gelatine over the 
sides and decorate with fancy pieces of angelica or citron; when 
firm fill the mold with the pine -apple and leave to become solid. 

APPLE AMBER PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Six ounces bread crumbs, two ounces flour, four 
ounces suet, three-fourths pound chopped apple, two ounces 
granulated sugar, one lemon, a little nutmeg, three eggs, one- 
half ounce of butter. 

Boil in a mold well buttered, two and one-half hours. 

BROWN BETTY. 

Butter and strew thickly with fine bread crumbs a deep pie 
dish, and fill it with alternate layers of sliced sour apple seasoned 
with sugar, bits of butter, and either cinnamon or nutmeg, and 
bread crumbs, having the top layer of bread crumbs stuck with 
lumps of butter; pour over the whole a few table-spoonfuls of 
cold water; press a plate over the top and keep covered while 
baking. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Eat with sweet cream. 



116 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

APPLE PUDDING. 

Stew some tender juicy apples in a very little water; when 
cooked mash them fine and whilst hot add to one pound of the 
apple one-quarter of a pound of butter, sugar and spice to taste. 
When cold add four well beaten eggs. Butter well a large pud- 
ding dish, strew the bottom well with bread crumbs. Either 
bake or steam and when done sift sugar over it. 

ANOTHER APPLE PUDDING. 

Prepare the apples the same as above, or grate sweet apples 
instead of stewing sour ones. Take three cups of rich sweet 
milk, four well beaten eggs, a pinch of salt, and flour suflBcient 
to make a batter. Butter well the pudding dish, pour half the 
batter in, then the apple, then the balance of the batter. This 
can be either baked or steamed. 

Both puddings are nice eaten with rich milk, or cream and 
sugar, or other sauce. 

BAKED APPLE PUDDING. 

Stew nicely four large sour apples, with the rind of a lemon 
grated, one tea-cup of sugar, six table-spoonfuls of melted but- 
ter, two slices of bread crumbed, whites of two and yolks of 
five eggs. 

Line the dish with pastry; bake half an hour. Beat the re- 
maining whites with twelve table-spoonfuls of sugar, spread on 
the top and bake a light brown. 

APPLE PUDDING. 

Pare and chop six good sour apples; butter a pudding dish 
and put in a layer of grated bread half an inch thick. Add small 
bits of butter, put in a layer of chopped apple with sugar and 
grated lemon peel, and another layer of bread crumbs, until the 
dish is full, having grated bread at the top. Pour on one cup of 
cold water, and bake thirty minutes. 

APPLE o:melet. 

Pare, core, and stew six large tart apples. Beat them very 
smooth while hot, adding one spoonful of butter, six spoonfuls 
of sugar, and a little nutmeg. When perfectly cold add three 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 117 

eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. Pour this into a deep 
buttered baking dish and bake to a delicate brown. 

APPLE BATTER PUDDING. 

Core and pare eight apples, put in a pudding dish, fill the 
places from which the cores have been taken with sugar, 
cover and bake until tender. Beat the yolks of four eggs light, 
add two tea-cups of flour with three even tea-spoonfuls of baking 
powder sifted with it, one pint of milk, a tea-spoonful of salt, and 
the beaten whites of the eggs. Pour this over the apples and 
bake half an hour. 

BOILED APPLE OR FRUIT PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Two eggs, one pint of milk, one-half tea-spoon- 
ful of baking powder, sliced apples. 

Make a batter thicker than for waffles; fill a pudding dish with 
alternate layers of batter and sliced apple, and steam one and 
one-half hours. 

SUET PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One-half pound of suet, one pound of fruit, two 
pounds of flour, enough cold water for a stiff paste- Boil three 
hours. 

DARK PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One cup of molasses, one cup of milk, one cup 
of suet, one and one-half cups of raisins, chopped fine, three and 
one-half cups of flour, one-fourth tea-spoonful of nutmeg, one- 
half tea-spoonful each of cinnamon and soda, one tea-spoonful of 
salt. Steam four hours. 

JELLY PUDDING. 

("'75. ") 

Ingredients. — Two cups of sugar, two cups of flour, six eggs, 
a half cup of milk, one tea-spoonful of soda, and two tea-spoon- 
fuls of cream tartar. 

Bake in a long tin; when done spread with jelly and roll up. 
Serve with boiled sauce. 



118 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

COTTAGE PUDDI:N'G. 

Ingredients. — One egg, one pint of flour, one cup of milk, 
three table-spoonfuls of melted butter, one tea-spoonful of soda, 
two tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar. 

Mix the cream tartar in the flour and the soda in the milk. 
Can be made in twenty minutes. Bake quickly and eat with 
sauce. Square, shallow pans are best to bake in. Two tea-spoon- 
fuls of baking powder can be used. 

FIG puddi:n^g. 

Ingredients. — Three-quarters of a pound of grated bread 
crumbs, six ounces of suet chopped fine, half a pound of figs, 
also chopped, six ounces of sugar, a little nutmeg, a tea-cupful of 
milk and one eg^. 

Mix the bread and suet first, then the figs, sugar, nutmeg, and 
Qgg., and add the milk lastly. Boil in a pudding mold four hours. 

BLACK PUDDIj;rG. 

Ingredients. — Eight eggs, one pint of molasses, one cup of 
butter, one cup of sugar, one cup of milk, two cups of flour, one 
table-spoonful of soda. 

Sauce for same. — Two cups of sugar, one table-spoonful of 
butter, one and one-half cups of boiling water, one lemon, squeeze 
in the juice and grate the peel. Bake one hour. 

STEAM PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One tea-cup of beef suet, one tea-cup of raisins, 
one tea-cup of molasses, one tea-cup of sweet milk, one tea-spoon- 
ful of cream tartar, one-half tea-spoonful of soda, flour enough to 
make a stiff batter. 

CHRISTMAS PUDDIKG. 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, two pounds of suet, one 
pound of currants, one pound of raisins, eight eggs, two ounces 
of candied peel, almonds, and spice to your taste. Boil gently 
for seven hours. 

POTATO PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One pound of mashed potatoes, one-fourth of a 
pound of butter, the yolks of six eggs, sweeten to taste, a little 



PIES AND PUDDINGS, 119 

lemou, a few blanched and pounded almonds, a small tea-cup of 
sweet cream, one nutmeg. 

Beat it well and bake half an hour. 

BATTER PUDDING-. 
(German Receipt.) 

Ingredients. — One dozen eggs, one quart of sweet milk, one 
tabie-spoonful of sugar, one cup of flour, one-half a cup of butter. 

Put the milk in a basin set in boiling water, reserving enough 
to wet the flour just as you would prepare a thickening for gravy. 
When the milk is scalding hot, pour in the flour, stirring it 
smooth. Add the butter and sugar. When this mixture is cool 
enough, add the yolks of the eggs well beaten; after that the 
beaten whites ; then pour the whole through a flour sieve into 
the baking dish (there will always be a few lumps in the flour 
paste). The pudding pan must then be placed in a larger one, 
the outside pan being filled with boiling water as you put it in 
the oven. Bake one hour. 

Sauce for same. — One cup of pulverized sugar, one-half cup 
of butter stirred to a cream. Add two eggs, yolks and whites 
beaten separately; stir well and add the juice of a lemon or wine. 

BOILED GINGER PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One cup of molasses, one cup of sweet milk, 
one cup of stoned raisins, three cups of flour, two eggs, one tea- 
spoonful of soda, a little salt, ginger, cinnamon, and cloves, but- 
ter size of a small egg. 

Boil or steam two and one-half hours. 

Sauce. — Pour a cup of sweet milk on a cup of sugar, and one- 
half cup of butter beaten to a cream. 

GINGER PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Six ounces of flour, six ounces of sugar, six eggs, 
eight ounces of preserved ginger, a pint of cream, six ounces of 
butter, a litle salt. 

Put the cream, sugar, butter, and salt in a stew-pan on the fire, 
and as soon as these begin to simmer, take off the stew-pan, 
throw in the flour and stir the whole together quickly; then put 
this paste back again on the fire, and continue stirring it for 



120 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

about five minutes; it must then be withdrawn, and the six eggs 
mixed in gradually with it. The ginger, cut into small pieces, 
must now be added to the preparation, which must then be 
poured into the mold, previously spread with butter. Steam it 
£or an hour and a half, and when done dish up the pudding with 
a custard sauce made with the syrup from the ginger. 

PINE-APPLE PUDDING. 
Made in the same way, substituting pine-apple for ginger. 

BERRY PUDDING. 

One pint of molasses, one tea-spoonful of soda, stirred until 
very light, then add a little salt, one tea-spoon of cloves, one tea- 
spoon of cinnamon, and flour to make a very stiff batter; stir in 
one quart of berries (huckleberries are best) and steam three 
hours. This makes a very large pudding. 

CARAMEL PUDDING. 

Put a handful of loaf sugar to boil with quarter of a pint of 
water until the syrup becomes a deep brown. Warm a small 
basin, pour the syrup in it and keep turning the basin in your 
hand until the inside is completely coated with the syrup, which 
will, by that time, have set. Strain the yolks of eight eggs from 
the whites, and mix them gradually and thoroughly with a pint 
of milk. Pour this mixture into the prepared mold. Lay a piece 
of paper on the top; set it in a sauce-pan full of cold water, 
taking care that the water does not come over the top of the 
mold, put on the cover and let it boil gently by the side of the 
fire one hour. Remove the sauce-pan to a cool place, and when 
the water is quite cold take out the mold and turn out the 
pudding very carefully. 

By using a portion of the whites as well as the yolks, the risk 
of the pudding breaking is avoided, but it will not be as delicate 
as the one made with yolks alone. 

SUNDERLAND PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One quart of milk, eight large table-spoonfuls of 
flour, eight eggs and a little salt. 
Bake in pudding cups and serve with fairy butter. 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 121 

THE QUEEN OF PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. — One pint of fine bread crumbs to one quart of 
milk, one cup of sugar, the beaten yolks of four eggs, the grated 
rind of one lemon, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Bake 
until done but not watery. 

Whip the whites of the eggs stiiBF and beat in a cup of sugar, 
in which has been stirred the juice of one lemon. Spread on the 
pudding a layer of jelly or any sweetmeats you prefer. Pour the 
whites of the eggs over this and replace in the oven and bake 
lightly. To be eaten with cold cream. It is second only to ice 
cream, and in some seasons better. 

GEEEN CORN PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Three pints of milk, two eggs, a heaping table- 
spoonful of sugar, four ears of sweet corn. 

Beat the eggs and sugar together and add the milk. Grate the 
raw corn from the ears and add that. Bake in a brisk oven until 
it is thoroughly cooked. 

MOLASSES PUDDING-STEAMED. 

Ingredients. — One cup of sugar, one cup of molasses, butter 
the size of an egg, one and one-half cups of water, two eggs, five 
cups of flour, three table-spoonfuls of baking powder. 

Steam three hours. Eat with sauce. 

PUFFS. 

Ingredients. — Six table-spoonfuls of fiour, one pint of milk, 
two eggs. 

Bake in cups not quite half full or in gem pans. Serve im- 
mediately with cream and sugar or sweet sauce. 

QUICK PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One egg, one cup of sugar, one table-spoonful 
of melted butter, one cup of sweet milk, one table-spoonful of 
baking powder, three cups of flour. Bake one hour. 

POP PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One pint of milk, three eggs, ten table-spoon- 
fuls of flour, a little salt, one table-spoonful of butter. Bake one- 
half hour. To be eaten with "Fairy Butter." 



122 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

MILK CRACKER PUDDIXG. 

Twelve milk crackers, three eggs, one quart of milk. Sweeten 
and flavor to suit the taste. Break the crackers fine, heat the 
milk to boiling and stir in the eggs, sugar, and flavoring; im- 
mediately pour over the broken crackers and let stand a few 
minutes, then set upon the ice until cold. Eat cold. 

CREAM PUDDII^^G. 

Ingredients. — One and one-half cups of sour milk, one and 
one-half cups of sour cream, four eggs, one-half table-spoonful 
of soda, six heaping table-spoonfuls of flour. 

Bake from a half to three-quarters of an hour. Eat with 
sweet cream. 

CREAM PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One quart of milk, four eggs, four full table- 
spoonfuls of flour. Beat the eggs and flour together with a 
little cold milk, and stir into the quart of milk while warming; 
stir and boil until thick; flavor with lemon or vanilla; pour into 
a dish for the table; spread over the top a cup of sugar. To be 
eaten cold. 

DELMONICO PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One quart of milk, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, 
three table-spoonfuls of corn starch or mazena, yolks of four 
eggs. 

Scald the milk, beat the eggs, sugar, and corn starch or ma- 
zena together, and stir into the boiling milk. Flavor with one 
tea-spoonful of vanilla and half tea-spoonful of lemon ; pour into 
a dish; beat the whites of the eggs and one cup of sugar and 
pour over the top. Set it in the oven and let it brown over. 
Eat cold. 

If mazena be used in place of corn starch, stir it with a little 
cold milk instead of beating with eggs and sugar. 

HOW TO COOK RICE. 

To cook rice, only just enough water should be poured on to 
prevent the rice from burning at the bottom of the pot, which 
should have a close fitting cover, and with a moderate fire the 
rice is steamed rather than boiled until it is nearly done; then 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 123 

the cover is taken off, the surplus steam and moisture allowed to 
escape, and the rice turns out a mass of snow white kernels, each 
separate from the other and as much superior to the usual soggy- 
mass, as a fine mealy potato is superior to the water soaked 
article. 

EICE PUDDIKG. 

Ingredients. — One cup of boiled rice (the rice is measured 
after boiling), yolks of five eggs, grated peel of one lemon, one 
pint of cold milk. Stir all together, add a little salt and bake it. 

Take tlie whites of the eggs, one pound of sugar, the juice of 
the lemon, make a frosting. When the pudding is done cover it 
over with the frosting and set it in the oven until it is a nice 
brown. 

EICE PUDDII^G. 

Put one-half cup of rice in one and one-half cups of cold 
water, let it swell on the stove, then put in one pint of milk and 
let it come to a jelly, but not cook down too much. Beat the 
yolks of three eggs with five spoonfuls of sugar, stir it while 
boiling. Put in a pudding dish and bake, then beat the whites 
of three eggs to a froth with five spoonfuls of sugar, spread it 
on the top and set it in the oven to brown lightly. Put in rai- 
sins if desired. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

Six table-spoonfuls of tapioca, soaked over night in a pint of 
water; scald a quart of milk; stir in the tapioca and let it come 
to a boil; add a little salt, beat the yolks of three eggs and a cup 
of white sugar together and stir into the mixture. Boil like 
custard ; flavor with lemon or vanilla, beat the whites and stir 
quietly into the mixture. To be eaten cold. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 
Pare seven nice tart apples^ remove the cores, and lay them in 
a buttered dish. Take one cup of tapioca (or sago) and pour 
over it one quart of boiling water, let it stand a few minutes; 
add two cups of sugar, one lemon, grate the peel and add the 
juice. Pour over the apples and bake one hour. 



124 PIES AND PUDDINGS. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDIITG. 

One cup of fine bread crumbs, three-fourths of a cup of choc- 
olate wet together with a little milk; add one quart of milk and 
let it come to a boil. When cool add the yolks of four eggs and 
one cup of sugar; then bake slowly. When done ice with the 
whites of the eggs, well beaten, with a little sugar and flavored 
with vanilla. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 

(German Receipt.) 

Ingredients. — Three ounces of grated chocolate, two and one- 
half ounces of butter, two and one-half ounces of butter 
crackers, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, five eggs. 

The butter is rubbed to cream, the yolks, sugar, chocolate, and 
crackers are added and well stirred together until smooth. Then 
the froth of the whites is added and the mass is poured into a 
well buttered pudding mold and baked twenty-five minutes. 
Serve up hot with fruit or red wine sauce. 

CORN STARCH PUDDING. 

(Mrs. Henderson.) 

Ingredients. — One pint of rich milk, two table-spoonfuls of 
corn starch, a scant half-cupful of sugar, whites of three or four 
eggs. 

Beat the eggs to a stiff froth; dissolve the corn starch in 
a little of the milk; stir the sugar into the remainder of the 
milk, which place on the fire. When it begins to boil add the 
dissolved corn starch; stir constantly for a few moments, when 
it will become a smooth paste; now stir in the beaten whites of 
the eggs, and let it remain a little longer to cook the whites of 
the eggs. It can be fiavored with vanilla and put into a form; 
yet it is still better as a 

COCOANUT PUDDING. 

When the preceding pudding is just finished, add half a cocoa- 
nut grated; put it in a mold, serve with whipped cream around 
it, or a sauce of boiled custard made with the yolks of the eggs. 

The same receipt can also be used for a 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 125 

CHOCOLATE PUDDmG. 

When cooked, first flavor the whole with vanilla; now take 
out a third of the pudding; flavor the remainder in the kettle 
with a bar of chocolate, softened, mashed, and dissolved with a 
little milk. Put half of the chocolate pudding in the bottom of 
a plain mold, which has been wet in cold water; smooth the top; 
next make a layer with the white part taken out; smooth it also; 
next the remainder of the chocolate pudding. Serve with 
whipped cream, or a boiled custard, made with the yolks of the 
eggs and flavored with vanilla, around it ; or the one-third por- 
tion of pudding may be flavored with half a bar of chocolate, 
and placed in the center of the two layers of white; or one can 
use the same receipt for a corn starch pudding and flavor it 
with chopped pine-apple, strawberries, or, in winter, with dried 
cherries swollen in water; or it may be flavored with chocolate, 
with the white center part flavored with cocoanut. 

ORANGE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Four sweet oranges, two cups of sugar, one quart 
of milk, three eggs, two dessert-spoonfuls of corn starch, one- 
half cup of powdered sugar. 

Peel the oranges, making sure that every particle of the white 
rind is removed. Cut in thin slices, remove the seeds, lay the 
slices in the bottom of a deep pudding dish and cover with one 
cup of sugar; make a custard of the milk, the yolks of the eggs, 
the corn starch, and the other cup of sugar. Pour it over the 
oranges; beat the whites to a stiff froth, add half a cup of pow- 
dered sugar, put it over the pudding and brown it lightly in the 
oven. 

LEMON PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — The juice and grated rind (rubbed on sugar) of 
three lemons, half a pint of cream, three ounces of bruised mac- 
aroons, six yolks and the whites of two eggs, whipped, one-fourth 
of a nutmeg, grated, a little cinnamon powder, six ounces of 
pounded sugar, and a very little salt. 

Mix the above all together in a large basin, and work the in- 
gredients together with a whisk for about ten minutes. Next, 
put a border of puff paste around the edge of a pudding dish, 



126 PIES AND PUDDINQS. 

spread the dish with butter, pour the batter into it, strew some 
shred pistachio kernals or almonds on the top, and bake it for 
about half an hour (at moderate heat). When done, shake some 
sifted sugar over it, and serve. 

ORANGE PUDDING. 

This is made as the above; double the quantity of oranges may 
be used for this purpose, owing to their not containing so much 
acid as lemons; but the rind of one and a half will suffice for the 
zest. 

LEMON PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One quart of milk, four eggs, three table-spoon- 
fuls of corn starch, one lemon, five table-spoonfuls of sugar. 

Cook the milk, starch, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar to- 
gether; beat the yolks and add them and the grated rind and 
juice of the lemon. Add two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar 
to the whites of the eggs, well beaten, and put over the pudding. 
Let it brown nicely and put on the table. 

LEMON PUDDING. 

Mix three table-spoonfuls of corn starch in water, very thin; 
pour in three coffee-cups of boiling water; stir constantly until 
it thickens; add two coffee-cups of sugar, the grated rind and 
juice of two lemons, two eggs well beaten, and a little salt; bake 
twenty minutes. Eat cold. 

BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 

Boil one quart of sweet milk and turn it on one pint of sifted 
meal; stir it well; add three table-spoonfuls of wheat flour and 
one pint of cold milk. Beat three eggs with three table-spoon- 
fuls of sugar, stir into the pudding, add two tea-spoonfuls of 
salt, and two tea-spoonfuls each of cinnamon or grated nutmeg 
and butter or suet. If the pudding is liked very rich let it bake 
six minutes, then stir in one-half pound of raisins and a tea-cup 
of milk or cream. 

BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One pint of sweet milk, one-half pint of Indian 
meal, one pint of molasses, one-half a cup of butter, three eggs, 
well beaten, a cup of cold sweet milk. 



PIES AND PUDDINGS. 127 

Boil the milk in a double kettle and stir in tlie meal ; let it 
stand on the back part of the stove an hour; melt the butter and 
molasses together and add to the hot mixture and allow it to 
stand a half hour. The eggs and milk are added just before 
baking. Bake three-fourths of an hour. 

BOILED mDIAN" PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One pint of sour milk, made into a very thin 
batter with Indian meal and allowed to stand one hour. Then 
add one tea-spoonful of soda, one-half cup of molasses, one-half 
a cup of beef suet chopped fine, one beaten egg and salt. Boil 
three hours. 

BOILED INDIAN" PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One cup each of corn meal, flour, sweet milk, 
chopped raisins, suet, molasses; one tea-spoonful of soda, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, spice to taste. Steam three hours. 

CABINET PUDDING. 

Spread the inside of a plain mold with butter, and ornament 
the sides with dried cherries and candied citron; fill the mold 
with alternate layers of slices of sponge cake and macaroons; 
then fill up a mold with lemon custard made with yolks of six 
eggs, a pint of milk or cream, six ounces of sugar, and the grated 
rind of a lemon. This custard must not be set, but merely 
mixed up. Steam the pudding in the usual way for about an 
hour and a half, and when done, dish it up with a custard. 

SNOW PUDDING. 

Dissolve three table-spoonfuls of corn starch in a little cold 
water; pour one pint of boiling water over this, stirring all the 
time; stir in the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs, and steam 
ten minutes. Before steaming add a little salt, and flavor to 
taste. 

Serve with sauce made as follows: Yolks of three eggs, one cup 
of sugar, one cup of milk, and a piece of butter the size of a wal- 
nut; boil and flavor. 



OHAPTEE IX 



SWEET SAUCES. 

PUDDING SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — Three table-spoonfuls of white sugar, one even of 
flour, a piece of butter the size of a hen's egg^ stirred to a cream, 
two table-spoonfuls of mace compound, a cup of boiling water. 

Mix the sugar, flour, and butter, stir in the mace compound 
and add the water; set into a kettle of boiling water, stirring it 
constantly, until the flour is cooked. 

SAUCES EOR PLUM PUDDING. 

1. Foam Sauce. — One cup of white sugar, three crips of but- 
ter, one table-spoonful of flour. Beat to a cream, put it on the 
stove, add a wine-glass of sherry or half a wine-glass of brandy; 
stir quickly until it is all foam. 

2. Hard Sauce. — Four ounces of butter, five ounces of sugar, 
beaten to a cream; pile it on the dish. You can add a scrape of 
nutmeg or a little lemon juice when beating it, or brandy, as you 
like — not enough to thin it, only to flavor. 

FAIRY OR NUN'S BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — One table-spoonful of butter and three table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar stirred together until very light, 
one lemon. 

Cover the top with the grated rind of a lemon and squeeze 
over the whole the juice of a lemon. 

CARAMEL SAUCE. 
(New York Cooking School.) 
Dissolve six ounces of cut loaf sugar in half a pint of boiling 
water; add a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-zest, and two 

129 



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T'O.OI[I1I<& SAXOL 

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jnioE aTir crasea riTif] of coib lfi—«i- 

3eai xke yolki wlA . •JihpBnjrairi xaod aui Jmee di xiif iemcm.; 
bear t.Vvf "wniTieg trr tfagmdiveB ami 'V^ies. idiff max 'wxLti iih.e sugaac 
and yoIkE. Tbe mimtif ImfvrB it s sent to the table stir in iBp- 
idhr at^-ciQ) of bmlrnp- M'aiet. 

GEEMAjr SATJCE. 

Z . - yolkt 01 ruTD eg^ obib taibb^pcHiiifal of 

BI-- - - pli of BiieirrT. Pirr oi'er iie &b in a Baoee- 

jfflu anii t>^i rapidrr -wdiii an egg vidsk unial it tiD^ams. Do 

I" ■ - " M'jiL or ir "vrill cnrdlt. 

^Mrt. Seudergon.J 

Pm twB tqBeb anl iiii£ 'vriiok egg. aisD a Bcani ^a}f 
ai sugar into a little stew-jran: l>Bai them veil forafe 
izt%. Then put the sanee-pan intD anatbfiai, GanisEaBaag 
-water, over xne lire: beat the eggs aod ffi^arlBaldy tvii^ 
-vrhisk. Trime jon grahnaHj poor in a sesaAlasSi. isA-tsafhA. €f 
fiherrr: vhen the sherry is all in the egg wSi he^aa. to flwdbwii; 
then tsiks: it from ihe £ie and add the juice of a qmrter of a 
Bmall lemon, t Qitantitr sn&sisnt for eoz 



MACE COlflPOTISrD. 
(Mome Meifsenper £ecgipf BtakJ 

lS»tibe &£ pk^e of " bIosttt -mns "' in pidSn^ anisanoBB. 

Soak half anormoeaf mace eight horns in one t^nnip of lemcai 
Jmae, add isaiif a t^-ciip of boiling itrater and scald itwij 



CHAPTEB X. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS .\-\D SOUFFLEES. 

CTST-LZT'S. 



iigbi 



of mi*' 

stircaBsc^ 
sfeove aK'i 



apnek 



132 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND SOUPFLEES. 

or three table-spoonfuls o£ boiling water, then strain into the hot 
custard; stir until the gelatine is perfectly blended with the cus- 
tard and then set the whole away to cool. Now whip the cream; 
use a Dover egg-beater or a large egg-whisk, and be sure that the 
cream is almost ice cold. Allow two table-spoonfuls of powdered 
sugar to a pint of cream, flavor to taste, and then whisk it 
quickly and steadily until like the beaten whites of eggs. When 
the custard is perfectly cold and is beginning to " set " or jelly, 
stir it briskly for a few moments to even it, then blend delicately 
with the whipped cream. If these directions are followed the 
result must be a success. 

souffl£:es. 

These depend a good deal on the thoroughness with which the 
eggs are beaten, the quickness with which the materials are com- 
bined and the care taken in cooking them. They should be 
served immediately upon being done. 

If nut meats are to be blanched, boiling water should be poured 
over them and they should remain in the hot water until the 
skin will easily slip oiBf. Then turn them into cold water, remove 
the skins and dry the meats before pounding or chopping. It is 
always best to add a few drops of rose-water occasionally to 
almonds while pounding them. 

Always, in preparing oranges for souffldes or creams, be partic- 
ular to remove every particle of the white coat that lies under 
the skin, otherwise the cream or soufflee will be bitter. 

BOILED CUSTAED. 

Allow five whole eggs, the yolks of four and the whites of two, 
or eight yolks to a quart of milk, one tea-cupful of sugar, a pinch 
of salt, and one tea-spoonful of flavoring. Then proceed accord- 
ing to directions. The yolks of eggs make a more delicate cus- 
tard than when both yolks and whites are used. 

FOR CHOCOLATE CUSTARD, 
allow two table-spoonfuls of chocolate to a quart of milk and 
four eggs. 

BAKED CUSTARD. 

This is made with the same ingredients as boiled custard, but 
baked instead of boiled. My way is to heat the milk and pro- 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 133 

ceed exactly as for boiled custard until I come to strain the 
mixed milk, sugar, and eggs. I strain this into a deep dish, put 
this in a pan partly filled with boiling water, and place the whole 
in the oven to remain until the custard is firm but not watery. 
It can be baked in custard cups in the same way. 

A delicate way to flavor custards is to rub the loaf sugar with 
which they are sweetened on the rind of the lemon until the 
sugar has absorbed the oil that gives the rind color and flavor. 
This yellow rind may also be pared ofi^, very thin, so as not to in- 
clude any of the white underneath it, and boiled in the milk 
until it imparts the desired flavor. 

One or two pieces of stick-cinnamon boiled in the milk gives 
an agreeable flavor. In the spring, a few tender, fresh peach 
leaves boiled in the milk flavor it delightfully. 

REKNET CUSTARD, OR CURDS AND WHEY. 

(Detroit Free Press.) 

Take a piece of rennet an inch long, or a tea-spoonful of spirits 
in which rennet has been kept, or a tea-spoonful of liquid rennet 
(such as is kept by druggists and is apt to be weak), to each quart 
of milk. Season with vanilla or lemon and a table-spoonful of 
sugar to each quart. Set in a warm place near the fire, closely 
covered. Draw a spoon through gently from side to side and 
down to the bottom of the dish, for half a minute or more before 
covering. Look at it from time to time, and if in the course of 
an hour there are no signs of stiffening, add more rennet. When 
it is firm like hlanc mange., and before the whey separates from 
the curd, remove the rennet, if you have not used it in liquid 
form, and set in a cold place until wanted. Grate nutmeg over 
the dish, and serve with powdered sugar and cream. 

The nicest rennet is home-made. Buy a calf's stomach from 
your butcher, having him first scour it thoroughly inside and out 
with salt. Tack it upon a frame and dry in the sun a day or 
two. Cut in squares, put them in a bottle and fill with alcohol, 
or pack down with salt, in which case the rennet to be used must 
be soaked half an hour in water, washed well and tied to a string, 
that it may be easily removed from the curd before using. 

The dried or salted rennet may sometimes be bought of the 
druggists, or in the markets. Not to be omitted in a list of the 



134 custards; ceeams, and soufflees. 

virtues of curds and whey is its economy and also the ease with 
which it is prepared. 

This is so delicate and delicious, as well as so easily prepared, 
that I recommend it heartily to all my readers. 

TO MAKE SLIP. 

Make a quart of rich milk moderately warm; then stir into it 
one lar^e spoonful of liquid rennet, set it by, and when cold it 
will be as stiff as jelly. It should be made only a few hours be- 
fore it is used or it will be tough and watery; in summer set the 
dish on ice after it has jellied. Eat with powdered sugar, cream, 
and a sprinkle of nutmeg. 

CURDS AND CREAM. 

Prepare one quart of milk as for the slip, and let it stand until 
just before it is to be served; then take the curd up carefully 
with a skimmer and lay it on a sieve; when the whey has 
drained off, put the curds in a dish and surround them with 
cream, and cover with powdered sugar. 

APPLE CUSTARD. 

Put one pound of loaf sugar in a stew-pan with one pint of 
water and twelve cloves; boil and skim it; then put in twelve good 
sized tart apples pared, cored, and sliced, and stew them till clear* 
and but little of the syrup remains; lay them in a deep dish, re- 
move the cloves, and when they are cool pour in a quart of rich 
boiled custard ; set the dish in a pan partly filled with hot water, 
and put in the oven until the custard is firm, 

APRICOT CREAM. 

Ingredients. — One pint of sweet cream, one table-spoonful of 
sugar, one-half can of apricots, one-half ounce of gelatine, the 
juice of one lemon. 

Whip the cream and sugar to a stiff froth; press the apricots, 
leaving out the syrup, through a hair sieve; put the syrup over 
the fire in a stew-pan and simmer until it is reduced to half the 
quantity; add the pulp, reduced syrup, lemon juice, and dissolved 
gelatine to the whipped cream. 

If it is desired to ornament the mold, pour a little dissolved 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 135 

gelatine into it and let it run over the bottom and sides; when 
partly set, stick into it candied cherries, citron cut in ornamental 
shapes, angelica, pistachio nuts, or whatever suits thefp,ncy; fill 
the mold with the cream and set in a cold place until firm. 

PINE-APPLE CREAM. 

This is made in the same way except that the pine-apple is cut 
in small dice instead of being pressed through a sieve. No lemon 
juice is added. 

HAMBUEG CREAM. 

Stir together the juice and rind of two large lemons and one 
cup of sugar; add the well beaten yolks of eight eggs, put all in 
a tin pail and set in a pot of boiling water (if you have not a 
double boiler); stir for three minutes, take from the fire, add the 
well beaten whites of the eggs, and serve, when cold, in custard 
glasses. 

COFFEE CREAM. 

Roast four ounces of Mocha cofiee berries in a small stew-pan 
over a fire, stirring it the whole time with a wooden spoon until 
it assumes a light brown color; then blow away the small burnt 
particles, and throw the roasted coffee into a stew-pan contain- 
ing half a pint of boiling milk or cream, put the lid on the stew- 
pan and set it aside to allow the infusion to draw out the flavor 
of the coffee. Next strain this through a napkin into a stew- 
pan containing four yolks of eggs and six ounces of sugar, and a 
very small pinch of salt, stir the cream over the fire until it be- 
gins to thicken, then quicken the motions of the spoon, and 
when the yolks of eggs are sufficiently set, strain the cream 
through a sieve into a large basin. Mix a gill of whipped cream 
and three-fourths of an ounce of Cox's gelatine in with this, 
pour the whole into a mold ready set in ice for the purpose, and 
when the cream has become firm, dip the mold in warm water 
and turn the cream out on a dish. 

• CHOCOLATE CREAM. 

Grate four ounces of vanilla chocolate, put this into a stew- 
pan with four ounces of sugar, four yolks of eggs, and a half 
pint of cream; stir the whole over a fire until it begins to 



136 CUSTARDS, OEEAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 

thicken, and the yolks of eggs are sufficiently set without allow- 
ing them to curdle; strain through a hair sieve, with pressure, 
into a basin; add a gill of whipped cream, and three-quarters of 
an ounce of Cox's gelatine; mix the whole well together, and 
pour into a mold previously imbedded in ice to receive it. 

LEMOIT CEEAM. 

To he eaten cold and served in custard cups or glasses. — Pare 
the rind very thin from four fresh lemons; squeeze the juice and 
strain it; put both into a quart of water, sweeten to taste, add 
the whites of six eggs, beaten stiff; set it over the fire and stir 
until it thickens, but do not let it boil; then pour it into a bowl, 
let it cool, strain, return to the fire and add the beaten yolks of 
the six eggs; stir till quite thick. 

Orange cream is made in the same way, but requires more 
juice to flavor it well. 

GOOSEBERRY CREAM. 

Clean two quarts of green gooseberries; put them in a stew- 
pan with their weight in loaf sugar, and a very little water; when 
sufficiently stewed, pass the pulp through a sieve; when cold add 
enough rich boiled custard to make the mixture like thick cream; 
put it in a glass dish, and heap whipped cream on the top. 

BAYARIAI!^ CREAMS. 

The following Bavarian creams are taken from "Practical 
Cooking, and Dinner Giving," Mrs. Mary F. Henderson's valua- 
ble Cook Book. 

Bavarian Cream with Vanilla. 
Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth. Boil another pint of 
cream or rich milk, with a vanilla bean, and two table-spoonfuls 
of sugar, until it is well flavored; then take it off the fire and 
add half a box of Nelson's or Cox's gelatine soaked for an hour 
in half a cupful of water, in a warm place near the range; when 
slightly cooled stir in the yolks of four eggs, well beaten. When 
it has become quite cold, and begins to thicken, stir it without 
ceasing a few minutes, until it is very smooth, then stir in the 
whipped cream lightly until it is well mixed. Put it into a mold 
or molds, and set on the ice, or in some cool place. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 137 

Bavarian Cream with Chocolate. 

is made as the preceding cream, adding two sticks of chocolate, 
soaked and smoothed, to the yolks of the eggs. 

Bavarian ('ream with Strawberries. 
After picking two pounds and a half of strawberries, squeeze 
them through a colander, and add six ounces of sugar to the 
juice; when the sugar is dissolved, add half a box of gelatine 
soaked as before described. Place it on the ice, stir it smooth 
when it begins to set, then stir in a pint of whipped cream ; put 
it into a mold or molds, and serve with fresh strawberries 
around it. 

Bavarian Cream with Almonds. 

Take three ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, 
blanch and skin them, and put them into a pan on a moderate 
fire, stirring them continually. As soon as they have acquired 
a fine yellow color, take them off the fire, and when cold pound 
them into fine pieces. Then add a pint of cream or rich milk 
(nearly boiling) and two or three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and 
half a package of gelatine, which has been soaked as before de- 
scribed. Put it upon the ice, and when about to thicken, stir it 
until it is very smooth, then stir in lightly a pint of whipped 
cream, and put it into a mold. 

CARAMEL CREAM. 

Boil two quarts of rich new milk and mix in some caramel as 
below. Beat up three yolks and one whole egg together and add 
to the milk. Pass the whole through a fine hair sieve, and put- 
ting it in a basin in a sauce-pan of boiling water, cook until it 
thickens. This cream is served in glasses like custard. For car- 
amel take four ounces of sugar and stir over a good fire with a 
spoonful of water, until it becomes a rich golden brown. 

BURNT CREAM. 

(Francatelli.) 

Put an ounce of pounded sugar into a stew-pan, with the 

grated rind of one lemon; stir these with a wooden spoon over a 

slow fire until the sugar begins to assume a rather light brown 

color; then pour in half a pint of cream, add to this four ounces 



138 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 

of sugar, four yolks of eggs, a little salt, and stir the whole over 
a fire until the eggs are set; then strain the cream through a 
hair sieve into a large basin, and mix it with a gill of whipped 
cream and three-fourths of an ounce of Cox's gelatine. Pour the 
cream into a mold imbedded in rough ice. 

CAEAMEL CUSTARD. 

Put one quart of milk over the fire in a custard kettle. Beat 
five eggs with a small cup of sugar till light; when the milk 
boils pour it over the beaten eggs and sugar, stirring carefully 
all the time. Return to the fire for a moment until the custard 
thickens, when it should be at once removed and put in a cool 
place. 

For flavoring put half a cup of loaf sugar over the fire in a small 
sauce-pan. Watch it carefully, and when it melts stir it con- 
stantly so it may brown evenly. When it is a dark rich color 
add enough boiling water to make a thick syrup. Flavor the 
custard to taste with this syrup, pour into custard cups and set 
in a moderate oven till firm in the center. This amount of cara- 
mel is about right for a quart of custard. 

FLUMMERY. 

One measure of jelly, one measure of cream, and half a measure 
of wine; boil fifteeen minutes, stirring all the time; sweeten and 
add a spoonful of rose-water; pour into a mold, and when set, 
turn on to a platter, and surround it with whipped cream. 

BLANC MANGE. 

(Detroit — Old fashioned and genuine.) 

Take four ounces of sweet almonds, blanched, and half an 
ounce of bitter almonds; pound them in a wedge-wood mortar, 
moistening them gradually with orange flower water; mix this 
with one quart of fresh cream. Have the largest half of a box 
of Cox's gelatine soaking in half a cup of cold water one hour. 
Set your cream and almonds on the fire, stirring constantly; 
when it comes to a scald, pour in the gelatine and stir till it dis- 
solves. Put in molds. 



CDSTAEDS, CREAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 139 

BLANC MANGE. 

Break an ounce of isinglass and pour on it one pint of boiling 
water; let it stand all night, and add the next morning one quart 
of rich milk or cream; boil until the isinglass is completely dis- 
solved; strain it; put in two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched 
and pounded; sweeten it and pour into a mold. Serve with rasp- 
berry cream or whipped cream. 

TO MAKE A HEN'S NEST. 

Get five even sized eggs; make a hole at one end, empty them, 
and fill the shells with blanc mange; when cold and stifi", break 
off the shells. Pare the yellow rind, very thin and in narrow 
strips, from six lemons; boil these in water until tender, then drop 
for a few moments in a hot syrup of sugar and water; drain 
them and then fill a small, oval dish, half full of jelly; put the 
straw on in the shape of a nest and lay the eggs in it. A delic- 
ious dessert for Easter Sunday. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 
(For a pint mold.) 

Ingredients. — Sponge cake, thick, sweet cream one-half pint, 
three tea-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, one-fourth ounce of gela- 
tine. 

Line a charlotte mold with sponge cake, fitting the pieces care- 
fully together. Whisk the cream to a stiff froth with the pre- 
viously melted gelatine, the sugar, and a few drops of vanilla; 
pour this mixture into the mold, covering it with a slice of 
sponge cake the size of the mold; place the mold over it to be- 
come cold and firm. Turn out when ready to serve. 

Simple whipped cream, with the whites of three eggs beaten 
stiff and delicately stirred in makes as good a Charlotte Russe as 
one could wish. 

A stale loaf of sponge cake is better than a mold. Cut off the 
top slice and lay it one side; scoop out the center of the loaf; 
fill with whipped cream; replace the top, and set the loaf away 
in the ice-chest till needed. 

APPLE CHARLOTTE. 

First of all, some apple marmalade must be prepared as fol- 
lows: Let two or three dozen apples be pared, cored, sliced up, 



140 OUSTAEDS, CREAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 

and placed in a stew-pan witli one pound of sugar, two ounces 
of butter, and some lemon peel and cinnamon tied up togther; 
moisten with half a pint of water, place the lid on the stew-pan, 
and set the apples to boil sharply ovfer a quick fire until they are 
melted; then remove the lid and with a wooden spoon continue 
stirring the marmalade over a brisk fire until it is reduced to a 
rather stiff consistency. 

A plain round charlotte mold must now be lined at the bot- 
tom with small thin circular pieces of bread, dipped in clarified 
butter and placed so as to overlap each other until the bottom 
of the mold is well covered. Next cut some oblong squares of 
thin bread, also dipped in clarified butter, and set these up the 
sides of the mold over lapping each other, in order that they may 
thus be enabled to hold firmly to the sides of the mold. Fill the 
cavity with the apple marmalade, cover in the top with a thin 
circular piece of bread dipped in butter, place the charlotte on a 
baking sheet, and bake it in a rather brisk oven, of a light color; 
and when done, turn it out on a dish, glaze it on the top Avith 
sifted sugar, pour some diluted apricot jam, or any other fruit 
jam, around the base, and serve. 

LEMON SOUFFLIEE. 

Ingredients.. — Two ounces of flour, one ounce of butter, one 
ounce of sugar, one-half pint of milk, grated rind of two lem- 
ons, two eggs. 

Mix the flour and milk together perfectly smooth; add the 
sugar and butter and put in a sauce-pan over the fire ; stir con- 
stantly until it boils when it should be quite thick; now take it 
off the stove and stir in the yolks of the two eggs and the grated 
lemon peel ; beat the whites to a stiff" froth and add gradually 
and very gently to the mixture. Put in a well buttered mold 
and steam one-half to three-quarters of an hour. 

To be eaten with boiled custard flavored with lemon. 

APPLE SOUFFLEE. 

Ingredients. — Six good sized apples, two ounces of sugar, a 
table-spoonful of water, one and one-half ounces of flour, grated 
rind of two lemons, one ounce of butter, one-half gill of milk, 
three eggs. 

Pare and core the apples and stew them until tender with the 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 141 

sugar and water; then rub them through a sieve (there should 
be one-half pound of the pulp); work into this pulp the flour, 
the grated rind of lemon, the butter and the milk; stir over the 
fire until it thickens; then add the yolks of two of the eggs and 
one whole egg to the hot mixture; whip the whites of the two 
eggs to a stiff froth and add gently. Steam in a well buttered 
mold one-half hour. Eat with cream or boiled custard. 

BAKED OMELETTE SOUFFLEE. 

Ingredients. — Whites of six eggs, yolks of four, three ounces 
of sugar, one-half ounce of flour, one teaspoonful extract of 
vanilla. 

Stir the yolks and sugar together for ten minutes; beat the 
whites to a stiff froth; add the flour veVy lightly to the yolks and 
sugar at the end of the ten minutes' beating; stir in the vanilla; 
blend the beaten whites with the mixture, quickly and delicately; 
bake ten minutes in a hot oven. To be served immediately. 

OMELETTE SOUFFLEE. 

Ingredients. — The yolks of four and whites of six eggs, five 
tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar, vanilla or grated peel of one- 
half a lemon. 

Yolks of eggs, sugar and seasoning are well stirred until very 
stiff; then the stiff froth of the whites is added and carefully 
mixed in. The mass is then poured on to a flat round baking 
dish, which must be well warmed before buttering. Place in a 
quick oven and bake fifteen minutes. 

ORANGE SOUFFLEE. 

Make a soft custard with one pint of milk, the yolks of five 
eggs, and half a tea-cupful of sugar. Grate the rind of one orange 
and flavor the custard with it. Pare four large oranges, making 
sure to take every hit of the Avhite rind off; slice thin, take out 
the seeds, put in the bottom of a pudding dish, and pour over 
them the hot custard. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff 
froth, add seven table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, put over the 
top of the custard and orange, and bake a light brown. Serve 
cold. 



142 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND SOUFFLEES. 

SOUFFLlfeE OF RICE. 

Ingredients. — Three ounces of rice, five ounces of sugar, two 
ounces of butter, five eggs, one lemon, a pint of milk, and a little 
salt. 

Wash the rice and parboil it in water for five minutes; then 
put in a stew-pan with the sugar, butter, milk and salt, and set 
this to simmer very gently on a slow fire for about an hour, by 
which time the grains of the rice will have become quite soft; 
the whole should now be well worked with a wooden spoon, and 
the five yolks of eggs, with the rind of the lemon rabbed on 
sugar, should then be added, and if the rice be too firm, a little 
cream also. The five whites of eggs must be whipped very firm, 
then lightly mixed in with the preparation, and poured into the 
soufflee or any plain mold,' baked for about three-quarters of ar 
hour, and served immediately 



OHAPTEE XI. 




ICES. 

fi get ready to freeze your cream is half the battle. The 
ice should be broken fine, the salt should be coarse and 
well mixed with the ice, the proportion being about one 
third salt to two-thirds ice. It greatly facilitates freez- 
ing to have the cream or custard well chilled by having it on 
the ice for two hours, before you begin to freeze. Put the 
freezer into a tub, and fill the wooden bucket in which it turns 
with the pounded ice and salt; then fill in the cream and turn 
steadily until it becomes stiff. It is really better not to drain the 
water off while freezing, as the ice cold water and ice together 
make a more complete surrounding for the freezer than the ice 
and salt unmelted. When the cream is frozen, carefully re- 
move the cover, take out the dasher, replace the cover, stop the 
hole, cover with a clean cloth, and pack well with ice and salt. 

In making water ices, it is better to boil the sugar and water, 
making a thin syrup, and then add the lemon juice, or fruit 
juice. It does not take nearly so many eggs to make the ice 
smooth when mixed in this way. 

ICE CREAM. 

To one quart of rich cream take four table-spoonfuls of sugar; 
beat the yolks of two eggs to a creamy froth; stir them into the 
cream; strain the cream into the freezer, and add the whites of 
the eggs beaten very light with three tablespoonf uls of pow- 
dered sugar. 

This cream cannot be surpassed. Flavor, if possible, by boil- 
ing a vanilla bean in a little milk, and adding it when cold. 
Burnet's extract of vanilla comes next. Flavor somewhat more 
heavily than for custard. 

143 



144 ICES. 

ICE CREAM. 

Make a rich boiled custard, flavor to taste, cool thoroughly and 
freeze. 

ICE CREAM. 
(Home Messenger Receipt Book.) 

Boil two quarts of milk, into which stir a pint of cold milk 
that has had four level table-spoonfuls of arrow root mixed 
smoothly in it, then scald, but not boil; when cold add two 
quarts of cream, a table-spoonful of vanilla or other flavoring, 
and two pints of sugar; put in the freezer and turn until well 
chilled, then add the whites of six eggs beaten to a stiff froth. 

RASPBERRY ICE CREAM. 

Make a quart of rich boiled custard; when cold pour it on a 
quart of ripe red raspberries; mash them in the custard, pass 
through a sieve, sweeten, and freeze. 

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. 
This is made in the same way. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM. 

Scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate fine, put it in a quart 
of milk, with one-half pound of sugar; boil it until the choco- 
late is dissolved, stirring it continually; make a custard of this 
with six eggs; flavor with vanilla; cool and freeze. 

COFFEE CREAM. 

Roast half a pint of coffee a rich even brown, being careful 
not to burn a single grain; pour over while still hot a quart of 
rich sweet milk; cover closely and leave one hour; then sweeten 
to taste, put over the fire, and when scalding hot stir it into the 
beaten yolks of eight eggs; strain, return to the fire to thicken, 
cool and freeze. 

ALMOIO) CREAM. 

Blanch and dry one pound of sweet almonds; pound them to 
a paste in a wedge-wood mortar, using a few drops of rose-water 
to facilitate the progress; mix into this paste one quart of rich 
cream and one cupful of sugar. Freeze. 

The kernels of the common black walnut, prepared the same 
way, make an excellent cream. 



lOES. 145 

LEMON ICE. 
(Home Messenger Receipt Book.) 

Take the juice of four lemons, add about three pints of thin 
syrup made with about one pint of sugar. Into every quart, 
when it begins to freeze, stir the whites of two eggs beaten very 
light, with a little powdered sugar. This will make it smooth. 

Any kind of water ice may be made in this way, by mixing 
the strained juice of the fruit, currant, raspberry, strawberry, 
etc., with syrup flavored to taste, and add the whites of eggs 
when it begins to freeze. 

LEMON ICE. 

Make a quart of rich lemonade; whip the whites of six eggs to 
a stiff froth; mix them well with the lemonade, and freeze. 

The juice of cherries, or of currants, mixed with water and 
sugar, and prepared in the same way, makes a very delicate water 
ice. 

10 



CHAPTER III. 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

GEJ^ERAL REMARKS. 

F we cut a piece of meat in thin strips, and wash it in 
several waters, we shall discover that we have left a 
bundle of almost colorless fibres. Upon examining the 
waters in which it is washed, you will find the extractive 
juices of the flesh, blood, and all the materials soluble in cold 
water. Take now the bundle of fibres and plunge it into boiling 
water. It will contract and shrivel at the ends and if left boil- 
ing long enough, will shrink and toughen the whole length. 
Heat now the water in which the meat was washed, and as it 
approaches the the boiling point a thick scum will be seen float- 
ing in the water or gathering on the surface. This is chiefly 
one form of albumen, a most valuable ingredient in the meat. 
By this simple experiment you may learn several things; 

1. The juices of the meat which give it flavor, and add so 
much to its nutritive power, as well as give it its peculiar color, 
a portion of the albumen and such salts as are soluble in cold 
water, have been washed out. Meat, therefore, soaked in water, 
loses a large portion of that which gives it value as food. 

2. Upon heatir.g the water containing the juices, etc., ex- 
tracted from the }:)eef, the albumen it contains is hardened, or 
coagulated. 

3. By applying heat to the fibres they are made to contract, 
and become hard and tough, but by leaving them in water some- 
thing lower in temperature than boiling, they ai"e softened and 
made tender. 

All this knowledge can be directly applied in our methods of 
cooking meats. 

147 



148 SOUPS AND MEATS. 

Stock is simply a strong, highly-flavored extract of meat. 
How shall we prepare it? By putting the meat, of course, into 
cold water and heating it very gradually to near the boiling 
point, thus allowing the water to reach every portion of the 
fibre which gives it shape. To do this most effectually you 
should cut the meat into small pieces. Break up the bones also, 
and add them to the meat and cold water. They will add some- 
thing, both of flavor and actual value, to the stock. If instead 
of stock I desire to prepare a piece of boiled meat for the table, 
how shall I proceed? By plunging the meat at once into boil- 
ing water. And why? Because by so doing the ends of the 
fibres will contract, and the albumen distributed over the sur- 
face will coagulate, both serving to prevent the escape of the 
juices and sealing them up in the interior of the meat. Shall I 
continue to boil the meat rapidly until thoroughly cooked? No, 
because so great a degree of .heat will shrivel the fibre its entire 
length, and make the meat tough and leathery. It should 
therefore be subjected to a fierce heat onlj'^ long enough to seal 
the ends of the fibres, and then simmer gently until done. The 
same philosophy applies to roasting and broiling. A strong 
heat at first, and then a more moderate temperature until the 
process is completed. When meat is cooked for the table by any 
method whatever, the whole aim should be to preserve the juices 
in the interior of the cut, and then to apply an even and gentle 
heat until ready to serve. Beefsteak should never be pounded, 
since then the fibres are so torn and lacerated as to afford ready 
escape to all the juices. For the same reason a roast should not 
be skewered to keep it in shape, but tied rather. Never stick a 
fork into a roast, steak, or boiling piece. If necessary to turn 
it, use a spoon or wooden ladle. The general theory as to the 
cooking of meats, is that all red meats should be underdone, or 
rare, and all white meats well done. We have beef as an exam- 
ple in the first class, and veal or pork in the second. 

Game birds, and game in general, will, as a rule, come under 
the first class — domestic fowls under the second. 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTEY, AND GAME. 149 

GENERAL EEMARKS. 

The pieces of meat for soup are portions of either the shank, 
the shin, or the neck. The two last named are to be preferred, 
as containing proportionately more gelatine. The meat should 
either be cut in small pieces or gashed many times, and the bone 
should be broken. Every particle of fat should be removed. 
Greasy soup is an abomination, and no greasy food is either 
good or wholesome. The advantage of making stock for soup 
the day before it is served is, that when perfectly cold the grease 
will collect in a cake on the top, and can then be entirely re- 
moved. The water in which stock is made should never boil 
rapidly or irregularly, but should simmer slowly and evenly. If 
it gets to boiling too fast, pour in a little cold water to reduce 
the temperature. This will also aid the scum to rise to the sur- 
face. It will be noticed that as the water approaches the boil- 
ing point a thick scum will appear. If a clear stock or soup is 
required, this must be carefully skimmed, oflf. It is, however, 
nothing unclean, or unfit for food, but on the contrary is a most 
valuable and nutritious element, being albumen. If the stock is 
intended for immediate use, add carrot, turnip, an onion stuck 
with cloves, and a bouquet of herbs; namely, parsley, marjoram, 
thyme, and a bay leaf. If, however, it is desired to keep the 
stock for several days, and use from it gradually, do not add the 
vegetables until the day the soup is to be served, as they are apt 
to make the stock sour. 

A little salt is used, as it also aids the scum to rise, but it is 
better to defer the full seasoning until the soup is prepared for 
the table. Use pepper corns, whole spices, and herbs in the 
sprig, for seasoning soups, as thej'' do not cloud and discolor 
them, and they can be strained out easily when the soup is 
served. When the stock has simmered the full time, strain 
through a colander into an earthen vessel. It should never be 
left to cool in the kettle in which it was cooked. 

EICH STOCK. 

Cut the meat from the bones and divide it into rather small 
pieces of even size; remove all fat; break the bones, and take out 



150 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

the marrow, as this will make the stock greasy. Use one pint 
of cold water to one pound of meat and bone, and an extra pint 
to every four pounds of meat and bone, to allow for evaporation; 
add a half tea-spoonful of salt to aid the scum in rising. Put 
over the fire in a covered pot and bring it quickly to a boil; skim 
occasionally, and pour in from time to time a half tea-cup of cold 
water, which will also help the scum to rise. 

Scrape two carrots, pare one turnip, one large onion, which 
should be stuck with two or three cloves; wash half a head of 
celery if it can be obtained, and put all in the stock pot. Tie 
together a few sprigs of parsley, marjoram, thyme, and a bay 
leaf, and put these also in the stock pot ; add a few pepper corns. 
Let the stock simmer one hour for every pound of meat and 
bone. When it has simmered the requisite time take the stock 
pot off the fire; have a sieve ready over the jar large enough to 
contain the stock, put a clean cloth in the sieve, and pour the 
contents of the stock pot through it. Set it away to cool. 
When cool, remove all the fat which will have collected at the 
top in a cake; wring a cloth out of hot water and wipe off the 
top, so as to remove every particle of fat. When replaced in 
the soup kettle to heat, be careful to remove the settlings at the 
bottom of the jelly. 

If made of beef this will produce brown stock. Veal treated 
in a similar manner makes white stock. 

The bones from roast beef, bits of ham, the carcases of fowls, 
and any bits of cold meat, make good additions to the stock pot. 

If the stock is to be kept any length of time, it is better not 
to add the vegetables until the soup is wanted for use, as they 
cause the stock to sour sooner than if made without them. 

Browning the vegetables in a little hot fat before putting into 
the stock, brings out their flavor better. 

Macaroni, vermicelli, pearl barley, sago, tapioca, rice, and oat- 
meal, are all used for flavoring soups, the proportion being two 
or three table-spoonfuls to the quart. Thick soups are made 
from split peas, beans, etc., one-half a tea-cupful of either being 
sufficient to thicken one quart of soup. If after straining these 
the soup is unevenly thickened, the meal of the peas or beans 
sinking to the bottom of the kettle, it may be held in suspen- 
sion by mixing together, dry, a table-spoonful of butter and flour, 
and stirring it into the soup. 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 151 

TO CLARIFY STOCK. 

To every quart of stock allow the white and shell of one egg. 
Beat these to a froth; add a few table-spoonfuls of the cold stock, 
then mix the whole with the stock to be clarified. Set on the 
stove and stir pretty constantly until it comes to a boil. Let it 
boil a few moments, then remove it from the stove and let it 
stand until the bubbling has entirely ceased. Skim off the egg, 
etc., that has risen to the top, taking great pains not to disturb 
the contents of the kettle more than is necessary. Strain 
through a fine hair sieve, a flannel bag, or a coarse cloth laid in 
the colander. The broth should be clear and sparkling. 

If expense is not to be considered, it adds much to the value 
of the stock, and helps also to make it beautifully clear and 
bright, to add with the egg one pound of very finely chopped 
beef to every five pounds of meat used in making the stock. 

Chop the meat as fine as possible, put it with the whites and 
shells of the eggs as you put them in the stock; stir constantly 
until the whole boils; let it boil half an hour, then strain as be- 
fore. If it does not run clear at first, pass it through the sieve 
again and again until perfectly clear. 

CLEAR SOUP, OR CONSOMM^. 

This is simply the clarified stock heated and seasoned with salt. 
It may be served in various ways. Thin slices of lemon, at least 
one slice to a person, are often added just before it is sent to the 
table, or one poached egg for each person, is served with it, or a 
little grated cheese may be handed round and each person add a 
spoonful to the soup served him. 

The soup plates, the turreen, and even the ladle should be hot. 
Lukewarm soup is an abomination. 

C0NS0MM6 A LA ROYALE, OR CLEAR SOUP WITH 
ROYAL CUSTARD. 

Consomm6 a la Royale is clear soup in which custard k la 
Roy ale is served. This is prepared as follows: 

CUSTARD A LA ROYALE. 

Take the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two; add one- 
half pint of clear soup and a half a salt-spoonful of salt, and a 



152 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

very little nutmeg. Whisk the eggs and stock well together. 
Butter a shallow pan and put the custard in it. Place this in 
another pan containing boiling water. Put the whole in the 
oven or on the stove, and let it simmer until the custard is firm. 
When done turn it out on a plate to cool. Cut in dice, or fancy 
shaped pieces, and just before serving add it to the soup. 

TOMATO SOUP. 

This is made from beef stock by adding one pint of tomatoes, 
freed from seeds by straining, to two quarts of stock; add three 
table-spoonfuls of rice, salt to taste, and boil until the rice is 
tender. 

TOMATO SOUP WITHOUT STOCK. 

Fry half a medium sized onion, cut in slices, in a little butter; 
add a quart can of tomatoes, and, if possible, two sprigs of pars- 
ley. Let it cook fifteen minutes and then pass through a sieve. 
Put into a sauce-pan a tea-spoonful of butter, and when it bub- 
bles, add a tea-spoonful of flour; stir until perfectly smooth, 
and when it begins to boil, stir in the tomato pulp and season 
with pepper and salt; add one-half pint of boiling water, and a 
cupful of fresh boiled rice, and a small half tea-spoonful of soda 
dissolved perfectly in a little boiling water. 

JULIENNE SOUP. 

After clarifying the stock as previously described, add to it 
two carrots, one turnip, and two or three cabbage leaves, or 
leaves of lettuce, cut into long, narrow strips, or shred. These 
vegetables must have been previously boiled until tender, each 
in separate water well salted, so that the color may be perfectly 
preserved. If they are ready before time to serve the soup, 
drain them out of the hot water, and put them, still in separate 
vessels, in cold water. Add them to the soup a long enough 
time before serving to heat them thoroughly. 

This is a very pretty and delicious soup. 

SPEING SOUP. 

In June or July clear soup, with the addition of peas, aspara- 
gus tops, and young onions, is called a "spring soup." 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 153 

MACARONI SOUP. 

This is made by the addition of macaroni cut in two or three- 
inch lengths and boiled until tender in well salted water, to good 
beef stock. 

VERMICELLI SOUP 
is exactly the same except the vermicelli is not cut. 

POTAGE A LA REIM, OR CHICKEK SOUP. 

Boil an old fowl in four quarts of water until reduced to two 
quarts ; add one carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, a table- 
spoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a scrape of nutmeg. 
Remove the chicken, and strain the soup. Take the breast of 
the fowl, chop it fine and rub it, with one cupful of rice boiled 
very soft, through a sieve. Add it to the soup, first skimming 
off every particle of grease. Let it come to a scald; stir in one- 
half pint of thick sweet cream, and serve at once. Do not let it 
boil after the cream has been added. It should just become hot 
enough to use. Add more salt if necessary. 

AMBER SOLT*. 

(Mrs. Henderson.) 

This soup is served at almost all company dinners. There can 
be no better choice, as a heavy soup is not then desirable. 

Ingredients. — A soup bone of two or three pounds, a chicken, 
a small slice of ham, an onion, two sprigs of parsley, half a small 
carrot, half a small parsnip, half a stick of celery, three cloves, 
pepper, salt, a gallon of cold water, whites and shells of two 
eggs, and caramel for coloring. 

Let the beef, chicken and ham boil slowly for five hours; add 
the vegetables and cloves to cook the last hour, having first fried 
the onion in a little hot fat and stuck the cloves in it. Strain 
the soup into an eartheru bowl, and let it remain over night. 
Next day remove the cake of fat on the top; take out the jelly, 
avoiding the settlings, and mix into it the beaten whites of the 
eggs with the shells. Boil quickly for half a minute; then, plac- 
ing the kettle on the hearth, skim oft' carefully all the scum and 
whites of the eggs from the top, not stirring the soup itself. 
Pass this through the jelly bag, when it should be quite cleai". 



154 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

The soup may then be put aside and reheated just before serv- 
ing. Add then a large table-spoonful of caramel, as it gives it a 
richer color, and also a slight flavor. 

BOUILLON^. 

This is simply a strong, clear extract of beef, or stock, which 
is often served in small cups at evening parties shortly after the 
guests have arrived. One quart of water to four pounds of meat 
and bone is the right proportion. It is just double that of ordi- 
nary stock jelly. As a rule no seasoning is added, except salt 
and pepper. 

FRENCH GUMBO. 

(Louisiana Receipt.) 

Cut up one large fowl; season it with salt and pepper; dredge 
it well with flour. Put in the kettle a table-spoonful of butter, 
one of lard, and a chopped onion. Fry the fowl to a good 
brown; then add to this four quarts of boiling water; cover close 
and let it simmer two hours. Fifty oysters with their liquor is 
a good addition. Add a bunch of soup herbs and several pods of 
gumbo. Season high with cayenne; salt to taste. 

BEEF SOUP. 

Boil a soup bone the day before wanting it, according to di- 
rections for preparing stock. Skim the grease off next day, and 
melt the jelly; add spices to taste, a little Worcestershire sauce, 
a small tea-cup of butter rubbed in brown flour, a little vermi- 
celli, and a grated carrot. Boil three eggs hard, mash smooth, 
put in turreen, and pour over them. 

TURKEY SOUP. 

Take the turkey bones and cook for one hour in water enough 
to cover them, then stir in a little of the dressing and a beaten 
egg. A little chopped celery improves it. Take from the fire, 
and when the water has ceased boiling add a little butter, with 
pepper and salt. 

Of course the bones are removed and the soup strained before 
the dressing and egg are added. 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 155 

ECONOMICAL WHITE SOUPS. 

1. Milk Soup. — To make this you will require two pounds of 
potatoes, two leeks or onions, two quarts of boiling water, one 
pint of milk, two ounces of butter, three dessert-spoonfuls of 
crushed tapioca, and pepper and salt to taste. 

The potatoes and leeks must be pared and put into two quarts 
of boiling water, in which they must continue to boil until quite 
tender; pass both water and vegetables through a sieve, and put 
them back into the stew-pan; now add the milk, butter, and sea- 
soning, place it on the fire and keep stirring, at the same time 
sprinkling in the crushed tapioca; another ten minutes' boiling 
will be necessary, after this is all added, to cook the tapioca; 
then serve. Care must be taken to keep stirring to the end, or 
the tapioca will stick together and be lumpy. 

2. Rice-Ckeam Soup. — Take one pound of loin of veal, one- 
fourth of a pound of Carolina rice, a small quantity of onion, 
and two quarts of new milk. 

Cut the veal into small pieces and put it on to stew with the 
other ingredients, adding a little white pepper and salt to taste; 
then pass it through a sieve, when it should be of the consis- 
tency of rich cream. The soup must be warmed again after 
straining, but great care must be taken that it does not boil, or 
it will curdle. If more flavor is liked, a very small, thin piece 
of lemon peel, a little cut celery, and a blade of mace, may be 
added when the seasoning is put in. 

3. Potato Soup. — Vor this you will require a small breast of 
mutton, from which the fat should be trimmed; it should also 
be well jointed, as it makes an excellent dish when taken out of 
the soup. 

Place the mutton in a stew pan with three quarts of water; 
as soon as it Ijoils draw it to the side of the fire, skim it care- 
fully, and season the broth with a very little peppei*, and salt to 
taste. Peel and cut into quarters six large sound potatoes and 
three turnips, slice three onions and three heads of celer}"-, and 
throw all these into the broth with a good sized handful of sweet 
herbs. Let all stew gently together for four and a half hours 
over a slow fire; take out the mutton, placing it in a covered dish 
near the tire, to keep hot till required; strain olf the liquid, and 
force as much as possible of the vegetables through a coarse 



156 so OPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

sieve with a wooden spoon, to be added to the soup; beat up the 
yoik o£ an egg with a quarter of a pint of milk; stir all together 
and warm it up for sending to the table, taking care that it does 
not now boil for fear it should curdle. Should you wish to 
make this soup richer, add another yolk and use cream instead 
of milk. 

CREAM OF RICE. 

To make cream of rice: Have three pints of rice, wash it well 
to take the dusty smell off; put it in a stew-pan with two ounces 
of butter, a little salt and grated nutmeg, and three quarts of 
boiled milk; set on the fire, heat slowly, stirring once in a while; 
when it boils cover it and let it simmer gently an hour or so; 
when done, pass it through a fine wire sieve by rubbing vigor- 
ously with a wooden spoon; put the residue in a stew-pan, add 
more boiled milk to give the soup the proper consistency; warm 
it, stirring continually; do not let it boil; finish with two ounces 
of table butter and half a pint of boiling cream; taste, season 
lightly, and serve with small, thin lozenge-shaped pieces of white 
bread fried in clarified butter and thrown into it. 

VEGETABLE SOUP. 

Take three pounds of shin of beef and stew it gently for an 
hour in two quarts of water, add two large onions cut in slices, 
one large tomato, two middle-sized vegetable marrows cut in 
small pieces, and half a peck of green peas; season with pepper 
and salt, and stew the whole for two hours longer. Neck of 
mutton may be used instead of shin of beef. 

TOMATO SOUP. 

Ingredients. — Three pounds of beef, one quart canned toma- 
toes, one gallon of water. 

Let the meat and water boil for two hours, or until the liquid 
is reduced to a little more than two quarts. Then stir in the 
tomatoes and stew all slowly for three-quarters of an hour 
longer. Season to taste, strain, and serve. 

CHICKEN SOUP. 
(German Way.) 
The chicken is singed, scalded, dredged with a handful of flour, 
and allowed to stand one hour in water. It is then put on the 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 157 

fire in this water with salt (the interior of the chicken must also 
be well rubbed with salt), skimmed, and then boiled four hours 
with vegetables. 

Dumplings for this soup. — For three persons take two eggs, 
two spoonfuls of flour and a little salt. Then put a little butter 
into a small sauce-pan, add the mixture and stir it until it comes 
clean off the sauce-pan. When cold add the yolks of two eggs, 
and sugar, and knead it well; then cut out in little dumplings 
with a spoon, put them in the soup and let them boil five min- 
utes. The soup must be strained before the dumplings are put in. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

Take one quart of water, one tea-cup of butter, one pint of 
milk, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, four crackers rolled fine, and a 
tea-spoonful of pepper. Bring to full boiling heat as soon as 
possible, then add two quarts of oysters. Let the whole come to 
a boiling heat quickly and remove from the fire. 

The crackers serve the purpose of thickening, instead of flour. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

To one quart of oysters add a half pint of water. Put this on 
the fire, and as soon as it scalds, strain the liquor and set on the 
back of the stove to keep warm until needed. Put into another 
sauce-pan a heaping table-spoonful of butter, and when it bub- 
bles add a table-spoonful of sifted flour; stir well and cook a few 
moments but do not let it brown; then add half a pint of rich 
milk, the oysters, salt, and cayenne peppei", and a sprinkle of 
mace. When this is just at the boiling point, add to the hot 
liquor strained from the oysters. Taste to see that it is suffi- 
ciently seasoned, and serve at once. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 

(South Kensington School.) 
Ingredients. — Half a calf's head, three ounces of butter, half a 
table-spoonful of salt, one-quarter of a pound of lean ham, one 
shallot, one clove of garlic, six mushrooms, one carrot, half a 
head of celery, one leek, one onion, half a turnip, a sprig of 
thyme, marjoram, parsley, and a baj' leaf, one blade of mace, six 
cloves, three ounces of flour, two wine-glasses of sherry, the juice 
of half a lemon, one dozen force-meat balls. 



158 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

Wash the calf's head well in water to remove all blood and im- 
purities; cut all the flesh from the bones and tie it up in a clean 
cloth; put it over the fire, in a large stew-pan, with the bones, 
and four quarts of cold water, and half a table-spoonful of salt. 
As soon as it boils skim it well, and remove the stew-pan to the 
back of the stove to simmer gently for three hours, skimming 
occasionally. Now take out the calf's head, and strain the stock 
and set it aside to cool. When cold remove every particle of 
fat; then put one ounce of butter in a stew-pan and put it on 
the fire to melt; slice the ham, clean the vegetables and slice 
them, and fry all in the butter ten minutes, adding also the 
spices and herbs; then add three ounces of flour and stir well; 
now add the stock and stir until it boils, then reduce the heat and 
let it simmer about ten minutes. Remove every particle of scum 
and strain the soup into another sauce-pan. Take the meat from 
the calf's head out of the cloth and cut it up in small, neat 
pieces, and add these, two glasses of sherrj^, and the force-meat 
balls to the soup, and squeeze in through a strainer the juice of 
half a lemon. 

FORCE-MEAT BALLS. 

Ingredients. — Two ounces beef suet, one tea-spoonful of 
chopped parsley, one-fourth of a tea-spoonful of chopped thyme 
and marjoram, a little grated lemon-rind and nutmeg, salt and 
pepper, one egg^i four ounces raw beef. 

Chop the suet very fine; chop the beef also and put it in a 
bowl ; rub three ounces of bread crumbs through a sieve and add 
it with one tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful each of thyme and marjoram, to the beef. Grate half 
a tea-spoonful of lemon rind and nutmeg into the basin; season 
well with pepper and salt, add one egg^ and mix all well together. 
Form into balls, egg and bread crumb and fry brown. 

PEA SOUP. 
(Appledm-e Cook Rook.) 
Pick the peas over that there may be no blemished ones among 
them. Wash and soak over night. In the morning turn off the 
water and put them in the soup pot. For one quart of peas 
allow eight quarts of cold water, one pound of lean salt pork, 
a small piece of celery, a little pepper, and half an onion; boil 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 159 

gently eight hours, being very careful that it does not brown. 
Have a large wooden spoon to stir it with. When done it should 
be thin enough to pour. In boiling it may become too thick; if 
so, add boiling water. When cooked, it is smooth and rather 
mealy. If not cooked enough, after standing a few minutes the 
thick part will settle and the top look watery. Have ready six 
slices of bread toasted brown, and cut into pieces an inch square; 
throw about a dozen of these pieces into a turreen, and the re- 
mainder send to the table dry. Strain the soup through a sieve 
and serve. If the pork does not salt it enough, use salt. This 
soup is even better warmed over than at first. Some persons use 
soup stock and butter, but it is rich enough in this way, and 
much healthier. 

CORN SOUP. 

Boil one quart of corn, cut from the cob, in one and one-half 
quarts of water, until perfectly tender. Rub two table-spoonfuls 
of butter with one table-spoonful of flour; let it bubble over the 
fire, then stir it into the corn and boil fifteen minutes longer. 
Just before serving beat up an egg and stir it in. Do not let it 
boil after the egg is put in. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 

MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP. 

Put a chicken, cut as for fricassee, into the stock pot, with a 
knuckle of veal and four quarts of water. Let this boil until the 
chicken is tender; take out the pieces of chicken, trim them 
neatly, and set them by to serve with the soup; let the veal sim- 
mer three hours. Fry an onion, a carrot, and a little celery in 
butter until a light brown, then add a table-spoonful of flour and 
brown that; now stir in a level table-spoonful of curry powder, 
and add slowly the stock. Return to the fire and simmer one 
hour. Twenty minutes before serving, strain the soup, skim oft' 
all the fat, and return to the fire vsdth the pieces of chicken. 
Serve with boiled rice. 

EGG BALLS FOR SOUP. 

(Home Cook Boole.) 

Boil four eggs; put into cold water; mash yolks with the yolk 

of one raw egg, and one tea-spoonful of flour; add pepper, salt, 

and chopped parsley to taste; make into balls and boil two 

minutes. 



160 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

CARAMEL FOR COLORING SOUPS. 

Put one ounce of sugar in a sauce-pan over the fire; stir con- 
stantly until colored a rich, dark brown; add slowly one-half 
pint of boiling water; let it boil a few moments, then bottle for 
use. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

The best roasts are the sirloin, the porterhouse, or thin end 
sirloin and the rib roasts. The most delicate roast is the fillet, 
or tenderloin. "Never allow your butcher to skewer your meat. 
Have it tied carefully into shape, and then cut and remove the 
strings before dishing. Wooden skewers invariably give an un- 
pleasant taste to the beef through which they pass, and any 
skewer makes a hole for the flow of the juices. Never wash 
meat in a pan of water. If it is dusty, wring a cloth out of cold 
water and wipe it off. Many a careless cook wastes a good pro- 
portion of the best part of the roast in a pan of water which is 
thrown away. 

The best pieces for boiling, stewing, a la mode, etc., are from 
the round, the chuck rib, and the cross rib. 

The choice cuts of steak are the porterhouse and the sirloin. 
The origin of both names is curious. The porterhouse steak is 
cut from the small end of the sirloin, and is so named from hav- 
ing been first used by the proprietor of a "Porter House" in New 
York city. The small size of the steak when trimmed makes it 
very convenient to be served to one or two persons at a time, and 
it soon became very popular. It is not to be recommended as 
an economical steak for family use, however, as there is more 
waste in the trimming for the table than in either the sirloin or 
round. 

The word " sirloin" is said to have originated with Charles II, 
who, on returning from a hunt ravenously hungry, was so de- 
lighted with a choice roast of beef that was served him from the 
loin, that he jocularly knighted it, dubbing it " Sir Loin." This 
is indeed a delicious morsel, and can be cut either into fine roast- 
ing pieces or large, handsome steaks. 

The round steak is also a favorite with many, and is perhaps 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 161 

the most economical piece for ordinary family "use. There is a 
larger proportion of meat to bone, and less waste than in either 
of the other pieces. 

All steak should he cut from one-half to three-quarters of an 
inch thick. It should never be pounded, since then the fibres 
are so torn and lacerated as to afford ready escape to all the juices. 

I have used the word "roast" in the following receipts, al- 
though not strictly correct, because it is the word most generally 
used among housekeepers and will be perfectly understood. My 
receipts are all for baking meats, as so few have conveniences for 
roasting. 

TO KOAST BEEF. 

No. 1. — Make a bed of vegetables and sweet herbs for the bot- 
tom of the dripping-pan, by cutting in small pieces one-half a car- 
rot, one-half a turnip, one small onion, and adding to these a sprig 
of parsley, a little thyme, and a bay leaf. The vegetables will 
do without the herbs if you cannot procure them. A piece of 
celery (the- green top will do) is also a pleasant addition. Place 
these in a little mound, or bed, in the dripper (the dripper should 
be furnished with a rack), and, after tying the roast in good 
shape, place it on this bed. Do not put any water in the pan, 
and do not season the meat at first, as the salt extracts the 
juices. The temperature of the oven should be high at first. 
After the surface of the roast is well seared over, and the juices 
locked in, season the meat, reduce the heat, baste often, and cook 
slowly the requisite time. 

TO ROAST BEEF. 

No. 2. — Tie the roast in proper shape, rub it well with salt 
and pepper, then dredge it thoroughly with flour, and put it on 
the rack in the dripping pan. If the meat is very dry and lean, 
a little boiling water may be poured in the pan, but this must 
never be enough in quantity to touch the beef. The heat should 
be regulated according to instructions in No. 1. The basting 
should be frequent and regular after the first fifteen minutes. 

Allow ten minutes to the pound if liked rare; fifteen or twenty 
if preferred well done. 

The juice of the beef is the best sauce to serve it with, but if 
a made gravy is desired proceed as follows: 



162 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

If the meat is baked after the first plan, take the vegetables 
out; if the roast is very fat, skim the most of this off; then put 
the pan on the top of the stove, stir in smoothly a table-spoonful 
of flour, and add, very gradualJy, stirring all the time, sufficient 
boiling water to make it of the proper consistency. 

If baked after the second plan, proceed in the same way, ex- 
cept that there will be no vegetables to remove. 

BEEF A LA MODE. 

Remove the bone from a small round of beef (five or six 
pounds); cut lardoons of dry-salted pork, or sweet, fat bacon, 
one-half an inch square and two or three inches long; make 
gashes in the beef, and insert these at regular intervals; fill the 
opening from which the bone was taken with rich force meat, 
or good bread-crumb dressing, and sew it up; rub the beef well 
with a mixture composed of the following ingredients: one 
grated nutmeg, one table-spoonful of black pepper, one of 
ground cloves, one of allspice, and two of salt; add parsley, 
thyme, and sweet marjoram (it is a good plan to roll the lar- 
doons in this, also, before inserting them). Put the trimmings 
of the pork in a saucepan, and when they are tried out, skim 
them from the grease, and put the beef, securely tied in shape, 
into the hot fat; brown it well on all sides, then dredge it with 
a heaping table-spoonful of flour, and turn it until that, too, is 
well browned; now pour in enough boiling water to about half 
cover the meat; pare and cut in pieces a carrot, a turnip, and an 
onion, and put these on top of the beef. If there is danger that 
the beef may burn or stick to the bottom of the kettle, slip a 
kitchen plate or saucer under it. Put the kettle on the back of 
the stove, to simmer gently and evenly four hours. Serve with 
the pieces of vegetables arranged on the platter around the beef 
with a portion of the sauce in which it is stewed; or baked onions 
may be served on the platter with it. 

FILLET OF BEEF. 

The fillet must be well trimmed and freed from fat and skin. 
Then lard it neatly; put the trimmings of pork or bacon with 
which you have larded it in the bottom of the dripping pan; 
pour into the pan a cupful of good beef stock, or hot water, 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTEY, AND GAME. 163 

though the stock is much the better, sprinkle salt and pepper 
over the fillet, put it in the pan, and bake from half to three- 
quarters of an hour, according to the size of the fillet, basting 
frequently, and adding, if necessary, a little stock occasionally. 
Serve with mushroom sauce. 

Mushroom Sauce. — Put a table-spoonful of butter and a table- 
spoonful of flour in a saucepan over the fire. Stir until the flour 
is well browned. Add very slowly the juice from half a can 
of mushrooms, and sufficient hot beef stock to make the sauce 
the proper thickness; season with pepper, salt, and a tea-spoon- 
ful of lemon juice; add a half can of mushrooms, simmer a few 
moments, pour over the fillet and serve. 

BOILED BEEF, NO. 1. 

Plunge the beef into a small quantity of boiling water, about 
half enough to cover it, and boil rapidly in a tightly covered ket- 
tle for ten minutes. Then remove the kettle to the back part 
of the stove and simmer gently, allowing twenty minutes to the 
pound. Do not season until half an hour before it is done; then 
the water should have boiled away sufficiently to allow the meat 
to brown in the bottom of the pot. Now put in a table-spoonful 
of butter or sweet beef drippings, and a table-spoonful of flour 
rubbed together. Turn the beef until thoroughly browned. If 
necessary add more hot water after the meat is browned, or, better 
still, a ladleful of good beef stock. 

BOILED BEEF, NO. 2. 

Put some trimmings of pork, or a table-spoonful of other sweet 
fat into the stew-pan; have ready a saucerful of sliced carrot, 
turnip, and onion; brown these slightly in the fat, and then 
skim them out. Put now the piece of meat into the hot 
fat and brown it well; when a rich brown dredge it with a table- 
spoonful of flour, and gradually, stirring all the time, sufficient 
boiling water to make the gravy just thick enough. Season with 
salt and pepper and return the vegetables to the pot; remove to 
the back part of the stove and simmer gently until done. Serve 
with the vegetables neatly arranged around the meat, and a part 
of the gravy poured over them. 



164 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

To be baked under a roast of beef. It is put in the bottom of 
the pan, the roast lying on the rack. Bake half an hour. 

Ingredients. — One pint of milk, two large table-spoonfuls of 
flour, two eggs, one salt-spoonful of salt. 

Mix the flour and eggs well together; add the milk by degrees, 
and lastly the salt. Put it in the oven to set, then put it under 
the meat till one side is thoroughly browned, then turn and 
brown the other side. 

BEEP STEW. 
(Miss Parloa.) 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of beef (the round, flank, or any 
cheap part (if there is bone in it, two and one-half pounds will 
be required), one onion, two slices of carrot, two of turnip, two 
potatoes, three table-spoonfuls of flour, salt, pepper, one generous 
quart of water. 

Cut all the fat from the meat, and put in a stew-pan and fry 
gently for ten or fifteen minutes. While the fat is frying, cut 
the meat in small pieces, and season well with salt and pepper, and 
then sprinkle on two table-spoonfuls of flour. Cut the vegeta- 
bles into very small pieces, and put them in the pot with the 
fat; fry them for five minutes, stirring all the time to prevent 
burning. Now put in the meat, and move it about in the pot 
until it begins to brown ; then add the quart of boiling water. 
Cover over, let it boil up once, skim, and set back where it will 
just bubble for two and one-half hours; then add the potatoes 
cut in slices, and one table-spoonful of flour, which mix smooth 
with half a cup of cold water, pouring about one-third of the 
water on the flour at first, and when perfectly smooth adding 
the remainder. Taste now to see that the stew is seasoned 
enough, and if not add more salt and pepper. Let the stew come 
to a boil again, and cook ten minutes; then add the dumplings. 
Cover tight and boil rapidly ten minutes longer. 

Mutton, lamb, or veal can be cooked in this same manner. 
When veal is used, fry out two slices of pork, as there will not 
be much fat on the meat. Lamb and mutton must have some 
of the fat put one side, as there is so much on these kinds of 
meat they are very gross. 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 165 

DUMPLINGS. 

Ingredients. — One pint of flour measured before sifting, one- 
half tea-spoonful of soda, one of cream tartar, one-half of salt, 
one of sugar. 

Put all into a sieve, mix thoroughly, and run through the 
sieve; then Avet v^ith a small cup of milk; sprinkle a little flour 
on the board, turn the dough (which should have been stirred 
into a smooth ball with a spoon) on it, roll about half an inch 
thick, cut into small cakes, and cook ten minutes, as directed. 

Things to he carefully noted: That the dumplings boil just ten 
minutes; that they do not sink too deep in the stew; that the 
stew is boiling rapidly when they are put in; that the cover fits 
tight on the pot, so that the steam shall not escape; and that the 
pot boils all the time, so that the steam shall be kept up. These 
few directions carefully followed will insure success every time. 

BEEFSTEAK. 

For broiling, the coals should be clear and bright. The broiler 
should be heated before the steak is put on it, and then exposed 
to the fiercest heat of the coals and turned frequently. As soon 
as the surface of the steak is seared over perfectly on all sides, it 
can be moved a little farther from the coals and cooked more 
slowly. It can be tested in the following manner: Press the 
flat part of the blade of a kitchen knife against the surface of 
the steak. If on removing it the fibre springs immediately back 
to its place, the steak is still very rare; if it resumes its natural 
appearance after a second or two, it is medium rare, but if it re- 
tains the impression of the knife, it is thoroughly well done. 
Never stick a fork into a steak. If you have not a double 
broiler turn the steak either by putting the fork under the slice 
and the flat blade of the knife above it, or 5^ou may put your 
fork into a portion of the fat, being sure not to pierce the mus- 
cular fibre. Do not season the steak until it is cooked. Then 
place it on a hot platter and put a lump of butter, and salt and 
pepper on its upp3r surface; then carefully turn and treat the 
other side in the same wa3^ A little chopped parsley and a few 
drops of lemon juice or vinegar mixed with the butter, before 
seasoning the steak, makes what is known as Maitre d' Hotel 
butter, which is considered a very great improvement upon sim- 
ple butter for steak. 



166 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTEY, AND GAME. 

If the conveniences for broiling are lacking, or if it is not easy 
to get good coals, there is a way of cooking it in a spider or skil- 
let that is next to broiling, and as different as possible from the 
ordinary fried steak. Have the spider very hot. Do not put one 
particle of grease in it, but when hot put in the steak and turn 
continually, as in broiling, until the surface is seared; then re- 
duce the heat as before and cook gradually until done. Of 
course, the precise point when it is done varies with individual 
taste. It can be tested in the same way as the broiled steak. 
Seasoned like broiled steak after it is done. 

TO MAKE TOUGH STEAK TENDER. 

Prepare a Marinade., or pickle, of one table-spoonful of vine- 
gar, one of olive oil or melted butter, and a salt-spoonful of 
pepper. Soak the steak in this for an hour or more, turning it 
occasionally. The vinegar softens the fibre, the oil or butter 
keeps it soft, and the pepper seasons it somewhat. Never add 
any salt. It would be injurious in two ways: it would aid in 
extracting the juices, and would harden the fibre. The oil is 
better than the butter, as the latter hardens so soon. If butter 
is used, the dish containing the pickle must be kept in a warm 
place. The flavor of the steak will not be unpleasantly affected 
by this process, and the result is sure if thoroughly tried. If the 
steak is very tough, it is well to prepare the pickle in the eve- 
ning before the meat is needed for breakfast, and allow it to 
remain in it all night. It is much better to treat tough steak in 
this way than to pound it. When ready to broil it, drain it out 
of the pickle, and proceed exactly according to the preceding 
directions. 

BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. 
{English Receipt.) 

Line a basin with thin, plain pastry. For a small pudding, 
take three-fourths of a pound of rump steak, cut into thin slices 
without fat or gristle. Make a powder of pepper and salt; dip 
each slice into it, and lay round in layers in the basin until 
nearly full. Fill up the center with oysters or mushrooms, tie 
it tight in a cloth, and boil for three hours. Add water in the 
saucepan as required, but it must not reach the top of the pud- 
ding basin. Fill up the basin with good stock. 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 167 

BEEFSTEAK BOLLS. 

Cut a beefsteak quite thick, then split open lengthwise and 
cut in strips four or five inches wide; rub over the inside with 
an onion, and in each strip roll up a thin slice of bread buttered 
on both sides; stick two cloves in the bread, and sprinkle over it 
some salt, pepper, and celery seed (cut, or thin slices of celery 
stalk, if in season). Tie each roll with a thread; dredge it with 
flour, and fry it in hot butter. Then put these, when a delicate 
brown, into a stewjDan, with only water enough to stew them. 
Make a nice thickened gravy from the liquor in which the 
steaks were stewed, and serve with the rolls, very hot. The rolls 
should stew slowly two hours. Yeal or mutton is good prepared 
in this way. 

FRIZZLED BEEF FOR BREAKFAST. 

Brown a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, add 
a cup of cream or milk, one tea-spoonful of flour, mixed with a 
little cold milk. Have ready one-half pound of thinly shaved 
smoked beef, add it to the mixture, let it just come to a boil, 
serve. 

HASH AND TOAST. 

Toast slices of bread and put on a platter. Hash very fine 
cold beef or mutton; put in a saucepan, season with salt, pepper, 
and butter, add as much water or stock as the toast will absorb; 
boil ten minutes, pour over the toast, and serve immediately. 

TO HASH BEEF. 

(English Method.) 
Cut slices of raw beef, put them in a stew-pan with a little 
water, some catsup, pepper, and salt; stew them till done, thicken 
the gravy with a lump of butter rubbed into brown flour. 

POLISH HARE. 

Take one pound of raw beef and one pound of sausage meat, 
two rolls or two good slices of bread softened in milk and 
squeezed out well, a little onion, salt, and ground allspice, cloves, 
and black pepper — all to taste, and three eggs and grated bread 
so as to make a nice dough; form it into a loaf and fry in butter. 
This is most excellent. 



168 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY AND GAME. 

KLOPS OF BEEF. 

Take the lean part of the raw meat, from the leg, cut in thin 
slices, and if you have a machine for chopping use it, if not, 
scrape the beef free from the gristle and sinews with a knife, and 
chop it fine with a chopping knife. 

Take one-third the quantity of meat, of finely chopped suet, 
one-fourth of bread crumbs which have been boiled thick in a 
little butter, water, pepper and salt, with one or more eggs; form 
therefrom round balls the size of a small apple, press them rather 
fiat, smooth them with the blade of a knife dipped in water and 
'"criss-cross" them with the sharp end of a knife. Then put into 
a bread pan, parsley, a little onion, with tarragon, all chopped 
very fine, and let them stew slowly in butter; add the juice of a 
lemon with some white wine; lay in the klops, cover them over 
and then stew slowly for some minutes over a gentle fire; turn 
them over so the under side comes up and then stew slowly until 
done. Take them out and lay them in regular shape on a round 
dish, and mix with the sauce in which they have been stewed, 
some of Crosse and Blackwell's sardine or anchovy sauce; let it 
boil up and pour all over the klops and serve with little round 
potatoes fried brown in butter. 

BEEF OMELET, 

Ingredients. — Three pounds round steak put through the sau- 
sage mill, six butter crackers (rolled), three eggs (well beaten), 
one table-spoonful of salt, one tea-spoonful of sage, one tea- 
spoonful of pepper. 

Mix with two table-spoonfuls of butter and water and bake 
one hour. 

LANGUE DE BOEUF AU GRAT^, OR BAKED TON"GUE. 

Chop very fine a little parsley, lemon thyme, tarragon, capers 
and three anchovies. Soak a piece of crumb of bread in 
some good gravy; put it in a mortar with the herbs and a small 
piece of butter and thoroughly pound it together. Place a layer 
of this stuffing in the bottom of a fire proof baking dish. Then 
put slices of cooked tongue on the top of it, then another layer 
of stuffing. Pour over the surface a little butter melted in stock; 
place the dish in the oven until a nice color. 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 169 

STEWED TONGUE. 

(English Receipt.) 

Cut up a slice of bacon into lardoons; sprinkle the pieces with 
salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a little allspice. Lard an ox 
tongue with these and lay it in a saucepan with two slices of 
bacon, four small bunches of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, two 
carrots cut into small pieces, two small onions, a few cloves, salt 
and pepper. Cover with stock to which has been added a glass 
of sherry. Simmer five hours, keeping the saucepan well cov- 
ered. Strain the sauce on the tongue. 

POTTED MEAT. 

Remove all gristle, hard pieces, and fat from the meat; mince 
it very fine, and pound it in a mortar with a little butter, some 
gravy, well freed from fat, and a spoonful of Harvey or Worces- 
ter sauce ; beat it to a smooth paste, seasoning during the process 
with pounded clove or allspice, mace, or grated nutmeg, salt, and 
a little cayenne; put it into pots, press it close down and cover 
with clarified butter or with marrow fat. 

MEAT PIE WITH POTATO CRUST. 

Cut beef or mutton (either raw or cooked), season with pep- 
per, salt, and a finely shred onion. Line a buttered dish with 
mashed potato, put in the meat, with half a tea-cupful of boiling 
water; cover thickly with mashed potato, and bake an hour and 
a half. 

TO MAKE TOUGH MEAT TENDER. 

Soak it in vinegar and water; if a very large piece for about 
twelve hours. For ten pounds of beef use three quarts of water 
to three-quarters of a pint of vinegar^ and soak it for six or seven 
hours. 

TO ROAST A LEG OF VEAL. 

Take out the bone, and fill the cavity with a dressing made as 
follows: three tea-cupfuls of grated bread crumbs, one cupful 
finely chopped suet, one-half cupful of chopped green parsley, 
one table-spoonful of sweet marjoram, and summer savory, one- 
half tea-spoonful of pepper, one tea-spoonful of salt, one egg^ 



170 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

beaten. Put scraps of pork or bacon in tlie dripping-pan. 
Dredge the veal thoroughly with salt, pepper, and flour; lay- 
slices of pork over it, and bake, allowing twenty minutes to the 
pound. Baste often. 

VEAL CUTLETS. 

Veal cutlets should be cut from the leg. They should be of 
an equal size, and must be pressed into shape with the blade of 
a knife, or a cutlet bat. Fry some thin slices of ham in their 
own fat; remove them from the saucepan; egg and bread the 
cutlets, and fry in the same fat. Make a gravy by adding flour 
to a part of the fat, then a little hot water, as in directions for 
beef gravy. Season with salt and pepper and a tea-spoonful 
of lemon juice. Serve in alternate slices of veal and ham, gar- 
nish with slices of lemon and the gravy. 

FEICANDEAU OF VEAL. 
{Miss Corson.) 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of veal, one-fourth pound of lard- 
ing pork, vegetables and seasonings, one-half peck of spinach. 

Choose a thick, compact slice of veal from about the middle of 
the leg, and lard it as follows: Cut the pork in strips an eighth 
of an inch thick and two inches long; lay the veal on a folded 
towel on the left hand; put a strip of pork in the larding needle, 
and take a stitch with it in the upper surface of the veal; as you 
draw the needle out, the strip of pork, or lardoon, will remain in 
the meat. Insert the lardoons in even rows along the cutlet, 
making as many rows as its width will permit. Put into a pan 
some scraps of vegetables and the trimmings of pork; lay the 
cutlet on them and cook it in a moderate oven, taking care not 
to let it burn, and seasoning it when half done with white pep- 
per and salt. Meantime wash and trim the spinach, put it into 
well salted boiling water, and boil it rapidly, with the cover oft", 
until it is tender, which will be in from three to seven minutes, 
according to the age of the spinach; while it is boiling press it 
under the water with a wooden spoon. As soon as it is tender 
drain it in a colander, run plenty of cold water over it, chop it 
fine, and rub it through a sieve with a wooden spoon. When 
the veal is done, warm the spinach with a table-spoonful of but- 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME- 171 

ter and a salt-spoonful of salt; or take up the meat and keep it 
hot while you strain its gravy and warm the spinach in it. Ar- 
range the puree of spinach neatly on a dish, lay the fricandeau 
on the spinach, and serve it hot. 

FRICAKDEAU OF VEAL. 

Cut slices an inch thick and six inches long, lard them with 
slips of lean bacon, bake them a light brown, stew them well in 
seasoned stock made as thick as rich cream, serve them up hot, 
and lay around the dish sorrel stewed with butter, pepper and 
salt till quite dry. 

VEAL CROQUETTES. 

Dredge pieces of cold veal with flour; season with salt and 
pepper, and chop very fine; add enough warm water to bind to- 
gether, form into cork-shaped rolls, dip into well beaten egg^ 
roll in cracker or fine bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard. 

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. 

(Miss Corson.) 

Ingredients. — Three pounds breast of veal, two eggs, one ounce 
of butter, flour, vegetables, and seasonings. 

Cut three pounds of breast of veal in pieces two inches square, 
put them in enough cold water to cover them, with one salt- 
spoonful of white pepper, one tea-spoonful of salt, a bouquet of 
sweet herbs, half a carrot scraped, a turnip peeled, and an onion 
stuck with three cloves; bring slowly to a boil, skim care- 
fully until no more scum rises, and cook gently for thirty or 
forty minutes until the veal is tender; then drain it, returning 
the broth to the fire, and rinsing the meat in cold water to 
whiten it. Meantime make a white sauce by stirring together 
over the fire one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour until 
they are smooth, then adding a pint and a half of the broth 
gradually; season with a little more salt and pepper if they are 
required, and a quarter of a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg. 
When the sauce has boiled up well, stir into it with an egg-whip 
the yolks of two raw eggs, put in the meat and cook for five min- 
vites, stirring occasionally. A few mushrooms are a great im- 
provement to the hlanquette; or it may be served with two table- 



172 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

spoonfuls of chopped parsley sprinkled over it after it is put on 
a hot platter. 

VEAL OLIVES. 

Take the bone out of the fillet and cut thin slices the size of 
the leg, beat them flat, rub them with the yolk of an egg well 
beaten, lay on each piece a thin slice of boiled ham, sprinkle 
salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley and bread crumbs 
over all, roll them up tight, tie them, rub them with egg, and 
roll them in bread crumbs, lay them on a tin dripping-pan, and 
set them in the oven. When brown on one side turn them, and 
when sufficiently brown cover them with stock and simmer un- 
til tender. 

TO STUFF AND EOAST A CALF'S LIVER. 

Take a fresh calf's liver, and, having made a hole in it with a 
large knife run in lengthways, but not quite through, have 
ready force meat, or stuffing, made of part of the liver parboiled, 
fat of bacon minced very fine, and sweet herbs powdered; add to 
these some grated bread and ground spice, with pepper and salt. 
With this stuffing fill the hole in the liver, which must be larded 
with fat bacon, and then roast, flouring it well and basting with 
butter till it is cooked enough. This is to be served hot with 
gravy sauce. 

VEAL LOAF. 

Ingredients. — Three pounds of veal and two thick slices of 
pork, chopped fine, two eggs, two Boston crackers rolled, three 
tea-spoonfuls each of salt and pepper, one-fourth of a nutmeg. 

Make into a loaf, dredge with flour. Bake from two and one- 
half to three hours. Baste often, and serve with meat gravy. 
Very nice hot or cold for tea. 

SWEET-EREADS. 

Sweet- breads, if properly cooked, make one of the most deli- 
cate dishes that can be put upon the table, but care must be 
taken in selecting them as there are two kinds, and it is only one 
kind that is very good. Ask for the "heart sweet-bread" and 
select the largest. There are many ways to cook them. This is 
a good way: Parboil the sweet-breads and put them into a stew- 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 173 

pan, and season with salt and cayenne to taste; place over a slow 
fire; mix one large table-spoonful of browned flour with a small 
piece of butter, add a leaf of mace; stir butter and gravy well 
together and let all stew for half an hour; then set the stew-pan 
in the oven and when the sweet-breads are nicely browned place 
them on a dish. Pour the gravy into half a pint of stewed 
tomatoes, thickened with a tea-spoonful of flour and a small 
piece of butter, and season. Strain it through a wire sieve into 
a stew-pan, let it come to a boil, and stir until done; then pour 
over the sweet-breads and serve very hot. 

HOW TO DEESS SWEET-BREADS. 

1. When well washed and cleared from skin, they may be 
larded with delicate strips of very fresh bacon or not, according 
to taste. Boil till nearly done, then put them into a thickly 
buttered deep dish which will stand the oven (metal or earthen- 
ware), strewing the bottom of the dish with thin slices of carrot 
and onion, add a ladleful of good broth, salt and pepper, and 
brown in the oven till of a dark golden color. Take out the 
sweet-breads, strain the juice, adding some good veal stock and a 
few drops of lemon juice, and serve. 

2. Butter a stew-pan or good-sized saucepan thickly, line it 
with slices of carrot and onion, put in the sweet-breads prepared 
as above, i. e., washed and freed from skins, and larded, but not 
boiled. Let them brown well over in a brisk oven, shaking oc- 
casionally to prevent adherence, and turning if necessary, so that 
they may brown evenly on all sides. When of a deep golden 
hue all over moisten with three or four table-spoonfuls of thick 
cream, add enough veal stock to nearly cover the sweet-breads, 
cover tightly, and put live coals on the lid (this can be best done 
in a braizing kettle); place over a moderate fire, and let them 
stew gently for nearly an hour. To serve them, strain the sauce 
and add a little lemon juice. They are very good also when 
cooked in this way and served upon fresh young peas, spinach, 
or sorrel done in the French way. It is essential that the stock 
used should be veal stock, because one of the first rules of all 
good cookery is that all meats should be cooked in their own 
sauces, i. e., that the sauce should be of the same meat as the 
thing cooked. 



174 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

TO FRY LIVER. 

Fry first some thin slices of bacon ; take them out and keep 
them warm until required. Plunge the slices of liver for a mo- 
ment into boiling water, drain and roll them in flour; fry in the 
fat left from the bacon. Arrange the liver and bacon in alter- 
nate slices; garnish with lemon and parsley and serve smoking 
hot. If the flavor of onion is liked a sliced onion may be fried 
with the liver. 

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON". 

Bone the leg, or take out the first joint, and fill the cavity with 
a bread crumb or force meat dressing. Dredge with flour, salt, 
and pepper, and roast the same as beef. Allow fifteen minutes 
to the pound. 

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. 

Plunge into boiling water sufficient to cover it well; let it boil 
up and skim; add a little salt, remove to the back of the stove 
and simmer until tender. A handful of rice thrown into the pot 
whitens the meat. Serve with caper sauce. (See Savory Sauces.) 

MUTTON CHOPS. 
Broil like beefsteak, and serve with parsley. 

AN EXCELLENT WAY TO COOK A BREAST OF MUTTON. 

(Mrs. Buton.) 

Ingredients. — Breast of mutton, two onions, salt and pepper 
to taste, flour, a bunch of savory herbs, green peas. 

Cut the mutton into pieces about two inches square, and let it 
be tolerably lean ; put it into a stew-pan with a little fat or but- 
ter, and fry it a nice brown; then dredge in a little flour, slice 
the onions, and put them with the herbs in the stew-pan; pour 
in sufficient y^oiev just to cover the meat, and simmer the whole 
gently until the mutton is tender. Take out the meat, strain, 
and skim off all the fat from the gravy, and put both the meat 
and gravy back into the stew-pan; add about a quart of young 
green peas, and let them boil gently until done. Two or three 
slices of bacon added and stewed with the mutton give additional 
flavor; and to ensure the peas being a beautiful green color, they 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 175 

may be boiled in water separately, and added to the stew at the 
moment of serving. 

HARICOT MUTTON. 

Cut pieces from the breast or scrag of mutton and fry them a 
good brown; dredge well with flour and add enough boiling 
water to cover them. Stick an onion with three cloves; prepare 
a bouquet of herbs; pare and cut in dice a turnip and two car- 
rots; put these with a blade of mace, salt and pepper to taste in 
the stew, and simmer gently until the mutton is tender. Re- 
move the herbs and the mace. Serve on a hot platter surrounded 
by the vegetables and a part of the gravy. 

RICE CUTLETS. 

One-quarter pound of boiled rice, one-quarter pound of bread 
crumbs, one-quarter pound of mutton, one-quarter pound of beef, 
one small onion chopped very fine, one gill of stock or cream, 
salt and pepper to taste. Shape into cutlets, egg and bread 
crumb, and fry in hot lard. Serve with fried parsley. 

BOILED LEG OF LAMB. 

(English Receipt.) 
Time, one hour and a quarter after the water simmers. Select 
a fine fresh leg of lamb weighing about five pounds; soak it in 
warm water for rather more than two hours, then wrap it in a 
cloth and boil it slowly for an hour and a quarter. When done, 
dish it up and garnish with a border of carrots, turnips, or cauli- 
flower around it. Wind a cut paper around the shank bone and 
serve it with plain parsley and butter sauce poured over it. 

ROAST LEG OF LAMB. 

Leg of lamb may be stuffed and roasted like leg of mutton. If 
is just as well not to stuff" it, however. It should be done rathei 
rare, just pink on the inside. Serve it with mint sauce. (See 
Savory Sauces.) 

SHOULDER OF LAMB. 

The shoulder blade should be removed, and the opening stuffed, 
then the shoulder is roasted according to the directions for roast 
leg of mutton. 



176 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

LAMB CHOPS. 

These are broiled for ten or fifteen minutes, turning often, 
season well witli butter, salt, and pepper. 

LAMB CROQUETTES. 

These are made exactly like chicken croquettes, substituting 
cold lamb for the cold chicken. 

ROAST PORK. 

Roast the same as beef, except sage is added to the flour with 
which pork is dredged. Pork also requires to be very well done 
— from twenty to thirty minutes should be allowed to the pound, 
according to the thickness of the roast. Serve with baked apples. 

BOILED HAM. 

Scrub it well with a brush kept for the purpose. Mere wash- 
ing will not suffice. Put over in cold water and boil from three 
to five hours, according to size. A ham weighing twelve pounds 
will take five hours. When done take out of the boiling water 
and plunge in cold water; remove the skin carefully and trim 
the underside of the ham. Then put it in a dripping-pan, and 
cover with grated bread crumbs and chopped lemon, and set it 
in the oven to brown. Trim the bone with cut tissue paper. 

PORK SPARE RIBS. 

Broil or fry them and serve with apple sauce. They are more 
delicate broiled. Make sure they are well done. 

TENDERLOIN'S. 

Broil or fry; serve without gravy and with baked apples. 

TO PRY SALT PORK. 

Cut the slices very thin; soak them in sweet milk an hour, or 
in boiling water a few moments; cut off the rinds; have the 
spider hot, and brown them quickly on both sides. 

TO BROIL SALT PORK. 
Prepare in the same way and broil in a double broiler over a 
good clear bed of coals; serve immediately on a hot platter 
Very nice. 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 177 

TO FRY HAM. 

If the ham is salty and hard, soak some time in sweet milk, 
cut the slices thin; have the spider hot and fry quickly. Serve 
at once with a fried or poached egg on each slice of ham. 

BROILED HAM. 
Prepare as to fry, and broil quickly and serve at once. 

BACOK ' 

This is broiled or fried like salt pork. i 

PORK AND BEANS. 

(Miss Parloa.) 

Examine and wash one quart of dry beans (the pea bean is the 
best), and then put them in a pan with six quarts of cold water; 
let them soak in this over night; in the morning wash them in 
another water, and place them on the fire with six quarts of cold 
water and a pound of salt pork. If they are the present year's 
beans, they will cook enough in half an hour; if older, one hour. 
Drain them and put half in the bean pot; then gash the pork, 
put it in, cover with the remainder of the beans, one table- 
spoonful of molasses, and one of salt, and cover with boiling 
water. Bake ten hours; watch them carefully, and do not let 
them cook dry. 

DEVILED HAM. 

One pint of boiled ham chopped fine with a good proportion 
of fat, one table-spoonful of flour, one-half cup of boiling water. 
Press in a mold, and cut in slices. 

HAM OR TONGUE TOAST. 

Cut a slice of bread, toast and butter it, take a small quantity 
of the remains of either ham or tongue, and chop very fine; have 
ready chopped, also very fine, two hard-boiled eggs; put both 
meat and eggs into a stew-pan with a little butter, salt, and a 
dash of cayenne pepper. When thoroughly hot, spread it on 
the toast, and serve immediately. 



178 SODPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

EOAST TURKEY. 

Dressing. — To one cup of fine bread crumbs allow one-third 
of a cup of finely chopped suet, four sprigs of parsley, a tea- 
spoonful of sweet marjoram, summer savory and thyme, half a 
tea-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, and half a beaten 
egg. Use no water, and be sure that the crumbs are very fine. 
Good dressing is never solid and leathery, but crumbs in the 
spoon when it is taken from the fowl. If the flavor of onion is 
liked, a tea-spoonful of chopped onion may be added to the 
above. Never put sage in stuffing for fowls. It is too strong, 
and should only be used with such rich and greasy meats as pork. 

The turkey should be carefully picked, singed and drawn. In 
drawing, the first cut should be made lengthwise in the back of 
the neck. The windpipe and crop should be drawn from this 
opening; then cut inside the right thigh as you hold the turkey 
towards you, down carefully to the vent and clear around it, tak- 
ing great pains not to cut into the entrails, and to loosen them, 
at the vent, perfectly from the body. Now put the forefinger 
in the opening at the neck and loosen the liver, heart, etc., from 
the carcase. Then introduce the hand into the opening below, 
loosen the ligaments that bind the entrails to the back, and then 
grasp firmly the mass from the top, and draw evenly and gently 
the whole contents of the body out. The next step is to sepa- 
rate the liver, etc., from the rest. This must be done with care, 
so as not to break the gall bladder, which lies directly under the 
liver. The heart must also be cut away and squeezed gently be- 
tween the fingers, to force out any clot of blood that may have 
lodged there; and, lastly, the gizzard must be freed from the sur- 
rounding membrane and fat, and carefully cut open so as not to 
split th.e inside skin which holds the contents, as then the little 
sack can be removed whole. Unless the turkey is very rank it 
does not need other washing than is recommended for beef. If 
it is rank, wash it in strong soda water and wipe dry. The gib- 
lets should, in this latter case, be soaked in soda water ten or fif- 
teen minutes. Now stuff the craw, pat it into shape, and draw 
the skin over the neck, lap it in the back where the opening was 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 179 

made, and fasten it with a single stitch, tying the ends. Then 
fill the body of the fowl and sew the opening up. Now press 
the legs back towards the upper part of the body, and put your 
trussing needle clear through the carcase, just at the second 
joint, then draw the cord the needle is threaded with through, 
and take the next stitch through the wings, putting the needle 
first through the upper joint, and then bending the tip of the 
wing back and pushing the needle through that, then through 
the body just below or inside of the wishbone, then through the 
tip of the other wing, and finally through the upper joint. Now 
take the needle ofi", and tie the thread which you have brought 
through the upper part of the body to that which you started 
with on the same side of the body. Now turn the turkey over, 
and after threading the needle again, take one stitch through 
the back, just above the oil sack, which must always be cut out, 
and, turning the fowl back, tie the ends of the legs down close 
to the body. A long trussing needle is, of course, needed to pre- 
pare a fowl in this manner. It is something like a mattress 
needle, and a very good home-made one can be manufactured 
from one of the springs that give an umbrella shape. Take one 
of these wires from an old umbrella, sharpen the end, and you 
have a capital trussing needle. 

The turkey is now ready for the oven. Put some scraps of 
pork in the bottom of the dripping-pan, put a slice of pork under 
each wing and a slice over the breast ; then put the turkey in the 
dripping-pan, in a pretty hot oven for the first fifteen minutes. 
After that moderate the heat, and allow from fifteen to twenty 
minutes to the pound, according to the age of the fowl, in a slow 
oven. Baste frequently with the hot drippings from the pork. 

A turkey should be cooked sloivhj and hasted freqiienthj. A 
large turkey needs four hours at least. Rub the inside with salt 
and pepper before stuffing. Half an hour before taking out 
dredge well with flour and baste with melted butter. 

Gravy. — When the turkey is in the oven, put the giblets, or 
the heart, liver, gizzard, and neck, over the fire in cold water; let 
them come gradually to a boil, and then simmer until tender. 
Then chop the heart and gizzard fine, and mash the liver, and 
put all into the bottom of a gravy boat. Now brown a table- 
spoonful of flour and a table-spoonful of l)utter in a saucepan, 



180 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

and then add very gradually the liquor in which the giblets were 
boiled. When the turkey is taken up, the threads removed, and 
it is ready for the table, pour the hot gravy into the gravy boat, 
over the giblets, and serve. 

Serve with cranberries or with currant jelly. 

Sausages are often used to garnish turkeys and chickens. 

BOILED TURKEY WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 

Select a plump turkey for boiling; clean and singe carefully; 
cut off the head and neck and the first joint of the legs. Stuff 
with a dressing made of bread, chopped celery, a little pork or' 
butter, salt and pepper, and a generous allowance of raw oysters. 
Truss carefully, so as to make it look round and plump. Sew it 
tightly in a strong cloth, cover with boiling water, and simmer 
gently two hours. Be careful to skim thoroughly; if boiled hard 
it will be tough. When done take out of the cloth and garnish 
with green celer}-- tops. 

For the oyster sauce or gravy, take two dozen large fresh oys- 
ters, put them in a stew-pan, drain the liquor on them ; let them 
just come to a scald, but not boil. As soon as they are scalded 
take out the oysters; have ready a tea-spoonful of flour, mix 
smooth with a small cup of milk, and salt and pepper to taste, 
and a tea-spoonful of butter; add this to the liquor in which the 
oysters were scalded. Let all boil up once, put in the oysters, 
and serve. 

TO BOIL A TURKEY WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 

Grate a loaf of bread, chop a score or more of oysters fine, add 
nutmeg, pepper and salt to your taste, mix it up into a light 
force meat, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a spoonful or 
two of cream, and three eggs; stuff the craw with it, and make 
the rest up into balls and boil them; sew up the turkey, without 
stuffing the body, dredge it well with flour, put it in a kettle of 
cold water, cover it, and set it on the fire; skim it, let it boil 
very slowly an hour, then take off your kettle and keep closely 
covered; if it be of a middle size let it stand in the hot water 
half an hour, the steam being kept in will stew it enough, make 
it rise, keep the skin whole, tender, and very white; when you 
dish it pour on a little oyster sauce, lay the balls around, and 
serve it up with the rest of the sauce in a boat. The turkey 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 181 

should be set on in time so that it may stew as above; it is the 
best way to boil one to perfection. Put it over the fire to heat 
iust before you dish it up. 

OYSTER SAUCE FOR TURKEY. 

Put a pint of oysters in a bowl, wash them out of their own 
iquor and put them in another bowl; when the liquor has set- 
tled pour it off into a saucepan with a little white gravy and a 
tea-spoonful of lemon juice; thicken it with flour and a good 
lump of butter, boil it three or four minutes, put in a spoonful 
of good cream, add the oysters, keep shaking them over the fire 
till quite hot, but don't let them boil, for it will make them hard 
and shrivel them. 

ROAST CHICKEN. 

A chicken is drawn, stuffed, and baked exactly like a turkey. 

BR0W:5T FRICASSEE OF CHICKEJ^". 

Try the grease from scraps of pork and put into a spider 
or saucepan. Cut up the chicken into as even sized pieces as 
possible, wipe dry, and then brown evenly and thoroughly in the 
hot fat. Add a heaping table-spoonful of flour, and turn the 
pieces of chicken several times until the flour is browned, being 
very careful not to scorch it. Now pour over the whole enough 
boiling water to cover it, and remove to the back part of the 
stove, add pepper and salt to taste, and let it simmer until ten- 
der. This is very nice served in a border of rice. 

WHITE FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. 

Cut up the chicken as before, cover with boiling water, and 
let simmer until tender. Add a cupful of sweet cream, salt and 
pepper to taste, and a table-spoonful of flour wet in a little cold 
milk, and stirred until perfectly smooth. Let it boil up, and 
then pour over slices of biscuit arranged nicely on a platter. 

FRIED CHICKEN. 

Cut up the chicken as for fricassee. See that every piece is 
wiped dry. Put equal quantities of lard and butter into a spider 
and set it on the stoye to heat. Have a plate with a cupful of 
sifted cracker crumbs which are well seasoned with pepper and 



182 SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

salt. Roll the pieces of chicken in this, and then fry them in 
the hot grease, turning often, and browning evenly and well. 

PRESSED CHICKEN. 

Boil two chickens until dropping to pieces. Pick, the meat off 
the bones, taking out all skin; season with salt and pepper, put 
in a deep tin or mold. Take one-fourth of a box of gelatine 
dissolved in a little warm water, add to the gravy left in the 
kettle, pour over the chicken in the mold, and set away to cool. 
When cold remove from the mold and cut in slices. 

JELLIED CHICIvEN. 
(Canadian Receipt.) 
Boil the chicken as above and until the water is reduced to a 
pint. Pick the meat from the bones in fair sized pieces, remov- 
ing all gristle, skin, and bone. Skim the fat from the liquor, add 
an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, and half a packet of 
Nelson's gelatine. Put the cut up chicken into a mold, wet with 
cold water, and when the gelatine has dissolved pour the liquor 
hot over the chicken. Turn out when cold. 

CHICKEN PATTIES. 

Mince cold chicken and stir it into a white sauce made of milk 
thickened with corn starch and flavored with pepper, salt, and 
butter. Line small patty pans with puff paste, bake first, then 
fill with the mixture and set in a hot oven a few minutes to 
brown. 

CHICKEN LOAE. 
(Canadian Receipt.) 
Boil a chicken in as little water as possible, until the meat can 
be easily picked from the bones. Cut it up finely, then put it 
back into the saucepan with two ounces of butter and a season- 
ing of pepper and salt. Grease a square mold, and cover the bot- 
tom with slices of hard boiled egg; pour in the chicken. Place 
a weight on it and set it aside to cool, when it will turn out. 

MACAEONI AND CIIICIC2N. 

Line a tin quart mold with butter about one-half an inch 
thick. Cut macaroni, previously parboiled in salt and water. 



S0UP3^ MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 183 

into inch lengths and stick them close together all over the mold. 
Chop cold chicken or turkey very fine, moisten it with milk or 
gravy and season well with curry or pepper. Fill the mold with 
this mixture, cover closely, and cook long enough to make the 
macaroni very tender. Serve with a white sauce made as 
follows: 

White Sauce — Ingredients. — One tea-spoonful of butter, one 
table-spoonful of flour, one pint of milk^ salt and pepper to taste, 
one table-spoonful of grated cheese. 

Rub the butter and flour together in a saucepan over the fire, 
until the mixture bubbles, add the milk very slowly, stirring all 
the time until of the proper consistency. Add salt and pepper 
and a table-spoonful of grated cheese. 

CHICKEN" CEOQUETTES. 

Chop the meat off from one cold boiled chicken very fine; add 
one-half a tea-cupful of chopped suet, one tea-spoonful of chopped 
parsley, one-fourth of a nutmeg, grated, one tea-spoonful of 
chopped mushroom, one tea-spoonful of chopped onion, one tea- 
cupful of boiled rice (fresh boiled and hot), the juice and grated 
rind of half a lemon, salt, cayenne, and black pepper to taste; 
mix well together, and add just enough sweet cream to make ifc 
right for molding. Form into balls, or rolls, and fry in hot lard. 

Cold beef, cold veal, and cold lamb can be made into croquettes 
in exactly the same way, substituting either for the chicken. 
The canned mushrooms can be used, or they can be omitted alto- 
gether. 

CHICKEN CURRY. 

Cut one large onion, or two small ones, in slices; put a heap- 
ing table-spoonful of butter in a stew-pan, and when it bubbles, 
add the onions and brown them ; now skim out the onions, put 
in the pieces of chicken, cut as for ar fricassee (one chicken), and 
brown them thoroughly on all sides; when they are brown, 
dredge them with a table-spoonful of flour, and turn until this 
too is brown. Pour boiling water slowly over this, stirring all 
the time, using enough to just cover the chicken; return the 
onions, add a bouquet of herbs if possible, and simmer slowly 
until the chicken is tender. Half an hour before serving mix a 
table-spoonful of curry powder to a smooth paste with some of 



184 SOUPS, ME.iTS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 

the gravy, stir it into tlie stew, add the juice of half a lemon, and 
take out the herbs. Cover tightly until done. Serve in a border 
of rice. A sour apple fried with the onion is an improvement. 
Half a tea-cupful of grated, fresh cocoanut is also frequently 
added. 

ROAST GOOSE. 

Select a goose with a clean white skin, plump breast, and yel- 
low feet; if the feet are red the bird is old. Pluck, singe, draw, 
and carefully wipe the goose; cut off the neck close to the back, 
leaving the skin long enough to turn over. Cut off the feet at 
the first joint, and separate the pinions at the first joint. Beat 
the breast pin flat with a rolling-pin, and after stuffing truss 
according to directions for turkey. Prepare the stuffing accord- 
ing to directions, adding sage and onion, a tea-spoonful of the 
former, a dessert-spoonful of the latter. Dredge the top of the 
goose with salt and pepper. Put a cupful of boiling water in 
the bottom of the dripping-pan. Baste often. A large goose 
will require two hours. If you have any suspicion that it is 
tough, pour over it a cupful of vinegar and rub it well in, before 
putting it in the pan. 

DUCKS. 

These are prepared, stuffed and baked in the same way. They 
are generally preferred under done, half an hour being allowed 
for an average sized duck. If they are old it is better to parboil 
them slightly before baking. 

STEWED QUAIL. 

Halve them, lay them in a deep kettle, cover with boiling 
water, and stew gently; skim thoroughly, season with salt and 
pepper, and when nearly done thicken with butter and flour 
rubbed together, made into a paste, and poured slowly in. Boil 
for five minutes after. 

TO ROAST QUAIL DOWN IN" A FLAT BOTTOMED POT. 

Stuff the birds with a bread crumb dressing, seasoned accord- 
ing to directions and adding a little nutmeg; tie them up; rub 
them well with salt, pepper, butter, and flour, and put them in 
the pot, adding a little boiling water, and a heaping table-spoon- 



SOUPS, MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME. 185 

ful of butter; cook them very slowly, closely covered, turn often, 
and make them a light brown. Serve in the gravy from the pot. 

BROILED QUAIL. 

Split them open down the back; dip them in melted butter, 
and broil, turning frequently. Have ready slices of buttered 
toast ; lay each quail on a slice, butter it well, add salt and pep- 
per, and serve. 

A still nicer way is to have a stew-pan over the fire containing 
hot cream salted to taste; when the quail is broiled, lay it for a 
moment in the cream, put it on the toast, and then cover with 
the hot cream. 

PEAIRIE CHICKENS. 
These can be cooked in exactly the same way as quails. 
SADDLE OF VENISON. 

No. 1. — Select a saddle of fresh juicy venison weighing about 
eight pounds. Season with pepper and salt; lard it with pork 
according to directions for larding; dredge with flour; sprinkle 
a little water over it, and put it into a hot, steady oven, with a 
cupful of hot water in the bottom of the dripping-pan. Bake it 
according to directions for roast beef, basting verij often. Allow 
fifteen minutes to the pound. Always serve it steaming hoti 
and with currant or grape jelly. 

A haunch of venison, the neck, and the leg are roasted in the 
same way. 

SADDLE OF YENISON. 
No. 2. — Rub it well with butter; make a paste of flour, salt, and 
water; roll it out and entirely cover the saddle; put it in a mod- 
erate oven and baste often; allow twenty minutes to the pound; 
fifteen minutes before serving, take off the paste, dredge the 
saddle well with flour, baste well, and then when nicely browned 
and frothed on top, serve with jelly. 

VENISON STEAK 

Have the gridiron hot and well greased with butter or the fat 
of steak, turn often, and allow from five to ten minutes, accord- 
ing as the steak is liked rare or well done. When cooked to 
your taste take it off the gridiron, season with salt, pepper, and 
butter, and cover it up for five minutes in the oven. 



OHAPTEE XIII. 




SAVORY SAUCES. 

DEAWN BUTTEE. 

iLLOW three times as mucli butter as flour by weight. 
Put two-thirds of the butter in a saucepan and stir until 
it bubbles; then mix in the flour and stir constantly for 
about five minutes, being very careful the flour does not 
brown. When the flour is well cooked add slowly, stirring 
constantly, enough boiling water, or white stock, to make the 
sauce like thick cream. Let this boil up, then draw to one side 
of the stove and stir in the rest of the butter. Serve at once. 
This is the foundation o£ many white sauces. Add hard boiled 
eggs chopped fine and you have egg sauce; add capers and caper 
sauce is the result; so a flavoring of anchovy gives anchovy sauce, 
etc., etc. 

. CAPEE SAUCE. 

Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan with two table-spoon- 
fuls of flour and stir well on the fire until the mixture assumes a 
brown color; add rather less than a pint of stock, free from fat, 
season with a little pepper, salt, and Worcester sauce. When 
the sauce boils throw in plenty of capers, let it boil once more, 
and it is ready. 

MINT SAUCE FOE LAMB. 

Two table-spoonfuls of chopped mint, one table-spoonful of 
sugar, one-fourth of a pint of vinegar; add water and heat. 

CHILI SAUCE. 

Eight good sized ripe tomatoes, one onion, one green pepper. 
Pare and slice the tomatoes and chop the onion and pepper. 

187 



188 SAVORY SAUCES. 

Stew all together until the peppers are done, two-thirds of a cup 
of vinegar, one-half a cup of sugar. Spice to taste with cloves, 
allspice, cinnamon, and mace. After adding these cook till thick. 

CHILI SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — Forty-eight ripe tomatoes, ten peppers, two large 
onions, two quarts of vinegar, four table-spoonfuls of salt, two 
tea-spoonfuls each of cloves, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg, one 
of sugar. 

Slice the tomatoes, chop the peppers and onions together; add 
the vinegar and spices, and boil until thick enough. Mustard 
and curry powder improves this. 

SAUCE FOE COLD SALMON. 

The yolks of two eggs, half a tea-cupful of cream, a little 
cayenne pepper and salt. Mix them together and simmer in a 
pan, stirring all the time till it thickens. When cold add two 
table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 

TAETAKE SAUCE. 

Put the yolks of four eggs into a basin with salt and mustard 
to taste, and stir olive oil into them, one table-spoonful at a time. 
After each table-spoonful of olive oil put in one tea-spoonful of 
tarragon vinegar. Keep on doing this until the sauce is of the de- 
sired consistency; then add pepper, the least bit of cayenne, and 
a couple of shallots or a few pickled gherkins or onions chopped 
very fine. 

SAUCE FOR FISH. 

Ingredients. — Two ounces of butter, one-half cup of vinegar, 
one tea-spoonful of ground mustard, one tea-spoonful of salt, a 
little pepper. 

Let this boil and add one cup of milk and yolks of two Qggs. 
Let this just boil, stirring all the time. 

EGG SAUCE FOR A SALT COD. . 

Boil four eggs hard; first, half chop the white, then put in the 
yolks and chop them both together, but not very small; put them 
into a pint of good drawn butter and let it boil up, then pour it 
on the fish. 



SAVORY SAUCES. 189 

PISH SAUCE. 

Yolks of two raw eggs; add salad oil, drop by drop, until it is 
of the consistency of thick cream; add the juice of half a lemon. 

MOCK OYSTER SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — One tea-cupful of good gravy, one tea-cupful of 
milk, three dessert-spoonfuls of anchovy sauce, two dessert- 
spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, two ounces of butter, one tea- 
spoonful of pounded mace, whole black pepper. All to be boiled 
until thoroughly mixed. 

BREAD SAUCE. 

Put into half a pint of cold milk one small onion, three or 
four cloves, a blade of mace, a few pepper corns, and a little salt. 
Set the whole to boil, then strain the milk over a tea-cupful of 
fine bread crumbs. Stir well on the fire for a few minutes, add- 
ing at the time of serving either a small pat of butter or a table- 
spoonful of cream. 

WHITE SAUCE EOR GAME. 

Boil an onion in a pint of milk until it is like a jelly; then 
strain and stir into the boiling milk sifted bread crumbs, enough 
to make it like thick cream when well beaten. Beat while boil- 
ing, and season with salt, black and cayenne pepper, and a little 
nutmeg. 

SAUCE FOR TURKEY. 

Cut the crumb of a loaf of bread into thin slices, put it in cold 
water with a few pepper corns, a little salt and onion; then boil 
till the bread is quite soft, beat it well, put in a quarter of a 
pound of butter and two spoonfuls of thick cream, and put it in 
the dish with the turkey. 

CELERY SAUCE. 

Wash and pare a large bunch of celery very clean, cut it into 
little bits, and boil it gently till it is tender; add half a pint of 
cream, some mace, nutmeg, and a small piece of butter rolled in 
flour; then boil it gently. 

This is a good sauce for roasted or boiled fowls, turkeys, par- 
tridges, or any other game. 



190 SAVORY SAUCES. 

SAVORY GRAVY. 

Mince one onion fine; fry it in butter to a dark brown, and 
stir in a table-spoonful of flour. After one minute add half a 
pint of broth, or stock, pepper, salt, and a very small quantity 
of Worcester sauce. 

PLAIN" DUTCH SAUCE, OR SAUCE HOLLANDAISE. 

Pour half a pint of drawn butter into a small saucepan, add 
four raw yolks of eggs, a little grated nutmeg, a little pepper, 
two ounces of fresh butter, and a little salt; stir the sauce briskly 
on the fire in order to set the yolks; pass it through a fine sieve, 
add the juice of half a lemon, and serve at once. 

SAUCE HOLLANDAISE. 

(Dubois' Receipt as given hif Mrs. Henderson.) 

Pour four table-spoonfuls of good vinegar into a small stew-pan 
and add a few pepper corns and some salt; let the liquid boil 
until it is reduced to half; let it cool, then add to it the well beaten 
yolks of four or five eggs, four ounces of good butter, more salt 
if necessary, and a very little nutmeg. Set the stew-pan on a very 
slow fire, and stir the liquid until it is about as thick as cream; 
immediately remove it. Now put this stew-pan or cup into 
another pan containing a little warm water kept at the side of 
the fire. Work the sauce briskly with a spoon, or with a little 
whisk, so as to get it frothy, but adding little bits of butter, in 
all about three ounces. When the sauce has become light and 
smooth it is ready for use. 

TOMATO SAUCE. 

Stew six tomatoes, or half a can of tomatoes, with a spray of 
parsley (if it can be had), two cloves, a tea-spoonful of chopped 
onion, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoon of pepper, half 
an hour. Strain through a sieve and add a cupful of good beef 
stock, if you have it. It is, however, very good without. Now 
put a table-spoonful cf butter and a table-spoonful of flour in 
a saucepan over the fire, and mix well and cook thoroughly. 
Add the tomato pulp by degrees, stirring constantly. Cook a 
few moments. 



SAVORY SAUCES. 191 

MUSHROOM CATSUP. 

Put alternate layers of mushrooms and salt in an earthen jar, 
. using at least a quarter of a pound of salt to two quarts of mush- 
rooms. Let them stand for half a day, then cut the mushrooms in 
small pieces, and let them stand for three days, stirring them well 
once a day; then strain them, and to every quart of juice add half 
an ounce each of allspice and ginger, half a tea-spoonful of pow- 
dered mace, and one tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Put this all 
in a stone jar, set in a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil for 
five hours briskly; then let it simmer in a porcelain kettle for 
three-quarters of an hour; let it stand all night in a cool place; 
in the morning drain off the clear liquor and bottle it, Cork 
the bottles and seal tightly. The smaller bottles you use the bet- 
ter, as the catsup will not keep its distinctive flavor long if ex- 
posed to the air. 

CURRANT CATSUP. 

Six pounds of currants, three pounds of brown sugar, one pint 
of vinegar, one table-spoonful each of cloves and cinnamon, one- 
half table-spoonful each of allspice and black pepper, and a little 
cayenne pepper. Boil all together well from a half to three- 
quarters of an hour. 

TOMATO CATSUP. 

Take a bushel of tomatoes, and cut them in small pieces and 
boil until soft; then rub them through a wire sieve, add two 
quarts of the best cider vinegar, one pint of salt, one-quarter of 
a pound of whole pepper, one-quarter of a pound of allspice, one 
table-spoonful of black pepper, one good-sized pod of red pepper 
(whole), and five heads of garlic. Mix together and boil until 
reduced to one-half the quantity. When cold strain through a 
colander and bottle, sealing the corks. It will keep for two or 
three years as fresh as when made. 

TOMATO CATSUP. 

Ingredients. — One peck of tomatoes, one quarter of a pound 
each of pepper, allspice, and white mustard seed, two ounces of 
cloves, six table-spoonfuls of salt, half a gallon of vinegar. 

Boil slowly six hours; cool and then bottle. 



CHAPTEE XIV. 




FISH AND OYSTERS. 

TO BAKE FISH. 

not remove head or tail; stuflp, sew, or wind a string 
around the fish. Lay pieces of sliced pork across the 
top; sprinkle with water, salt, pepper, and bread crumbs; 
pour hot water into the pan; baste often while baking; 

serve with drawn butter sauce. If not frequently basted, the 

fish will be too dry. 

BAKED FISH. 

A fish weighing from four to six pounds is a good size to bake. 
It should be cooked whole to look well. Make a dressing of 
bread crumbs, butter, salt, and a little salt pork, chopped fine 
(parsley and onions if you please); mix this with one egg. Fill 
the body, sew it up and lay it in a large dripper; put across it 
some pieces of salt pork to flavor it ; put a pint of water and a 
little salt in the pan. Bake it an hour and a half; baste fre- 
quently; after taking up the fish, thicken the gravy and pour 
over it. 

CREAM GRAVY FOR BAKED FISH. 

Have ready in saucepan one cup of cream diluted with a few 
spoonfuls of hot water. Stir in carefully two table-spoonfuls of 
butter and a little chopped parsley ; heat this in a vessel filled 
with hot water. Pour in the gravy from the dripping-pan of 
fish. Boil thick. 

TO BOIL FISH. 

Except salmon. Place in a fish-kettle with salted cold water. 
Add a little vinegar or lemon juice. Boil gently, not to break. 
13 193 



194 FISH AND OSYTERS. 

Remove from the water as soon as thoroughly done, and drain 
before the fire. A little onion, parsley, carrots or cloves, with 
seasoning, adds to flavor and appearance. 

Sauce. — Egg sauce, or Sauce HoUandaise. (See chapter on 
savory sauces.) 

BOILED FISH. 

Choose a good sized fish; lay it in the fish-kettle with plenty 
of well salted cold water; when the water boils draw the kettle 
aside, lift up the fish and let it drain, covered up, over the water 
until the time of serving. Serve with 

White Sauce. — Melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan, add to 
it a dessert-spoonful of flour, mix thoroughly; add salt and white 
pepper to taste, and about a tumblerful of boiling water; stir on 
the fire until it thickens. Then take the saucepan off the fire 
and stir in the yolks of two eggs, beaten up with the juice of a 
lemon, and strained. 

TO FEY FISH. 

Cut this fish in even sized, regular pieces, egg and bread crumb 
and fry in hot lard. 

SCALLOPED FISH. 

Take any remains of cooked fish and pick them to pieces; put 
fine bread crumbs in the bottom of a deep dish, then a layer of 
the fish with a few table-spoonfuls of drawn butter, then the 
bread crumbs, and so on, alternately, until the dish is full. Let 
the top layer be bread crumbs, over which scatter little lumps of 
butter. Bake half an hour. 

EUSSIAN" FISH. 

Tal^e a pound of any cold fish, remove the bones and skin and 
flake it; place at the bottom of a pie dish about an inch thick, 
then put a layer of cold boiled rice (half a tea-cupful is sufficient 
for the quantity of fish), salt and pepper each layer; then, if no 
sauce be left, stew the bones in some milk, thicken with a little 
flour, pepper, salt, and a dessert-spoonful of anchovy sauce, pour 
over the rice layer; put a layer of cold hard boiled eggs cut in 
thin slices (two are enough), another layer of fish, rice, sauce and 
eggs, and when your dish is full, having eggs at the top, scatter 



FISH AND OYSTERS. 195 

a few finely chopped capers, a few small pieces of butter; warm 
thoroughly before the fire or in the oven and serve. 

COD PIE. 

Ingredients. — Any remains of cold cod, oysters, melted butter 
sufficient to moisten, mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish. 

Flake fish from the bone and take all the skin away. Lay in 
a pie dish, pour over it the melted butter and oysters with sauce; 
cover with mashed potatoes. Bake for half an hour, and send 
to table of a rich brown color. 

Instead of melted butter use cream, if preferred. 

HOW TO USE CANNED SALMON. 

Cut round the top of the tin, which place in boiling water for 
a few minutes, until thoroughly heated through, taking care, 
however, that the water does not reach sufficiently high to be in 
danger of flooding the contents. Have ready some nicely mashed 
potatoes, which arrange in a border around a very hot dish; turn 
the salmon into the center of this, removing quickly any pieces 
of bone which may appear amongst the meat. Sprinkle a few 
capers over it, interspersed with morsels of fresh butter, and 
serve immediately before it has time to chill. This dish, if prop- 
erly dressed, could not possibly be told from the remains of fresh 
salmon. Rice, boiled same as for curry, may be substituted for 
potato, and is preferred by many. 

BKOILED MACKEREL. 

Soak over night in cold water, to which is added a little vine- 
gar. Scrape all the black skin from the underside; broil over a 
quick fire, season with butter, and serve. 

ERIED MACKEREL. 

Soak as above, and scrape also; then put into a hot spider 
with a little butter; turn often till browned; when cooked pour 
over the fish, in the spider, one cupful of sweet cream. Dish up 
the fish and pour the gravy over it. 

FISH BALLS. 

Allow twice as much mashed potato as fish; mix well together, 
form into balls, and fry. Use any remains of cold fish. 



196 FISH AND OYSTERS. 

CODFISH FOR BREAKFAST. 

Take the fish and soak over night in cold water made slightly 
acid with vinegar. Wash in clean water; put into a saucepan 
with a lump of butter, and just heat through; then dredge with 
flour and stir well; then add slowly enough rich milk to make 
sufficient gravy. Have some hard-boiled eggs ready; save out 
the yolk of one, and garnish the platter, in the center of which 
the fish is served, with slices of egg^ and pass the yolk through 
a sieve over the top of the fish. 

CLAM CHOWDER. 

Put in a pot a layer of sliced pork, chopped potatoes, chopped 
clams, salt, pepper and lumps of butter, and broken crackers 
soaked in milk; cover with the clam juice and water, stew slowly 
for three hours; thicken with a little flour. It may be seasoned 
with spices if preferred. 

OYSTER STEW. 

Put one quart of oysters in their own liquor on the fire. The 
moment they begin to boil skim oysters out and add to the liquor 
half a pint of hot cream, salt, pepper, and mace to taste. Skim 
well, remove, add to it the oysters and one and one-half ounces 
of butter. Serve hot with toast or crackers. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

Select large, even-sized oysters; strip them and drain; beat two 
eggs slightly; dip the oysters first in the egg, then roll them in 
sifted bread or cracker crumbs; see that they are thoroughly 
coated with the egg and cracker, then fry in hot lard. Salt and 
pepper the crumbs. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 

Be sure to have enough oysters. The trouble with scalloped 
oysters often is that crackers predominate so largely as to en- 
tirely smother the oysters. Strip the oysters, and strain the 
liquor. By stripping the oysters is meant taking each one in 
the fingers and quickly making sure there are no pieces of shell 
adhering to it. Cover the bottom of a deep dish with sifted 
cracker crumbs, pour over these a little of the liquor; next a 



FISH AND OYSTERS. 197 

layer of oysters; season with salt, pepper and butter, and a very 
little mace; then more crumbs and oysters, seasoning as before, 
alternately, until the dish is filled. The top layer should be 
crumbs, seasoned with lumps of butter. Now pour over the 
whole half a tea-cupful of thick, sweet cream. Bake three- 
quarters of an hour, keeping the dish covered half the time; 
then remove the cover and brown. 

OYSTER PATTIES. 
{Home Messenger Receipt Book.) 
Make a rich puff paste, cut in small squares, place a layer of 
oysters, which have been dried on a napkin, on the paste, dust a 
little salt, powdered mace, and cayenne pepper over them, cover- 
ing with another piece of paste; wet the edges of the paste with 
cold water, using a paste brush, and pinch tightly together; bake 
in a rather quick oven to a delicate brown. 

CHICKEN AND OTSTER CROQUETTES. 
Take equal quantities of chicken, oysters, and bread crumbs. 
Chop the chicken and oysters very fine; season with salt and 
pepper and a little mace; moisten with one well-beaten egg and 
enough thick, sweet cream to make just thick enough to handle. 
A lump of butter should be added and stirred well in before the 
egg and cream are used. Egg and bread crumb after forming 
into balls or rolls, and fry in hot lard. 

OYSTERS A LA CR^ME. 

Use one pint of cream, rich and perfectly'- sweet, for one quart 
of oysters. Strip the oysters, and drain them from the liquor; 
strain the liquor. Put the cream over the fire and thicken it with 
a dessert-spoonful of flour, made into a smooth paste with a little 
cold milk; season with salt, pepper, and a little mace; when the 
cream boils, add the liquor from the oysters, which has been 
scalded and skimmed until clear; then put in the oysters, leaving 
them just long enough to heat through. Have ready a platter 
covered with thin slices of toast. 

OYSTER SHORT-CAKE. 
Prepare the oysters as above, and have ready a short-cake crust. 
Split it open while hot, pour the hot oysters on the bottom 
layer, cover, send piping hot to the table. 



198 FISH AND OYSTERS. 

OYSTERS IN THE SHELL. 

Open the shells and keep the deepest ones for use. Melt some 
butter, season with minced parsley and pepper; when slightly 
cool roll each oyster in it, using care that ifc drips but little, and 
lay in the shells. Add to each shell a little lemon juice, cover 
with grated bread crumbs, place in a baking-pan and bake in a 
quick oven; just before they are done add a little salt. Serve 
in the shells. 

OYSTER FRITTERS. 

Time, five or six minutes. Some good sized oysters, four 
whole eggs, a table- spoonful of milk, salt and pepper, crumbs. 

Bread some good sized oysters, make a thick omelet batter 
with four eggs and a table-spoonful of milk, dip each oyster into 
the batter, and then into the grated bread, fry them a nice color 
and use them to garnish fried fish. 



CHAPTEE XV. 




VEGETABLES. 

THE POTATO. 

^HE potato is three-fourths water. The greater part of 
what remains is starch with a little fibrine, albumen 
and a small amount of mineral salts, fat, etc. It will 
be seen from its composition that it is not fit to be 
eaten as an exclusive article of diet. It is too poor in the 
muscle making elements. We also see that bread cannot be 
made from potato meal, since it is too deficient in gluten to 
be capable of vesciculation. As I have said before, a small 
quantity may be added with advantage to bread sponge, as 
the starch is eagerly appropriated by the yeast plant and the 
activity'' of the sponge is thereby increased. In the compo- 
sition of the potato will also be found the reason for the 
addition of fat, milk, eggs, buttermilk, cabbage, etc., which 
are made by those who live chiefly on it. Being deficient 
in fat, in gluten, and other albuminous materials, instinct has 
led the Irishman, for instance, to increase its nutritive power by 
cooking with it cabbage, which is rich in gluten, and adding 
likewise a little pork or bacon for its fat. This combination of 
cabbage, fat, and potato, makes the famous Kol-kannon, which 
gives to the Irish laborer who lives on it, just what he requires, 
a cheap and nutritious food, which yields to him in proper pro- 
portion all that he needs to make him vigorous. Buttermilk, 
too, which is often combined with the potato in Ireland, con- 
taining as it does the casein and salts of the milk, adds to its 
value as food, and when it is enriched still more by the addition 
of some fat cheaper than butter, offers an article of diet which is 
cheap and at the same time sufficient for the needs of the body. 

199 



200 VEGETABLES. 

A laboring man can sustain life on potatoes and salt, but lie will 
certainly lose vigor and capacity for long continued exertion. 

The potato is one of the most valuable of vegetable foods and 
has many qualities to recommend it to the rich and the poor. It 
is one of the few articles found on the tables of both, esteemed 
as a luxury by the former, as a necessity by the latter. It is 
easily cultivated, yielding nearly always a rich return for com- 
paratively little labor, and requires no great extent of land to 
supply the wants of an ordinary family. It can be kept from 
one season to the next without great expense and with a reason- 
able degree of care, and it never wearies the palate. It is like 
bread in the universality of its use, and a knowledge of the proper 
methods of cooking it is, therefore, of great importance. 

Its history you are, doubtless, acquainted with. It is thought to 
be a native of Chili, and was brought to England by Sir Walter 
Raleigh in the sixteenth century. The story of his attempts to in- 
troduce it as food is interesting. It was planted in his garden in 
the county of Cork in Ireland, and the gardener, mistaking the 
seedballs that grew on the plant for that which was to be cooked, 
brought them to the cook to be prepared for her master's table. 
They were declared unpalatable and the gardener ordered to dig 
up the plant and throw it away, Sir Walter imagining he had 
brought home the wrong vegetable. Upon digging it up, the 
potatoes were discovered and a new trial made. This time they 
were so badly cooked, or rather so little cooked, being sent to the 
table nearly raw, that they stuck like wax to the teeth of those 
who tried to masticate them. They would have been again re- 
jected had not some guest at the table, who had happened to 
have seen them elsewhere, explained the mistake and caused them 
to be returned to the fire. It was not, however, until more than 
a hundred years later that they came into anything like general 
use. 

No vegetable is, perhaps, as a rule, more carelessly and 
wretchedly cooked than the potato. The most economical 
method is to cook them in their jackets. The waste caused by 
paring is at least 14 per cent, while cooked in the skins it is but 
3 per cent. The salts moreover which add flavor to the potato 
lie next the skin and they are largely lost when this is cut off. 
We thus impair the taste as well as diminish the quantity when 



VEaETABLES. 201 

we remote tlie skins before cooking. There is considerable dis- 
cussion as to whether they should be thrown into hot or cold 
water to be boiled. So high an authority as Dr. Edward Smith 
says: "Potatoes and similar vegetables should be well cooked 
with a considerable degree of heat. If it be intended to boil them 
they should be placed at once in hot water, and if to be roasted 
the oven should be moderately hot. When peeled and soaked 
in cold water a larger proportion of the fecula will be extracted 
than is desirable, and with a slow oven the peel will be hardened 
and thickened." 

TO BOIL POTATOES. 

Throw them at once into boiling hard water, to which salt 
in the proportion of a tea-spoonful to one quart has been added. 
When tender the water should be well drained off and the kettle 
placed on the back of the stove and covered with several thick- 
nesses of cloth, a clean kitchen towel folded two or three times 
answering this purpose. This cloth allows the steam to pass 
through and at the same time keeps the potatoes warm and dry. 
[f left for a few moments to dry off in this way they will be- 
come dry and mealy. Boiled potatoes should never be served 
in a covered dish. The cover will confine the steam, which will 
condense and fall back on the potatoes rendering them sodden 
and waxy. The best way to bing them to the table is in a dish 
in which a warm napkin has been placed. The ends of the 
napkin can then be folded over the potatoes. This will serve 
every purpose of a cover and at the same time will not be im- 
pervious to steam. 

Boiled potatoes should be eaten the moment the starch cells 
are burst and the potato is tender. The skin acts upon the inte- 
rior of the potato just as the cover of a vegetable dish acts upon 
the potatoes it contains. It keeps all the moisture inside the 
potato. 

TO BAKE POTATOES. 

Select as even sized and regular shaped potatoes as possible; 
cut a thin rim of skin off as for boiled potatoes. Put them on 
the grate in the middle of a ver^'^ hot oven and bake rapidly for 
half an hour for ordinary sized potatoes. They should be eaten 
the moment the starch cells are burst and the potato is tender. 



202 VEGETABLES. 

MASHED POTATO. 

Boil according to preceding directions. When perfectly tendei 
remove to an earthenware bowl or a very bright tin pan. Be 
sure to have this and everything that is to be added as seasoning 
hot. Heat the milk and butter together. Let salt and pepper 
be near at hand. Then mash thoroughly and when every lump 
is out, season with salt and pepper and stir in the heated milk 
and butter. Make the mixture quite soft, and now comes the 
most laborious and important part of the process. After the 
seasoning is all in, and most persons would consider the potato 
ready for the table, it should be beaten to a creamy snow-white 
froth, with a large fork. It needs a strong arm and plenty of 
energy. Do not feel entirely satisfied until the mixture looks 
light and foamy, like the beaten whites of egg. Potatoes mashed 
after this method will not be recognized as the same article as 
the heavy, stiflf, lumpy food often offered as " mashed potato." 

POTATO s:tirow. 

After the potato is prepared according to the above directions, 
press it through a colander into the vegetable dish in which it 
is to be served, and it will not only be extremely palatable, but 
will be "a thing of beauty" as well, adorning the table, and giv- 
ing pleasure to the eye, while at the same time it appeals to the 
"inner man." 

DUCHESSE POTATOES. 

When the potatoes are boiled, press them at once through a 
colander. Season with salt, pepper, butter and a very little nut- 
meg. To two cupf uls of mashed potato, add the beaten yolks of 
two eggs. Now flour your pastry board. Take half of this mix- 
ture at once, flour your hands, and press it into a long roll. Cut 
round cakes from the end of this, brush the top of each with 
the white of eggs, and brown in the oven, or put the entire roll 
in a greased pan, brush it over with the white, and brown. 

POTATO PUFF. 

Press the hot potatoes through the colander as for Duchesse 
potato. Season with salt, pepper, butter and milk, as for 
Mashed potato. To two cupf uls of this, take two eggs; beat 
yolks and white separately. Mix in the yolks and lastly the 



VEaETABLES. 203 

stiffly beaten whites. Have ready a greased pan or pudding dish, 
and put this mixture in it by spoonfuls, heaping them up in a 
light and uneven way. Brown in the oven. 

LYOXXAISE POTATOES. 

Cut cold boiled potatoes into even and rather thick slices. 
Cut, also, an onion in the same way. Put a spoonful of butter, 
or any sweet drippings, into a saucepan, over the stove. When 
it is hot, drop in the sliced onion and shake it about until it is 
a very delicate cream color, hardly a brown; then put in the 
sliced potato and shake until that, too, is delicately colored; 
add salt and pepper, and lastly a spoonful of chopped parsley. 
When this is thoroughly mixed with the potato and onion, place 
on a small platter, or in a shallow vegetable dish, and serve at 
once. 

POTATO CROQUETTES. 

Ingredients. — Three cups of cold mashed potato, one cup of 
sweet cream, a little salt, and two well-beaten eggs. 

Mold into balls, egg and bread crumb and fry a delicate brown 
in hot lard. 

POTATO MUFFLE. 

Potatoes mashed fine, butter and salt as for table. Add one 
cup of sweet cream, six eggs beaten separately whites and yolks. 
Bake in a pudding dish until browm. 

POTATO BUMPO. 

Boil some mealy potatoes, mash them with butter and cream, 
season well, and put a layer of this in the bottom of a pudding 
dish; then put a layer of any kind of cold chopped meat or fish 
well-seasoned, then another layer of potato, and so on until the 
dish is full, making the last layer one of potato. Strew bread 
crumbs over the top with little pieces of melted butter. Bake 
until well browned. 

SARATOGA POTATO. 

Shave thin, soak in ice-water thirty minutes, dry, and fry in 
boiling lard to light brown; drain and salt. Serve hot in folded 
napkin. 



204 VEGETABLES. 

PARISIENNE POTATOES. 

Cut small balls with the potato-cutter described in the chapter 
on utensils; parboil in hot water well-salted, and then fry brown 
in hot lard. 

SWEET POTATO. 

Take those that are nearly of the same size, that they may be 
done equally; wash them clean, but do not peel them; boil them 
till tender, drain the water off and put them in the oven for a 
few minutes, to dry. 

SWEET POTATOES BROILED. 

Cut them across without peeling, in slices half an inch thick; 
broil them on a griddle and serve them with butter. 

TO STEW CABBAGE. 

Parboil in milk and water and drain it; then shred and put 
into a stew-pan with a tea-spoonful of butter, a tea-cup of cream, 
pepper and salt to taste, and stew until tender. 

DRESSING FOR CABBAGE. 

One half cup of vinegar, table-spoonful of butter, one egg. 
Beat the egg, heat all together, and pour on the chopped cabbage. 

CABBAGE A LA CREME. 

(English Receipt.) 
For this entree, which is very delicate if carefully prepared, it 
is necessary to choose a cabbage as firm and white as possible. 
Throw the vegetable into some boiling water with some salt and 
boil till it is almost done, but not quite tender. Take it out and 
drain it thoroughly from all moisture. Then cut it up length- 
wise into several pieces. Melt about an ounce of butter in a 
stew-pan. The quantity of butter must be regulated by the size 
of the cabbage; sufficient must be used to make a rich sauce. 
Add salt, white pepper to prevent any discoloration, and a spoon- 
ful of flour; then put in the cream, according to taste, in any 
case not less than a quarter of a pint. Lay in the pieces of cab- 
bage, and finish cooking in the sauce until perfectly tender. 
Arrange symmetrically on the dish, and place some fried croft- 
tons round. 



VEGETABLES. 205 

CABBAGE FAUCI, OR STUFFED. 

{English Receipt.) 
Cook the cabbage in salt and water sufficiently to open the 
leaves, and insert between them ordinary veal stuffing, slices of 
sausage meat, or some highly-spiced force meat; then tie it se- 
curely round with thread to prevent the force meat falling out. 
Replace in the stew-pan, and cook briskly at first, then simmer 
until completely tender. Serve with a little gravy poured over 
the whole. In winter roast chestnuts hidden in the center are 
sometimes added, when it is termed " chou en surprise." 

CABBAGE. 

Cabbage takes two hours in cooking. Cut it in quarters and 
examine it carefully to see that there are no insects or worms 
concealed between the leaves; then pour boiling water over it 
and let it stand half an hour; then put it in boiling, well-salted 
water, and boil till tender. It is well to set the dish containing 
it in the wood-shed while it is soaking the half hour, as then the 
odor does not fill the house, and soaking in this way and chang- 
ing the water prevents, in a great measure, the strong smell 
which is such an annoyance in the usual method of boiling cab- 
bage. When the cabbage is done, drain thoroughly in a colan- 
der, and then pour over it a little melted butter. Or cut the 
cabbage as for salad, and then pour the boiling water on it and 
let it stand as before, then put in fresh boiling water to cook 
until tender, then drain and boil up once in cream or milk. 

COLD SLAW. 

Sprinkle a quart of finely-chopped cabbage lightly with salt, 
and let it stand one hour; drain off the brine into a saucepan; 
add to it one cupful of strong vinegar, a tea-spoonful of but- 
ter, a tea-spoonful of mustard mixed smoothly with a little cold 
water and a salt-spoonful of pepper. When it boils stir in two 
well-beaten eggs and three table-spoonfuls of rich sweet cream; 
pour hot on the cabbage. Let it stand until cold, and serve. It 
is exceedingly nice. 

ONIONS. 

New onions can be boiled in one hour. Late in the fall and 
all winter the time must be increased to two hours. Throw them 



206 VEGETABLES. 

into boiling, well-salted water. After boiling balf an hour 
change this water; renew the water, using boiling water each 
time, three times. Fifteen minutes before time to serve put a 
little sweet cream, a half a tea-cupful for eight or ten onions, 
over the fire in a stew-pan, and heat. Add a spoonful of butter, 
and stir it all the time until the butter is melted. Season with 
salt and pepper. Drain the onions out of the water, and boil 
them up once in this hot cream. 

BAKED OmONS. 

Boil until tender in well-salted water, according to directions; 
then arrange them in a baking dish, put a lump of butter on the 
top of each onion, and sprinkle over them some sifted bread 
crumbs; pour half a cupful of sweet cream into the dish and 
bake slowly half an hour. 

FRIED ONIONS. 

Slice the raw onions into a saucepan; add a heaping table- 
spoonful of sweet drippings; fry thirty minutes, turning often. 

TO STEW TOMATOES. 

If the tomatoes are fresh throw them in boiling water and re- 
move the skins. Then cut away all the hard pith in the center 
and slice the tomato very fine. Put in a saucepan and stew 
gently half an hour. Long boiling makes the tomato very dark 
colored and very acid. Season with salt, pepper and butter, and 
if liked thickened, add a few very fine bread or cracker crumbs. 

If the tomatoes to be stewed are canned instead of fresh, they 
need not stew more than fifteen minutes. After the can is 
opened examine its contents, and see that there are no hard, 
green pieces left in when you put the tomatoes on to stew. Cut 
them into fine pieces, and stir and mash them until they are re- 
duced to an even, fine pulp. Season as before, and serve hot. 

BAKED TOMATOES. 

Have a quantity of fine bread or cracker crumbs prepared as 
for scalloped oysters. Put a layer of these crumbs in the bottom 
of a greased baking dish or bright tin pan, and cover with a layer 
of tomatoes; sprinkle salt, pepper, and place little lumps of but- 
ter over this layer. Add also a few small pieces of raw onion — 



VEGETABLES. 207 

just enough to flavor slightly; then another layer of bread crumbs 
and another of tomatoes^ seasoned as before. Alternate in this 
manner until the dish is filled. The top layer should be crumbs. 
Put a little butter on this layer so as to brown the crumbs. Now 
put in a slow oven; allow an hour and a half for the baking if 
the tomatoes are fresh, one hour if canned. Keep the dish cov- 
ered the first hour. Remove the cover half an hour before time 
to serve and allow the dish to brown nicely. 

TO BROIL TOMATOES. 

Broiled tomatoes make a delicious dish; select those that are 
not over ripe, and cut them in halves crosswise; dip the cut side 
into beaten egg, and then into wheat flour, and place them upon 
a gridiron, whose bars have been previously greased. As they 
become well browned turn them over and cook the skin side 
until thoroughly done. Put butter, salt, and pepper upon the 
egg side and serve upon a platter. 

STUFFED TOMATOES. 

Get them as large and firm as possible. Cut a round place in 
the top, scrape out all the soft parts; mix with stale bread 
crumbs, onions, parsley, butter, pepper, salt; chop very fine and 
fill the tomatoes carefully; bake in a moderately hot oven; put a 
little butter in the pan and see that they do not burn or become 
dry. Serve on slices of buttered toast. 

GREEJ^" TOMATOES FRIED. 

Cut the tomatoes in slices about one-fourth of an inch thick 
and soak one hour in brine strong enough to season them. For 
every three tomatoes add one onion, of about the same size, 
sliced. Fry together in sweet drippings with a little butter 
added. Frj' until tender or until they can be pierced with a 
broom straw. 

TURI^IPS. 

Winter turnips need to be cooked two hours in well salted, 
boiling water. When they are perfectly tender, either mash and 
season well with salt, pepper, and butter, and then place smoothly 
and in good shape in a vegetable dish and finish by dotting vsdth 
sprinkles of red pepper; or, cut in slices, arrange neatly in a 



208 VEGETABLES. 

vegetable dish, and pour over them a little melted butter; sprinkle 
with salt and add a small quantity of red pepper as before. 

TURNIPS A LA CR£:ME. 

Boil them as directed; slice them evenly; have a saucepan with 
hot cream, slightly thickened with flour and seasoned with salt 
and pepper, over the fire ; heat the sliced turnip in this and serve 
in a hot dish. 

EGG PLANT. 

The purple ones are best; get them young and fresh, pull out 
the stem and parboil them to take out the bitter taste; cut them 
in slices an inch thick, but do not peel them; dip them in the 
yolk of an egg and cover tliem with grated bread and a little 
pepper and salt — when this has dried, cover the other side in the 
same way — fry them a nice brown. 

SUMMER SQUASH. 

Gather young squashes, peel and cut them in two; take out 
the seeds and boil them till tender; drain off the water and rub 
them through a colander with a wooden spoon; then put them 
in a stew-pan with a cupful of cream, k small piece of butter, 
some pepper and salt; stew them, stirring frequently until dry. 
This is the most delicate way of preparing squashes. 

WINTER SQUASH. 

Cut in pieces, pare, and cut away the soft, stringy part. Cover 
with boiling water and cook till tender; then drain, return to the 
hot kettle, mash, season with butter, pepper and salt, and stir a 
few moments till thoroughly hot and dry. Squash is also good 
steamed. 

BAKED SQUASH. 

Cut in pieces; do not pare, but cut away the soft part as be- 
fore directed. Bake until done; then scrape the squash away 
from the rind, season, heat, and serve. 

SPINACH. 

Pick and wash perfectly clean two or three pounds of spinach, 
put into a saucepan with a little water and let it boil till quite 



VEGETABLES. 209 

done. Turn it out on a hair sieve to drain, tlirow the water 
away and pass the spinach through the sieve. Put a good lump 
of butter into a saucepan with a pinch of flour, mix well, add the 
spinach, pepper and salt to taste, and a little milk; stir well and 
serve. 

BOILED ASPARAGUS. 

Place heads one way; tie in small bundles and cut off in equal 
lengths; put into salted boiling water and boil until tender; 
when well drained arrange upon thin slices of toast; pour over 
them drawn butter sauce; cook eighteen minutes. 

BEETS. 

Wash but do not scrape or cut at all, or you will injure the 
color. Old beets cannot be boiled too much; allow at least five 
hours. Young beets will cook in half that time. When tender, 
plunge into cold water, and the skin will come off easily. 

STRING BEANS. 

Cut into inch lengths after stringing them; put into boiling, 
well salted water; boil one hour; season with butter, salt and 
pepper. 

PEAS. 

Throw into well salted, boiling water; cook from twenty to 
thirty minutes; season with salt, pepper, butter, and add a little 
sweet cream. 

BOILED PARSNIPS. 

Scrape and boil one hour. If very large it is well to cut them 
in lengthwise slices. They can be served with drawn butter, or 
simply seasoned with butter, salt, and pepper. 

FRIED PARSNIPS. 
Boil as above, and then fry the slices in hot laxd or pork fat. 

BOILED CARROTS. 

Scrape and boil until tender (from one to two hours). They 
should be cut in slices before boiling, and throw a into boiling, 
well salted water. Pour over them drawn butter. 
14 



210 VEaETABLES. 

CORK 

Remove the husks and silk and throw into boiling water. 
Young corn will boil tender in half an hour. Serve covered with 
a napkin. 

TO BOIL CORN ON THE COB. 

(Mrs. Henderson.) 
At the Saratoga Lake House there is a third specialty of good 
things. The first is the fried potato, the second is the fresh 
trout, the third is boiled corn, which is served as a course by itself. 
The corn is boiled in the husk. The latter imparts sweet- 
ness and flavor to the corn, besides keeping it moist and tender. 
The unhusked corn is put into salted boiling water, and when 
done, and well-drained, some of the outside husks are removed, 
and the corn is served with the remaining husks about it; or, the 
cobs may be broken from the husks just before sending to the 
table, which would save this trouble afterward. 

CORN CUT FROM THE COB. 

Cut the corn from the cob, scrape the cob so as to be sure of 
getting all the juice or milk of the corn. Cover with boiling 
water and cook one hour; then pour in a tea-cupful of sweet 
cream, or rich milk, season with butter, salt and pepper and 
serve. 

CORN PATTIES. 

Twelve ears of corn, grated, one tea-spoonful of salt, one tea- 
spoonful of pepper, one egg beaten into two table-spoonfuls of 
flour. Fry in hot butter or lard. 

MOCK OYSTERS. 

One pint of grated green corn, three table-spoonfuls of milk, 
one tea-cup of flour, one half tea-cup of drawn butter, one tea- 
spoonful of pepper, one egg. Drop a table-spoonful into hot 
butter and fry from eight to ten minutes, or can be baked on a 
griddle. Can be made without eggs and butter. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

Trim off the outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the 
bottom. Put the cauliflower, head down, in salt and water, and 



VEGETABLES. 211 

leave it to soak one hour to free it from vermin; then rinse off, 
put into salted boiling water and boil rapidly until tender. 
Serve plain, or pour drawn butter over them. 

COOICED CUCUMBERS. 

Peel and cut into quarters. Remove the seeds. Put into 
salted boiling water and boil until tender. When done, place 
on buttered toast and spread with butter. 

SLICED CUCUMBERS. 

Slice thin and soak in ice-water, well salted, at least an hour 
before serving. Drain them from the ice-water and send to 
table. 

MACARONI. 

Look over carefully one-half pound of macaroni, but do not 
wash it unless absolutely necessary. Break it as little as possi- 
ble. Plunge it into well-salted boiling water and let it boil rap- 
idly twenty minutes. While it is boiling, melt together in a 
saucepan, over the fire, one table-spoonful each of butter and 
flour. When they are thoroughly blended, add by degrees, one 
pint of sweet milk, stirring constantly so that the mixture will 
be perfectly smooth. Season with salt and white pepper. Drain 
the macaroni and put a layer of it in the bottom of an earthen- 
ware or tin baking dish ; cover this with a few spoonfuls of the 
sauce, and a sprinkle of grated cheese, Parmesan being the best, 
then another layer of macaroni, sauce and cheese, until the dish 
is full, having a good layer of cheese on top of the dish. Now 
brown in the oven and serve hot. The macaroni can be prepared 
simply with the sauce, omitting the cheese. 

MACARONI WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

Boil the macaroni as above, cover with tomato sauce and set 
in the oven ten or fifteen minutes, long enough for the macaroni 
to absorb the sauce. (For Tomato Sauce, see chapter on "Savory 
Sauces.") 



212 VEGETABLES. 

MACAKOKI CROQUETTES. 

Boil one half pound (or one half a paper) of macaroni in 
salted water the usual way. When done and drained, chop it 
verijjine, then add pepper, salt, two eggs and a cupful of grated 
cheese. Put a tea-spoonful of butter in a saucepan and when it 
is bubbling hot add the macaroni mixture and let it cook about 
five minutes, stirring all the time. When the mixture is cool 
enough, form into shape, roll in egg and cracker crumbs and fry 
in boiling lard. Serve with tomato sauce. 



OHAPTEE XVI. 




SALADS. 

MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 

J ^UT the uncooked yolk of an egg into a cold bowl. Beat 
^'''l™ it well with a wooden spoon, then add two salt-spoon- 
fuls of salt, and one salt-spoonful of mustard powder. 
Work them well a minute before adding the oil, then 
mix in a little good oil which must be poured in very slowly, a few 
drops at a time, at first alternated occasionally with a few drops 
of vinegar. In proportion as the oil is used the sauce should gain 
in consistency. When it begins to have the appearance of jelly, 
alternate a few drops of lemon juice with the oil. When the 
egg has absorbed a gill of oil finish the sauce by adding a very 
little pinch of cayenne pepper and one-half a tea-spoonful of 
good vinegar. Taste it to see if there are enough salt, pepper, 
mustard, and cayenne; if not, add more very carefully. 

EKENCH SALAD DRESSING. 

Ingredients. — Three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, one table- 
spoonful of vinegar, one salt-spoonful of salt, one-half salt- 
spoonful of pepper. 

Mix the oil, pepper, and salt together; add the oil stirring 
well, 

SALAD DRESSING. 

To six eggs well beaten add one small tea-spoonful each of 
salt and pepper, one table-spoonful each of mustard and sugar, 
one cup of sweet cream, piece of butter the size of an egg. Of 
this make a custard and when cold add one coffee-cup of cider 
vinegar. 

213 



214 SALADS. 

SALAD DRESSING. 

Beat up two hard boiled yolks of eggs, mix with them one salt- 
spoon of table salt, one mustard-spoon of raw mustard, one tea- 
spoonful of soft sugar, one cayenne-spoon of cayenne pepper. 
When all is well pounded add, very gently, mixing all the time, 
four table-spoonfuls of cream or milk, and about two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar; the last must be put in slowly, as it 
depends on the strength of the vinegar how much to use. Stop 
pouring in when the dressing becomes thick. The basin may be 
rubbed over with garlic or onion if the flavor is liked. 

TOMATO MAYONNAISE. 

Pare smooth even-sized, ripe tomatoes without scalding them. 
Slice rather thickly, keeping each tomato by itself so it can be 
put back in shape. Marinate the tomatoes by soaking them for 
a moment in the French dressing; arrange the slices so that the 
tomatoes seem to be whole, and put a spoonful of the Mayon- 
naise dressing on the top of each one. This makes both a 
beautiful and a delicious salad. 

TOMATO SALAD. 

Slice alternate layers of onion and tomato, and salt the onion 
suflScient to season the whole. Let it stand one-half hour and 
then pour over it the following: 

FEENCH SALAD MIXTURE. 

Ingredients. — Three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, one table- 
spoonful of vinegar, one salt-spoonful of salt, one-half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper. 

Mix thoroughly the oil, salt and pepper, and add the vinegar, 
stirring well. 

CELERY SALAD. 

Ingredients. — The yolk of one egg^ two table-spoonfuls of 
cream, one table-spoonful of white sugar, three table-spoonfuls 
of vinegar, one tea-spoonful of olive oil, one tea-spoonful of 
made mustard, a pinch of salt, celery. 

Beat the yolk of the egg, add the other ingredients and pour 
it over the celery, cut into inch lengths. 



SALADS. 215 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

Ingredients. — One boiled chicken cut in small pieces, four 
leaves of celery cut fine, two cucumber pickles cut fine, a small 
quantity of hashed cabbage, so that the proportion shall be one- 
third meat to two-thirds cabbage, etc. 

Rub the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs to a paste, add two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, one table-spoonful of mustard, one 
table-spoonful of salt, one-half table-spoonful of black pepper 
and one-fourth as much cayenne, one tea-spoonful of vinegar, 
yolk of one e^g, uncooked. Pour this dressing over the salad 
just before placing on the table. 

EUSSIAN SALAD. 

Cut into pieces about an inch long carrots, French beans, po- 
tatoes, cucumbers, onions, beet root, lettuce, endive, green peas, 
and a little tarragon — in fact any cold vegetables you may hap- 
pen to have (but of course the tarragon, cucumbers, lettuce and 
endive are not to be boiled); mix all together with a very rich 
salad dressing. When all is mixed add the lettuce, endive, etc., 
and mix in with the cold vegetables small pieces of cold boiled 
salmon or lobster, or both if you have them. Turn the whole 
well over together, and put into the dish; garnish well with 
hard-boiled eggs cut in four, be^et root according to your own 
fancy, and little sprays of parsley. The consistency of the salad 
dressing should be that of good cream. 

RUSSIAI^ SALAD. 

To make this in the greatest perfection, small pieces of the 
flesh of partridges, poultry, or cold salmon are required, a few 
anchovies filleted, turnips, carrots, asparagus heads, green peas, 
French beans, beet root, prauns, and capers — all finely chopped; 
eschallot, pepper, mustard, vinegar, and caviare. The cold vege- 
tables should be cut in small dice, and the amalgamation must 
be so cleverly managed as not to allow any one flavor to pre- 
dominate. Of course this receipt can be greatly modified and 
Btill be very appetizing. 



216 SALADS. 

CABBAGE SALAD. 

Ingredients. — One small head of cabbage, one-half a bunch of 
celery, one-fourth of a cup of vinegar, one-fourth table-spoonful 
each of mustard, sugar, pepper, and salt, one egg well beaten. 

Take a little of the vinegar to wet the mustard, put the rest 
over the fire; when boiling stir in the other ingredients and cook 
until it becomes thick; pour it over the cabbage while hot and 
mix it well. When cold it is ready for the table. The same 
sauce, when cold, will do for lettuce. 

HERRII^^G SALAD. 

Ingredients. — Two dozen potatoes which have been pared and 
boiled, six salted cucumbers, two gherkins, two dozen apples 
pared, cold veal, the same quantity as of herring, and four salted 
herrings which have been soaked in cold water for some hours, 
then taken out, skinned, and boned. 

Chop the veal, herrings, potatoes, apples, cucumbers and gher- 
kins, and some capers, fine. Make the dressing of three table- 
spoonfuls of olive oil, one table-spoonful of vinegar, a salt-spoon 
of salt, a pinch of cayenne, one-half tea-spoonful of sugar, three- 
fourths of a tea-spoonful of dry mustard — mix all together; if 
too dry a little stock may be added. 

This salad must be nicely formed on a dish, rather high in the 
center, and then can be garnished to taste with beets cut in dif- 
ferent shapes; also small pickles, olives, capers, etc. This is ex- 
cellent. 

SAUERKRAUT SALAD. 

Chop fine as much onion as is needed to flavor the salad, and 
salt it well. Mix it with the cold sauerkraut, and allow all to 
stand until the kraut has the flavor of the onion. Make a dress- 
ing of sour cream and a little vinegar, pour it over the mixture 
and serve. 

SALMOK MAYONJ^AISE. 

Drain thoroughly half a can of salmon, and flake it into rather 
small pieces. Cover the bottom of a salad bowl with leaves of 
lettuce, drop in a layer of salmon, season with the French dress- 
mg, add small pieces of pickle, capers, or beets, also slices of hard- 



SALADS. 217 

boiled eggs; put a few more leaves of lettuce, then another layer 
of salmon, seasoned as before, and so on until the bowl is full. 
Mask the top with the mayonnaise sauce, and garnish with let- 
tuce, celery tops, beets, capers, eggs, or anything suitable. 

Chicken, cold veal, cold beef, cold mutton, can be made into a 
mayonnaise in the same way, and all are exceedingly good. 

CHICIvEN SALAD. 

Boil the chicken until tender, pick all the meat from the 
bones, and free it perfectly from skin, fat and gristle. Use half 
as much celery as chicken; do not cut either very fine; mix them 
thoroughly and marinate with the French dressing. Shape in 
a salad bowl, or on a platter, and mask with ma3'^onnaise sauce. 
Garnish with the celery tops, capers, olives, beets, etc. 

Cabbage (the hard part) can be used in the place of celery. Id 
that case, season with celery salt. 



CHAPTEE XVII, 




PICKLES. 

FRENCH PICKLE. 

jNE peck of green tomatoes chopped fine, six chopped 
onions, one cup of salt stirred in. Let it stand over 
night. Drain off the water, then take two quarts of 
water and one quart of vinegar, boil all together twenty 
minutes and strain through a colander. Then take two quarts 
of vinegar, two pounds of sugar, one pound of white mustard 
seed, two table-spoonfuls each of ground pepper, cinnamon, 
cloves, ginger, ground mustard. Put all in a kettle and boil 
fifteen minutes. 

MUSTAED PICKLES. 

Ingredients. — One hundred small cucumbers, two quarts of 
silver skinned onions, two quarts of French beans, two cauli- 
flowers, one pint nasturtiums, one dozen small red peppers, one- 
half pound ground mustard, two quarts vinegar. 

Salt each of these vegetables twenty-four hours, then scald 
them well with vinegar separately and throw the vinegar away; 
then take one-half pound of ground mustard, beat it smooth 
with a little vinegar and pour over it two quarts of boiling 
vinegar. 

Mix the pickles thoroughly and pack them as close as possible 
in bottles, fill with the vinegar and mustard, and seal. This makes 
an elegant pickle. 

RIPE CUCUMBER PICKLES. 

Ingredients. — One quart of vinegar, one pound of sugar, 
spices. 

Peel the ripe cucumbers and take out the seeds, cut in length- 

219 



220 PICKLES. 

wise slices. Mix together the sugar, vinegar, and spices to taste, 
put in the fruit and let the whole stand over night. In the 
morning boil all together until the cucumber is tender. 

CHOPPED PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — Cut four cabbages as for slaw, one dozen green 
peppers, one peck of green tomatoes, one dozen cucumbers. 

Chop all together; sprinkle with salt and let stand over night; 
drain off all the water. To every quart' of the mixture add one 
pint of onions, chopped and scalded; stir them in with the other 
ingredients, put in a jar, and cover with vinegar, and let it stand 
twenty-four hours; then drain and put a layer of the mixture, a 
layer of ground mace, with black and white mustard seed alter- 
nately. Take vinegar enough to cover it, add spices, and to every 
quart of vinegar add one-half pound of brown sugar. Boil and 
pour over while hot. This makes a splendid pickle. 

PICKLED PLUMS. 

Ingredients. — One peck of plums, one pint of vinegar, one 
ounce of cloves, one ounce of cinnamon, four pounds of sugar. 

Boil the vinegar, sugar and spices together; pour boiling hot 
over the fruit, leave two days. Drain the fruit, boil the liquor, 
and pour again boiling hot over the fruit. 

SPICED CURRANTS. 

Ingredients. — Seven pounds of currants, three and one-half 
pounds of sugar, one pint of vinegar, one table-spoonful of cloves, 
one table-spoonful of cinnamon, one tea-spoonful of mace. 

Can while hot. 

SPICED PEACHES. 

To seven pounds of fruit add three pounds of sugar, one pint 
of vinegar, cloves, cinnamon, and a little mace. Pour this syrup 
boiling hot over the peaches for nine mornings. 

GREEN TOMATO SWEET PICKLES. 

Three pounds of white sugar to one quart of vinegar, and spice 
to suit the taste; put in a porcelain lined kettle and let it come 
to a boil; have ready six pounds of green tomatoes unpared, 
sliced or whole as you prefer; drop them in and cook until tender. 



PICKLES. 221 

PICKLED CABBAGE. 

Take the red cabbage, remove the outer leaves, and shred; 
sprinkle thoroughly with fine salt; let it remain with salt two 
days, removing the water; make a pickle with vinegar, four 
ounces each of ground pepper and ground ginger, and one ounce 
of cloves and boil it; put the cabbage in jars, packing closely; 
when the vinegar with spices is on the boil fill up the jars. Will 
be good to eat in a week. 

gree:n' tomato pickles. 

Ingredients. — One peck green tomatoes, ten white onions, six 
green peppers, one small box of mustard, two quarts of vinegar, 
one and one-half pints of salt, one-half pound of white mustard 
seed, one-fourth of a pound of whole cloves, one table-spoonful 
of black pepper. 

Cut the onions and tomatoes in thin slices and chop the pep- 
pers fine; make layers of them in a large stone pot and sprinkle 
each layer with salt; let them stand twenty-four hours and 
then drain off the brine. Put tomatoes, onions, and peppers in 
a preserving kettle, sprinkle on each layer the mustard seed, spice, 
and pepper, and so fill the kettle. The mustard should be thor- 
oughly mixed with the vinegar and thrown into the kettle after 
everything else is in. Stew slowly over a moderate fire for three- 
quarters of an hour. 

MIXED PICKLES. 

Ingredients. — Half a peck of green tomatoes, one cabbage, one 
dozen onions, and other vegetables you may like ; slice them and 
sprinkle with salt; let them stand one night; then wash them 
with cold water and wring dry in a cloth. Put them on to boil, 
covering well with vinegar, in which are mixed two tablespoon- 
fuls of mustard, two ounces of white mustard seed, one ounce 
each of cloves, allspice, celery seed, and turmeric powder, and 
one-half a pound of brown sugar. Boil until tender. 



OHAPTEE XVIII. 



EGGS, OMELETTES, AND CHEESE 
FONDUS. 

FRIED EGGS. 

i^^ F one has an egg fnj-pan^ it is an easy matter to fry eggs. 

)lm Fill the little cups partly full of lard, or the grease from 

ill fried ham or salt pork; drop in the eggs, being careful 
Vf not to break the yolks; turn them if liked that way, and 
slip carefully out. 

If one has only a common spider, it is still no difficult matter 
to fry an e^g properly. Have enough grease in the spider to 
nearly cover the eggs; dip it over the surface and fry carefully. 
Take out without breaking. Do not put more eggs in the spider 
than you can keep separated. It is a good plan to put muffin 
rings in the spider, or saucepan, and drop the eggs in these. 
This keeps them in good shape. If they are ragged when done, 
trim the edges. 

POACHED EGGS. 

Let the water boil before, but not after the eggs are dropped 
in. Salt the water and add a very little vinegar. Drop the eggs 
into muffin rings as above described, and when they are done 
take up on a skimmer, or on a pancake turner. 

It is, of course, easier to poach them in a regular ''''Qgg poacher." 

BEATEN OMELETTE. 

Never use more than three eggs ; beat the whites and yolks 
separately, the whites very stiif,'the yolks but little; add a salt- 
spoonful of salt and half the amount of pepper to the yolks be- 
fore beating; when both are beaten, whisk them delicately to- 
gether; then put a spoonful of butter into a sauce-pan; let both 
butter and saucepan be hot; pour in the egg^ heap it to one side, 

223 



224 EGGS, OMELETTES, AND CHEESE FONDUS. 

and keep it free from the botttom by lifting it occasionally with 
a silver fork, and by shaking the pan ; when brown on the under 
side, turn, then slip off on to a hot platter. One egg treated in 
this way will make an omelet large enough for one person. 

FOLDED, OR EOLLED OMELETTE. 

Break three eggs into a bowl, add a half salt-spoonful of pep- 
per, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Give the egg seven or eight 
beats with the spoon; have ready on the stove a hot saucepan 
with a good lump of butter melted in it; pour in the egg; as it 
sets on the bottom prick with a fork, but do not stir; keep it 
free from the bottom of the saucepan, and when creamy in the 
center, either roll, or fold, serving at once on a hot platter. 

These omelettes may be varied ad infinituin. Chopped parsley, 
mushroom, and onion sprinkled over the folded omelette, just 
before folding, gives an "Omelette aux Fines Ilerhes." 

Chopped ham added in the same way, makes a ham omelette. 
And one may use jelly, or sweetmeats in the place of the herbs 
or ham, and so the omelette may be varied to suit the taste. 

SCALLOPED EGGS 

Ingredients. — Six eggs, five table-spoonfuls of minced ham, a 
little chopped parslej', a very little minced onion, three spoonfuls 
of cream and one spoonful of melted butter, salt and pepper to 
taste, one-half a cup of bread crumbs moistened in milk, and a 
spoonful of melted butter. 

Line the bottom of a small dish, well buttered,, with the soaked 
bread crumbs; put upon these a layer of chopped ham, seasoned 
with the onion and parsley. Set in the oven, closely covered, 
until smoking hot. Beat up the eggs to a stiff froth, season with 
pepper and salt; stir in the cream and a spoonful of melted 
butter; pour evenly upon the layer of ham. Put the 3ish, 
uncovered, back into the oven and bake until the eggs are " set." 

SHIRRED. EGGS. 

Ingredients. — Six eggs, three table-spoons of gravy — from 
poultry is best — enough fried toast to cover the bottom of a flat 
dish, a very little grated cheese, one tea-spoonful of butter. 

Melt the butter in a frying pan; when hot break into this the 
eggs; stir in the gravy, pepper and salt to taste, and continue 



EGGS, OMELETTES, AND CHEESE FONDUS. 225 

to stir very quickly and well up from the bottom, until the whole 
is a soft yellow mass. Have ready in a flat dish the fried toast, 
spread thinly with anchovy paste; sprinkle the grated cheese 
over this ; heap the shirred egg in the center and serve before it 
has time to harden. 

EGG EOLLS. 
(German Receipt.) 
Allow one egg for each person, three-quarters of a pint of milk 
and four tea-spoonfuls of flour for every three eggs. Beat 
whites and yolks separately ; mix the flour smoothly with the 
milk, then add the eggs and whisk well. Try a little at a time 
in a buttered omelet pan. Roll as an omelet; serve very hot; to 
be eaten with sugar or molasses. 

SWISS EGGS. 

Butter well a dish that will stand the heat of the oven, line 
the sides of the dish with shavings of good cheese. Drop on to 
the already buttered dish five or six raw eggs; pour over them 
about three table-spoonfuls of good cream. Season with salt, 
cayenne and a small grate of nutmeg. 

Sprinkle a little grated cheese over all and two table-spoon- 
fuls more cream. Place in the oven for about seven minutes or 
until the eggs are set. 

CURRIED EGGS. 

Cut a couple of onions into slices and fry them to a light 
golden color in plenty of butter; add one table-spoonful of curry 
powder and a sprinkling of flour, moisten with a cupful! of stock 
and simmer gently for ten minutes. Then add six hard boiled 
eggs cut into slices; simmer for a few minutes longer and serve. 

EGGS A LA CR£:ME. 

Boil twelve eggs just hard enough to allow you to cut them 
in slices — cut some crusts of bread very thin, put them in the 
bottom and around the sides of a moderately deep dish, place the 
eggs in, strewing each layer with stale bread grated and some 
pepper and salt. 

Sauce d la crime, for the eggs. — Put a quarter of a pound of 
butter, with a large table-spoonful of flour rubbed well into it 
15 



226 EGaS, OMELETTES; AND CHEESE FOND US. 

in a sauce pan; add some chopped parsley, a little onion, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and a gill of cream; stir it over the fire until it 
begins to boil, then pour it over the eggs, cover the top with 
grated bread, set in the oven and when a light brown send it to 
the table. 

TO KEEP EGGS FRESH. 

(Our Continent.) 
At a recent farmers' convention in Iowa it was decided that 
well-dried oats not less than a year old were the best medium for 
packing; and cold storage, at a temperature ranging from 40° to 
42° was also an essential, though they must be used almost im- 
mediately when taken out of cold storage, as they soon spoil. If 
kept in paper cases they will become musty, as the eggs sweat 
in changes of temperature, the paper becomes damp, and in time 
taints the eggs. In all cases they should be stood upon the small 
end, as in this position they keep fully a month longer. Dry salt 
has been found good for storing small quantities for family use. 
Dipping the eggs in melted tallow, covering them with a brine 
made of one pint of slacked lime, one pint of salt, two ounces of 
cream tartar, and four gallons of water has proved very effec- 
tual; the rule for brine covering two hundred. 

TOMATO OMELET. 

Ingredients. — One-half can of tomatoes, drained and chopped 
fine, five eggs beaten together, one small cup of bread crumbs; 
season to taste. 

Stir in spider until it thickens. Cook with plenty of butter. 

BREAD OMELET. 

Put into a tea-cup of bread crumbs, a tea-cup of sweet cream, 
a spoonful of butter and salt and pepper to taste. When the 
bread has softened break in four eggs, beat all together and fry 
like a plain omelet. 

ANCHOVY OMELETTE. 

Ingredients. — Two eggs, salt, pepper, half tea-spoonful of an- 
chovy essence, four anchovies. 

Season the yolks of the eggs with the salt, pepper and essence. 
Cut the four anchovies into small pieces. Beat the whites of 



EGGS, OMELETTES, AND CHEESE FONDUS. 227 

eggs to a stiff froth, blend gently witli the yolks and put in a 
well-buttered saucepan over the fire. Drop in the pieces of an- 
chovy, and keep the egg well to one side of the saucepan. When 
it is browned on the bottom put in the oven to set. 

CHEESE OJSIELETTE. 

Two whites and three yolks beaten together. Add salt and 
pepper, and one ounce of Parmesan cheese, grated. Beat it thor- 
oughly; add one table-spoonful of sweet cream; put into a well- 
buttered saucepan, stir from the bottom until it begins to 
thicken well, then heap it to one side of the saucepan and keep 
it in good shape until it is brown on the bottom and sufiiciently 
firm. Put more butter in the saucepan if necessary. When 
done turn out on a warm plate, 

CARROT OMELETTE. 

Use rather more of potatoes than carrots. Boil well and run 
them through a sieve; stir well in a good table-spoonful of but- 
ter, one egg, and seasoning. Butter and crumb a pie dish; pour 
the mixture in, thickly crumb the top and spread with bits of 
butter. Bake and turn out. 

CHEESE EONDU— MELTED CHEESE. 

Ingredients. — One cup of bread crumbs, very dry and fine, two 
scant cups of milk, rich and fresh, one-half pound dry old cheese, 
grated, three eggs whipped very light, one small table-spoonful 
of melted butter, season to suit, a pinch of soda, dissolved in hot 
water and stirred into the milk. 

Soak the crumbs in the milk, beat into these the eggs, the 
butter, seasoning, lastly the cheese. Pour the fondii into a but- 
tered dish, strew dry bread crumbs over the top, and bake in a 
rather quick oven until delicately browned. Serve immediately 
in the baking dish, as it soon falls. 

CHEESE SCALLOP. 

(German Receipt.) 
Soak a small tea-cupful of stale bread crumbs in fresh milk. 
Beat into this one large egg, a tea-spoonful of melted butter, and 
three ounces of grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste. Strew 
sifted crumbs on the top, and bake till it is a delicate brown. 



228 EGGS, OMELETTES, AND CHEESE FONDUS. 

COTTAGE CHEESE. 

To be in perfection, cottage cheese must be made from fresh 
clabbered milk. Skim the sour milk, and set a gallon or two of 
it on the back part of the stove in a milk pan, and let it grad- 
ually heat until it is lukewarm all through. Stir it occasionally 
to prevent its hardening at the bottom. When it is a little 
warmer than new milk, and the whey begins to show clear 
around the curd, pour it all in a thin, coarse bag, tie it close, and 
let it hang up to strain two or three hours in a cool place; then 
take from the bag and keep the contents in a covered dish. 
When preparing for a meal, mix with the curd rich, sweet cream, 
sugar and nutmeg. It is even better to add a little fresh butter 
and salt, then those preferring sugar can use it in addition, and 
those who like it without the sugar can also be suited. 



CHAPTER XrX. 



FRUITS AND JELLIES. 

PEEPARING FRUITS FOR CANm^G. 

OIL cherries moderately, five minutes; raspberries moder- 
M ately, six minutes; blackberries moderately, six minutes; 
jj^ plums moderately, ten minutes; strawberries moderately, 
eight minutes; whortleberries five minutes; pie plant, 
sliced, tin minutes; small sour pears, tvhole, thirty minutes; Bart- 
lett pears, in halves, twenty minutes; peaches, in halves, eight 
minutes; peaches, whole, fifteen minutes; pine-apple, sliced, half 
an inch thick, fifteen minutes; Siberian or crab-apple, whole, 
twenty-five minutes; sour apples quartered, ten minutes; ripe 
currants, six minutes; wild grapes, ten minutes; tomatoes, twenty 
minutes. 

The amount of sugar to a quart should be: for cherries, six 
ounces ; raspberries, four ounces; Lawton blackberries, six ounces; 
field blackberries, eight ounces; whortleberries, four ounces; 
quince, ten ounces; small sour pears, whole, eight ounces; wild 
grapes, eight ounces; peaches, four ounces; Bartlett pears, six 
ounces; pine-apples, six ounces; Siberian or crab-apples, eight 
ounces; plums, eight ounces; pie plant, ten ounces; sour apples, 
quartered, six ounces; ripe currants, eight ounces. 

CURUAKT JELLY. 
(Home Messenger Cook Book.) 
This receipt is the only one which we will ivarrant to make 
good jelly against odds. We have made jelly by it on the fifth 
of July, and on the fifteenth, and each time it was a perfect suc- 
cess. While we recommend all persons to make their jelly from 
fresh fruit early in the season, we can still assure those who are 

229 



230 FRUITS AND JELLIES. 

behindhand that they need not despair of jelly that will set firm 
and hard later in the season. 

Run the currants through your hand, picking out the leaves 
and any stray thing that may adhere to them, but leaving the 
currants on their stems. Weigh the fruit, being accurate in 
remembering the number of pounds. Put a pint of water into 
the preserving kettle, and add a bowl or two of currants, mash- 
ing and pressing them until you have suflS-cient juice to cover 
the bottom of the kettle; then add the remainder of the currants; 
let them come to a boil, and boil at least twenty minutes, of 
course stirring and pressing them from time to time, that they 
may not burn. Have a three-cornered bag of thin, but strong, 
unbleached cotton, that has been well scalded and wrung till al- 
most dry; hang it up and pour the boiled currants into it. Let 
it drip into a stone crock all night, but by no means squeeze it; 
the currants will drain perfectly dry. In the morning, pour 
the strained juice into a preserving kettle without measuring; 
let it come to a boil and boil throughly for three or four min- 
utes, then pour in half as many pounds of sugar as 3^ou had 
pounds of currants. For instance, a peck of currants will prob- 
ably weigh twelve pounds, therefore, use six pounds of sugar. 
The moment the sugar is entirely dissolved the jelly is done. To 
make sure that the sugar is entirely dissolved, see that it begins 
to jelly on the ladle. It will look thick, and drop thick and a 
little stringy, but if let heat beyond this point it will lose its 
thickness, and not jelly nearly so well, and always disappoints 
you if you lose faith in your instructions and insist upon "let- 
ting it come to a boil," All the boiling is done before the sugar 
is added. 

RHUBARB JELLY 

Peel and cut up quite small some fresh rhubarb, put it into a 
preserving pan with a very little water, and the thin rind of 
half a lemon to every pound of fruit. Boil until reduced to a 
pulp. Strain the juice, weigh it, and allow one pound of pounded 
sugar to every pound of juice. Boil up the juice, add the sugar, 
boil, skim, and when it jellies on the skimmer pour into pots, 
and tie down when cold. 



FRUITS AND JELLIES. 231 

CLARET JELLY. 

One bottle of claret. Put the rind of one lemon, one tea-cup- 
ful of red currant jelly, half tea-cupful of brandy, seven ounces 
of lump sugar, one ounce (or two and one-fourth ounces if liked 
rather stiff), of isinglass; boil five minutes and strain. Serve 
with whipped cream. 

LEMON" JELLY. 

Wet quite one-half package of Cox's gelatine. Soak in cold 
water half an hour. Add the juice of one lemon, one cup of 
sugar, one pint of boiling water. When the gelatine is all dis- 
solved, strain through a cloth into molds or cups and set in a 
cold place. 

APPLE JELLY. 

Boil sour apples until tender in as little water as possible with- 
out burning. Strain through a flannel bag. To every pint of 
juice use one pound of granulated sugar. Boil the juice seven 
minutes, then add the sugar and boil three minutes longer. Put 
in tumblers and seal up when cold. 

ICELAITD MOSS JELLY. 

Soak for an hour four table-spoonfuls of the moss in cold water 
enough to cover it; then stir into it a quart of boiling water and 
simmer gently until it dissolves; strain, sweeten to taste, flavor 
with the juice of two lemons and a glass of wine; strain into 
molds and cool. 

CALF'S FOOT JELLY, WITH WINE. 

(Francatelli.) 
Split two calf's feet, break up the bones, and put the whole 
into a gallon sized stew-pan, or stock-pot, then add two quarts 
of cold water and set it on the fire to boil; remove the scum as 
it rises to the surface, and when the stock has been thoroughly 
skimmed set it on the back part of the stove, to continue gently 
boiling for about five hours. The stock must then be strained 
off through a sieve into a basin or pan and set aside in a cool 
place until it has become firm. The grease should be scraped off 
the surface with a spoon, and a little boiliug water thrown over 



232 FRUITS AND JELLIES. 

it in order to wash away any that may remain. It should then 
be wiped with a clean cloth and put in a stew-pan to melt over 
the fire. Next add one pound of loaf sugar, half a pint of sherry, 
one glass of brandy, six cloves, a half a stick of cinnamon, the 
rind of two lemons peeled very thin and without any of the 
pith as this is bitter; then pour in the whites of three eggs and 
one whole egg whipped up with a little cold water and the 
bruised shells; whip this well together over the fire, and when 
it is nearly boiling throw in the juice of four lemons, stir the 
jelly with the whisk for a minute or so, and then set the stew- 
pan down by the side of the fire, put on the lid with some live 
embers upon it and allow the jelly to stand by the side of the 
stove fire for a quarter of an hour longer, to set the eggs; next 
throw the jelly into a jelly-bag, fixed on a stand, ready with a 
basin placed under to receive the jelly as it passes through the 
bag; continue pouring the jelly back again through the bag 
until it runs quite bright and clear; then cover over the stand 
with a cloth and leave the jelly to run until the whole is passed. 
This kind of jelly may either be served in glasses or set in 
molds imbedded in ice; when it has become quite firm, dip the 
mold in hot water, wipe it and turn the jelly out carefully on its 
dish. 

CLARIFICATI02T OF CALF'S FOOT JELLY, FOR GEI^^ERAL 

PURPOSES. 

Put the prepared stock of two calf's feet into a stew-pan with 
a pound of sugar, the rind of two lemons and the juice of four; 
whip three whites and one whole egg together, with a quarter 
of a pint of spring water, throw this in with the stock, and 
whisk the whole together over the fire until it is on the point of 
boiling, then add the juice of half a lemon and a little spring 
water; withdraw the jelly from the stove and set it down by the 
side, to continue gently simmering for about ten minutes longer, 
covered with the stew-pan lid containing some live embers of 
charcoal. The jellj'- may then be passed through the bag in the 
usual way, and when it has run through perfectly bright, let it 
be kept in a cool place to be used as occasion may require. 

This kind of foundation or stock jelly, prepared without any 
decided flavor, may be used for making all kinds of jellies, it will 



FRUITS AND JELLIES. 233 

then be only necessary to add, to the quantity required to fill a 
mold, a gill and a half of any kind of liqueur, and if the jelly be 
too stiff, a little thin syrup may also be added. It may be used 
likewise to make fruit jellies, with the addition of a pint of the 
filtered juice of currants, raspberries, cherries, or strawberries, or 
half a pint of the clarified infusion syrup of peaches, apricots, or 
pine-apples. 

PRESERYED CUCUMBERS. 

(German way.) 

Pick and cut in long slices fifteen cucumbers, sprinkle them 
with a handful of salt and let stand over night, then take them 
out and dry them on a napkin. 

Put two quarts of vinegar on the fire and boil the cucumbers 
in it till tender. Let them stand over night in this vinegar, then 
take out and dry, and put in a jar with alternate layers of herbs 
and button onions, the upper layer being herbs; the herbs used 
are terragon and mint. Then boil one quart of wine vinegar 
with half a pound of loaf sugar, skim it and when cold pour over 
the cucumber and tie up the jar well. 

PRESERVED PLUMS. 

(German tvay.) 
The plums are washed and dried, then put into a jar, and for 
one peck boil three-fourths of a quart of wine vinegar with one 
pound of sugar, skim it well and pour over the plums when cold. 
After one or two days strain off the vinegar and boil it up again 
and pour over the plums when cold. Repeat this operation 
three times, at intervals of one or two days. The last time boil 
some cloves and cinnamon with the vinegar; prick the plums 
with a fork in several places before the vinegar is poured over 
them to keep them from shriveling. 

PRESERYED CRANBERRIES. 
(German way.) 
The cranberries are picked over, washed and dried on a colan- 
der; then they are boiled in their own juice. To one peck, one 
and one-fourth pounds of sugar are added, boil down and skim well. 
Then put them in a jar, mixing with them ground allspice, cloves 
and cinnamon. 



284 FRUITS AND JELLIES. 

PRESERVED MELOI^'S. 

(German tvay.) 
The melons are pared, sliced, and put on a dish in layers with 
sugar, the upper layer being of sugar. Then, for a large musk- 
tnelou, boil one gill of vinegar with three pounds of sugar, skim 
it well. In this the slices of melon are put and boiled till tender, 
carefully skimming. Repeat this operation at intervals of one 
or two days, until the juice becomes thick. 

SPICED CURRAl^TS. 

Ingredients. — Five pounds of currants, four pounds of sugar, 
one pint of vinegar, four tea-spoonfuls each of cinnamon and 
cloves. 

Boil three hours; no pepper or salt; delightful with venison 
or mutton. 

MACEDOINE OF FRUITS. 

Stew carefully some pears, apples, plums, cherries and apri- 
cots, or any variety of fruit that may be convenient, and cut up 
into pieces. Prepare a gelatine jelly, flavored with half a tum- 
bler full of champaigne (or any wine which is convenient, good 
currant or sherry). Fill a mold with alternate layers of jelly and 
fruit and serve after freezing. If the fruit is very ripe it is bet- 
ter not to cook it. Indeed, no soft fruit, strawberries, etc., re- 
quires cooking for macedoine. The jelly may if preferred be 
flavored with lemon instead of wine. 

APPLE MARMALADE. 

Wipe the apples well, but do not peel them, core and quarter 
them and cut in thin slices. If the apples are very small ones, 
there will be an excess of skin in the marmalade ; to counteract 
this and provide liiore pulp, a few large apples must be peeled 
and added to the rest. Have ready some syrup, made in the pro- 
portion of three pounds of sugar to a pint of water, and boil 
quickly for five minutes; moist sugar will do if a brown marma- 
lade is not objected to, but loaf sugar makes it transparent and 
finer flavored. Into this boiling syrup throw the sliced apple, 
and boil rather rapidly for one hour, reckoning from the time of 
its first boiling up, stirring frequently. It should then be clear, 



FRUITS AND JELLIES. 235 

jellified and rather stiff. The rapid boiling drives off the watery- 
particles in steam, and on this depends much of the success in 
keeping the marmalade from fomentation. Allow three pounds 
of sugar to four pounds of apples. Some people like cloves, cin- 
namon or lemon peel added as flavoring; but in this marmalade 
the natural flavor of the apples is so nicely preserved that it is 
almost a pity to spoil it. 

PEACH MAEMALADE. 

To make peach marmalade, pare, stone and weigh the fruit, 
heat slowly to draw out the juice, stirring up often with a wooden 
spoon. After it is hot, boil quickly, still stirring, three-fourths 
of an hour; add then the sugar, allowing three-fourths of a 
pound to each pound of fruit. Boil up well for five minutes, 
taking off every particle of skum; add the juice of one lemon to 
every three pounds of fruit, and the water in which one-fourth 
of the peach kernels have been boiled and steeped. Stew all to- 
gether for ten minutes more, stirring to a smooth paste. Put it 
up hot in air tight cans, or if you prefer to, put it in glass jars, 
put it in them when nearly cold and put white paper on the top 
of each jar. 

APPLE GINGEE. 

Seven pounds of apples, pared and cored; seven pounds of 
pounded loaf sugar, two ounces of ground ginger, the juice of 
three lemons, one pint of water. Boil slowly rather more than 
half an hour. Put in molds and cover. 

STEWED APPLES FOE CHILDEEN". 

Peel and core as many apples as are required, take the peel and 
cores and put them in a baking dish, with as much water as is 
required to stew the apples in afterward, add two cloves and a 
table-spoonful of raw sugar; let them stew until tender, then 
pour the juice through a sieve upon the apples that are peeled 
and quartered, and put them ju the oven and stew until tender^ 
Do the same with the peels and cores when making pies or pud- 
dijigs with apples. 



236 FRUITS AND JELLIES. 

TO BAKE APPLES FOR CHILDREN. 

Core, but do not peel them; into the hole that is made with 
the corer put plenty of sugar. Take a baking tin and strew it 
well with sugar, then pour a little water on it; then put the ap- 
ples on the tin and bake them till thoroughly done. A delicious 
jelly will be thrown out, and if the sight of the tin is disliked, 
it must all be scraped up and served on the dish with the apples. 

ICED APPLES. 
Pare and core one dozen large apples, fill with sugar, very lit- 
tle butter and nutmeg or cinnamon; bake till just done. Let 
them cool and remove without breaking to another dish; have 
some icing prepared, lay on top and sides and return to the oven 
to brown slightly. Serve with cream. 



CHAPTER XX. 




BEVERAGES. 

TEA MAKING. 

JE the quantity of tea you think sufficient very loosely 
in a thin muslin bag, or inclose it in one of the little 
wire balls that are made for this purpose. Put it into 
an urn or silver kettle with a spirit lamp beneath; pour 
boiling water over it, and when it has stood a few moments take 
out the tea and light the lamp. Tea is none the worse for boil- 
ing or being kept hot, if the tea leaves have been removed. 

The principle in good tea-making is to keep the infusion as 
free from tannin as possible, therefore it should not be allowed 
to draw for longer than three minutes at the most. A perfect 
cup of tea should be a delicate brown, with a golden tinge chang- 
ing to a light yellow when the cream is added. 

This is the English method. My way is to allow one tea-spoon- 
ful of tea to every person; enclose the tea in the tea ball, pour over 
it water that has just come to the boil and let it steep five minutes. 
Steep it always in an earthernware steeper. Let both steeper and 
tea be hot when the water is poured on. After the tea has steeped 
sufficiently, remove the tea ball, and serve, if possible, in the 
same pot in which it was steeped. 

COFFEE. 

Buy coffee by the quantity and always brown and grind it 
yourself. Use one-third Mocha and two-thirds Old Government 
Java. Brown evenly and thoroughly and only a little at a time, 
and keep it in a tightly covered can or bottle. Allow one table- 
spoonful of coffee for a person, if liked only medium strong. 
Beat an egg, shell and all, with the ground coffee, add enough 

237 



238 BEVEEAGES. 

cold water to cover it, and let it stand an hour or so; it may be 
prepared in this way, for breakfast, the night before, if only it 
is kept closely covered. Half an hour before it is needed, pour 
boiling water over it, all that will be needed, stir it thoroughly, 
cover it tight, and cover the spout also, and put on the stove 
where it will keep boiling hot, but not actually boil. Serve in 
the same cq fee-pot in which it is made. See that the spout is 
free from setlings. 

Coffee is sometimes made in this way, and called, 

GOLDEX corrEE. 

For two persons take two table-spoonfuls of ground coffee, tie 
up in a piece of Swiss muslin, leaving room for expansion, pour 
on one pint of boiling water, cover close and set on the back of 
the stove for twenty minutes. Beat one egg with a Dover egg- 
beater thoroughly, divide it into two coffee-cups, and add the 
usual quantity of sugar for each. Hold the coffee-pot high up, 
pour the boiling coffee on the egg, and add warm milk, and with 
the golden foam standing above the rim of the cup you will have 
a pretty picture to look at, and a delicious drink to partake of. 

CHERRY SYRUP. 

Pick the stems off some cherries, not too ripe, crush and leave 
them twenty-four hours; pass through a hair sieve first, thor- 
oughly pressing the crushed fruit, then through a filter. To 
eighteen ounces of the liquid add two pounds of loaf sugar, in a 
copper preserving pan; just allow it to boil, clearing away any 
scum as it rises; when cool, pour into bottles, pint size being best. 

RHUBARB WINE. 

Cut in small pieces as you would for pies one peck of rhubarb; 
pour three quarts of boiling water on it and let it stand one 
week, stirring and mashing it every day; squeeze through a 
coarse cloth and add three pounds of good brown sugar to one 
gallon of juice; let stand in a jug loosely corked until October, 
then rack off and bottle tight. 

Blackberr}^, currant, cherry-, and other berries may be made 
into wine the same way, except that the proportion of water is, 
one gallon of boiling water to one gallon of fruit. 



BEVERAGES. 239 

RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 

To one gallon of red raspberry juice, add one quart of good 
cider vinegar, four pounds of white sugar; mix well and let it 
stand twelve hours, strain, put on the stove and let it boil up, 
then bottle and seal while hot. It will keep for years and it 
makes a delicious cooling drink for sick or well in hot weather. 

RASPBERRY ACID. 

Dissolve five ounces of tartaric acid in one quart of cold water, 
pour it on twelve pounds of fruit in a large jar, let it stand 
twenty-four hours, strain it from the fruit without pressing, and 
to every pint of juice put one and one-fourth pounds of pounded 
loaf sugar; stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar is all dis- 
solved. Let it stand a day or two, then take ofi* the scum and 
bottle. 

GOOSEBERRY SYRUP. 

Four pounds of gooseberries, not too ripe, one pound of ripe 
cherries, and one-half pound of red raspberries; crush all to- 
gether and then leave them to ferment in an earthen jar for 
twenty-four hours. After this, if the juice looks fairly clear, put 
the fruit in a large clean hair sieve and press the juice through 
with the hands. W eigh the liquid thus passed, and to one and 
one-fourth pounds of liquid add two pounds of white sugar; melt 
over a clear fire, and after boiling up four separate and distinct 
times, take it off the stove, skim, and pour gently in a large 
earthen vessel. When quite cold, pour it off into pint bottles, 
well cork them, 'and keep in a cool place. 

BARLEY WATER. 

Add two ounces of pearl barley to half a pint of boiling water; 
let it simmer five minutes, drain, and add two quarts of boiling 
water; add two ounces of sliced figs and two ounces of stoned 
raisins; boil until reduced to a quart; strain for drink. This is 
very nutritious for an invalid. 

JELLICE. 

One-half a tea-spoonful of currant, lemon, or cranberry jelly 
put into a goblet; beat well with two table-spoonfuls of water; 



240 BEVERAGES. 

fill up with ice water, and you have a refreshing drink for a fever 
patient. 

ROOT BEER. 

Take one pound of yellow dock roots, one pound of burdock, 
one pound of sarsaparilla, one pound of hops, a quarter of a pound 
of spruce twigs, all boiled together in three gallons of water. 
Strain off the liquor, add six gallons more of water, one gallon 
of molasses, and one pint of good yeast; fill the cask full that 
it is put in and leave out the bung for the skum to overfiow. 
When the fermentation ceases, stop it up tight and you will have 
a healthy, blood cleansing and refreshing beverage that will 
strengthen and invigorate the system. Add ice in the summer. 

GINGER BEER. 

Take one table-spoonful of ginger, one of cream tartar, one 
pint of yeast, one pint of molasses, and six quarts of water. Stir 
well* together and set in a warm place. When it begins to fer- 
ment bottle it up and in eight hours it will be good to use and 
will keep good several days. 

RASPBERRY WINE. 

To every quart of ripe fruit put one quart of soft water. Mash 
them and let them stand two days, then strain, and to every gal- 
lon put three pounds of sugar. In tAvo months bottle it and to 
each bottle add a wine-glass of brandy. 

ORANGE AND LEMON SYRUP. 

Put one pint of cold sugar syrup in an earthen jar with the 
rind of six oranges and three lemons, or vice versa; cover the 
jar, and let the cojitents infuse for twenty-four hours. Press the 
juice from the oranges and lemons into a quart of water, pass the 
whole through a tammy, a silk one, if possible. Put three 
pounds of cut loaf sugar and the juice as above into a preserving 
pan on a clear bright fire; let the whole melt and heat until it 
arrives at a heat corresponding to thirty-two degrees of a saccha- 
rometer. Pour into an earthen jar and let it cool. Then bottle 
for use. 



BEVERAGES. 241 

SWISS BLACKBERRY WINE. 
(Said to he excellent and medicinal.) 
To one bushel of berries put two gallons of water and express 
the juice. To each gallon of the liquid add one pound of refined 
white sugar; put in a cask a peck of freshly burned charcoal 
broken up in small pieces; then pour the ]iquid upon it. Let if 
ferment; when done, close the cask tight. Let it remain til] 
January, then draw off and bottle. 

BLACKBERRY WINE. 

To every gallon of crushed berries add one quart of boiling 
water; let it stand twenty-four hours, then squeeze through a 
jelly bag. To every gallon of juice add two pounds of good 
brown sugar, the whites of two eggs well beaten and stirred in 
the juice. Pound some cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg together, 
tie them in a muslin bag and drop them into the juice. Put the 
mixture in a jug or cask till done working, then cork close and 
in four months bottle. It will improve with age. 
i6 



CHAPTER XXI. 




MISCELLANEOUS. 

BEEF TEA. 
(By Dr. Chambers.) 

, AKE the cook understand that the virtue of beef tea is 
to contain all the contents and flavors of lean beef in 
a liquid form; and that its vices are to be sticky and 
strong, and to set in a hard jelly when cold. When she 
understands this, let her take half a pound of fresh killed beef 
for every pint of beef tea required, and remove all fat, sinew, 
veins and bone. Let it be cut up into pieces under half an inch 
square, and soak for twelve hours in half a pint of cold water. 
Let it then be taken out and simmered for two hours in one pint 
of water, the quantity lost by evaporation being replaced from 
time to time. The boiling liquor is then to be placed on the cold 
liquor, in which the meat was soaked. The solid meat is to be 
dried, pounded in a mortar, freed from all stringy parts, and 
mixed with the rest. 

When the beef tea is made daily, it is convenient to use one 
day's boiled meat for the next day's tea, as thus it has time to 
dry and is easier pounded. 

A wholesome flavoring for beef tea is fresh tomato. A piece 
of green celery stalk, or a small onion, and a few cloves, may 
also be boiled in it. 

Beef tea and broth should not be kept hot, but heated up as 
required. 

BEEF TEA. 

Cut a pound of the round steak into small pieces; pour over it 
a cup of cold water and let it stand one hour; pour them into a 

243 



244 MISCELLANEOUS. 

glass fruit jar, screw on the cover, put over the stove in cold 
water and bring nearly to a boil. Strain the liquor off, after it 
has remained at nearly the boiling point for an hour or so, season 
with salt, and it is ready to use. 

- TOMATO BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — Nine pounds of tomatoes, three pounds of brown 
sugar, one pint of good vinegar, three table-spoonfuls of cinna- 
mon, one table-spoonful of cloves. 

Cook well. Boil three hours. 

CANNING SWEET CORN. 

Cut the corn raw from the cobs; to every six quarts of corn 
allow one ounce tartaric acid dissolved in water; put the corn, 
with sufficient water to keep it from burning, over the stove; 
when it boils add the tartaric acid; when the corn is parboiled 
can as you can tomatoes, using, however, glass jars instead of 
tin. When the corn is opened for use, turn it into a colander 
and pour cold water over it until the sour taste is removed. Add 
a small lump of soda when cooking. 

PASTE FOR CLEANING BRASS. 

Quarter of a jjound of soft soap, one ounce of spirits of wine, 
four ounces of well ground rotten stone, one tea-spoonful of 
sweet oil. Mix and keep in a jar. This has been in use fifty 
years. 

TO CLARIFY DRIPPING. 

Take the dripping hot from the fire and pour it into a basin 
with half a pint of boiling water, stir well, and let it stand until 
cold. The impurities will settle *in the water and at the bottom 
of the cake of fat; this can be scraped off with a knife, when the 
dripping will be quite pure. 

TO PRESERVE MEAT OR FISH FRESH. 

Cover with a solution of borax and water — one-fourth of a 
pound of borax to one gallon of water. Add a little salt if you 
choose. Dissolve the borax in a little hot water, and then add 
the rest of the water cold. Cool the whole, and it is ready 
to use. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 245 



RECEIPT FOR BRONCHITIS. 

Ingredients. — One pound of baking pears, half a pound of raw 
sugar, one pint of vinegar. Simmer all together four or five 
hours and bottle. 

TO DETECT ADULTERATION IN MUSTARD. 

Drop a few drops of ammonia on it. If red pepper is present 
it will turn red ; if not it will remain a greenish yellow. 

POMADE. 

Ingredients. — Two ounces of white wax, six ounces of castor 
oil, two ounces of lard, one ounce of oil of sweet almonds, one- 
half ounce of citronella. 

Melt and mix together, and beat to a light froth. 

JAPANESE CREAM. 

{Very good for cleaning men's clothing and dark dresses.) 
Ingredients. — Four ounces each of white castile soap and am- 
monia, two ounces each of alcohol and ether, and one ounce of 
glycerine. 

Cut the soap thin; dissolve it in one quart of soft water over 
the fire; when dissolved add four quarts more of cold soft water, 
then add the spirits. 

TABLE OF DOMESTIC MEASURES OF FLUIDS. 
{For medicinal or other purposes.) 

Sixty drops, one tea-spoonful or drachm; two tea-spoonfuls, 
one dessert-spoonful; two dessert-spoonfuls, one table-spoonful, 
or half an ounce; four table-spoonfuls, one wine-glassful; two 
wine-glassfuls, one tea-cupful, or one gill. 

CANDY. 

Ingredients. — One pound of white sugar, two table-spoonfuls 
of vinegar, one tea-spoonful of cream tartar, one tea-spoonful of 
butter, one tea-cup of cold water, flavor to suit the taste. 

Do not stir until it is done. Fresh lemon may be used in the 
place of cream tartar. 



246 MISCELLANEOUS. 

CARAMELS. 

Ingredients. — Two cups of sugar, oue cup of molasses, one- 
half pound of French chocolate, one cup of rich cream, butter 
the size of a hickory-nut, vanilla. 

SUPERIOR CANDY. 

Ingredients. — One pound of white sugar, two-thirds of a com- 
mon tumbler of water, one table-spoonful of good sharp vinegar 
or lemon juice, a piece of butter the size of a walnut. 

Let it dissolve and slowly boil, but do not stir it any. Try it 
by dipping a little out occasionally from one side until it stiffens 
in water, then pour out and cut in small pieces. 

LEMON TOAST. 

Beat the yolks of three eggs and mix them with half a pint of 
milk. Dip slices of bread into the mixture, then fry them to a 
delicate brown in butter. Take the whites of two eggs, beat 
them to a froth, add to them three ounces white sugar and the 
juice of a small lemon. Stir in a small tea-cup of boiling water 
and serve as a sauce on the toast. 

APRICOT TOAST. 

Take some ripe, but not over-ripe, apricots, halve and stone 
them. Make a syrup with plenty of white sugar and some 
water; when boiled for a couple of hours strain; lay the pieces 
of apricot in the syrup and add a glass of white wine ; simmer 
for a few minutes. Cut out of the crumb of a milk loaf some 
rounds a little larger than the apricots. Fry them a pale yellow 
in fresh butter, drain and arrange them in a circle on a dish with 
a piece of apricot on each round, concave side uppermost; put a 
kernel in the center of each, pour the syrup well over, and serve 
with some whipped cream in the center of the dish. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



FOOD. 



BY DR. D. S. FAIRCHILD, 

Professor of Pathology, Histology, etc., Iowa State College of Agriculture and 
Mechanic Arts, Ames, Iowa. 




FOOD. 

|NE of the weightiest influences which determine the life of 
the individual is the nature of the food he eats. The value 
of this influence can be plainly traced all along the line of 
man's advancement from a condition of barbarism up to 
the highest point of his present civilization; the strength of his 
muscles, the course of his thoughts and his whole menial tone are 
determined by the nature of his food. The sum of the factors 
which influence the welfare of the individual must in like manner 
influence the welfare of the nation. Accepting the fact that an 
abundance of nutritious food is necessary to the development 
of the physical and mental energies of the individual, and that 
the present welfare and future progress of the nation is depend- 
ent upon the physical and mental qualities of its individual 
members, it is clearly apparent that the first importance should 
be attached to the quantity and quality, as well as the preparation 
of the foods which make up our diet. 

The economy of nature as illustrated in the development of 
our digestive organs is directed as far as possible to the reduction 
of the quantity of the material ingested to the narrowest limits 
consistant with the character of our diet which is, or should be, 
selected from every kingdom of nature. Appreciating this fact 
civilized communities adopt various methods of improving the 

247 



248 FOOD. 

quality of grains and vegetables, selecting such varieties as con- 
tain the largest amount of nutritive matter and the least amount 
of fibrinous or innutritions material, and they also select such 
breeds of animals for food purposes as contain the largest amount 
of nutritive juices and fat, in the finest and most delicate fibrous 
framework. Civilized communities, furthermore, find it greatly 
to their advantage to employ the best methods of preparing their 
food, consulting both the stomach and the palate in such a 
manner that the food shall become palatable and at the same 
time digestible. The increasing difficulty of obtaining good 
food imperatively demands that the best methods be employed 
in utilizing all the nutritive principles therein contained in the 
most economical manner. These considerations have already 
been recognized in the establishment of schools of cookery in 
various countries. 

It is a fact well known to physiologists that a normal or 
healthy diet cannot be made up of any one kind or class of foods, 
but must, on the contrary, contain substances derived from all 
classes. Therefore the notion Avhich some people have of con- 
fining their diet to some particular kind of food is a false one, 
and usually, sooner or later, leads to imperfect nutrition, attended 
by a train of difficulties resulting from a loss of balance between 
waste and repair in the different tissues, and a consequent im- 
pairment of the physical and mental strength and endurance. 

The foods which science and experience have taught us to be 
necessary for the perfect nourishment of the human body, are 
divided into two groups, one of which contains nitrogen and the 
other does not. The first, or nitrogenous group, as albumen, 
casein, gluten and gelatin, is used in the sys'tem in building up 
muscular and other tissue, and for the repair of waste or injury 
sustained by them. The second, or non-nitrogenous group, as 
starch and sugar, oils and fats, are employed largely in the pro- 
duction of animal heat. To these must be added the inorganic 
substances, as chloride of sodium (common salt), phosphate of 
calcium, etc. Now as these substances have their specific offices 
to perform in the physical economy, and as one cannot perform 
the office of another with any degree of success, it becomes ap- 
parent that they must be mixed in varying proportions to form 
a normal diet, for while albumen and gluten can supply the tis- 



FOOD. 249 

sues with nutritive material, they cannot generate animal heat, 
and the animal would sooner or later die. On the other hand, 
while oils and fats, starch and sugar, can produce animal heat 
and cause fat to be stored up in the system, they cannot supply 
the needs of the muscles and other tissues. The truth of these 
observations is established by experiments made in feeding, and 
furthermore by the fact that foods which form the exclusive 
diet at certain periods of life contain all of these elements in ad- 
mixture, as milk and eggs. 

The value of certain foods may depend quite as much on their 
digestibility as on the relative qualities of the necessary elements 
which they contain. Moreover, the quantity and kind of food 
to be taken with the greatest economy and advantage cannot be 
settled for each individual, except by a consideration of the ex- 
act quantities of certain elements that are required. Much will 
depend upon the habits and digestive powers of the individual. 
Food, which to one person is appropriate, may be quite unfit for 
another, and the changes of diet so instinctively practiced by all 
to whom they are possible, further indicate that the varying ne- 
cessities of the body are determined by the conditions of waste 
and repair. 

The adult human being does not find in any one kind of food 
all of the material the body requires, otherwise, one might suf- 
fice for all his wants. It is by a combination of foods that the 
requirements are met, each substance contributing to one or 
more of the wants of the system. Some foods are more valuable 
than others in that they supply a greater number of the sub- 
stances which the body requires. Animal food, as flesh or mus- 
cular tissue contains the elements which onr system needs as 
flesh-formers, and also as heat-generators, and life may be main- 
tained for very long periods if it be eaten in large quantities. 
Since the source of flesh in animals used as food is found in veg- 
etables, it follows that vegetables should have the same elements 
as flesh, and it is a fact of great interest that in vegetables we 
have foods closely analagous to the flesh of animals, hence our 
appetites and the demands of our system cause us to extend our 
choice to both the animal and vegetable kingdoms. 



250 FOOD. 

ANIMAL FOODS. 

These may be divided into flesh, fish, and fowl, and their pro- 
ducts, milk and eggs. Flesh may be divided into lean and fat, 
the former contains nitrogen and the latter does not. While all 
kinds of flesh contains nutritive qualities in common, the pro- 
portion in which these qualities exists varies. The lean meats 
are made up mainly of networks of fibres containing a greater 
or less amount of fat. The fibrous tissue gives rise to the tough- 
ness which varies with the age and breeding of the animal; in 
old animals the fibres are dense and firmer, in young animals 
more juicy and tender. The aim of modern breeding is to produce 
the greatest amount of muscle and fat at the earliest period of 
life, but while delicacy of flavor may thus be obtained, fullness 
and richness can be {produced by age only. Good meat should 
contain a certain amount of fat mixed with the lean, the rela- 
tive proportions of which vary both with the animal and the 
condition in which it is killed. The nutritive value of the "fat 
and lean respectively is much the same in all animals used as 
food, so that the same weight of lean meat from one animal 
should nourish the body as well as the same weight from an- 
other. As, however, the influence of appetite and relish plays 
an important part in the phenomena of nutrition, reference 
should be had to the taste in selecting the particular kind of 
meat, as this fact will exercise an important influence in diges- 
tion and assimilation. All thiugs being considered, beef is the 
most nutritious and the most easily digested. 

The eflect of cooking flesh is chiefly physical, rendering the 
meat more easy of mastication and digestion, but the object may 
be frustrated if the substance of the flesh be hardened in any ap- 
preciable degree. Cooking is also employed to make the food 
hot when it is eaten, with a view to improve its flavor and to 
stimulate the sense of taste. The efiect of roasting or boiling 
meat is to decrease its bulk. This loss in bulk and weight 
is due to the extraction of the juices of so much of the mass 
of flesh as may be acted on by the heat. These are chiefly 
water containing salts and the peculiar flavor of meat, with a 
proportion of fat in a fluid state, gelatine, and perhaps some al- 
bumen. If these matters are collected there will be no real loss 



FOOD. 251 

of nutriment. The difference between roasting and boiling lies 
chiefly in the fact that in roasting the outside is exposed to the 
hot air and becomes overcooked before the inside is sufSciently 
cooked. This occurs to a far greater extent in roasting than in 
boiling. Stewed meat occupies a position between that of 
boiled and roast. The degree in which extraction of juices takes 
place in cooking meat depends upon the method of applying 
heat and becomes a fundamental question in cookery. 

Various methods have been employed for the purpose of pre- 
serving meat, the chief of which is salting. Salted meat is much 
less valuable for food than fresh. The salt extracts a consider- 
able quantity of the juices and so mucli lessens the nutritive 
value and natural flavor of the meat. The flesh is also harder, 
this depending of course considerably on the strength of the 
saline solution. The introduction of so much salt into the sys- 
tem is prejudicial to health, by inducing a craving for fluids, and 
by causing indigestion or skin diseases. The capability to nour- 
ish the system is lessened by the various effects mentioned. 

VEAL. 

Veal, while it is sometimes a delicacy when properly killed, is 
not so valuable as a food as beef, and it is more difiicult of di- 
gestion, being about equal to pork. 

MUTTON. 

Mutton is much more valuable than veal as a food, and is more 
easily digested, but not equal to beef. It is better suited to those 
who follow sedentary habits than to those who are engaged in 
much physical labor. Mutton broth has less nutritive value 
than beef broth, but having a more delicate flavor is preferred by 
many persons. 

POKK. 

Pork, having so very large a proportion of fat cannot be re- 
garded as equal to beef or mutton in nourishing the system of 
those who make much muscular exertion. It is also digested 
with greater diflSculty. 

The frequent presence of parasites in pork is an objection to 
its use as a food, but the danger from these may be obviated by 
thoroughly cooking the meat. 



252 FOOD. 

LEBIG'S EXTEACT OF MEAT AND BEEP TEA. 

In preparing these extracts the insoluble and most nutritious 
parts are left behind. They yield an agreeable flavor and are 
a valuable addition to other foods. They give a degree of exhil- 
aration which may be useful to the feeble, but a great mistake 
is made if they are relied upon as a principal diet for the sick. 
While these substances are not nutritious in themselves, they 
modify assimilation and nutrition in a useful manner. 

EGGS. 

Eggs, from the large amount of nutritious matter contained in 
them, furnish an important article of food. The length of time 
required to digest them is about the same as for mutton. The man- 
ner of cooking eggs exercises an important influence upon their 
digestibility. When boiled to the extent of slightly hardening 
the albumen they are, undoubtedly, more easily digested than in 
any other form. The impression that a raw egg is more readily 
digested than a cooked one is a mistake. If taken raw they 
should be beaten thoroughly so as to expose the particles of al- 
bumen to the air, otherwise the unboiled white forms a viscid 
clotted mass of low diffusibility into which the gastric juice per- 
meates with the greatest difficulty. For sick people a compro- 
mise may be made by adding a stimulent, both to render the 
compound more agreeable to the palate and more easily digest- 
ible, as for example, wine and egg, or brandy and egg. Poach- 
ing is an admirable way of cooking eggs. 

POULTRY AND GAME. 

The flesh of birds contains relatively less fat and juices than 
mammals and is, therefore, less nutritious and also less fitted for 
strong men than for invalids, who require a lighter diet. The 
flesh of wild birds is closer and firmer than domesticated birds, 
but the flavor is fuller and stronger. It contains more nitrogen 
but less fat and is probably less valuable as a food, although wild 
birds living on insects and grain are both rich and delicate food 
when properly cooked. 



FOOD. 253 

FISH. 

Fish, for food purposes, are divided into two classes, white 
blooded and red blooded. The first may be represented by the 
cod, and the second by the salmon. The nutritive value of fish 
varies very considerably. The white fish contain but little oil 
and are, therefore, less nutitious, while in the salmon the oil is 
distributed throughout the muscular tissue, which consequently 
gives them a greater food value. Eels are a luscious and rich food, 
and possess a high nutritive value. The methods of preparing 
fish for the table are numerous and may exercise all the skill of 
the cook. 

OYSTEES. 

The oyster is not a food of high nutritive value, but its delicacy 
of flavor makes it useful to the sick. The mode of eating it 
may depend upon the taste of the individual. The raw oyster is 
much more easily digested than the cooked, hence in feeble con- 
ditions of the stomach, if it can be tolerated, it is to be preferred. 

LOBSTER AND CEAB. 

These are neither very nutritious nor easy to digest. Their 
tissues are coarse and tough, and while they are popular as a 
change of food and as a luxury, they are a frequent cause of in- 
digestion. 

CHEESE. 

The value of cheese as an article of diet depends upon the va- 
riety. Rich cheese of proper age is highly nutritive, and while 
somewhat difficult to digest in itself, it promotes the digestion 
of other foods. 

MILK. 

This is one of the most valuable foods we have. It contains 
all the elements of nutrition within itself, and in the most di- 
gestible form. Whatever the source of milk, it contains essen- 
tially the same elements and has always the same qualities. The 
milk of one animal differs from another only in the relative pro- 
portions of these elements. The test of quality is usually the pro- 
portion of cream. Cow's milk is the most agreeable to the taste, 
and differs from human milk chiefly in having a larger propor- 



254 FOOD. 

tion of fat and casein, and a less proportion of sugar. If a mix- 
ture be made of two-thirds of cow's milk and one-third of warm 
water, to which half an ounce of sugar of milk, or half that 
quantity of refined cane sugar, be added to the pint, we shall 
obtain a composition very similar to that of the mother's milk. 
Skimmed milk is more nutritive than is generally supposed. 
It differs from new milk in the removal of nearly all the cream. 
It is said that if one-fourth or one-half ounce of fat, as suet, to 
a pint, be added to skimmed milk, it is equal in nutritive value 
to new milk. The milk of all animals is more easily digested 
when eaten warm. 

BUTTER AND FATS. 

The value of these substances in the animal economy is very 
great, both chemically and physically. Fat supplies the heat 
forming elements of food, and is more readily transformed than 
starch. It supplies an essential element in growth, and in the 
daily use of the body it is necessary that there should be a full 
supply of fat in some of its forms. It supplies an agreeable 
flavor, without which bread and farinaceous food could not be 
readily eaten, and it lubricates the passages, through which the 
masticated food is more readily conveyed. 

VEGETABLE FOODS. 

The same nutritive elements exist in vegetables that exist in 
animal foods, and within certain limits the two classes are inter- 
changeable. They are also divided into flesh formers and into 
heat givers. The former consists of seeds and vegetable tissues, 
whilst the latter consists of starch and sugar. That is, seeds 
when digested will produce flesh, and starch when transformed 
may produce fat, although the latter is denied by some cliemists. 
The mineral and organic salts which are required for nutrition 
are also found in the vegetable kingdom. It will be seen tliat 
both kingdoms contain the same nutritive elements, and while 
we may subsist on substances obtained exclusively from one or 
the other, experience shows that the processes of nutrition can 
be performed better on a diet derived from both kingdoms in 
varying proportions. The coolciug of flesh is desirable, although 
it is not necessary to its digestion, but the cooking of seeds is 



FOOD. 255 

still more so in order to enable the stomach to dissolve and per- 
fectly transform them. It is commonly supposed that the di- 
gestion of vegetables is easier than that of animal food, and that 
the process is more quickly performed, but the experiments of 
Dr. Beaumont have shown that mutton will be digested more 
quickly than bread, and an egg earlier than a potato. Another 
fact of importance is that a greater bulk of vegetable than of 
animal food is required to provide the necessary amount of nu- 
triment, and hence those who live chiefly on the former must 
eat larger quantities ; otherwise the difference would not be great. 
Vegetables also require a greater power of digestion, and the vital 
actions move more slowly. 

PEAS AND BEANS. 

The most highly nutritious seeds are peas and beans, as they 
contain a large percentage of nitrogen. It is well known that 
they must be thoroughly cooked. The time required to digest 
beans when boiled is from two and one-half to three hours. 

INDIAN CORN. 

While corn is less nutritious than the leguminous seeds it is 
more agreeable to the taste, and it is more readily eaten, aud at 
the same time more readily cooked and digested. It contains a 
larger proportion of nitrogen than wheat and, hence, is a more 
stimulating food. The time required for the digestion of corn- 
cake or bread is from three to tliree and one-half hours. 

WHEAT. 

This is the most important of the vegetable products as a food. 
It is preferable to any others on which men chiefly live, since it 
is a far more agreeable food than corn, and more nutritious than 
rice. It contains nearly all the essential elements of nutrition. 
The quality varies with the seed, the cultivation, the season, and 
the climate. In hot climates and in hot seasons the product is 
harder and more nitrogenous than that of a wet or cold season. 
The outside layers of a wheat grain contains a considerable quan- 
tity of nitrogen, and are therefore nutritive. The inner part 
consists largely of starch, hence flour made exclusively of the 
interior of the grain is relatively poor in nutritive qualities. 



256 FOOD. 

The most improved methods of grinding, however, eflPect a com- 
promise by which a large percentage of the nitrogen-containing- 
parts are retained in the finest and whitest flour. 

Newly made bread is less digestible than that which has been 
kept for a certain time. This is due to a degree of toughness 
which renders the bread less capable of mastication, whilst after 
bread has been kept for a short time it has lost some of its water, 
and is more friable. It is also probable that new and hot bread 
is eaten rapidly with less mastication, and is consequently swal- 
lowed in larger lumps than old bread. Bread made from good 
flour is easier to masticate and digest than that made from poor. 

EICE. 

Rice consists almost exclusively of starch and is relatively de- 
ficient in nitrogenous elements, and is therefore inferior to wheat 
in nutritive value. New rice is said to be inferior in quality to 
old, as it is mucli less digestible, and is likely to produce indiges- 
tion, diarrhoea, and rheumatism. The time required for the di- 
gestion of boiled rice is from one to two hours. 

OATMEAL. 

Oatmeal is a strong and highly nutritious food, but requires 
much cooking to break its starch cells, in order to make it easily 
digested. 

VEGETABLES. 

The potato is the most important representative of this class, 
both for nutritive value and for its agreeable flavor. It forms 
an important article of food for many people. The chemical 
composition does not difi'er materially in the several varieties, al- 
though there is some diSerence in flavor which serves as the ba- 
sis of choice in the difierent kinds. The relative value of pota- 
toes is determined by their weight, for the heavier they are m 
relation to size, the more starch they contain. They are defi- 
cient in mineral matter and are therefore unfit to be a sole food. 

New and waxy potatoes are less digestible than old and mealy 
ones. The time required for their digestion is from two and 
a half to three and a hal f hours. 

Cabbage, mustard, radishes, turnips, onions, tomatoes, cucum- 



FOOD. 257 

bers, and pumkin, constitute the least nutritious class of veget- 
able foods, and ai'e perhaps less valuable for their direct nutritive 
elements than for their indirect and medicinal and saline juices. 

FRUITS. 

These are less nutrient foods than luxuj'ious, yet they are ad- 
ditions to a dietary. Their agreeable flavor moistens the mouth 
and stimulates the sense of taste. They differ in digestibility 
according to the proportion of fibrous tissue they contain. In 
such fruits as the strav^berry, pine-apple, grape, and banana the 
cell-wall is very thin and easily broken up, hence digestion is 
easily performed. All fruits contain much fluid in relation to 
the solid matter, and supply sugar, acids, salts, and various vola- 
tile essences, upon which their flavor depends, and are extremely 
useful in preserving health and promoting the appetite. A 
great blessing has been gained by the development of the vari- 
ous methods of preserving fruits in such a manner as to retain 
their juices, salts, and flavor. 

CONDIMEITTS. 

While condiments are not foods, they are extremely valuable 
adjuncts to food and useful medicines. They render the food 
more palatable, stimulate the appetite, and assist in preserving 
food. 

17 



OHAPTEE XXIII. 



FOOD ADULTERATIONS. 



BY THOMAS E. POPE. 

Professor of Chemistry, Iowa State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts, 
Ames, Iowa. 




BAKING POWDERS. 

^AKING powders are a mixture of bicarbonate of soda 
with either tartaric acid, cream of tartar, or acid phos- 
phate of lime. The adulterations are generally flour, 
starch, and alum. The flour and starch being used to 
increase the weight and bulk, and alum to make the bread white 
and stiffen the gluten of the flour, so that an inferior flour can 
be used to make good bread. 

To detect flour, and starch, dissolve the powder in water. 
If nothing but cream of tartar, tartaric acid, and bicarbonate of 
soda have been used, the powder will dissolve completelJ^ If 
tartaric acid has been used some flour has to be added to keep 
the powder from spoiling, and a small amount therefore must 
not be looked upon as an impurity. Tartaric acid is the most 
economical to use of the two, one half of the acid properties be- 
ing neutralized in cream of tartar. 
To detect alum see article on flour. 

As the value of baking powders depends entirely on the amount 
of gas they will generate, an estimation of the amount will de- 
termine their comparative merits. This can be done roughly as 
follows: 

Wrap some of the baking powder up in porous paper, then 
fill a pan with warm water, hold a tumbler inclined under the 
water, when filled with water raise the closed end out, and lift 

259 



260 ' FOOD ADULTERATIONS. 

the tumbler as high as possible without letting the mouth come 
out from the water. Then insert the paper containing the pow- 
der quickly under the mouth of the tumbler. As soon as the 
water sinks through the paper gas will be formed, and the 
amount in the tumbler will show the value of the powder. 

COFFEE. 

Raw coffee when shaken up with cold water, allowed to stand 
for fifteen minutes and filtered, gives a filtrate nearly colorless. 
The coffee bean is not changed by soaking in warm water, but 
the imitated bean either crumbles, renders the water turbid, or 
else changes its color. 

Roasted unground coffee when shaken with water floats, but 
the imitated bean sinks. The water remains colorless if the cof- 
fee has not been sprinkled with sugar to glaze before roasting. 
To test ground roasted coffee, shake three parts of the coffee up 
with twenty parts of cold water, set aside for half an hour, 
shake again and filter. The filtrate ought not to be bitter and 
should be colorless or slightly yellow. Adulterations give a yel- 
low or brown tint and some a bitter taste to the filtrate. 

To detect adulterations with wheat, rye, or any substance con- 
taining starch, shake up the cofiee with a dilute solution of caus- 
tic potash, filter, dilute with considerable water, acidify with hj'- 
drochloric or sulphuric acid, and add a few drops of iodine solu- 
tion. The solution will turn blue if starchy adulterations are 
present. — From Fresenius^ '"'Zeitscheifs." 

FLOUR. 

To detect adulteration with alum, make a solution of logwood 
by soaking for twenty minutes about two parts of logwood in 
the form of sawdust, or raspings, with one thousand parts of 
rain water. This solution must be made up fresh when Avanted, 
and the logwood from which the sawdust is made must be taken 
from the center of a large piece where it is not exposed to the 
air. Logwood chips will not do as well, and the extract is of no 
value at all. Make a solution of carbonate of ammonia by dis- 
solving one part of the salt in three parts of water and one of 
ammonia. Take about half an ounce of the flour and mix with 
rain water to a thin paste, add about a table-spoonful of the log- 
wood solution previously mixed with an equal bulk of the car- 



FOOD ADULTERATIONS. 261 

bonate of ammonia; if alum is present the mixture will turn 
bluish black; if not it remains pink. — Bobbins'' test. 

SUGAR. 

Pure sugar is soluble in water, and some adulterations, such 
as starch, terra alba, gypsum, etc., can be detected by their in- 
solubility. To detect glucose, add to the solution of sugar a few 
drops of a solution of copper sulphate, then enough of a solution 
of caustic potash to dissolve the precipitate first formed, and boil. 
A red precipitate proves the presence of glucose, the amount 
of precipitate depending on the quantity of glucose present. 

A simpler method, though not as delicate, is to boil the solution 
of sugar with a solution of caustic potash; if glucose is present 
the solution will turn brown, the depth of color depending on 
the amount of glucose present. 

Brown sugars, molasses, and syrups all contain some glucose, 
and powdered sugar some starch. 

TEAS. 
To detect coloring or facing material, agitate half an ounce 
or so of tea in a little warm water for a few minutes, and strain 
through muslin; the coloring matter will pass through, and, on 
standing, settle out. Green teas are more apt to be covered with 
injurious matters than black. Foreign leaves can best be de- 
tected after soaking in water, when they unroll and show their 
form; if the tea is powdered the microscope must be used. 

VINEGAR. 

To detect the presence of mustard, ginger, or any astringent 
principle used to give a fictitious strength, add carbonate of soda 
(washing s&da) until there is no more effervescence; any acid or 
astringent taste will be the test for impurities. 

To prove the presence of mineral acids, sulphuric, hydrochloric, 
etc., boil three or four ounces of vinegar twenty minutes with six 
or seven grains of powdered starch, then add one or two drops of 
diluted tincture of iodine; a blue color, the reaction of starch on 
iodine, will prove the absence of mineral acids. This test is based 
on the fact that boiling starch with mineral acids changes it to 
dextrine and glucose; if no mineral acids are present the starch 
is left unchanged, and gives its characteristic color with iodine. 

The strength of vinegars can be roughly ascertained by weigh- 



262 FOOD ADULTERATIONS. 

ing out one ounce of clear and transparent crystals of washing 
soda, and slowly pouring on it the vinegar to be tested until ac- 
tive effervescence ceases; this will take place as soon as enough 
acid has been added to neutralize the soda. One ounce of wash- 
ing soda will neutralize one-half ounce of acetic acid, the acid of 
vinegar, and dividing this number by the number of ounces of 
vinegar used, will give its strength. Good vinegar ought to con- 
tain about four and one-half per cent of acid. 

WATER. 

Water when pure is odorless, colorless, tasteless, and not 
turned brown by Nessler's solution. The odor is best detected 
by heating the water nearly to boiling in a clean flask or bottle, 
shaking and smelling; heating makes the odor stronger. The 
color can best be observed by holding the bottle, which must be 
of clear white glass, up to the light, and no particles should be 
seen floating round in the water. 

Nessler's solution had better be prepared at a drug store or by 
some chemist. The formula is: Dissolve four parts of iodide of 
potash in ten parts of distilled water, and add while warming 
powdered red iodide of mercury, until a little remains undis- 
solved, then dilute with forty parts of water; filter and add 
seventy-five parts of dilute caustic soda solution (one part of 
soda to twenty of water); let it stand for two days, and decant 
from any residue that may settle. 

Add about a tea-spoonful of the Nessler's solution to a couple 
of ounces of water in a wine-glass. A brown or red coloration 
is due to free ammonia, and though harmless in itself, indicates 
that the water has been contaminated with organic matter which 
has since been destroyed. Water showing much of a coloration 
is not fit to drink. A white precipitate is due to lime or mag- 
nesia, which makes a water hard but is not unhealthy. 

Another simple test for organic impurities is to add a table- 
spoonful of granulated sugar to a pint of water, pour into a clean 
glass bottle and set in the sunlight; the bottle must be kept 
corked loosely. If the water remains clear, it is free from or- 
ganic mater; if it clouds, it is impure. Water when freezing 
throws out lime and other inorganic impurities, but retains much 
of the organic matter, and ice made from impure water is unfit 
to drink. 



CHAPTEE XXIV. 



ANTIDOTES TO POISONS. 



BY PROF. T. E. POPE. 




ANTIDOTES TO POISONS. 

HERE are three general raethods to be pursued: First— 
To remove the poison from the body by emetics and 
purgatives. Warm water and mustard is a safe and 
quick emetic. Salt and water may also be employed. 
Vomiting may be aided by tickling the throat with a feather. 
Second — To administer something that shall retard the absorp- 
tion of the poison. White of eggs, flour, milk and lard, all act 
in this manner, and sometimes form harmless compounds with 
the poison. Lard or fats must not be given in cases of poison- 
ing by phosphorus. Third — To administer some substance that 
shall act chemically on the poison and form a harmless com- 
pound or else combat its physiological action. 

ACIDS. 

Hydrochloric, called also muriatic; sulphuric, called also oil 

vitriol; nitric, called also aqua fortis; acetic acid and vinegar. 

Antidotes. — Some alkali, as carbonate of soda, or soapsuds. 

Very dilute nitric acid in sawdust is useful for cleaning brass. 

ALKALIES. 

Ammonia, potash, soda, and their carbonates. 

Antidote. — Vinegar or vegetable acids, lemons, milk. 

Ammonia is used to soften water and remove grease stains; 

potash and soda to make soap. 

263 



264 ANTIDOTES TO POISONS. 

AJ^TIMONY. 

Antidote. — Vomiting should be induced by large draughts of 
warm water. Chemical antidote — strong infusion of green tea, 
oak bark, or nut-galls have been recommended. Antimony is 
met with generally as tarter emetic. 

AESENIC. 

Antidote. — Give an emetic and white of egg in milk. The 
chemical antidote is hydrated resquioxide of iron, prepared by add- 
ing ammonia to tincture of iron, and straining off the precipitate on 
muslin. A table-spoonful or more of this may be given at a dose. 
Arsenic in a poisonous form is found in arsenious acid, frequently 
called arsenic, fly powder or cobalt, Fowler's solution, Paris green, 
Emerald green, and a number of other substances. 

COPPER. 

Antidote. — Emetics and white of egg or milk. Vinegar must 
not be given. Copper in the form of copper sulphate, verdigris, 
and Paris green are all poisonous. Cases of poisoning are known 
from cooking acid food in copper or brass vessels. 

LEAD. 

Antidote. — Emetics; sulphate of magnesia or epsom salts; very 
dilute sulphuric acid ; milk with white of egg. Lead in the form 
of white lead, sugar of lead, red lead and litharge are all poisonous, 
and rain water kept in contact with lead pipes in cisterns is un- 
safe to drink. 

HYDROCHLORIC ACID— See Acids. 

IODINE AND IODIDE OF POTASH. 

Antidote. — Emetics; wheat flour; starch. Iodine forms an in- 
soluable compound with starch. There is no chemical antidote 
to iodide of potash. 

DOVER'S POWDER— See Opium. 
LAUDANUM— See Opium. 
MORPHINE— See Opium. 
NITRIC ACID— See Acids. 



ANTIDOTES TO POISONS. 265 

OPIUM. 

Paragoric, laudanum, Dover's powders and morphiue are all 
made from opium. 

Antidote. — Emetics. Keep the person awake; striking with 
wet cloths and dashing cold water over the head and chest are 
useful. As a stimulant strong coffee is recommended. 

OXALIC ACID. 

Antidote. — Powdered chalk, magnesia, white wash, large 
draughts of warm water; these should be given as soon as 
possible. Carbonate of soda is of no use. 

Oxalic acid is used to remove ink stains and iron rust from 
white clothing, polishing marble, and looks very much like epsom 
salts; it differs in its acid taste. 

PAKAGOKIC— See Opium. 

PHOSPHOROUS. 

Antidote. — An emetic as soon as possible. Fats must not be 
given. Purgatives may be given if the poison has passed into 
the intestines. Phosphorous is found on matches, and in rat 
poison. 

POTASH— See Ammonia. 

SILVER AS I^ITRATE. 

Antidote. — Common salt administered as soon as possible. 
Nitrate of silver is used in indelible inks and also as a caustic. 

SODA— See Ammonia. 

SULPHURIC ACID— See Acids. 

STRYCHNINE. 

Antidote. — Emetic and use of chloroform as a chemical anti- 
dote; strong solution of green tea has been recommended. Used 
only as a poison. 

ZINC. 

Antidote. — Milk and white of egg; large amount of warm 
water, repeatedly given. Carbonate of soda has been recom- 
mended as an antidote. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



DANGEROUS ILLUMINATING OILS. 



BY J. K. MACOMBER, B. SC, 

Professor of Physics in the Iowa College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts, 
Ames, Iowa. 




DANGEEOUS OILS. 

|TL lamps continue to explode. Life and property are des- 
[I troyed almost every day because of accidents, with what 
are supposed to be kerosene oil lamps. The general pub- 
lic attributes the explosion to the upsetting of the lamp 
or some other carelessness. People are not aware of the fact that 
good kerosene oil will not explode. They seem slow to believe 
that an explosion or a sudden burst of flame from a broken lamp 
IS certain evidence of a bad oil. It is the purpose of these pages 
to point out the nature of these substances, and the practical 
methods by which the dangerous can be detected and distin- 
guished from the safe oils. 

All these oils are the product of petroleum. Petroleum or 
"rock oil," occurs as a natural product in enormous quantities in 
Pennsylvania, Ohio, and other adjacent states. It is found in 
wells from which, in some cases, hundreds of barrels flow in a 
day. The native petroleum is a dark colored fluid, and from it 
by distillation are obtained a large number of substances which 
are used for illuminating purposes. All of these substances may 
be classed as " Hydro-carbons," being composed of hydrogen and 
carbon in various proportions. All are inflammable and all are 
sometimes used for burning in lamps. When petroleum is 
heated the first liquid driven off, that we need consider, is 

GASOLENE. 

This is a very clear transparent liquid with a specific gravity 
of about Q6, calling water 100. It has a penetrating odor and is 

267 



268 DANGEROUS ILLUMINATING OILS. 

SO volatile that unless it is kept in a perfectly air-tight vessel it 
soon escapes. Its vapor is highly inflammable far below the ^ 
freezing point of water, and if a quantity is once fired it blazes 
up with such violence that it can hardly be extinguished. Mixed 
with a certain proportion of air it forms a compound which ex- 
plodes like gunpowder. This is the substance used in automatic 
gas machines for making gas. Air is pumped over the gasoline 
and mixed with the vapor. If the proportion of air to vapor is 
kept about right it burns much like ordinary gas, aifd by storing 
the liquid under ground far from a building, no special danger 
need be feared. 

GASOLENE STOVES AND GASOLENE LAMPS. 

Stoves are now made in which gasolene vapor is burned. A 
reservoir holding about a gallon is placed several feet above the 
point where it is to be burned, and then by heating a tube con- 
taining the liquid, the vapor issues forth mixed with air and pro- 
duces a very hot flame. In careless hands these stoves are 
certainly dangerous. And the greatest danger arises from the 
fact that those who use them must generally store some of the 
gasolene about the premises. If there exists the slightest defect 
in the vessel, the vapor steals out and a lighted lantern or lamp 
brought near will almost certainly result in a violent explosion. 
Lamps were formerly made which burned gasolene, and the same 
objection applies to them that does to stoves. No good insur- 
ance company will take risks on buildings where this substance 
is used. 

The following article, clipped from a Chicago paper, illustrates 
the nature of gasolene: 

"GrASOLENE EXPLOSION". — A mixed case of bad judgment, hero- 
ism and suffering occurred at an early hour yesterday morning at 
the house of Mr. J. M — , Barber street. The husband and father 
of the family had gone away, and Mi's. M. subsequently went to 
light a gasolene stove, on which she had been accustomed to pre- 
pare her meals. As she bent over it with a lighted match an explo- 
sion occurred which was heard in several houses in the vicinity. 
Before Mrs. M. could realize her dangerous situation, the flames 
from the combustible material had enveloped her dress and were 
scorching her body. The flames had taken hold of some timber 



DANGEROUS ILLUMINATING OILS. 269 

and spread rapidly to a bed near by, in which her twelve year old 
boy was sleeping. Before he awoke he was badly scorched. His 
mother in her despair ran to the back yard, her clothing ablaze, 
and crying for help in her frenzy. Her daughter pursued her with 
a blanket and threw it about her mother and smothered the flames, 
but not before her own face and hands were blistered. In the 
meantime the boy had been battling for himself and had suc- 
ceeded in extinguishing the flames on his own clothing, but at 
the expense of intense suffering. The greater portion of his body 
was literally roasted and he was unable to speak. The mother was 
delerious. The fire department turned out and extinguished the 
fire. The boy and girl will recover, but there is little hope for 
the mother." — Times. 

XAPTHA AND BENZIKE. 

The next product of petroleum is naptha. This substance is 
also highly inflammable, with a very pungent odor and clear trans- 
parent appearance. There are three grades of naptha in the mar- 
ket, A, B and C. These vary in specific gravity from TO to 75. 
A light naptha is called ''benzine." Both are used for removing 
grease from clothing. Naptha is used for making gas by forc- 
ing the liquid into a red-hot retort in the absence of air. It 
is then driven into a gas holder and mixed with about forty per 
cent of air. This process is used very successfully at the Agri- 
cultural College. In some countries naptha is mixed with earth 
and then used for fuel. All grades of naptha are dangerous, 
when used for illuminating purposes. Like gasolene, its vapor 
ignites far below the freezing point of water, and at the ordi- 
nary temperature of the air it burns with great fury. Its vapor 
mixed with air in certain proportions produces a compound as 
explosive and dangerous as gunpowder. If the spout of a can 
containing it is left open, fire is liable to run down into the ves- 
sel, following the vapor, and explode the can. If a lighted lamp 
containing this substance breaks, the entire room will be filled 
with flame in an instant, all light objects will be ignited and the 
results are always disastrous to life and property. The per cent 
of naptha in our American petroleums is very large; and since 
its uses are comparatively few, its cheapness offers a constant 



270 DANGEROUS ILLUMINATING OILS. 

temptation for dishonest manufacturers and dealers, to mix it 
with the next and most valuable product of petroleum. 

KEROSENE. 

Good kerosene is almost as transparent as water when prop- 
erly prepared. Some of it is of a yellowish color, and has a pe- 
culiar bluish tint when viewed by transmitted light. Its specific 
gravity is about 80, sometimes a little more or a little less. It 
evaporates very slowly, and does not give off any inflammable 
vapors until heated to J 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Good, standard 
kerosene oil is perfectly safe. A lighted match can be thrust 
into it at any temperature below 150 degrees and it will not fire 
it. If spilled on a table and a match applied, it will be difficult 
to light it, and when ignited it burns very slowly at first. It is 
the mixing of naptha with kerosene which renders it so danger- 
ous. Good kerosene sells at twenty-five to thirty cents per gal- 
lon, retail. Naptha can be purchased at 11 to 12 cents per gallon 
by the dealer. By selling naptha for kerosene enormous profits 
are made and the consumer is cheated in two ways. He is in 
constant danger of fire, and the naptha does not give near as 
much light as good oil. Formerly it was thought to be safe to 
use oil having a burning point of 110 degrees Fahrenheit. If 
lamps were always kept in good condition this would answer; 
but it frequently happens that the top portion of a lamp gets 
very hot. This raises the fluid up to the burning point and serious 
consequences may follow. The fire test should be 150 degrees 
Fahrenheit. Oil of this quality may be regarded as perfectly 
safe. 

HOW TO TEST OILS. 

With a little care any one can test a specimen of oil and de- 
termine whether it is fit for use. A common thermometer, a 
tea-cup, saucer, and a little warm water includes the apparatus 
needed. First remove all objects from the table which are in- 
flammable. Put some boiling water in the tea-cup and gradu- 
ally pour in cold water, until its temperature is about 145 de- 
grees. Four a little oil on the warm water and stir well until the 
oil has the same temperature as the water. Light a match and 
move it quickly two or three times over the surface of the oil. 



DANGEROUS ILLUMINATING OILS. 



271 



Do not hold it still a moment. The test is for the purpose of 
determining the presence of inflammable vapors over the fluid. 
Finally plunge the match quickly into the oil. If it does not 
ignite the oil is all right. If it lights, reject it as below the 
standard and dangerous. To extinguish the oil when lighted 
place the saucer over the tea-cup. If the oil is suspected to 
be very bad, pour a little on water at about 60 or 70 degrees. If 
it contains naptha or gasolene it will ignite the moment a match 
comes over it and burn furiously. Again, pour a little good ker- 
osene oil on a smooth board and apply a lighted match. It will 
ignite with great difficulty and probabl}' go out. Now pour a 
little oil which contains naptha, or a little pure naptha, on a 
board and apply a lighted match. It will burst into a great 
flame instantly, and unless very little is used the flame will rise 
up several feet. All these tests should be made in a room where 
there is no light or fire near, as any specimen may be a danger- 
ous one. 

Below is presented a table, giving the specific gravities of a 
number of these substances, and also their burning points: 



NAME, 



SPECIFIC 
GRAVITY. 



BURNING POINT, 



CHARACTER. 



Gasolene 

C Naptha 

B Naptha 

A Naptha — 

Kerosene 

Paraffine 

"Safety Fluid 
"Kerosene" B 



66.5 

70 
72 
74 
80 
84 
69 
77.5 



Below freezing point 
Below freezing point 
Below freezing point 
Below freezing point 

150" 

Solid 
Below freezing point 

40« 



Very dangerous 
Very dangerous 
Very dangerous 
Very dangerous 
Perfectly safe 



Very dangerous 
Dangerous 



The specific gravities represent the relative weight compared 
with water, which is called 100. Paraffine is a white, wax-like 
substance sometimes used for making candles, and is the residuum 
from the distillation of some petroleums. The so-called " safety 
fluid" is a specimen sent me for examination after a lamp filled 
with it had exploded and burned two children to death. 

The specimen marked "kerosene" B is another which was 
sent me for examination, and the person using it had been 
warned against it by having two slight explosions, or " puffs," 
which blew out the light. He had also noticed that the light 



272 DANGEROUS ILLUMINATING OILS. 

from it was very poor. It is vile, dangerous stuff, and the men 
who sell such should be prosecuted to the extent of the law. 
But the so-called " Safety Fluid" is one of the most dangerous 
substances ever put into a lamp ; a man could read by a lighted 
candle stuck into a keg of gunpowder with more "safety" than 
by a lamp fed with such fluid. Better have a powder magazine 
under your bed than to store such safety fluids about your house. 
There are certain dishonest dealers who put some substance into 
low grade oils and claim that it renders them safe. Then some 
such name as " safety fluid" is given it, and it goes forth on its 
errand of death; for it can be depended upon, that no chemi- 
cals put into a bad oil can make it safe. Accidents are most 
likely to occur when using a lamp only partially full of the dan- 
gerous oil. When the lamp cools, air enters and mixes with the 
vapor, and the next time it is lighted perhaps the flame will run 
down beside the wick and an explosion results. In testing an 
oil a bluish flame will sometimes be seen to run over the surface 
of the fluid, and then go out at a temperature below where the 
oil burns. This first temperature is called the "flashing point." 
In some states the "flashing point" is used as the basis for test- 
ing oils. This is a lower temperature by five or ten degrees than 
the " burning point." 

The dangerous qualities of naptha and gasolene are inherent 
in the nature of the liquids themselves, and no human device 
can alter them, and yet there are men who go about pretending 
to sell " non-explosive napthas," and " non-explosive" lamps and 
stoves. " Safety lamps" and "safety fluids" are only safe when 
the fluid used is good kerosene, and this is always safe. The 
victims of these disasters are generally innocent women and 
children. By purchasing oils in quantities of five gallons at a 
time, and applying the tests as described in this paper, all danger 
can be avoided. 



INDEX. 



A. 

PAGE. 

Acids 263 

Adulterations— Food 259 

Adulterations in Mustard 245 

Alkalies 263 

Almond Cream 144 

Amber Soup 153 

Anchovy Omelette 226 

Angels' Food 85 

Animal Foods. 250 

Antidotes to Poisons 263 

Antimony 264 

Apple Amber Pudding 115 

Apple Batter Pudding 117 

Apple Charlotte 139 

Apple Corer 38 

Apple Custard 134 

Apple Ginger 235 

Apples — Iced 236 

Apple Jelly 231 

Apple Marmalade 234 

Apple Omelet 116 

Apple Pies 107 

Apple Pudding 116 

Apple Soulflee 140 

Apples — Stewed, for children . . 235 

Apple — To Bake for children . . . 226 

Apricot Cream 134 

Apricot Toast 246 

B. 

Bain Marie 88 

Baking 23 

Baked Apple Pudding 116 

Baked Cui?tard 132 

Baked Fish 193 

Baked Indian Pudding 126 

Baked Omlette Soufflee 141 

Baked Onions 206 

Baked Potatoes 201 

Baked Squush 208 

Baked Tomatoes 206 

Baked Tongue 168 

Baking Powders 259 

Baking Powder Biscuit 71 

Baking Powder Muffins 71 

Barley Water 239 

Batter Padding 119 

lo 



FAOE. 

Bavarian Creams . 135 

Beaten Omelette 223 

Beef 61 

Beef a la Mode 162 

Beef Soup 154 

Beefsteak 165 

Beefsteak Omelet 168 

Beefsteak Pudding 166 

Beefsteak Rolls 167 

Beef Stew 164 

Beef Tea 243 

Beets 209 

Benzene 269 

Berry Pie Ill 

Beny Pudding 120 

Beverages 237 

Biscuit 70 

Blackberry Wine 241 

Black Cake 78 

Black Pudding 118 

Blanc Mange 138, 139 

Blanquette of Veal 171 

Boiled Apple or Fruit Pudding. 117 

Boiled Asparagus 209 

Boiled Beef 163 

Boiled Carrots 209 

Boiled Custard 132 

Boiled Fish 193, 194 

Boiled Ginger Pudding 119 

Boiled Ham 176 

Boiled Icing 99 

Boiled Indian Pudding 127 

Boiled Leg of Lamb 175 

Boiled Leg of Mutton 174 

Boiled Parsnips 209 

Boiled Potatoes 201 

Boiled Turkey 180 

Boiling 23 

Boning 25 

Boston Cream Cake 95 

Bouillon 154 

Bouquet-Garni 25 

Braising 26 

Bread and Breakfast Cakes 61 

Bread 61, 66 

Bread-crumb Cakes 73 

Bread Cake 79 

Bread Omelette 226 

Bread Sauce 189 

273 



274 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Breakfast.. 13 

Breakfast, Dinner, Tea 13 

Breakfast Cakes 72 

Breakfast Rolls 67 

Breast of Mutton 174 

Brillat-Savarin 30 

Broiling 27 

Broiled Mackerel 195 

Broiled Quail.... 185 

Bronchitis — Receipt for 245 

Brown Betty 115 

Brovm Bread 68, 69 

Brown Bread Pan 38 

Brown Fricasee of Chicken 181 

Buckwheat Cakes 73 

Burnt Cream 137 

Butter and Fats (as foods) 254 

c. 

Cabbage 205 

Cabage a la Creme 204 

Cabbage Farci, or Stuffed 205 

Cabbage Salad 216 

Cabinet Pudding 127 

Cake 75 

Cake Box 39 

Calf's Foot .Jelly 232 

Calf's Foot Jelly, with wine 231 

Candy 245, 246 

Canned Salmon — How to Use. . 195 

Canning Sweet Corn 244 

Caper Sauce 182 

Caramel Cream 137 

Caramel Custard 138 

Caramel for Coloring Soup 160 

Caramel Pudding 120 

Caramels .... 246 

Caramel Sauce 129 

Carrot Omelette 227 

Casserole 39 

Cauliflower 210 

Celery Salad 214 

Celery Salt 26 

Celery Sauce 189 

Charlotte a la Farisienne 97 

Charlotte Polonaise Cake 95 

Charlotte Russe 139 

Charlotte Russe Cup 39 

Cheese (as food) 253 

Cheese Cakes 112 

Cheese Fondu 227 

Cheese Omelette 227 

Cheese Scallop 227 

Cherry Syrup 238 

Chicken and Oyster Croquettes. 197 

Chicken Croquettes 183 

Chicken Curry 183 



FAGB 

Chicken Loaf 182 

Chicken Patties 182 

Chicken Salad 215, 217 

Chicken Soup 156 

Chili Sauce 187, 188 

Chocolate Cake 80 

Chocolate Cream 135, 144 

Chocolate Custard 132 

Chocolate Icing 84, 99 

Chocolate Pudding 124. 125 

Chopped Pickle 220 

Christmas Pudding 118 

Cider Spiced Cake 89 

Cii-cular Mold 40 

Clam Chowder 196 

Clarify Stock 151 

Claret Jelly 231 

Clear Soup or Consomme 151 

Cleaver - 40 

Clothes Sprinkler 40 

Cocoanut Cake 81 

Cocoanut Pie 112 

Cocoanut Pudding 124 

Codfish for Breakfast 196 

Cod Pie 195 

Coffee 237 

Coffee, Adulterations in 260 

Coiree Cream 135, 144 

Coffee, Golden 238 

Cold Apple Pudding 114 

Cold Pine-apple Pudding 115 

Cold Slaw 205 

Composition Cake 78 

Condiments 257 

Confectioner's Tube 41 

Consomme a la Royale 151 

Cookies 91 

Copper (antidote for) 264 

Copper Stew-pan 40 

Corn 210 

Corn, To boil on the cob 210 

Corn cut from the cob 210 

Corn Bread. 69 

Corn Cake Pans 42 

Corn Meal Bread 70 

Corn Soup 159 

Corn Patties 210 

Corn Starch Cake 81 

Corn Starch Pudding 124 

Cottage Cheese 228 

Cottage Pudding 118 

Cranberries — Preserved 233 

Cream Cake 92 

Cream Gravy 193 

Cream Pie 94, 111 

Cream Pudding 122 

Cream of Rice 156 

Creams 131 



INDEX. 



275 



PAGE. 

Cruller 42 

Cucumbers Cooked 211 

Cucumbers Preserved 233 

Cucumbers Sliced 211 

Curds and Cream 134 

Curds and Whey 133 

Currant Catsup 191 

Currant Jelly 229 

Currants Spiced , 2o4 

Curried Eggs 225 

Custard a la Royale 151 

Custard Cake 89 

Custard Kettle 42 

Custard Pie 110 

Custards 131 

D. 

Dangerous Oils 267 

Darioles a la Duchess 78 

Dark Puddmg 117 

Delicate Cake 82 

Delmonico Pudding 122 

Deviled Ham 177 

Digester 43 

Dinner 19 

Dough Cake 79 

Doughnuts 91, 92, 93 

Doughnut Cutter 43 

Dover's Powder (antidote) 264 

Drawn Butter 187 

Dressing for Cabbage 204 

Dried A pple Pie 108 

Dried Celery and Parsley 26 

Dried Peach Pie 108 

Drip-pan Grate 44 

Dripping — To Clarify 244 

Duchesse Potatoes 202 

Ducks 184 

Dumplings •• 165 

E. 

Economical Wlaite Soups 155 

Egg Balls for Soup 159 

Egg Boiler 43 

Egg Fi-yer 44 

Egg Plant 208 

Egg Poacher 44 

Egg Rolls 225 

Egg Sauce 188 

Eggs (as food) 2^2 

Eggs, a la Creme 225 

Eggs, Cun-ied 225 

Eggs, Fried 223 

Eggs, Poached 223 

Eggs, Scalloped 224 



PAGE. 

Eggs, Shen-ed 224 

Eggs, Swiss 225 

Eggs, To Keep Fresh 226 

Egg Whisk 44 

English Buns 68 

F. 

Fairy Butter 129 

Fancy Nut Cakes 78 

Felt Jelly Bag 45 

Fig Cake 79, 80 

Fig Pudding 118 

Fillet of Beef 55, 162 

Fish (as food) 253 

Fish and Oysters 193 

Fish Balls 195 

Fish Kettle 44 

Fish Sauce 189 

Flour, Adulterations in 260 

Flour Griddle Cakes 73 

Florentine Cake 84 

Flumineiy 138 

Fluted Knife 45 

Foaming Sauce 130 

Folded or Rolled Omelette 224 

Food 247 

Force Meat Balls 158 

French Cook's Knife 45 

French Gumbo 154 

French Pickle 219 

French Salad Dressing 213 

French Salad Mixture 214 

Fricandeau of Veal 170, 171 

Fried Cakes 92 

Fried Chicken 181 

Fried Mackerel 195 

Fried Onions 206 

Fried Oysters 196 

Fried Parsnips 209 

Frizzled Beef 167 

Frosting 99 

Fruitcake 77 

Fruits 59 

Fruits (as food) 253 

Fruits and Jelues 229 

Frying 28 

G. 

Galettes 68 

Gasolene 267 

Gasolene Stoves and Lamps. . . . 268 

German Custard Sauce 113 

German Pound Cake 98 

German Sauce 130 

GilletCake 88 



276 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Ginger Beer 240 

Ginger Bread 90, 91 

Ginger Cakes 94 

Ginger Pudding 119 

Ginger Snaps 90, 91 

Glen Cottage Cake 88 

Glossary ofTerms Used in Cook- 
ing 33 

Golden Coffee 238 

Gold and Silver Cake 85 

Gooseberry Cream 186 

Gooseberry Syrup 239 

Graham Bread 69 

GraT)^ Strai^ner 46 

Green Apple Pies 107, 108 

Green Corn Pudding 121 

Green Tomatoes — Fried 207 

Green Tomato Pickles 221 

Green Tomato Sweet Pickles. . . 220 

H. 

Hamburg Cream 135 

Ham or Tongue Toast 177 

Harricot Mutton 175 

Hash and Toast 167 

Herring Salad 216 

Hickory Nut Cake 90 

Hindquarters of Mutton 57 

Hop Yeast 66 

How to Cook Rice 122 

How to Test Oils 270 

How to Use Canned Salmon 195 

Huckleberry Cake 88 

Hydrochloric Acid (antidote) . . . 264 

I. 

Ice Cream 143-144 

Ice Cream Cake 86 

Iced Apples 236 

Iceland Moss Jelly 231 

Ices 143 

Imperial Cake 85 

Indian Corn 255 

Individual Ice Cream Molds ... 46 
Iodine and Iodine of Potash 264 

J. 

Jackson Jumbles 91 

Japanese Cream 245 

Jellice 239 

Jellied Chicken 182 

Jelly Puddmg 117 

Jelly or Soup Strainer 46 

Jenny Lind Cake 89 

Julienne Soup 152 



Katie's Plain Cake 88 

Kerosene 270 

Klopsof Beef 168 

Krapfen 87 

L. 

Ladies' Cake 88 

Lady Finger Cake Pans 46 

Lamb 57 

Lamb Chops 176 

Lamb Croquettes 176 

Larding 30 

Laudanum (antidote for) 264 

Lead (antidote) 264 

Liebig's Extract of Meat and 

Beef Tea 252 

Lemon Ca,ke 82,915 

Lemon Cookies 94 

Lemon Ice 145 

Lemon Jelly 231 

Lemon Pie 109,110 

Lemon Pudding 125, 126 

Lemon Soufflee 140 

Lemon Squeezer 47 

Lemon Toast 246 

Lemon Zest 31 

Light Biscuit 70 

Liver 55 

Lobster and Crab 253 

Lunch Loaf Cake 94 

Lyonnaise Potatoes 203 

M. 

Macaroni 211 

Macaroni and Chicken 182 

Macaroni Croquettes 212 

Macaroni Soup. 153 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce.. 211 

Mace Compound. ... 130 

Macedoine of Fruits 2;i4 

Mackerel 195 

Madeira Cake 98 

Marketing 51 

Marmalade Cakes 95 

Ma«hed Potato 202 

Mayonnaise Sauce 2 13 

Measures 76 

Meat Pie 169 

Meat Pie Mold 47 

Meats 160 

Meat Squeezer 47' 

Melons — Preserved 234 

Middle Rib Cuts 54 

Milk (as food) 25a 



INDEX. 



277 



PAGE. 

Milk Cracker Pudding 122 

Mince Meat 110 

Mint Sauce for Lamb 187 

MisceDaneous 243 

Mixed Pickle 221 

Mock Mince Pies 112 

Mock Oysters 210 

Mock Oyster Sauce 189 

Mock Turtle Soup 157 

Molasses Pudding 121 

Morphine (antidote) 264 

Mortar and Pestle 48 

MuffinCups 48 

Muffins 71 

Mulligatawney Soup 159 

Mushroom Catsup 191 

Mustard Pickle 219 

Mutton 56 

Mutton (as food) 251 

Mutton Chops 57,174 

N. 

Naptha 269 

New Year's Cake 89 

Nitric Acid (antidote) 264 

Nut Cakes 78 

0. 

Oatmeal (as food) 256 

Oils— How to Test 270 

Omelette Soufflee 141 

One Egg Cake 89 

Onions.^ 205 

Onions Baked 206 

Onions Fried 206 

Opium (antidote) 265 

Orange and Lemon Syrup 240 

Orange Cake 9o 

Orange Pudding 125 

Orange Soufflee 141 

Oyster Fritters 198 

Oyster Patties 197 

Oyster Soup 157 

Oyster Sauce for Turkey 181 

Oyster Stew 196 

Oyster Shortcake 197 

Oysters (as food) 253 

Oysters a la Creme 197 

Oysters Pried 196 

Oysters in the Shell 198 

Oysters Scalloped 196 

P. 

Paragoric (antidote) 265 

Parisienne Potato 204 

Parker House Rolls 70 



PAQK. 

Parsnips 209 

Paste for Cleaning Brass 244 

Paste Jagger 48 

Pastry 102 

Pastry Brush 48 

Peach Cobbler 111 

Peach Marmalade 235 

Peas 209 

Peas and Beans (as food) 255 

Pea Soup 158 

Phosphorous (antidote) 265 

Pickled Cabbage 221 

Pickled Plums 220 

PieTlanfc Pie 108, 109 

Pies and Puddings 101 

Plain Cake 90,98 

Plain Dutch Sauce 190 

Plain Pie Crust 102 

Plain Plum Pudding 113 

Plum Pudding 113, 114 

Plums — Preserved 233 

Poached Eggs 223 

Polish Hare 167 

Pomade 245 

Poor Man's Pudding 113 

Pop Overs 72 

Pop Pudding 121 

Pork 58 

Pork (as food) 251 

Pork-and Beans 177 

Pork Cake 87 

Pork Spare Ribs 176 

Porter House Steak 54 

Potage a la Rheim 153 

Potash (antidote) 265 

Pototo 199 

Potato Bumpo 203 

Potato Cheese Cakes 112 

Potato Croquettes 203 

Potato Cutters 48 

Potato Masher 48 

Potato Muffle 203 

Potato Pudding 118 

Potato Puff 202 

Potato Quirlers 49 

Potato, Saratoga 203 

Potato Snow 202 

Potato, To Bake 201 

Potato, To Boil 201 

Potato Yeast 65 

Potted Meat 169 

Poultry 58 

Poultry and Game (as foods) . . . 252 

Pound Cake 79 

Prairie Chickens 185 

Preparing Fruits for Canning. . 229 

Preserved CranbeiTies 233 

Preserved Cucumbers 233 



278 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Preserved Melons 234 

Pressed Chicken 182 

Pudding a la Francaise 114 

PuffPaste 103-106 

Puffs 121 

Pumpkin Pie Ill 

Q 

Queen Cake 85 

Queen of Puddings 121 

Quick Pudding 121 

R. 

Radankuchen • 87 

Raised Muffins 71 

Raspbeny Acid 239 

Raspberry Ice Cream 144 

Raspberry Vinegar 239 

Raspberry Wine 240 

Receipt for Bronchitis 245 

Rennet Custard 133 

Rhubarb Jelly 230 

Bhubarb Wine 238 

Rice (as food) 256 

Rice Cutlets 175 

Rice, How to Cook 122 

Rice Pancakes 73 

Rice Puddmg 123 

Rice Waffles 72,73 

Rich Stock 149 

Ripe Cucumber Pickles 219 

Roast Beef 161 

Roast Chicken 181 

Koast Goose 184 

Roast Leg of Lamb 175 

Roast Leg of Mutton 174 

Roast Leg of Veal 169 

Roast Pork 176 

Roast Quail 184 

Roasting 31 

Roast Turkey 178 

Rock Cakes 97 

Root Beer 240 

Rough Puff Paste 103 

Roux 32 

Russian Fish 194 

Russian Salad 215 

s. 

Sabyllon 130 

Saddle of Venison • 185 

Salad Dressing 213, 214 

Sally Lunn 71 

Salmon Mayonnaise 216 

Saratoga Potato 203 



PAGE. 

Sauce for Cold Salmon 188 

Sauce for Fish 188 

Sauce for Turkey 189 

Sauce Hollandaise 190 

Sauces for Plum Pudding 129 

Sauerkraut Salad 216 

Sauteing 32 

Savory Gravy 190 

Savory Sauces 187 

Scallopped Eggs 224 

Scalloped Fish 194 

Scalloped Oysters 196 

Scones 72 

Serving Dinner 20 

Setting the table 16 

Shirred Eggs 224 

Short Bread 97 

Short Crust 103 

Shoulder of Lamb 175 

Shoulder of Mutton 57 

Sieve for Purees 49 

Silver Cake 82 

Silver Nitrate (antidote) 265 

Sirloin Roast 63 

Sirloin Steak 53 

Sliced Cucumber 211 

Snow Pudding 127 

Soda (antidote) 265 

Soda and Cream -Tartar Biscuits 70 

Soda Cake 88 

Soufflees 132 

Soufflee of Rice 142 

Soup 149 

Soups, Meats, Poultry and 

Game 147 

Southern Pound (^ake 79 

Spanish Buns 94 

Spiced Currants 220, 234 

Spiced Peaches 220 

Spmach 208 

Sponge Cake 83, 84. 98 

Spring Soup 152 

Squash, Baked 208 

Squash Pie Ill 

Squash Strainer 49 

Steam Pudding 118 

Stewed Apples, for Children. . . 235 

Stewed Cabbage 204 

Stewed Quail 184 

Stewed Tomatoes 206 

Stewed Tongue 169 

Strawberrv Ice Cream 144 

String Beans 209 

Strychnine (antidote) 265 

Stuffed Tomatoes 207 

Suet Pudding 117 

Sugar Ginger Bread 90 

Sugar (adulterations in) 261 



INDEX. 



279 



PAGE. 

Sulpliuric Acid (antidote) 265 

Sunderland Pudding 120 

Summer iSquash 203 

Sweet Breads 172-173 

Sweet Potato 204 

Sweet Potato, Broiled 204 

Swiss Blackberry Wine 241 

Swiss Eggs 225 

Swiss Roll 97 

T. 

Table of Domestic Measures of 

_,Fluids 245 

Table of Weights 76 

Taper Strainer 49 

Tapioca Puddmg 123 

Tartare Sauce 188 

Tea Kettle Strainer 49 

Tea Making 237 

Teas (adulterations) 261 

Tenderloins r.'6 

The Potato 199 

Tipsy Cake 86 

To Bake Fish 193 

To Bal« Apples for Children. . . 236 

To Boil Fish 193 

To Broil salt Pork 176 

To Clarify Dripping 244 

To Fry Fish 194 

To Fry Ham 177 

To Fry Liver 174 

To Fry Salt Pork 176 

To Hash Beef 167 

To Keep Eggs fresh 226 

To Make a Hen's Nest 139 

To Make Slip 134 

To Make Tough Meat Tender. . 169 
To Make Tough Steak Tender. . 166 

Tomato Butter 244 

Tomato Catsup 191 

Tomato Mayonnaise 214 

Tomato Omelette 226 

Tomato Salad 214 

Tomato Sauce 190 

Tomato Soup 152, 156 

Tomatoes, Baked 206 

Tomatoes, To Broil 207 

Tomatoes, To Stew 206 

Tomatoes Stuffed 207 



PAQE. 

To Preserve Meat or Fresh Fish. 244 

To Stew Cabbage 204 

To Stuff and Roast a Calf's 

Liver 172 

Trussing Needle 50 

Turkey Soup 154 

Turnips 207 

Turnips a la Creme 208 

V. 

Ygr^j 55 

Veal (as food). . .. '. ........... 251 

Veal Croquettes 171 

Veal Cutlets 170 

Veal Loaf 172 

Veal Olives 172 

Vegetable Basket 50 

Vegetable Cuiters 50 

Vegetable Foods 254 

Vegetable Soup 156 

Vegetables 59, 199 

Venison Steak 185 

Vermicelli Soup , 153 

Viennoise Pudding 114 

Vinegar (adulterations) 261 

w. 

Waffles 72 

Washington Cake 88 

Water (adulterations) 262 

Wedding Cake 77 

Wheat (as food) 255 

White Cake 82 

White Fricassee of Chicken 181 

White Mountain Cake 86 

White Sauce for Game 189 

White Sponge Cake 83 

Winter Squash 208 

Y. 

Yeast 65 

Yeast Bread 66-67 

Yellow Cake 89 

Yorkshire Pudding 164 

z. 

Zmc (antidote) 265 



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